P0770: Deciding on repair options

[Dieselchessy]

Ouch!!! Sorry to see that.

I think a new one is a good option, but I’m Leary of reman parts, and fully aware most auto owners think cars only need gas and maybe engine oil.

Maybe find a rig with low-ish miles and crash damage and get a tranny from that.

 

[fourfive]

I wouldn't completely be opposed to getting a used one if there was a known maintenance history but since that's not likely and I haven't found any good pick n pull places around me, I'll probably just spend the $$$ on a new reman.

Was thinking, even if I had the time to test the torque converter and confirmed it needed replacing, I can't imagine those metal shavings to be good for the long term health of my transmission?

 

[brillo_76]

I wouldn't completely be opposed to getting a used one if there was a known maintenance history but since that's not likely and I haven't found any good pick n pull places around me, I'll probably just spend the $$$ on a new reman.



Was thinking, even if I had the time to test the torque converter and confirmed it needed replacing, I can't imagine those metal shavings to be good for the long term health of my transmission?

You are right it isnt good. Metal crunks larger then paste metal stuck on the magnets is never a good sign.


The only way you probably get maintenance records would be a owner selling a wrecked one.


So your not convinced it's the torque converter. The FSM gives us a procedure to test it.


I thought you heard noises coming out of the bell housing?

As everything you described on this thread does seem to point a failing TC.


Shreds of metal like what you showed us is bearing failure most likely. It is very hard to pinpoint exactly until its inspected.

However, it's your call how to proceed as what is best for you.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[fourfive]

You are right it isnt good. Metal crunks larger then paste metal stuck on the magnets is never a good sign.

The only way you probably get maintenance records would be a owner selling a wrecked one.

So your not convinced it's the torque converter. The FSM gives us a procedure to test it.

I thought you heard noises coming out of the bell housing?

As everything you described on this thread does seem to point a failing TC.

Shreds of metal like what you showed us is bearing failure most likely. It is very hard to pinpoint exactly until its inspected.

However, it's your call how to proceed as what is best for you.

It's not that I don't think the torque converter is problematic, the point or question I was trying to make was since I have those larger metal shavings, even if I replace the torque converter, wouldn't that still mean the transmission is compromised? If I put a new torque converter in I would obviously clean all those metal chunks off the magnets but would there still be metal pieces floating around the transmission that haven't made their way into the pan that can potentially mess up the transmission in the near future?

If the torque converter went bad & there weren't metal chunks on the magnets it would make more sense to me to replace the torque converter & not the transmission in that situation.

 

[fourfive]

Dropped my transmission on Friday. Took a full day but that also included rebuilding my starter, tire rotation, draining fluids, beer breaks, grilling, etc. My brother in law helped provide an extra set of eyes & hands to guide the transfer case & transmission out. Some minor hang ups were separating the transfer case from the transmission. Once I saw a little separation between the 2, by lifting/lowering the trans jack and wiggling the transfer case side to side, I was able to get a flat head screwdriver in & gently pry them apart. Disconnecting all the electrical connections was the most time consuming and tedious part. The only casualty was breaking the plastic tab on the park neutral position switch connector housing when I was trying to unplug it. The plastic housing can be replaced from Toyota, EDIT 90980-11784. Other issue was trying to figure out how to remove the park neutral switch from the transmission. Still not sure how to remove it. Picked up the new transmission the next day, Saturday. Was going to install it but decided to clean things up, remove some corrosion where the crossmember connects to the frame & do a little painting while everything was out. Will put the new trans in this weekend. I decided to roll the dice and not replace the rear main seal or flexplate.

 

[Bad Luck]

Dropped my transmission on Friday. Took a full day but that also included rebuilding my starter, tire rotation, draining fluids, beer breaks, grilling, etc. My brother in law helped provide an extra set of eyes & hands to guide the transfer case & transmission out. Some minor hang ups were separating the transfer case from the transmission. Once I saw a little separation between the 2, by lifting/lowering the trans jack and wiggling the transfer case side to side, I was able to get a flat head screwdriver in & gently pry them apart. Disconnecting all the electrical connections was the most time consuming and tedious part. The only casualty was breaking the plastic tab on the park neutral position switch connector housing when I was trying to unplug it. The plastic housing can be replaced from Toyota, 90980-11332. Other issue was trying to figure out how to remove the park neutral switch from the transmission. Still not sure how to remove it. Picked up the new transmission the next day, Saturday. Was going to install it but decided to clean things up, remove some corrosion where the crossmember connects to the frame & do a little painting while everything was out. Will put the new trans in this weekend. I decided to roll the dice and not replace the rear main seal or flexplate.

Looks like you made some great progress! I'm glad you were able to figure out another connector. As far as the park/neutral switch you might try prying on both sides with two pry bars after spraying the shaft with some penetrating oil of your choice.

Where did you end up getting the new transmission from? Any plans for the old trans? I'm guessing you'll have to return it for a core.

 

[fourfive]

Looks like you made some great progress! I'm glad you were able to figure out another connector. As far as the park/neutral switch you might try prying on both sides with two pry bars after spraying the shaft with some penetrating oil of your choice.

Where did you end up getting the new transmission from? Any plans for the old trans? I'm guessing you'll have to return it for a core.

Will try using pry bars on the park neutral switch. It's very possible I wasn't pulling on it with enough force. After breaking the connector housing I didn't want to risk breaking anything else. It was a relief to find out the connector housings are available. Just ordered one last night. Hopefully removing the wire terminals from the old connector won't be too much of a struggle.

Got the transmission from a local parts dealer for $2500 after the core. I still have my old one sitting in my garage but will be returning it once I get the new one installed for $. If I have time I'm wanting to pull the torque converter out to confirm if that was the issue. I've briefly looked at the FSM steps but still not quite sure what all I'm supposed to do for testing the runout. Testing the clockwise free spin and counterclockwise lock seems pretty straight forward. Any suggestions on what I can use in place of the SST?

 

[Bad Luck]

Any suggestions on what I can use in place of the SST?

If I'm understanding the test procedure correctly, then I would think you can use a thick ruler or maybe a metal carpenter's square to fit in the two notches to turn it. Or maybe a piece of flat stock? The test procedure looks to me like it wants you to turn the transmission side of the torque converter while you hold the flywheel portion still. You might have to mount the torque converter back to the flywheel to hold it still. I've never had to test one that way so this is all just conjecture on my part.

 

[fourfive]

If I'm understanding the test procedure correctly, then I would think you can use a thick ruler or maybe a metal carpenter's square to fit in the two notches to turn it. Or maybe a piece of flat stock? The test procedure looks to me like it wants you to turn the transmission side of the torque converter while you hold the flywheel portion still. You might have to mount the torque converter back to the flywheel to hold it still. I've never had to test one that way so this is all just conjecture on my part.

I see what you mean about the notches. Creative thinking with the carpenter's square, I've got a couple of those. I'll definitely be able to test step one but don't have a dial indicator or have any experience with one to test runout. Your explanation of turning the transmission side of the torque converter while mounted and the flexplate makes sense though.

 

[jbtvt]

Rebuilt trans for that price? Dial indicator is pretty simple to use but if you're seeing big chunks the problem should be obvious without one. Is there a way to open it up and see if the fins caught on something? Maybe even grinder since you're not reusing.

Would def recommend replacing that rear main while it's out, just a matter of time until it does fail and at 17 years you're already on borrowed. Only takes a few minutes vs another day dropping and reinstalling the trans. I have never dropped a trans and not replaced one.

 

[fourfive]

I'm not sure if I have to return the torque converter with the old trans for the core. If not I would cut it open to have a look. I briefly watched a couple YouTube vids on using a dial indicator, just don't own one yet. Could something inside the transmission have broken apart to cause the metal chunks other then the torque converter? That was the main reason why I was curious about testing the torque converter.

 

[jbtvt]

Lots of moving parts in there. Have a look automatic transmission cutaway - Google Search

As far as odds to which half it's in I couldn't say, haven't messed with my automatics as much as manuals. Though am planning to rebuild a spare I came across for my GS400 at some point to have when I finally blow it up

 

[fourfive]

Update:

New transmission has been running great for the last 500 miles. No pending codes or rattling sounds. All the previous symptoms I was experiencing have resolved. It took exactly 7 quarts to fill up the reman transmission to the hot mark on the dip stick at operating temperature. That included pouring about 1/4 quart (maybe less) of ATF into the torque converter prior to installation.

I spent about 15 minutes trying to test my original torque converter following the FSM steps but think I was doing something wrong because I wasn't able to get the torque converter to do the things the FSM indicated.

Other than the new seals that were already on the new reman transmission from Toyota, I decided to not replace any other seals or the flexplate because they looked like they were in good condition and didn't want to potentially create new issues. I would be just as happy if I did replace them.