Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

As oil changes always use some fractional quart amount of oil, I typically pour what would have been the remaining amount of oil into the engine once it has entered the "drip stage" of the drain. It seems to clear out that last remaining bit of old oil.

The fumoto ball valve is a great piece to have on as well....hook up the hose and open the valve.

I haven't changed the oil yet nor have I started researching, but the fumoto valve fits under the drain plug cover plate?

*EDIT* Nevermind. I just looked it up. It appears to fit.
 
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I think this is a doable if you have the car on the lift and have four people with four impact guns. Good luck taking those over-torqued lug nuts off later.

Yeah, that one takes awhile with one person and two trolley jacks doing a cross rotation. Though I did take the time to re-mold the front mud flaps to eliminate some rubbing while I was at it.
 
So I've read about a couple people having the dealer strip out the skid plate bolts. My first oil change is coming up soon and I gotta wonder if I should just do it myself. Have you guys had issues with letting the dealer do your first two oil changes?

Edit: Reading thru this thread and it seems hit or miss, but there have been issues. Probably better off just doing it myself. Sad you can't trust the dealers to do this.
 
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So I've read about a couple people having the dealer strip out the skid plate bolts. My first oil change is coming up soon and I gotta wonder if I should just do it myself. Have you guys had issues with letting the dealer do your first two oil changes?

Edit: Reading thru this thread and it seems hit or miss, but there have been issues. Probably better off just doing it myself. Sad you can't trust the dealers to do this.

I posted this info on the forum about this . I last month just did my first oil change . 3K miles on it. did it before my 4K mile trip to warmer regions.

I had no problems at all with doing the oil change. nothing was over torqued no bolts damaged missing etc... oil looked perfect and was not low.

on the filter removal it came out very easy and I put it back as it was installed to the same exact position torqued as it was installed .. there is a mark to set this properly .. the oil filter cap is sealed by the O ring not the tightness of the filter plastic cap.

I then drove it around for a day then re checked for any leaks ,then put a small amount of anti seize on the bolts put pans on. where you live there is no rust so probably no lube on those bolts is required .. up here it gets rusty down low on vehicles.

then I checked all the drive train fluids . all plugs were torqued properly also no leaks. however I found that the rear diff gear oil was bad. was discolored and very dark. so I was ready I had 5 qts of 75-90 wt mobil synthetic gear oil and used almost the 3 qts.. fill to bottom of plug..

on inspection of the diff oil the oil had coffee like particles in it, not magnetic looked like paint. the diff plug had a normal amount of metallic sludge...

when I drive it , it seemed to roll better .

now at 2K miles after all this work the MPG increased to 19-20 MPG. I gained about 1.5 MPG on this work..

my guess is the dealerships DO NOT replace the gaskets so they over torque plugs. then on the pan bolts use power tool to put the pan cover bolts on and cross thread them ..

if you do it watch out for those black widow spiders..
 
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I have a 2013 Tacoma and the oil filter is right up top in the engine bay....no need to take off an entire panel just to get to the filter. I was a little surprised they would put it down there in the T4R.
your old Tacoma had the single VVT-i motor. the 4Runner has dual VVT-i, and adding it to the motor necessitated somewhat of a redesign of its layout.
 
I posted this info on the forum about this . I last month just did my first oil change . 3K miles on it. did it before my 4K mile trip to warmer regions.

I had no problems at all with doing the oil change. nothing was over torqued no bolts damaged missing etc... oil looked perfect and was not low.

on the filter removal it came out very easy and I put it back as it was installed to the same exact position torqued as it was installed .. there is a mark to set this properly .. the oil filter cap is sealed by the O ring not the tightness of the filter plastic cap.

I then drove it around for a day then re checked for any leaks ,then put a small amount of anti seize on the bolts put pans on. where you live there is no rust so probably no lube on those bolts is required .. up here it gets rusty down low on vehicles.

then I checked all the drive train fluids . all plugs were torqued properly also no leaks. however I found that the rear diff gear oil was bad. was discolored and very dark. so I was ready I had 5 qts of 75-90 wt mobil synthetic gear oil and used almost the 3 qts.. fill to bottom of plug..

on inspection of the diff oil the oil had coffee like particles in it, not magnetic looked like paint. the diff plug had a normal amount of metallic sludge...

when I drive it , it seemed to roll better .

now at 2K miles after all this work the MPG increased to 19-20 MPG. I gained about 1.5 MPG on this work..

my guess is the dealerships DO NOT replace the gaskets so they over torque plugs. then on the pan bolts use power tool to put the pan cover bolts on and cross thread them ..

if you do it watch out for those black widow spiders..

Thanks for the info. You mentioned your rear diff fluid was dark. I'm coming up on 7500 and hadn't really though about changing the rear diff fluid, just the engine oil. Is it common for the diff fluid to need to be changed out so soon?
 
So I've read about a couple people having the dealer strip out the skid plate bolts. My first oil change is coming up soon and I gotta wonder if I should just do it myself. Have you guys had issues with letting the dealer do your first two oil changes?

Edit: Reading thru this thread and it seems hit or miss, but there have been issues. Probably better off just doing it myself. Sad you can't trust the dealers to do this.

If you're going to DIY after the "free" maintenance, go ahead and start out doing it yourself. You could get lucky. But more than likely you'll find something they shortcutted when you do it yourself the first time. And if they overtoruqe the oil filter drain plug, it can be impossible to ever get it out again without damage. Had to replace oil filter assembly on my wife's Highlander due to dealer over tightening before I started doing all our own maintenance again.
 
Thanks for the info. You mentioned your rear diff fluid was dark. I'm coming up on 7500 and hadn't really though about changing the rear diff fluid, just the engine oil. Is it common for the diff fluid to need to be changed out so soon?


the rear diff suggestion is : open the fill plug and check that it is full up to the hole and using a white plastic tyrap/strap or other item that is a light color see how good the gear oil looks. if its a golden brown and full just put the plug back tighten to 30ft lbs .. if its dark then change it or have it changed if you need to .. takes 3 qts....

post back how the diff oil looked .
 
Thanks for the info. You mentioned your rear diff fluid was dark. I'm coming up on 7500 and hadn't really though about changing the rear diff fluid, just the engine oil. Is it common for the diff fluid to need to be changed out so soon?

No. And color has really nothing to do with it either.
 
[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION], I undstand that changing diff oil before the maintenance schedule may not be of much benefit, but is there any detriment?

the drive train fluids should be checked for condition and proper level when the vehicle is serviced for the oil changes. if the fluids are not looking good ,,, dark color, smells bad , particles , low very low level and smells burnt time and miles means nothing . oil needs replacing ... this is why we do this type checking .

I do not recommend changing the diff fluids before the Toyota schedule .............................I AM POSTING THAT THIS STUFF REQUIRES CHECKING ................AND IF BAD TAKE ACTION NOW..............
 
[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION], I undstand that changing diff oil before the maintenance schedule may not be of much benefit, but is there any detriment?

Yes, there are some detriments:
1. It is based on your perception, not engineering science. Science trumps perception every time.

2. It uses a finite resource, petroleum, unnecessarily. Both at the front end to obtain and refine it, and at the back end to dispose/recycle/reuse. Each step takes energy, and unnecessary energy use is... unnecessary and has a cost to society and the environment.

3. Each time you do unnecessary maintenance you introduce more possible human error in doing that maintenance (improper fill, improper torque, improper procedure, etc.).

4. It can give you a false sense of security, thinking you are the uber maintainer, whereas you really are the person who does things with no rationale, no science, no rhyme or reason. In short, you think you're god, but you're actually the naked emperor.

Its a free country, but just remember what Forrest Gump said: stupid is as stupid does...

BUT, there is one reason to ignore the Toyota maintenance schedule - it might make you feel good and/or better about yourself.

:focus:
 
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[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION], I undstand that changing diff oil before the maintenance schedule may not be of much benefit, but is there any detriment?

ANY time you break into a closed system, be it diff, engine oil, brake or radiator or power steering you increase the chance of introducing contaminants into the system. This is NOT a Chevy from the 80's. Really. I drove through a flooded area last year. When I got back I checked and then had a tech check my diff for water. All clean. Personally I will change for the first time at around 50K. My oil change every 10K. My transmission at 120K and plugs too. Brakes? Fluid change after three years or so. Coolant? Five years. Power steering about the same. Gets greased every 10K. Brake pads and rotors will go 70K easily. Tires get changed at around 40K or sooner regardless of wear.

The two most important components to maintain on your vehicle are tires and brakes. Those are the two most critical for operation and safety. Never ignore those two and replace long before they wear out.

I know many of you are DYING to work on your 4Runner but the truth is it just doesn't need much in the way of maintenance. Neither does your Honda, Subaru or other Toyota vehicles.

Now if you off road HARD or tow every day then yes, by all means move the schedule up.

My opinion based on my tiny bit of knowledge.
 
ANY time you break into a closed system, be it diff, ""engine oil"", brake or radiator or power steering you increase the chance of introducing contaminants into the system. My opinion based on my tiny bit of knowledge.

so your saying never pull the engine oil dip stick out ? just change the oil when the Toyota manual says to ....

you might contaminate the engine oil ... Now I understand ...
 
so your saying never pull the engine oil dip stick out ? just change the oil when the Toyota manual says to ....

you might contaminate the engine oil ... Now I understand ...

[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]

Maybe we should just lock this thread. It's getting pretty damn stupid around here...:deadhorse:
 
I can do that or if you want I can go in and clean out posts that are off topic. Your choice.

I leave it in your capable hands- Only reason I posted this was to help people with the process. I feel like that is getting lost in the mix...
 
I leave it in your capable hands- Only reason I posted this was to help people with the process. I feel like that is getting lost in the mix...

No problem. I'll go back several pages tonight and delete some way off topic posts. Have a great weekend and take care of the girls!
 

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