Adventure Copan
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I'm hoping over the next few weeks. I may just mount it to get it out of the way and hook it up to the air box later. So much to do and so little time. 
Our '87 4R SR5 Honduras Coffee/Missions Rig Build...
- Thread starter Adventure Copan
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Adventure Copan
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Gonna work good. Still need to internal plumbing, but one thing at a time. Just need to figure out what wires I cut on accident and fix them!
Adventure Copan
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Made a few upgrades and a spacer plate as the spacing was off a bit.
Adventure Copan
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NOT MY PICTURE... This is what it's suppose to look like under the hood when I'm done.
Adventure Copan
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I need some tubing like this...
flyinhawaiian01
New member
[IMG said:
Damn! You got the grey o2 wire! Its shielded, so take your time fixing that one. It probably won't matter too much, as its not an RF-transmitting cable (like a cb or ham radio or anything), but you still want to keep the shielding in-tact and not shorting out with the center conductor.
Do NOT turn the key on without separating the center conductor from the outer shield! That would short the o2's section of the ecu out, and who knows whether that will damage the ecu!
Adventure Copan
New member
Well I already started it, but I'm pretty sure no wire crossed. The internal wire I can solder, but the exterior I'm not sure what to do since it's like webbing. This SUCKS! Oh well I guess it's another learning experience.
Thank you for the info!
Adventure Copan
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I have a lead on IH8MUD for the wiring harness on that side so that could be a life saver!
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Don't worry about it too much, I was much more concerned about the shield and center conductor shorting out the ecu!
If you're really worried about that, just take some aluminum tin foil and wrap it around the shield wire, then either heat shrink it or tape it up really well. Just make sure you solder at least part of the braid so that you have continuity for the shield. Here's what I'd do:
1. cut damaged part out completley (cut as little as possible)
2. strip back outer sleeve about 1½" on each side of wire (grey)
3. slide on heatshrink tubing to cover OUTER wire after repaired
4. strip back inner conductor about ¾" inch on each side
5. slide on short piece of heatshrink tubing for center conductor
6. solder center conductor
7. slide heatshrink over that, shrink it down
8. slide braid over heatshrink, try to solder the two back together as much as possible without burning through center heatshrink, (Optional, wrap small piece of tinfoil over it if there's not a lot of coverage)
9. slide longer piece of heatshrink over the whole thing and shrink it down
10. DONE!
I've done this many times with coax cables for ham radios and cb's, it works just fine and still tunes perfectly. If it works for RF cables that pass lots of current through (ham radios normally run about a hundred watts through the coax), the o2 sensor will be perfectly fine. Its just a pain in the butt to repair damaged coaxial cables like that.
Good luck!
If you're really worried about that, just take some aluminum tin foil and wrap it around the shield wire, then either heat shrink it or tape it up really well. Just make sure you solder at least part of the braid so that you have continuity for the shield. Here's what I'd do:
1. cut damaged part out completley (cut as little as possible)
2. strip back outer sleeve about 1½" on each side of wire (grey)
3. slide on heatshrink tubing to cover OUTER wire after repaired
4. strip back inner conductor about ¾" inch on each side
5. slide on short piece of heatshrink tubing for center conductor
6. solder center conductor
7. slide heatshrink over that, shrink it down
8. slide braid over heatshrink, try to solder the two back together as much as possible without burning through center heatshrink, (Optional, wrap small piece of tinfoil over it if there's not a lot of coverage)
9. slide longer piece of heatshrink over the whole thing and shrink it down
10. DONE!
I've done this many times with coax cables for ham radios and cb's, it works just fine and still tunes perfectly. If it works for RF cables that pass lots of current through (ham radios normally run about a hundred watts through the coax), the o2 sensor will be perfectly fine. Its just a pain in the butt to repair damaged coaxial cables like that.
Good luck!
Adventure Copan
New member
Wow man thank you so much for that! Glad to hear advice from someone with experience! I'll get on it in the morning and thanks again!! -Daniel Kent
Adventure Copan
New member
Ok it's fixed and looks like it was a success so far. I used parts from a coaxial cable to scab everything together. I missed a few photos of some of the steps.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Perfect! A little heavy on that solder, but its good to go! :thumb:
Like I said, its not hard to do, its just tedious work to get everything stripped away and twisted where it needs to be. I'm sure it won't ever give you any problems whatsoever!!!
Like I said, its not hard to do, its just tedious work to get everything stripped away and twisted where it needs to be. I'm sure it won't ever give you any problems whatsoever!!!
Adventure Copan
New member
Yeah I'm no solder expert at all! Much better at welding. 
Thanks for the help again! This had me pretty worried.
Thanks for the help again! This had me pretty worried.
Adventure Copan
New member
Ok so I'm hoping to do the sliders soon and I have the design down in my head. However I'm still unsure on how I'm going attach them and I've searched the whole World Wide Web! Jk! But seriously I'd like to have them removable if needed so any ideas?! Thanks!
flyinhawaiian01
New member
I did mine a long time ago on my truck, welded them to the frame, although I guess you could build it to bolt on, but it will be a lot more work to do it correctly.
You'll really need to gusset the frame for every bolt you use, unless you don't expect to really use them to their fullest extent. Here's some photos of when I built mine back in '05:
The stock I used for the sliders. Welded the ends, thinking I'd use them for air tanks for the onboard air compressor. Decided not to do that:
Three brackets per side made so that it disperses the load of a full hit on the sliders:
Measuring off the body of my truck so that its not too far out, but still enough to keep the body from being hit if I slide into a tree or rock. Approximately 1 inch off the body using magnets I had laying around:
Just a photo of the weld joint after I painted it with non-slip paint. Guess I was too lazy to grind them down and make it all pretty:
Finished sliders (wow! I was still IFS up front! LOL!):
Overall, I'm super happy with them! They're still on the truck, and have been through some SERIOUS bashing! And, they also protect against *******s in parking lots too! Had a guy who flung his door open on an old chevy car (don't recall what it was now, maybe a monte carlo or something?). He flung it open so hard that I felt my truck move (I was sitting inside my truck when it happened). He got out, all pissed off looking, looked at his door's edge which was now completely bent 90º where it hit the slider, looked at me as I started to laugh, got in his car and sped away!
Bet he never slammed his door into another car again!
Anyways, I have the dxf files for the sliders I made, used a cnc plasma cutter for all the plates. You could just send them to one of those online cnc shops and they'd be able to cut them all out for you.
You'll really need to gusset the frame for every bolt you use, unless you don't expect to really use them to their fullest extent. Here's some photos of when I built mine back in '05:
The stock I used for the sliders. Welded the ends, thinking I'd use them for air tanks for the onboard air compressor. Decided not to do that:
Three brackets per side made so that it disperses the load of a full hit on the sliders:
Measuring off the body of my truck so that its not too far out, but still enough to keep the body from being hit if I slide into a tree or rock. Approximately 1 inch off the body using magnets I had laying around:
Just a photo of the weld joint after I painted it with non-slip paint. Guess I was too lazy to grind them down and make it all pretty:
Finished sliders (wow! I was still IFS up front! LOL!):
Overall, I'm super happy with them! They're still on the truck, and have been through some SERIOUS bashing! And, they also protect against *******s in parking lots too! Had a guy who flung his door open on an old chevy car (don't recall what it was now, maybe a monte carlo or something?). He flung it open so hard that I felt my truck move (I was sitting inside my truck when it happened). He got out, all pissed off looking, looked at his door's edge which was now completely bent 90º where it hit the slider, looked at me as I started to laugh, got in his car and sped away!
Bet he never slammed his door into another car again!
Anyways, I have the dxf files for the sliders I made, used a cnc plasma cutter for all the plates. You could just send them to one of those online cnc shops and they'd be able to cut them all out for you.
Adventure Copan
New member
Good looking sliders and great car door slamming story!! I think my sliders are gonna be slick when done. I welded the ones on our old 05 4R, but really wanna be able to remove these. Maybe I'll cave...dunno yet. Thanks for the post and pics! May hit you up for those files.
Our old 4R:
Our old 4R:
Adventure Copan
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Out of welding gas, but not before I got the blinkers started!
Adventure Copan
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Not functional yet, but fitted and worked pretty good.
Adventure Copan
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Anyone know if a sunroof cover for a 90 4R will work for an 87?
