Ah got ya. That pic is from the engine still in the truck. I'm kinda scratching my head try to figure out why there would be 2011 wires on it. I purchased the 4runner on 2009. Guess I must have done the plugs and wires when I did the timing belt in 2012 @ 120k.
Overheated due to leaking radiator, getting misfires after installing new radiator
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
Yep, film of oil on the cam lobes.
But this assumes the motor has already been installed in the truck, right? I mean the starter motor bolts into the bell housing, which is still attached to the tranny in the truck.
I think I'm going to swing by Napa this morning and pick up a leak down tester. The Harbor Freight one (also have one of those in town) has terrible reviews.
Very true. Same where I come from (Denmark). So maybe the engine looks the way it does due to short trips and lack of yearly oil changes and does indeed have 60k or less on it? After doing a leak down test, I'll drain the oil, drop the pan, and have a look at the bottom end. Should be interesting.
I didn't check yet, but will do so this morning.
Boroscope should be here early next week.
Appreciate the comments on the shop. It is a mess right now, so let me share some old shots from when it was clean. I think after this 4runner is done, I'll do some spring cleaning.
My 2002 Duramax after it got stuck in the mud and sucked a lot of it in through the K&N intake into the turbo. Fortunately I was able to get it all cleaned out and it runs great to this day.
Wife #2's Grand Vitara that she ran out of oil. It had the 2.5 V6 but I swapped in a 2.7 V6 as that is all I could find. Had to redone a lot of the electrical connectors for the PCM. That was a huge pain. Come to think of it, wife #1 had a Gold GTI that I swapped the engine in as well. I don't recall the root cause, but I don't think it was due to negligence on her part. That was before I had the shop, so I did that one in dad's garage, which is also where I swapped the straight 6 300 for a 351 Windsor in my 1981 Ford F-150 4x4, after it threw a rod during some 4x4 fun.
My C5 when I was swapping the transmission out. It made about about 425 at the wheels, which was not bad for back in the day (16 years ago). Had Halltech intake, heads, very lopey cam, long tube headers and a B&B exhaust. I wrapped it around a cherry tree a few years later which totaled it. Should have left traction control on...
Used the insurance money as a down payment on this guy. V10, 500+ HP and a 8,250 RPM redline. That was one fun ride.
After having kids with wife #3 (2 girls 4 and 5 years old), I sold it and had to make some life style changes. Fortunately there were no kids from my 1st 2 marriages.
I don't know if I'll ever get the shop floor looking that clean again, at least not without another coat of UCoat It.
We now return to our regular scheduled program.
opcorn:
Appreciate the comments on the shop. It is a mess right now, so let me share some old shots from when it was clean. I think after this 4runner is done, I'll do some spring cleaning.
My 2002 Duramax after it got stuck in the mud and sucked a lot of it in through the K&N intake into the turbo. Fortunately I was able to get it all cleaned out and it runs great to this day.
Wife #2's Grand Vitara that she ran out of oil. It had the 2.5 V6 but I swapped in a 2.7 V6 as that is all I could find. Had to redone a lot of the electrical connectors for the PCM. That was a huge pain. Come to think of it, wife #1 had a Gold GTI that I swapped the engine in as well. I don't recall the root cause, but I don't think it was due to negligence on her part. That was before I had the shop, so I did that one in dad's garage, which is also where I swapped the straight 6 300 for a 351 Windsor in my 1981 Ford F-150 4x4, after it threw a rod during some 4x4 fun.
My C5 when I was swapping the transmission out. It made about about 425 at the wheels, which was not bad for back in the day (16 years ago). Had Halltech intake, heads, very lopey cam, long tube headers and a B&B exhaust. I wrapped it around a cherry tree a few years later which totaled it. Should have left traction control on...
Used the insurance money as a down payment on this guy. V10, 500+ HP and a 8,250 RPM redline. That was one fun ride.
After having kids with wife #3 (2 girls 4 and 5 years old), I sold it and had to make some life style changes. Fortunately there were no kids from my 1st 2 marriages.
I don't know if I'll ever get the shop floor looking that clean again, at least not without another coat of UCoat It.
We now return to our regular scheduled program.
opcorn:
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Napa did not have a leak down tester in stock, so I had to go with the Harbor Freight special. It is only able to test at about 10 PSI, so the numbers probably pretty iffy. It is also almost impossible to get it to exactly zero before starting each test. But I did test each cylinder a couple of times, and these represent the average figures I got from each cylinder.
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:
Cylinder 5:
Cylinder 6:
And here are what the plugs looked like. I overlaid the leak down numbers I obtained for reference.
#6 was pretty wet and #2 was moist. Didn't smell like anything, so probably just condensation from sitting.
So less than 20% leak down on all cylinders. Is that decent? Again, take the numbers with a grain of salt given the quality of the Pittsburgh Automotive tool I was using.
I took this pic of the serial number as well. Not sure how to translate that into the year it was made, but assuming the thermostat is original, it would be a 2002.
Guess it's time to drop the oil pan. Will be interesting to see what things looks like down there...
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:
Cylinder 5:
Cylinder 6:
And here are what the plugs looked like. I overlaid the leak down numbers I obtained for reference.
#6 was pretty wet and #2 was moist. Didn't smell like anything, so probably just condensation from sitting.
So less than 20% leak down on all cylinders. Is that decent? Again, take the numbers with a grain of salt given the quality of the Pittsburgh Automotive tool I was using.
I took this pic of the serial number as well. Not sure how to translate that into the year it was made, but assuming the thermostat is original, it would be a 2002.
Guess it's time to drop the oil pan. Will be interesting to see what things looks like down there...
Drained the oil out out the JDM engine. It was dark, but no signs on any coolant contamination. I didn't think they were supposed to ship these to here from the East with oil in them.
Popped off the pan and then turned the engine over. I'm actually pleased with how the bottom end looks, considering how the top looked.
Only the front area had any sludge to speak of.
And the bottom of the pan also didn't look too bad.
Scraped off the sludge and hit the oil pan surface with a razor blade.
Haven't decided if I want to take off the oil pick up tube and pop that splash cover or not.
Here's the JDM throttle body: (I'll be using the one from my old engine as it only had a single throttle cable)
So I decided now would be a good time to work on the engine still in the truck. Got the driver side front wires disconnected along with the lower alternator bolt and adjustment mechanism. (still need to do the alternator wires themselves).
Next I did the 2 lower AC compressor bolts and also undid the brackets holding the trans coolant lines.
Here's a shot from the back passenger side looking forward and up. The passenger side bell housing bolts are visible and look like they won't be too bad to get at.
And a shot at the starter. The passenger motor mounts are also in plain sight. I'll be leaving the starter on the engine until it is out if I can. Need to figure out how to undo that 12V cable going to it through.
Popped off the pan and then turned the engine over. I'm actually pleased with how the bottom end looks, considering how the top looked.
Only the front area had any sludge to speak of.
And the bottom of the pan also didn't look too bad.
Scraped off the sludge and hit the oil pan surface with a razor blade.
Haven't decided if I want to take off the oil pick up tube and pop that splash cover or not.
Here's the JDM throttle body: (I'll be using the one from my old engine as it only had a single throttle cable)
So I decided now would be a good time to work on the engine still in the truck. Got the driver side front wires disconnected along with the lower alternator bolt and adjustment mechanism. (still need to do the alternator wires themselves).
Next I did the 2 lower AC compressor bolts and also undid the brackets holding the trans coolant lines.
Here's a shot from the back passenger side looking forward and up. The passenger side bell housing bolts are visible and look like they won't be too bad to get at.
And a shot at the starter. The passenger motor mounts are also in plain sight. I'll be leaving the starter on the engine until it is out if I can. Need to figure out how to undo that 12V cable going to it through.
JBurt
Senior Member
You could do a blackstone oil test on the oil out of the new engine.
http://m.blackstone-labs.com/
While you've got the engine and starter out it would be a good time to change the starter plunger (and add headers)
http://m.blackstone-labs.com/
While you've got the engine and starter out it would be a good time to change the starter plunger (and add headers)
I might look into having the oil tested. Not a bad idea! And good tip on doing the stater plunger. Not sure about headers. This is the wife's ride, lol.
So the boroscope showed up early. It is just a cheap eBay special with a USB connector, but is does provide some insight.
JDM engine cylinders 1, 3, 5:
JDM engine cylinders 2, 4, 6:
JDM engine intakes 1,2 3:
JDM engine intakes 4, 5, 6:
Old engine cylinders 1, 3, 5:
Old engine cylinders 2, 4, 6:
Old engine intakes 1, 2, 3:
Old engine intakes 4, 5, 6:
Do you guys think all that oil will burn off the JDM engine after some long trips? The old engine with 196k sure looks a lot better as far as the intake valves are concerned.
So the boroscope showed up early. It is just a cheap eBay special with a USB connector, but is does provide some insight.
JDM engine cylinders 1, 3, 5:
JDM engine cylinders 2, 4, 6:
JDM engine intakes 1,2 3:
JDM engine intakes 4, 5, 6:
Old engine cylinders 1, 3, 5:
Old engine cylinders 2, 4, 6:
Old engine intakes 1, 2, 3:
Old engine intakes 4, 5, 6:
Do you guys think all that oil will burn off the JDM engine after some long trips? The old engine with 196k sure looks a lot better as far as the intake valves are concerned.
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reelamin
New member
Who knows how the oil got into the cylinders as it could have been on it's side or moved around after removal causing it. No it does not look so good compared to the engine that was running with 2-3 times the miles. Can't tell if it is oil covered corrosion or carbon build up as it looks loose and rough.... I don't it should not be there. Oil analysis would be great info...that will tell you a lot especially since it is obviously used oil. Any oil in the intake, cylinders, etc....will burn out fast with the motor up to temp. Easily within a 100 miles, unless it is serious build up. Thanks for the info and updates, and I hope it is a good motor.
Got an oil test kit on the way. In the meantime, I'll go ahead and pull out the old engine. One of the upper bell housing bolts would not budge with my 1/2" impact.
I suspect part of the issue was that I was using non impact extensions and a non impact universal joint, so I likely introduced a lot of slop that prevents the impact from doing its job. That same 1/2" impact removed the crank bolt from the JDM engine, so it is pretty stout.
So I stopped by Napa yesterday and picked up a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter so that I could use my 3/4" impact. As luck would have it, my tune up kit and timing belt kits, along with my Amazon order of impact wobble extensions and metric flex impact socket set showed up.
With that setup, bell housing bolt came out instantly.
So the only thing left now is to undo the flex plate bolts and the last couple of bell housing bolts, and the driver side rear motor mount bolt.
I suspect part of the issue was that I was using non impact extensions and a non impact universal joint, so I likely introduced a lot of slop that prevents the impact from doing its job. That same 1/2" impact removed the crank bolt from the JDM engine, so it is pretty stout.
So I stopped by Napa yesterday and picked up a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter so that I could use my 3/4" impact. As luck would have it, my tune up kit and timing belt kits, along with my Amazon order of impact wobble extensions and metric flex impact socket set showed up.
With that setup, bell housing bolt came out instantly.
So the only thing left now is to undo the flex plate bolts and the last couple of bell housing bolts, and the driver side rear motor mount bolt.
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Had some time this morning to work on the 4Runner. Pulled the cover plate off the bell housing so that I could get to the flex plate bolts. What a pain getting those 4 bolts off were with the front axle right there.
The 6 flex plate bolts were pretty easy though. Here's one of them:
Next I put a block under the transmission to keep it from dropping when pulling the engine.
To put the block under, I raised the engine slightly using this bar:
That way I could continue undoing stuff while still using the lift. With everything disconnected and out of the way, it was finally time to pull the engine.
Halfway there. I'll definitely leave the fan off when dropping in the JDM engine. There was basically no clearance leaving it on.
All the way out.
Here they are side by side. Looks like I'll be moving the oil pick up over as well, and the oil cooler and the threaded pipe for the oil filter. Need to pick up new o-rings and what not for those oil pieces.
Empty engine bay. I'm tempted to roll the truck outside and power wash it.
Wire harness and fuel rails off to the side.
The upper a-arm towers don't look all that great and I'm sure the bushings could use replacing with 200k on them.
Driver's side:
Passenger's side:
Should I hit the rusted area with a wire brush and then apply some POR15?
Now would probably also be a good time to do the lower ball joins and other front end bushings, no?
The 6 flex plate bolts were pretty easy though. Here's one of them:
Next I put a block under the transmission to keep it from dropping when pulling the engine.
To put the block under, I raised the engine slightly using this bar:
That way I could continue undoing stuff while still using the lift. With everything disconnected and out of the way, it was finally time to pull the engine.
Halfway there. I'll definitely leave the fan off when dropping in the JDM engine. There was basically no clearance leaving it on.
All the way out.
Here they are side by side. Looks like I'll be moving the oil pick up over as well, and the oil cooler and the threaded pipe for the oil filter. Need to pick up new o-rings and what not for those oil pieces.
Empty engine bay. I'm tempted to roll the truck outside and power wash it.
Wire harness and fuel rails off to the side.
The upper a-arm towers don't look all that great and I'm sure the bushings could use replacing with 200k on them.
Driver's side:
Passenger's side:
Should I hit the rusted area with a wire brush and then apply some POR15?
Now would probably also be a good time to do the lower ball joins and other front end bushings, no?
So I made up a list of parts I need to complete fixing up the JDM engine before dropping it back in the truck as well as other maintenance items I figured I'd take of while I'm at it. Here's what I got so far:
Finding the part numbers for the injector o-rings and oil cooler o-ring and gasket eludes me. Guess I'll just get those from the dealer along with the FIPG sealant.
Anything else I'm missing? (items in green are already here).
As far as vacuum hoses, I guess I'll just get a length of hose with the proper I.D. and cut to size. The ones on the JDM engine are just as bad as the one on the old engine.
Finding the part numbers for the injector o-rings and oil cooler o-ring and gasket eludes me. Guess I'll just get those from the dealer along with the FIPG sealant.
Anything else I'm missing? (items in green are already here).
As far as vacuum hoses, I guess I'll just get a length of hose with the proper I.D. and cut to size. The ones on the JDM engine are just as bad as the one on the old engine.
Fantastic thread! Shows everything needed to do a JDM swap.
Get the O-rings also from the dealer. I will not used any aftermarket gaskets/O-rings.
For the corrosion at the upper A-arm, I'll clean and paint it. Make sure to use a tray under the battery. I have a plastic shoe box lid as the tray and it catches any acid spilled by the battery.
Do you think it is easy to pull the engine out to get the rear crank oil seal than dropping the trans down?
Keep up the good work and we all at T4R enjoy this thread very much!
Get the O-rings also from the dealer. I will not used any aftermarket gaskets/O-rings.
For the corrosion at the upper A-arm, I'll clean and paint it. Make sure to use a tray under the battery. I have a plastic shoe box lid as the tray and it catches any acid spilled by the battery.
Do you think it is easy to pull the engine out to get the rear crank oil seal than dropping the trans down?
Keep up the good work and we all at T4R enjoy this thread very much!
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Spoke to local dealer and they wanted a pretty high mark-up over online, so I just got the part numbers I needed and then placed an order with Toyota of Dallas as they seemed to have best pricing.
So here's my revised list:
That all adds up to about as much as the engine itself, but I'm hoping this will keep the truck going for another 100k at least.
If all I was doing was the rear main seal, I would think dropping the trans would be easier, especially with a lift. That's one thing that was pretty cool on my X5, you can drop the engine and trans as a single unit. The front diff is integral to the oil pan. Never seen that before.
So here's my revised list:
That all adds up to about as much as the engine itself, but I'm hoping this will keep the truck going for another 100k at least.
If all I was doing was the rear main seal, I would think dropping the trans would be easier, especially with a lift. That's one thing that was pretty cool on my X5, you can drop the engine and trans as a single unit. The front diff is integral to the oil pan. Never seen that before.
Had a little time today to work on the JDM engine. 1st I moved the oil filter hollow stud from the old engine to the JDM. Takes a 12mm hex drive.
Next I removed the oil cooler and soaked it in diesel for about an hour. Next I dropped it into a bucket of Evapo-rust. Plan to leave it there for a day or two.
I then attempted to remove the plug for the oil cooler coolant line that goes into the block. It takes a 8mm hex drive, but it was very tight. I did soak it in PB Blaster for 20 minutes or so. When I couldn't break it free with my 1/2" ratchet, I grabbed the 1/2" impact. At first it did not budge, and then it stripped the plug.
Any thoughts on how to proceed? The right size easy out, or?
So here's what the engines look like now on the driver's side:
I then went ahead and cleaned up the exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, valve covers and engine brackets. Here are some of the pieces:
The crossover pipe was nasty on the passenger side inlet where the head gasket was blown:
Fortunately the pressure washer cleared it all out.
I then tried to remove the spark plug tube seals from the valve covers, only to find they were so brittle that the center portion just came apart, leaving the outer section.
I don't really want to mess up the inside edge of the valve cover, but short of jamming a screwdriver down between the valve cover and the seal, I'm don't see how I can extract it.
Next I removed the oil cooler and soaked it in diesel for about an hour. Next I dropped it into a bucket of Evapo-rust. Plan to leave it there for a day or two.
I then attempted to remove the plug for the oil cooler coolant line that goes into the block. It takes a 8mm hex drive, but it was very tight. I did soak it in PB Blaster for 20 minutes or so. When I couldn't break it free with my 1/2" ratchet, I grabbed the 1/2" impact. At first it did not budge, and then it stripped the plug.
Any thoughts on how to proceed? The right size easy out, or?
So here's what the engines look like now on the driver's side:
I then went ahead and cleaned up the exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, valve covers and engine brackets. Here are some of the pieces:
The crossover pipe was nasty on the passenger side inlet where the head gasket was blown:
Fortunately the pressure washer cleared it all out.
I then tried to remove the spark plug tube seals from the valve covers, only to find they were so brittle that the center portion just came apart, leaving the outer section.
I don't really want to mess up the inside edge of the valve cover, but short of jamming a screwdriver down between the valve cover and the seal, I'm don't see how I can extract it.
You know I have been looking for an excuse to get a welder and this might just be it!
Would a small DC stick welder be what you would want for a job like this?
Like something like this perhaps?
POWERARC 200ST - Stick Welders | Everlast Generators
That looks to be stout enough to also handle fixing my tractor implements when they fail.
Would a small DC stick welder be what you would want for a job like this?
Like something like this perhaps?
POWERARC 200ST - Stick Welders | Everlast Generators
That looks to be stout enough to also handle fixing my tractor implements when they fail.
Spent the last few hours reading up on these Everlast units LOL, and it seems that this guy (all digital version came out in 2016) might be the cat's meow:
PowerTIG 185 (DV) - TIG Welders | Everlast Generators
PowerTIG 185 (DV) - TIG Welders | Everlast Generators
