Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

I can't see the pics in the first few pages and wanted to see the correct location that the oring should be placed. Can anyone help me with how to view Antmans pics or send me a pic with the oring installed in the correct spot?

Thanks,
Mike

I can still see all the pics in the first few posts. Here's the one of the correct O-ring location on the filter housing (a pic of this should come with the new filter you bought anyway)

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z346/antmanjeff/DSCF1281.jpg~original
 
I've read that you can't change the oil on the ground due to the skid plate. Is there enough space to squeeze in there with the skid plate hanging down?

If I were to make some 2x6 or 2x8 ramps, how high do I need to lift the front end for the skid plate to clear and be removed? Would two 2x8's be enough or would I need three? four?
 
Did my second oil change yesterday. The biggest whip is the oil filter. I managed to let the filter removal tool drop just a bit when turning (have to keep firm pressure upward) and when I got it off it was stuck onto the plastic oil filter housing. Took a a while to figure out how to pry it off. Lesson learned.

Then I managed to spill some oil when trying to pour the 6.6 quarts back into the oil jug. I think I have solved that as I have now installed a Fumoto valve and a jug to put the oil in. Another thing I will do next time is attach the clear hose to the plastic drain tool (same one that you attach to the Fumoto valve) that you push up into the plastic housing to release the oil so that it doesn't get all over my hand.

I roll mine up onto some ramps which probably gives me an additional 8 inches in addition to my 12 I have already. Then access is then easy. I think I probably could do the filter change with the skid plate on but it was easier just to take it off, only 6 bolts on my RCI skid and the aluminum is fairly light. If you have stock height you definitely will need some ramps to drive up onto.

I can see why getting your oil changed by a 3rd party is so problematic. It's the filter. Screw on canisters are almost fool proof whereas the paper ones are not. Add a skid plate and it makes it even more difficult.

I don't have these exact ramps, but very similar.

Ramps
 
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I've read that you can't change the oil on the ground due to the skid plate. Is there enough space to squeeze in there with the skid plate hanging down?

If I were to make some 2x6 or 2x8 ramps, how high do I need to lift the front end for the skid plate to clear and be removed? Would two 2x8's be enough or would I need three? four?

4 bolts hold the skid plate on. Take them off.
 
did my 3rd oil change yesterday, still can't stand the filter, but it isn't as bad as my old IS300 was for the location.

One recommendation that I have is when checking the oil level, run the engine for 2-3 minutes and then pull the dipstick out and let it sit for 15-20 minutes, check after that much time has passed and it gives a more accurate read out for the oil level. If you check after having just ran the engine, you get some oil splash in the dipstick tube and it always reads high.
 
I've read that you can't change the oil on the ground due to the skid plate. Is there enough space to squeeze in there with the skid plate hanging down?

If I were to make some 2x6 or 2x8 ramps, how high do I need to lift the front end for the skid plate to clear and be removed? Would two 2x8's be enough or would I need three? four?

I roll my T4R up on ramps made of two 2x10s. That height gives me enough room to get under the front end while laying on a creeper.
 
WOW! 62 pages on doing an oil change. I think I'll stick with my '03 V8 as long as possible, I LOVE spin-on filters, you can fill them up before installing and remove and replace without disassembling half the undercarriage.

I've read that you can't change the oil on the ground due to the skid plate. Is there enough space to squeeze in there with the skid plate hanging down?

If I were to make some 2x6 or 2x8 ramps, how high do I need to lift the front end for the skid plate to clear and be removed? Would two 2x8's be enough or would I need three? four?

I've got no idea at all why people have so much trouble with these oil changes. 4 bolts hold the skid plate on and once it's off the filter is just right there in front of you. It's designed so you can drain the filter (the new filter comes with the little tool) before you pull it so you don't have oil running down the side of the engine and going everywhere. It installs vertically so you can fill it up before you install it with no fuss and no mess. Yeah, the housing thing is different in that you can't just drive a screwdriver for it instead of using a proper wrench but a wrench is cheap. Then two bolts hold the door over the drain plug. I guess I'd have to do the math but I don't think a skid plate and an access door is quite half the undercarriage.

Only messy thing I ever get is a bit of splashing because the oil is so thin. This can be mitigated by keeping your pan close to the drain - just doing it on the ground kinda takes care of this.

I do mine with the truck just sitting on the ground but I have a couple inches of lift. The little hooks that are supposed to help with reinstallation are super wimpy and bend easily - I might have just bent them out of the way the first time I did it. Maybe that would try to prevent you from dropping it while it's on the ground but they just bend - they're nothing like the big hook present on early generations. They only make the job a little "fiddlier". I should just cut them off next time I have the plate off.
 
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I've read that you can't change the oil on the ground due to the skid plate.
I drove front wheels up on 6x6 ramps. Removed 4 bolts on skid plate which rotated downwards, clipped in by two J hooks in the front. Wiggle it around to remove skid plate. You'll see a 1/4 inch backwards tab on the end of the J hooks. Bend them back a bit and it will be much easier to remove and replace the skid plate without the ramps.
 
Changed the oil myself for the first time today (just the oil - keep reading) and found out the dealership left me a few little surprises (they handled the first two oil changes, only because they were included with my purchase). First, the oil filter housing is so tight I’m going to order a new one before I even try again as I’m sure it’s going to break. Using the correct tool and plenty of leverage the truck was rocking back and forth and the damned thing won’t budge. In fact, the tool deformed and it won’t move.

Also, they somehow managed to snap one of the 10mm bolts for the front plastic cover clear off and just left it like that, and lost one of the other ones. Oh yeah, great work! And they wanted $140 to service it again. lol


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WOW! Over 930 posts on something as simple as changing the oil and filter cartridge. The only other possible discussion that could beat this one is the never ending debate on which oil is the best.

So far as trusting the dealership ( or others) - I am 61 and have been changing my oil and filters since I was 16. So easy, and I don't have to worry about some numb skull screwing the job up when I do it myself.

:rofl:
 
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WOW! Over 930 posts on something as simple as changing the oil and filter cartridge. The only other possible discussion that could beat this one is the never ending debate on which oil is the best.

So far as trusting the dealership ( or others) - I am 61 and have been changing my oil and filters since I was 16. So easy, and I don't have to worry about some numb skull screwing the job up when I do it myself.

:rofl:

YA same deal like you ... I am a bit older .. done oil changes when I was 16.. fathers car/my car back in the 60's.. never had problems when I did all those oil changes.. when I purchased my 1973 impala new.. I had to poke a big screw driver into the cartridge to unscrew it ..

free oil changes it is not good .. quick lube floor sweepers..
I take 1 hour to do the job because I want all the old oil to come out and inspect undercarriage..

if anyone has a problem with the free oil changes post the dealerships name and location ...that will help ..
 
WOW! Over 930 posts on something as simple as changing the oil and filter cartridge. The only other possible discussion that could beat this one is the never ending debate on which oil is the best.



:rofl:

I'll start a thread on which wax is best and it will probably eclipse that
 
Just curious, but are the oil filter kits the same part # for my NEW 2019' TRD OR as they were for my old 2010 SR5 4x4 ?

Thanks !
 
I broke down and bought the RCI skid plate only to make oil changes easier, no rock crawling where I live. Only for easier oil changes!!!
 
Changed the oil last week in my '14 and it went almost perfect.

Managed to snap off one of the two bolts holding the drain plug cover plate - my impact was too much for it I guess.

The filter cap was also a bear to get off. I have the nice cast metal socket adapter and I felt like I was going to snap the plastic cap. It eventually came loose and then the next struggle was getting the socket adapter off of the cap!

After that everything was painless. But they definitely don't make it easy. Going to have to figure out some way to drill out that broken bolt on the cover. One is holding it fine for now but enough vibration is going to wear that out in a hurry.
 
Just posting to soothe my anxiety....

So I've done this over a dozen of times in my 2012. Can almost do it in my sleep now! :)

Just finished one this evening but I was in a bit of a rush. When I put on the housing I couldn't immediately find my smaller torque wrench so I used the larger one right at the bottom of the range to get 18 ft-lbs. However I know this is a bad idea because it's a lot harder to feel the more subtle click that far to the low end and it is less accurate. But I was in a hurry and you know how that goes; "I can make it work".

Anyhow long story short: as I was easing the housing to seat I know I overtightened it before my Mk1 arm realized I was definitely past that 18 ft-lbs point, and I stopped.

Grrr.. I'm an Idiot! :frusty: So I looked at the pin and it seemed the typical cm or two past the cast notch where it usually sits and I quickly backed off the housing 1/8 of a turn. I then went and took the time to find my proper, smaller wrench and finished it off correctly. All seemed fine with re torque but *maybe* (?) it sat a few degrees further rotated. :noidea:

Now, however, my OCD mind is spinning though scenarios and keeping me awake worrying about having stressed the threads (I would assume the plastic ones are more fragile) and otherwise compromised something.

Arghh! The 30-40 ft-lbs or so I had it at for less than a minute probably did nothing significantly serious or permanent but I keep having visions of folded threads, cracked plastic, leaking oil, housing blowing out on a logging road next month.... Help me! I need therapy! :cry2: Having read before, and now reread, all the over torquing horror stories I'm pretty sure there are 10's of thousands of 4Runners out there happily running with filter housing regularly torqued to 80+ ft-lbs or something crazy so I probably have nothing to worry about.

Anyhow I'm mostly writing for psychiatric reasons :crazy: but might just have to buy that metal housing to stop the nightmares...
 
Anyhow I'm mostly writing for psychiatric reasons :crazy: but might just have to buy that metal housing to stop the nightmares...

Dude, you are fine! Do you think the dealer torques the housing to 20, drain cover disc thing to 10 and drain plug to 30? No way!

FWIW, I use my large torque wrench with a step down adapter on all 3 and have never had an issue. My housing tab is at least an inch past the indicator.
 

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