P0015 Camshaft Position "B" Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

[hiflyer767]

2015 4Runner SR5 4x4 w 115000mi, just installed new spark plugs and serpentine belt. I was driving along on the highway in Cruise Control at 90mph from ATL to Tampa when it went into limp mode and the following lights, Check Engine and TRAC OFF came on.
I managed to regain acceleration control when I'd pulled over and turned off the truck, then unplugged the Throttle Body plug and the MAF plug.

The lights cleared out the following morning. A week later, while driving to Kentucky from Naples, it happened again near the border between Georgia and Tennessee.

I repeated the same steps as before and again, the acceleration returned and the Dash Lights went away by the next morning. I'm now back in Chicago and had the OBDII code read.

P0015
Camshaft Position "B"
Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

Anybody able to help???

 

[EddieV4runnin]

Could just be that Oil Control Valve for the exhaust cam variable valve timing is shorting itself out after driving it for an extended period of time. Worst thing is it might need the Camshaft actuator replaced.

 

[08TxRunner]

^^^ That does sound like an OCV to me too. Had the same problem on a 4th Gen.

 

[Wolfman’s Brother]

Anybody able to help???

Have you tried wiring up raptor lights and adding a sick roof rack?

 

[blanchard7684]

sounds like a cam timing solenoid is faulty.

This happened in my old mustang three times with same symptoms and same codes.

 

[Mack1611]

I'm not a mechanic, but I did stay at Holiday Inn Express last night...

What causes the P0015 code?
The variable camshaft timing (VCT) oil control valve (OCV) is stuck in the open position.

The camshaft phaser is stuck in the retarded position due to damage or clogged oil passages.

Oil flow problems to the VCT piston and phaser from incorrect oil viscosity.

The OCV has an open circuit or the ECM has an open circuit.

 

[Hunterlee]

2015 4Runner SR5 4x4 w 115000mi, just installed new spark plugs and serpentine belt. I was driving along on the highway in Cruise Control at 90mph from ATL to Tampa when it went into limp mode and the following lights, Check Engine and TRAC OFF came on.
I managed to regain acceleration control when I'd pulled over and turned off the truck, then unplugged the Throttle Body plug and the MAF plug.

The lights cleared out the following morning. A week later, while driving to Kentucky from Naples, it happened again near the border between Georgia and Tennessee.

I repeated the same steps as before and again, the acceleration returned and the Dash Lights went away by the next morning. I'm now back in Chicago and had the OBDII code read.

P0015
Camshaft Position "B"
Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

Anybody able to help???

hiflyer767 did you get this figured out? I had the exact same issue happen yesterday.

 

[hiflyer767]

Sorry for the LONG delay...haven't been on in a while.

I changed my oil and filter as soon as I got home. Not a problem since. I believe I was over mileage on my oil change by about 1200 miles due to my LONG ASS ROAD TRIP to Naples, FL from Chicago...

 

[hiflyer767]

Have you tried wiring up raptor lights and adding a sick roof rack?

I'd love to. But, my garage is an old Chicago style with a 6' door. It barely squeezes in NOW with the factory roof rails...

 

[Hunterlee]

Sorry for the LONG delay...haven't been on in a while.

I changed my oil and filter as soon as I got home. Not a problem since. I believe I was over mileage on my oil change by about 1200 miles due to my LONG ASS ROAD TRIP to Naples, FL from Chicago...

No worries!

But awesome! I’ll have to give that a shot. I appreciate the feedback.

 

[Jivewalker]

Had same or similar issue about 100k miles ago after an extended OCI.

There are two oil pipes that feed oil to the oil control valve, one on each side of valve cover. At the top of those pipes, there is a bolt that holds it to the OCV. Take that bolt out, it is hollow. On the end of the bolt will be a plastic cased cone shaped filter with a metal screen. It should come out with the bolt, if not use a pick to get it out. Clean it up and reinstall screen, bolt to torque.

Also, pull the cam position sensors on the valve cover and wipe them off, may be some sludge on them.

Check PCV valve or just replace it, its cheap.

Ever since then, I change my oil every 5K.

 

[customtc]

thanks for the info

 

[TFT4RL]

I just had this exact same thing happen to me at only 52k. Took it to the dealer and they asked me when my last oil change was and what kind of oil I use. I usually go about 7500 miles between oil changes and the last one was about 2500 miles ago. I told them I use Pennzoil. They told me that may be the cause that some oils sludge up more than others and the Toyota oil has additives that prevents that. They did change my oil and clean my sensors and it is running smoother than it has in a long time. Could it really be the brand of oil I use?

 

[waypoint]

I told them I use Pennzoil. They told me that may be the cause that some oils sludge up more than others and the Toyota oil has additives that prevents that.

Which Pennzoil version have you been using? At 7500 mile intervals, even their conventional oil shouldn't be building sludge. But if you're running conventional oil at 10K intervals you're going to have sludge in your future.

 

[TFT4RL]

I’ve been using the the platinum synthetic from Walmart. Never had an issue with it before. Seems strange to me. Maybe I’ll switch to Mobil 1 and see what happens. I can’t see paying double for Toyota oil.


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[Jivewalker]

Sludge can be caused by other things as well not just type of oil. Long periods of idling in hot weather is what I think got me. I would make sure your PCV valve is new ($5) and also look at my post above about cleaning the OCV screens. Once I did those things I went to 5k OCI and its cleaned up. I'm at 215k+ miles now.

 

[TFT4RL]

Thank you I will check those things out!


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[MidniteTRD]

I’ve been using the the platinum synthetic from Walmart. Never had an issue with it before.

that's very good oil with a robust additive package, i strongly doubt that's where your problem is. Pennzoil had a PR disaster in the 80's with oil that was formulated wrong and sludged up badly...seems they're still living that episode down even today.

as Jivewalker said, overly extended change intervals for your uses along with poor PCV peformance and other minor factors like extended idling can contribute to oil varnishing in a way that might cause just enough sludge to affect a sensitive part like the oil control valves.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

The OCVs have very tight fitment of the spool valve in the bore; a bit too much varnish can sometimes make them sticky and cause the DTC. Also an intermittently failing/weak coil can contribute to the issue, sometimes you might not notice a drivability issue.

Basically it doesn't have to be sludge in the sense of thick, chunky stuff; as MidniteTRD said, could be just a bit extra varnish on the valve and bore.

It's an issue that pops up every now and then on a lot of stuff.

 

[TFT4RL]

Thanks for all the great info. I was thinking about it and I often do spend my lunch hour in my truck letting it idle. Maybe that caused an issue and had been building up over time. If it happens again I now know what to look for.


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