Ordered new engine today

[red-runner]

My engine broke last Friday. Couple mechanics listened to it, and both recommended a swap or rebuild. Decided to take a chance on a rebuilt engine from here. Ordered the engine today. Should be here in a couple weeks. I've got great help on the work from a Toyota/Lexus mechanic. I'm looking forward to a mostly new truck when we're done.

Anyone else have experience with engines from toyotatruckengines.com? I've read reviews both good and bad. Obviously hoping for the best.

 

[vipergrhd]

Stop!

I hope you haven't paid yet,i think you should reconsider.check out Raptor engines out of Oregon ( i just bought my 3.4l from them) and Yotashop.com engines from Washington.

 

[red-runner]

Well, it's probably too late, but why do you say this? I suppose I could cancel the order.

 

[vipergrhd]

Teaser pic

Here is a few pic when i installed my engine.

 

[vipergrhd]

Pic

One more.

 

[red-runner]

Man, that looks awesome.

Any reason why I shouldn't expect toyotatruckengines.com to work out though? Prices seem comparable. The raptor engine warranty looks better...

 

[BrianSD_42]

Pretty paint isn't a reason.

Why should he buy from them, what's the point?

 

[BrianSD_42]

I just can't believe you paid that much for a engine that is either high milage and rebuilt (meaning old) or low mileage and rebuilt (meaning it failed young which is a bad sign).

Good condition 100k mile engines on these trucks require no rebuild and rarely fail. The ones that do are probably bad news.

And you can buy a legit (fully functional and original) < 100k mile engine from a minor wrech for $1200 or less.

What I've read on the subject is that a rebuild will never (usually) match the original quality and lifespan of original parts. The way I read this is that since all rebuilds pretty much use non Toyota parts, including the one you bought I'm sure, the quality just isn't the same.

I wish you the best of luck but I'm pretty skeptical.

 

[BasinRunner]

Yotashops pretty pricey, but raptor has good prices. What all did yours come with?valve covers already painted because I dig it.

 

[vipergrhd]

The Good and Bad

I did quite a bit of research before handing out my money,there were a few things that just bothered me with your current builder (Toyotatruckengines)reviews on-line.The 2 that i recommended had almost no negative reviews and they answered all my question in a timely manner the reason why i went with Raptor is the warranty and a bit cheaper my first bet was Yota shop.

 

[vipergrhd]

Good point

I just can't believe you paid that much for a engine that is either high milage and rebuilt (meaning old) or low mileage and rebuilt (meaning it failed young which is a bad sign).

Good condition 100k mile engines on these trucks require no rebuild and rarely fail. The ones that do are probably bad news.

And you can buy a legit (fully functional and original) < 100k mile engine from a minor wrech for $1200 or less.

What I've read on the subject is that a rebuild will never (usually) match the original quality and lifespan of original parts. The way I read this is that since all rebuilds pretty much use non Toyota parts, including the one you bought I'm sure, the quality just isn't the same.

I wish you the best of luck but I'm pretty skeptical.

Very good point Brian,i bought a 4Runner for the wife to drive and the current engine had 245k with a blown head gasket. I was really planning on rebuilding the old engine with Toyota parts but after adding up all the machine work and parts it's almost 4k not including labor to install it.I was looking for ever for a decent used 3.4l but most of them had 150k or more and after doing the math it was a close call so i decided to buy someone else's rebuild.I replaced all the hoses involved in the engine and even got a new radiator,i broke the heater control valve while swapping out the hoses and that added to the cost.Not including the labor i was into it about $3200 when i got her back on the road.


The engine was a long block i had to re-use the VC and oil pan,i cleaned and painted the rest of it to give it a new look.

 

[red-runner]

Mechanics did say that if we could find a <100k wreck, we'd probably be better off, but it could take a LOT longer to get back on the road (find a good engine, buy, pull, refresh, swap -- and pay for labor where applicable).

I've got things I want to do with this truck, and it does no good sitting in my garage waiting for the perfect engine. Keep in mind that my mechanic (one of the most reputable Toyota shops in SD) gave the original engine an emphatic thumbs up, and it still broke. ...stuff breaks, life is short, and perfection is unattainable, so I took a chance.

[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] - I guess I'm skeptical too, and obviously hoping for the best.

If there is a specific reason I should go with a different rebuild, I'm all ears. Seriously. I'm not eager to throw money away unnecessarily, but I also want my rig back on the trail pretty quickly, and I don't have a lot of time to spend pulling and refreshing a donor (nor do I have any space for a donor)...

 

[vipergrhd]

I say go with your gut instinct Red,it rarely fails.Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[KidVermicious]

I hope you haven't paid yet,i think you should reconsider.check out Raptor engines out of Oregon ( i just bought my 3.4l from them) and Yotashop.com engines from Washington.

Do not, under any circumstances, do any more business with Raptor Engines. They are the same outfit as CHS Machine... google CHS Machine and the second hit is the BBB page that gives CHS an "F". Spread the word, that outfit is bad news.

 

[02SE]

What I've read on the subject is that a rebuild will never (usually) match the original quality and lifespan of original parts. The way I read this is that since all rebuilds pretty much use non Toyota parts, including the one you bought I'm sure, the quality just isn't the same.

Well, there's no question that there are a lot of hacks out there "assembling" engines, that really have no business doing so. There are also cheap parts available made from substandard materials.

The OEM parts are good for the intended purpose. Cast crankshaft, pistons, and rods. Head bolts instead of studs. Tolerances that could be more precise, etc. All of that is fine for the stock or mildly modded engine.

There are higher than OEM quality parts available. For a price.

Forged cranks, and pistons, chromoly rods, head studs, etc. all made from high quality materials are available. Of course it all needs to be assembled by someone that has the expertise and tools to do it properly.

The reality is not many people want to spend the money to build an engine to that level. Especially for a vehicle that in it's newest iteration is now 12 years old.

Bottom line: Better than OEM quality is available, but for most applications it's not worth the added expense.

 

[kolelt]

I got a jdm motor with 60k for 1500$ flat.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I got a jdm motor with 60k for 1500$ flat.

Just curious how anyone who buys a JDM engine is able to verify the mileage.

 

[BasinRunner]

Well I think that's the trick with JDM motors, all you know is that its not more than 60k, but no idea as to what it was exactly.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Well I think that's the trick with JDM motors, all you know is that its not more than 60k, but no idea as to what it was exactly.

How do you know it's not more than 60K? Cars can stay on the road longer than 60K miles in Japan. (contrary to popular belief) They just pay a tax to do so. They can also export the vehicle elsewhere where it can continue to be ran. A friend of mine bought one two years ago. When he went to the warehouse some of the engines were so sludged up that it would be damn near impossible for them to only have 60K on them. But of course they were advertised that way.

 

[Nelsonmd]

How do you know it's not more than 60K? Cars can stay on the road longer than 60K miles in Japan. (contrary to popular belief) They just pay a tax to do so. They can also export the vehicle elsewhere where it can continue to be ran. A friend of mine bought one two years ago. When he went to the warehouse some of the engines were so sludged up that it would be damn near impossible for them to only have 60K on them. But of course they were advertised that way.

Oh, I have seen engines sludged up after only 30-50k (not personally, just on the internets), it happens when they just never change the oil and just add more when the light comes on.

If that thing has a 3-5 year warranty, then hopefully he can find any latent problems within that time. I'd be more worried with only a 1 year or less warranty.