Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

I use oak wood ramps 6 inch lift . I fabricated these also work great on my other vehicles no jacking .. driveway has a slope so when on ramps vehicles are almost perfectly level..

I did purchase the expensive filter socket Motiv works great very solid grip.... vehicle never at dealership so the torque is 10 ft lbs on the filter cap ... same torque when I removed it on first oil change . O ring does the sealing not the torque..

6 inch lift then I also do the drive shaft greasing and inspect the complete under carriage.. do the rust prevention also esp frame welds.

no jack or jack stands in my way ..
drop all the covers wash them do leak inspections..or ???
 
Just wanted to say thanks for a great write up. Made the first in-house oil change go much easier! Just need to come up with an under the truck beer holder mod now...
 
Just did my first oil change on mine last weekend. Went just as Antman had mentioned except for one glitch.

My Runner had been back to the purchasing dealer for the free 2 years service as well as a third on my nickel. One of those times some genius broke one of the skid pan bolts. Nobody bothered to tell me and I found out while taking my pan off.

Oh yeah I didn't use a torque wrench to take the drain plug off but if I had to use a 12 point wrench, both hands AND a foot on the front tire just to loosen my drain plug, I think that was a little excessive.

My Runner will only go to the dealer for real problems. Regular maintenance will now be handled by ME.
 
Yeap. I’ve had to drill through and weld a nut to the factory nuts on the skid plate mount due to dealer stripping them.


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Mechanics (techs) who use impact air wrenches at any stage of oil change should be demoted to shop sweeping duties...
 
First oil change done since it's been mine! Great write up that made it easy and painless. Going to order a new oil filter canister though since they apparently used lock tight to seal the drain bolt at the stealership.. as well as some replacement bolts for the skid plate that were stripped.

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Skid plate nuts over-tightened

Yeap. I’ve had to drill through and weld a nut to the factory nuts on the skid plate mount due to dealer stripping them.

I had to cut my skid plate off to get at the nuts. I was installing the ICON Stage 7 tubular lift kit and needed to get the skid plate off so I could work. I was going to replace the OEM skid plate with the RCI skids anyway. Once I got the install done I chiseled the nuts on one side to turn them. Once I got it to turn the came off by turning with my fingers. Makes me think the Toyota Mechanic used his impact wrench to re-install the skid plate after my first two "free" oil changes.

I'll be doing my own oil change from now on. Thanks to Antman for this write up. Also thinking about installing the Baxter adapter so I can have a remote filter. Parts linked in this thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/251249-changing-metal-oil-canister.html
 
Mechanics (techs) who use impact air wrenches at any stage of oil change should be demoted to shop sweeping duties...

no the oil jockeys, are not mechanics .. they are FLOOR SWEEPERS...

SORRY TO SEE ALL THESE BAD POSTS OF TOYOTA DEALERSHIP DAMAGES DONE ... NOT GOOD !

if they did not over torque or break anything probably did not change the oil.

one vehicle I owned 380K miles I did oil changes , every 4K miles drain plug OEM original not stripped , I wonder why ??? LOL.....

never dealership ...
 
Filter has top and bottom

Antman,
Thanks again for a great write up and photos. I just read your tutorial again so I could decide whether I want the remote filter.

I gotta ask you, how come your skid plate is smooth unscratched and not dented in? Mine was thrashed after just a few offroad trips. Are you only driving your SR5 to the boat ramp?

And one correction: the internal filter element does have a top and bottom. They just both look the same. :jump:

:nicethread:
 
DesertCanyons;2923083 And one correction: the internal filter element does have a top and bottom. They just both look the same. :[/QUOTE said:
the filter element has no specific top /bottom .... goes in done ..

instructions on box of filter no top / bottom ..

if your pans are banged up you need a 6 inch lift ... LOL..
 
the filter element has no specific top /bottom .... goes in done ..

instructions on box of filter no top / bottom ..

if your pans are banged up you need a 6 inch lift ... LOL..

Oh, my skids were so mangled after year 3 at The CoveI hammered them back into shape with a sledgehammer...
 
Going to do my own change next time. Is the after marker drain with tubing necessary or does the included plastic drain plug work adequately?
 
Going to do my own change next time. Is the after marker drain with tubing necessary or does the included plastic drain plug work adequately?

Included works fine. Just put it on with gusto. I typically don’t get a drop of oil on the floor. Actually very clean once you’re used to it.
 
Antman,

I gotta say, thank you for this tutorial. I took advantage of a nice day today and changed the oil in my 2016 TRDP. Good times!:thumb:
 
Going to do my own change next time. Is the after marker drain with tubing necessary or does the included plastic drain plug work adequately?

Included works fine. Just put it on with gusto. I typically don’t get a drop of oil on the floor. Actually very clean once you’re used to it.
the OE plastic drain widget is pretty clever, and works great when used correctly. the trick is to insert it with confidence; apply even pressure to both sides of the plastic flange. as stated above, done properly, you won't spill a drop.
 
Going to do my own change next time. Is the after marker drain with tubing necessary or does the included plastic drain plug work adequately?

I drop all the pans ALL.. drain oil pan , and I only unscrew the filter cap till it leaks when it stops leaking I unscrew it .. I do not mess with the cap drain at all..

NO mess at all .. only 10ft lbs on the filter cap .. put some oil on O ring ... O ring seals NOT the torque...

oil pan plug 15 ft LBS...

do a complete inspection for any leaks/defects/rust etc.. check the CV shafts for excessive play and boots wear torn etc..

check the diff and transfer case oil ..
 
Thanks!!!

Thanks Antman!

I just finished my first oil change @ 7,500 mi using your impeccable documentation in about a 1.5 hours with no prior mechanical experience at all (except for changing burnt out brake lights LOL). I chose to do it at 7,500 because it was pretty cold this winter, and unfortunately my commute to the train station is just under 2 miles so the oil usually doesn't get up to operating temp.

Was a little nervous because I was racing daylight, but I was quite happy overall with how it went. I drive a 2017 SR5 Premium. A few notes/observations of my experience, in case it is of use to anyone:

1. My vehicle had 5 bolts and 1 plastic pin for the plastic cover. The plastic pin was the hardest part for me. I used a screwdriver to pop the gray part out - you should make sure the gray part is fully out (I want to say like 3/8 - 1/2 inch) before trying to pull out the dark ring. Also, on both sides of the plastic pin on the cover itself there is like an inch long skinny protrusion. It was useful to use that taller ridge as a fulcrum for better leverage when using my screwdriver to pop out the middle piece.

2. I'm 5'9 and 185 pounds - I was able to fit underneath the truck without the use of a ramp, or jacks + stands.

3. I used the Motivx Filter Wrench, and it worked great. It has one slot on one side, and three slots on the other. The Filter Housing has corresponding slots, so make sure they matched. I was facing the side with the metal indexing tab and wouldn't have caught this if I didn't check the other (passenger) side of the housing to notice the discrepancy, because the tool fits (sorta) in both orientations.

4. I picked up the 16qt Flotools Oil Drain Pan from Walmart, and it worked great. It is pretty tall so any spattering/splashing was contained to within the pan. There was zero oil on the cardboard I laid out underneath it.

5. I picked up oil filter kits from Toyota - they quoted me $5.50 per filter and $1.15 per drain plug washer (which are blue on both sides). When I got there I bought five and they dropped it down to $5 per filter and gave me the washers for free.

6. Having a headlamp was money. I like seeing where I work, and it helped to peer inside the upper half of the oil filter housing when I was cleaning it.

7. The dipstick is impossible to read. I could see the oil fine, it was just smeared/spotty...it reads like I put in 13 quarts of oil. I feel like maybe its rubbing up on the dipstick tube on the way up, but I don't know how to alleviate that.

8. The plastic nipple that you use to drain the oil filter housing requires a lot more force than I expected to get it up and seated.

9. Is there a torque spec for the bolts on the plastic cover? I just kinda tightened until snug.

ANYWAY. Thanks to all the other users on this thread who asked the questions I wouldn't have thought to ask, and pointed out things that definitely saved me some headaches. Antman, let me know if you're ever in NYC and I'll buy you a beer! Love this community!
 
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1. My vehicle had 5 bolts and 1 plastic pin for the plastic cover. The plastic pin was the hardest part for me. I used a screwdriver to pop the gray part out - you should make sure the gray part is fully out (I want to say like 3/8 - 1/2 inch) before trying to pull out the dark ring. Also, on both sides of the plastic pin on the cover itself there is like an inch long skinny protrusion. It was useful to use that taller ridge as a fulcrum for better leverage when using my screwdriver to pop out the middle piece.
This is a push pin, no prying required. Push in hard on the center, and then the center pin will pull right out. Then the outer sleeve portion is free to pull out as well. When you put back in, put the outer sleeve in, then the center pin. Easy peasy.

2. I'm 5'9 and 185 pounds - I was able to fit underneath the truck without the use of a ramp, or jacks + stands.
Sure, but don't discount some ramps if you wanna be able to roll around under there. Definitely forgo the jack/stands for this job.

7. The dipstick is impossible to read. I could see the oil fine, it was just smeared/spotty...it reads like I put in 13 quarts of oil. I feel like maybe its rubbing up on the dipstick tube on the way up, but I don't know how to alleviate that.
Warm up engine and shut off. Take out dipstick. Wait 5 minutes. Put dipstick back in and count to 10 or so. Take out dipstick and look at level. Works every time for me.

8. The plastic nipple that you use to drain the oil filter housing requires a lot more force than I expected to get it up and seated.
Yep, confidence required if you don't wanna make a mess.

9. Is there a torque spec for the bolts on the plastic cover? I just kinda tightened until snug.
71 lb-in, snug is fine too
 
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