On-Board-Air Setup. Quick check?

[gshadow325]

Might want to check my build, link in signature.

Viair pump
Viar tank

less than the cost of ARB compressor.

 

[nevada]

Yea I will likely get an open air chuck as well. With the ARB inflator, it says it has an "Internal Air Shutoff Valve". Even though it is a closed air chuck, won't that shut off valve prevent the compressor from constantly running and prevent the "pop". Or am I completely wrong?

EDIT: Yes it does have an internal pressure switch that regulates it between 135 and 150PSI. Does that mean my closed chuck air inflator will work without a pop?

does the ARB come with the pop off valve? even with a pressure switch, I wouldn't run a compressor system without a pop off safety valve.

I know you said you planned to add an air tank later, but my suggestion to you, is add it initially. it will be easier to get it all tied in up front. and you will be much happier how the system works, AND I believe it will be easier on the pump.

make sure when using tank, that you have a pressure valve as close to the pump as possible. a one way check valve, so the pump piston doesn't have tank pressure against it upon startup.

 

[gshadow325]

ARB is just a compressor IIRC with no safty valve.

You guys can add a 2.5 gallon tank in the front and will be fine.

 

[alia176]

does the ARB come with the pop off valve? even with a pressure switch, I wouldn't run a compressor system without a pop off safety valve.

I know you said you planned to add an air tank later, but my suggestion to you, is add it initially. it will be easier to get it all tied in up front. and you will be much happier how the system works, AND I believe it will be easier on the pump.

make sure when using tank, that you have a pressure valve as close to the pump as possible. a one way check valve, so the pump piston doesn't have tank pressure against it upon startup.

Let's not confuse the OP so I'm going to clarify few things just for S&G. NO 12vdc electric automotive air compressor comes with a popoff valve. Only home compressors do! As stated already, always a good idea to add a popoff vavle (aka pressure relief) when you create a compressed air system that includes a tank. I agree with this.

Secondly, when you say "pressure valve", please elaborate. This can many things to different people. We know the ARB air comp comes with a "pressure switch" that turns on and turns off the air comp.

Thirdly, just because I like to make things complicated, I always add a simple air manifold when creating a OBA system. This allows a bit of flexibility in your system should you decide to expand your system. In my case, I use

this​

manifold that routes air to: front locker, rear locker, front air quick disconnect (QD) coupler, rear QD coupler, a popoff valve, front air 2.5gal air tank, left slider, right slider. Every connections in my system uses these simple push in fittings, along with 1/4" DOT approved air brake hose. BTW, all this is in my 80 series LC not in my 4th gen!!

 

[nevada]

Let's not confuse the OP so I'm going to clarify few things just for S&G. NO 12vdc electric automotive air compressor comes with a popoff valve. Only home compressors do! As stated already, always a good idea to add a popoff vavle (aka pressure relief) when you create a compressed air system that includes a tank. I agree with this.

Secondly, when you say "pressure valve", please elaborate. This can many things to different people. We know the ARB air comp comes with a "pressure switch" that turns on and turns off the air comp.

Thirdly, just because I like to make things complicated, I always add a simple air manifold when creating a OBA system. This allows a bit of flexibility in your system should you decide to expand your system. In my case, I use

this
​

manifold that routes air to: front locker, rear locker, front air quick disconnect (QD) coupler, rear QD coupler, a popoff valve, front air 2.5gal air tank, left slider, right slider. Every connections in my system uses these simple push in fittings, along with 1/4" DOT approved air brake hose. BTW, all this is in my 80 series LC not in my 4th gen!!

I believe I already stated it,

a one way check valve, so the pump piston doesn't have tank pressure against it upon startup.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

this isn't crucial for the system to work, nor is it a safety device. it will however make your pump last much longer, as it relieves the pressure.
often times these little pumps specifically state to turn the pump ON prior to hooking the hose to the tire. this in affect does the same thing as the valve I suggested. it allows to pump to start pushing air, without any initial pressure against the piston. its just a lot easier on the pump on the long term.

 

[Krayziekid]

Let's not confuse the OP so I'm going to clarify few things just for S&G. NO 12vdc electric automotive air compressor comes with a popoff valve. Only home compressors do! As stated already, always a good idea to add a popoff vavle (aka pressure relief) when you create a compressed air system that includes a tank. I agree with this.

Secondly, when you say "pressure valve", please elaborate. This can many things to different people. We know the ARB air comp comes with a "pressure switch" that turns on and turns off the air comp.

Thirdly, just because I like to make things complicated, I always add a simple air manifold when creating a OBA system. This allows a bit of flexibility in your system should you decide to expand your system. In my case, I use

this​

manifold that routes air to: front locker, rear locker, front air quick disconnect (QD) coupler, rear QD coupler, a popoff valve, front air 2.5gal air tank, left slider, right slider. Every connections in my system uses these simple push in fittings, along with 1/4" DOT approved air brake hose. BTW, all this is in my 80 series LC not in my 4th gen!!

I was about to make a long post but this cleared things up pretty nicely. So basically I don't need a pop off vale, but it is a good idea, especially with a tank. I don't think I am going to start with the tank. I know it is recommended, but I just want to try it without the tank for a while (and save some more hurt on my wallet). With that being said, a pop off valve would be nice. The pump up kit comes with a connector that goes in to the compressor itself, as well as a T-fitting. Could I use the T-Fitting and run a quick disconnect off one end for a hose and put a 175PSI pressure switch (like this one) on the other end and be done with it until I add a tank in. Obviously the tank has more holes in it for adding things like this, put for now, would it work?

EDIT: This photo shows exactly what I mean. The bottom part screws in to the compresssor. The top is the quick disconnect for the hose. The little T fitting is where I could put the pressure valve. And then when I want to use the compressor, I attach the hose, turn it on, and then attach the hose to my tires for inflation.

 

[wild_turkey]

Fender Washers

Sounds like you are ready to rock!

One thing you might consider, depending on how your bracket attaches, are a couple of fender/rubber washers to buffer the bracket from the paint on the fender or firewall. I know I scratched mine a decent amount just trying to test fit the CKMA12 single compressor last weekend. They are surprisingly heavy and tough to move into the correct location in such cramped quarters. I can only imagine how much harder the dual will be.

Also remember to hook up the ground to the negative battery terminal. This had me scratching my head for a while trying to figure out why the thing wouldn't turn on.

Hey everyone. So I am in the process of gathering things for my on-board air setup and I was hoping someone could check my thinking before I take the plunge and forget something important. Here is the parts list I am currently looking at:

-ARB Twin Compressor
-80A Circuit Breaker (To go between the compressor and battery)
-4Ga or 6Ga wiring for said circuit breaker

I'm also gonna get the pump up kit too. I already have the air gauge, so that should be the last thing I need. Is there anything major/vital I am forgetting in this setup or anything I need to change? Thanks!

 

[alia176]

Could I use the T-Fitting and run a quick disconnect off one end for a hose and put a 175PSI pressure switch (like this one) on the other end and be done with it until I add a tank in. Obviously the tank has more holes in it for adding things like this, put for now, would it work?

EDIT: This photo shows exactly what I mean. The bottom part screws in to the compresssor. The top is the quick disconnect for the hose. The little T fitting is where I could put the pressure valve. And then when I want to use the compressor, I attach the hose, turn it on, and then attach the hose to my tires for inflation.

The item in your first link is a Pop off valve or a relief valve. Again, you don't need it as you stated already. This is NOT a pressure switch. A pressure switch has two wires coming out of it!

The second link shows what I think might be a pressure regulator. The idea behind it is to bring the pressure down when you're inflating small items like a ball or something. Again, that's just a guess.

 

[Krayziekid]

The item in your first link is a Pop off valve or a relief valve. Again, you don't need it as you stated already. This is NOT a pressure switch. A pressure switch has two wires coming out of it!

The second link shows what I think might be a pressure regulator. The idea behind it is to bring the pressure down when you're inflating small items like a ball or something. Again, that's just a guess.

Ok, so then with the pump up kit and stuff like that, I should be fine with the internal pressure switch, and I don't really need a safety pop valve?

 

[Krayziekid]

Sounds like you are ready to rock!

One thing you might consider, depending on how your bracket attaches, are a couple of fender/rubber washers to buffer the bracket from the paint on the fender or firewall. I know I scratched mine a decent amount just trying to test fit the CKMA12 single compressor last weekend. They are surprisingly heavy and tough to move into the correct location in such cramped quarters. I can only imagine how much harder the dual will be.

Also remember to hook up the ground to the negative battery terminal. This had me scratching my head for a while trying to figure out why the thing wouldn't turn on.

Yea I was thinking of adding some small rubber washers to the compressor mount to reduce vibrations, but I didn't consider any for the screws on the fender and stuff. Thanks!

 

[alia176]

Ok, so then with the pump up kit and stuff like that, I should be fine with the internal pressure switch, and I don't really need a safety pop valve?

You got it!!

 

[Krayziekid]

You got it!!

Awesome. Thanks for all of your help!

 

[Land Shark 1971]

Having some issue with posting pics. I will figure it out though. IN the meantime...

My ARB twin compressor is wired straight off the battery with the ARB included 40amp fuses. The wiring harness that was included was just long enough to reach the opposite corner of the engine bay. I routed it down the DS then along the fire wall to the corner. I chose to use an open air chuck. Once I connect my hose to the chuck and turn on the ARB it runs for a couple of seconds then once the hose is filled it shuts off until I connect the hose to something to fill with air (like a tire). It regulates itself.

I installed my switch for it via my fuse panel. Meaning I ran both wires the one for the control and the illumination light on the switch direct. I chose to do this so in the event that I wanted to run the compressor without having the truck running I could. I fused all lines appropriately.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[Land Shark 1971]

 

[Land Shark 1971]

let me know if you can access my pics?

 

[Land Shark 1971]

 

[Krayziekid]

Having some issue with posting pics. I will figure it out though. IN the meantime...

My ARB twin compressor is wired straight off the battery with the ARB included 40amp fuses. The wiring harness that was included was just long enough to reach the opposite corner of the engine bay. I routed it down the DS then along the fire wall to the corner. I chose to use an open air chuck. Once I connect my hose to the chuck and turn on the ARB it runs for a couple of seconds then once the hose is filled it shuts off until I connect the hose to something to fill with air (like a tire). It regulates itself.

I installed my switch for it via my fuse panel. Meaning I ran both wires the one for the control and the illumination light on the switch direct. I chose to do this so in the event that I wanted to run the compressor without having the truck running I could. I fused all lines appropriately.

Hope this is helpful.

That was very helpful. And the pictures are great too. I am planning on doing the same exact thing. Opposite corner of the engine bay, so I'm glad the wiring harness is long enough. And good to hear that it self regulates like that! As for the switch illumination and stuff, did you take the power and ground from a nearby factory switch? If so, how? T-taps?

 

[wild_turkey]

Illumination

I hooked up the illumination for my Air On Board (AOB) switches via the factory wiper heater switch. Factory green to switch illumination positive (Blue on AOB switch), factory gray to switch illumination ground (Black on AOB switch).

Since I moved the heater wiper switch to the right of the steering column anyway, I spliced into the wiring harness extension I made from the unused ARB switch harness.

That was very helpful. And the pictures are great too. I am planning on doing the same exact thing. Opposite corner of the engine bay, so I'm glad the wiring harness is long enough. And good to hear that it self regulates like that! As for the switch illumination and stuff, did you take the power and ground from a nearby factory switch? If so, how? T-taps?

 

[Land Shark 1971]

That was very helpful. And the pictures are great too. I am planning on doing the same exact thing. Opposite corner of the engine bay, so I'm glad the wiring harness is long enough. And good to hear that it self regulates like that! As for the switch illumination and stuff, did you take the power and ground from a nearby factory switch? If so, how? T-taps?

I did not use existing factory stuff. I chose to use a circuit from my Blue Sea fuse block and run straight from there. Not that I would want to run it with the truck off for long but I do have the option if I want. Quick pump up of a soccer, football, basketball, etc kinda stuff.

 

[Krayziekid]

I did not use existing factory stuff. I chose to use a circuit from my Blue Sea fuse block and run straight from there. Not that I would want to run it with the truck off for long but I do have the option if I want. Quick pump up of a soccer, football, basketball, etc kinda stuff.

My question revolved more around the illumination on the switches as opposed to the compressor itself. I am going to be running it so that it only works when the car is on, but I appreciate your insight anyway!