On board air on the cheap

Do you have a check valve on the line from the compressor to the tank? If the compressor starts with the airline pressurized, it will damage the compressor.

That compressor is crap anyway, do yourself a favor and replace it with a Viair 450C.

I started with the MV50 and now run dual Viair 450s. They look the same on the outside, but the internals are completely different. Smittybilt MV50 vs. Viair 400p are they the same compressor? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

I don't, i thought this mv50 had an internal check valve? Should I put one on at the tank/compressor junction?
 
I don't, i thought this mv50 had an internal check valve? Should I put one on at the tank/compressor junction?
I very highly doubt it; I had the same one and it did not. They generally have a thermal shutoff, as they are only designed to fill tires, which won't have a high back pressure.

You definitely need to have one, and at the tank end of the line is where to put it (far away from heat). What type of line are you running from the compressor to the tank? The heat generated by the compressor will quickly degrade anything but a braided steel line.
 
I very highly doubt it; I had the same one and it did not. They generally have a thermal shutoff, as they are only designed to fill tires, which won't have a high back pressure.

You definitely need to have one, and at the tank end of the line is where to put it (far away from heat). What type of line are you running from the compressor to the tank? The heat generated by the compressor will quickly degrade anything but a braided steel line.

I have an industrial rubber line rated to 300 degrees so that should be OK as far as the heat goes. Can I get a check valve at home depot? Could that be the reason my system isnt holding pressure too? I tightened the F out of the fittings and taped them well and dont hear any hissing from them
 
Not sure on the HomeDepot availability, but you can certainly get them on Amazon (where I got mine).

I would not be surprised if the compressor itself is the cause of the leak, which the check valve would cure. Have you sprayed everything down and looked for bubbles?
 
Not sure on the HomeDepot availability, but you can certainly get them on Amazon (where I got mine).

I would not be surprised if the compressor itself is the cause of the leak, which the check valve would cure. Have you sprayed everything down and looked for bubbles?

Me either. The check valve sounds like it will solve the issue, but im going to spray down the tank with soapy water today at 30 PSI or so, should be enough to get bubbles and minimal back pressure. ANy advice on which check valve?

Control Devices Brass Ball Check Valve, 1/4" NPT Male: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I know i'd need a female adapter or something
 
That is the same one I am using, as the visit valves had some negative reviews. So far they work well.

Good, i ordered it last night with 2 mins to spare on prime, should be here monday. Should I refrain from pressure testing the system till I get it or can i spray around looking for leaks? will the back pressure damage the compressor?

Also, pulled the head on the compressor and the head gasket looks good, but i guess it could be leaking from a million other places.
 

I know it is late in the game for this comment on the system you linked to, but did you look at the duty cycle? Duty Cycle: 10% @ 100 PSI this means that if it takes you 1 minute to fill up your tire before moving to the next tire you need to let it sit for 9 minutes. and yes i do understand that it states @100 psi, but it is always better to get at least a 50% duty cycle when talking air compressors for tires, innertubes, mattresses, etc...

ARB has a small compressor that has a mini tank on it that is perfect for airing up after wheeling or filling things and it has a 100% duty cycle. (yeah i know it is spendy, but you can find it cheaper on ebay...)
http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/PDF/compressorTechnicalSpecifications.pdf

ARB On-Board High Performance 12 Volt Twin Air Compressor (CKMTA12)
 
I know it is late in the game for this comment on the system you linked to, but did you look at the duty cycle? Duty Cycle: 10% @ 100 PSI this means that if it takes you 1 minute to fill up your tire before moving to the next tire you need to let it sit for 9 minutes. and yes i do understand that it states @100 psi, but it is always better to get at least a 50% duty cycle when talking air compressors for tires, innertubes, mattresses, etc...

ARB has a small compressor that has a mini tank on it that is perfect for airing up after wheeling or filling things and it has a 100% duty cycle. (yeah i know it is spendy, but you can find it cheaper on ebay...)
http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/PDF/compressorTechnicalSpecifications.pdf

ARB On-Board High Performance 12 Volt Twin Air Compressor (CKMTA12)


Viair makes some other compressors that are rated for 100% duty cycles as well.

Viair 45040 450C Air Compressor Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
Viair makes some other compressors that are rated for 100% duty cycles as well.

I have had 2 ViAir die on me while trying to air up, granted I used mine a lot, I had it in a jeep on 35's and went out often. Also I am right near an ARB depot, so no shipping...

I now carry CO2 because I am frequently filling rally car tires and other inflatable things and it is far easier to grab the tank and go then to worry about power... to each his own.
 
The point is to keep costs low, i think the compressor will work fine. It fills the 1 gal tank in like 2 minutes. :behindsofa:

We'll see how it works when I get my check valve
 
Man how I wish my no longer in use Air compressor from my RAS would be strong enough to air up, but I seriously doubt it would work :noidea:
 
So i couldn't get the compressor to go past 75 PSI long story short i think I f'd it up so i returned it to pep boys today, went online to their store and ordered it for pick up tomorrow since they were out of stock. It's 50 bucks now with a discount code so I actually saved money, well it paid for the check valve etc. I think the compressor may have not liked all the back pressure the first few times I fired it up.
 
Sure.

Can we get a final configuration parts list too?

Yup. I'll update the first post with that and post it here:

Compressor - 50
Tank - 40
1/8-1/4 adapter - 5
Pressure switch - 12
Rubber feet - 3
Bolts and hardware, wire terminals Etc - I already had
Tank port fittings (male and female couplers, tank plugs etc) - 10
Air hose - 5
Regulator (optional) - 10
Relay - 4
Switch - 10
Check valve - 8

I'm sure I'm missing a few things, I remember the cost being higher before. I guess I did save some on the compressor maybe it balanced out.
 

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