p2440, That f'ing pump!!!!!!

[txclimber]

Well. Looks like my 2005 v8 is down. I went to start it and it has a weird air sucking sound, CEL VSC, etc. all lit up, and no power at all.

Throwing the code p2440. I've looked around some and here is what I know:

code means air induction pump valve stuck open

The fix can cost $4000!

This is a known issue with the 4.7 and if it was a tundra or sequoia it would be covered by the extended warranty (10yrs, 150,000 miles)
Toyota Warranties Air Pump System - Reimbursement Available | Tundra Headquarters Blog

The 4runner owners apparently are SOL.

There is the pump and 2 valves and all three are suspect as the codes don't necessarily always match.



Input I'd love to hear:

Has anyone had any luck getting toyota to honor the Tundra/Sequoia warranty?

Has anyone done this fix themselves? This is the route I'll most likely take?

Anyone know of a good thread here or elsewhere to follow? All my searches just turn up other people *****in' like me.

Any known way to just delete this system? I know it's a smog thing, but I live in a county that doesn't test and I don't have $4k laying around right now.

So far the best thing I've found is this: http://freepdfhosting.com/b8a5b18d0f.pdf

Please help by offering up any info you have on this project. Thanks.

 

[progress4m]

I have seeing couple different options to “fix” this in the past… here is what I got after quick Google search:

Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/66938-air-injection-system-2.html

 

[slyfox75]

Have you tried disconnecting battery and seeing if 2440 code comes back?
The stuck open code is the "bad" one as it will put truck in the limp mode.
If you can get the valves to close......then do the AIP delete relay(see other posts or email me) and the valves will never open again. The AIP pump is semi-worthless in my opinion. (no need)

 

[txclimber]

Hmm. The "bad one". Of course it is. Yeah, I read about your delete and it sounds promising if caught before the failure, but I didn't.

Limp mode is on for sure. I cleared code started it up. Ran great for all 5 seconds and then the dash lit up again and back to limp mode. Same code, p2440.

So, am I correct in assuming my pump is good, just one or both of the valves bad?

Which is bank 1?

What parts am I looking at here: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/2005toyota4runnerparts.html

 

[HokieRunner]

Hmm. The "bad one". Of course it is. Yeah, I read about your delete and it sounds promising if caught before the failure, but I didn't.

Limp mode is on for sure. I cleared code started it up. Ran great for all 5 seconds and then the dash lit up again and back to limp mode. Same code, p2440.

So, am I correct in assuming my pump is good, just one or both of the valves bad?

Which is bank 1?

What parts am I looking at here: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/2005toyota4runnerparts.html

First off - sorry to hear you have this problem too.

I ended up doing the bypass with the block off plates and passed VA emissions a week ago no problem. With the cold I've had it throw p2445 codes on me twice but I've reset and they don't trip for another couple weeks. I figure I'll work it out over the next 2 years before next emissions is due. Check out my build for details.

I thought the bypass worked for 2440 codes too. Sorry I can't help much with the parts needed. If you do end up replacing the stuff yourself please take some pics of the process.

Obviously I hope you find a cheap fix. This AIP system is a waste and poorly executed by Toyota.

 

[slyfox75]

I THINK......the AIP delete relay will still prevent it from limp mode......BUT it could possibly cause a fire due to fact valve bank is still open.(probably slim but that is why limp mode goes in affect when OPEN versus Closed(no danger).

I don't have the link handy but in the tundra forum a couple guys made block off plates that close the tube that comes into the valve banks, thus preventing back flow from manifold exhaust(possible source of fire) and then you are safe.
They are hard to get to(I have not done but I did investigate it a year or so ago when I did my AIP delete). That is what I would do! F $4000 that's half what the truck is worth! LOL. I can prolly send you a kit out tomorrow if you let me know in the next couple hours.

 

[slyfox75]

Probably just one valve bad......I'd have to find exploded view of AIP system to see which is which.
I would not trust your 2005 pump.....it's going to fail. They all do. Mine did last year and I drive an 05 as well. I guess I'm saying I wouldn't fix a valve bank and think your going to get "years" more service without issues.....Pump will die sooner than later. I also remember reading that the fins/blades on the fans break over time and can jam in the valve bank to keep it open......might be your case????

 

[txclimber]

Sly, you're probably right about the pump. When I get in there I'm sure there will be bits of plastic broken off.

Now would be a good time to say, I love my 1986 4runner. These modern "improvements" really blow.

Do you, or anybody else, know if I have to remove both the upper and lower intake manifold to get to the dang thing or just the upper?

 

[HokieRunner]

Sly, you're probably right about the pump. When I get in there I'm sure there will be bits of plastic broken off.

Now would be a good time to say, I love my 1986 4runner. These modern "improvements" really blow.

Do you, or anybody else, know if I have to remove both the upper and lower intake manifold to get to the dang thing or just the upper?

I'm fairly certain you just remove the upper. I found this web posting (it's a 'how to' for replacing the knock sensors) but you'll notice the penultimate step is 'remove air pump'.

Intake manifold removal procedure

The bypass could very well work for you as well. Installing the block off plates is fairly straightforward (easiest to install from under the vehicle/through the wheel well). Even with the bypass and block off plates I still get the intermittent P2445 code and associated limp mode. But I just clear it and back in business for a while. After speaking with Paul who does the solid state modules I need to run down a diagnostic checklist but given the cold temps I'm waiting a bit before I start the troubleshooting.

Keep us updated and definitely post pics if you pull the pumps. Looks pretty straight forward...just a pain in the butt for what it is.

 

[txclimber]

Thanks Hokie. Still exploring options. Reading up about the bypass and plates and such. When I finally knock this out, I'll do a full write-up with lots of pics. Hard to believe there's not one here already. This site is such a great resource.

 

[superman3043]

Even with the bypass and block off plates I still get the intermittent P2445 code and associated limp mode. But I just clear it and back in business for a while.

Really?? I've not had any issues with lights or limping since my relay bypass. Strange.

To the OP, the only piece I have to add is, if you're gonna go in and repair the system, order the AC Delco/GM P/N for the pump that is used on the Trail Blazers. Same part and will cost you a 3rd of what the Toyota part costs, per this:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...erride-1.1.pdf

which is the fix I used. The pump portion I'm referring to is at the end. Sorry to hear about your bum luck man. Good luck with it and keep us posted. If you do a full system tear down and repair, it'd be really cool if you documented it for us for future reference.

Maybe these FSM attachments will help.

 

[txclimber]

Superman, great tip on the GM part! Thanks.

 

[WillK]

OP, did you get any warning signs before failure?

 

[txclimber]

yes. but only in retrospect. First start of the morning, a very cold morning, I heard a high pitch squeal. I thought it was just because it was super cold and a belt was whining or something.

Drove 50 miles. Parked for 4 hours. Started back up and heard the vacuum swooshing and had all warning lights and truck was in limp mode.

 

[HokieRunner]

Really?? I've not had any issues with lights or limping since my relay bypass. Strange.

To the OP, the only piece I have to add is, if you're gonna go in and repair the system, order the AC Delco/GM P/N for the pump that is used on the Trail Blazers. Same part and will cost you a 3rd of what the Toyota part costs, per this:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...erride-1.1.pdf

which is the fix I used. The pump portion I'm referring to is at the end. Sorry to hear about your bum luck man. Good luck with it and keep us posted. If you do a full system tear down and repair, it'd be really cool if you documented it for us for future reference.

Maybe these FSM attachments will help.

Those FSM attachments are great! Good call on the GM part too - totally slipped my mind.

I'll try to make this short as not to detract too much from the OP's post but the 'P2445 - pump stuck off' just shows randomly (happened twice now on very COLD days on cold starts). Both times it's popped up after about 20 mins of driving at highway speeds so it doesn't show until the engine is at temp and way past initial startup. In my research I've found some unsubstantiated claims that a water fouled pump can do this intermittently as the ECU will try to run the pump. Speculation is that the ECU does random checks even though it has been told not to run via the bypass. Paul (who makes the bypass modules) has also noted that colder temps sometimes alter the bypass functionality causing the AIP to run by default. He's actively pursuing a fix for these unique cases.

 

[Stono-see-um]

I have seeing couple different options to “fix” this in the past… here is what I got after quick Google search:

Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/66938-air-injection-system-2.html

I see in the "tundra solutions" link, they mention '04 and up model years.

Is this applicable on the '03??
I may look into the module if so..

 

[HokieRunner]

I see in the "tundra solutions" link, they mention '04 and up model years.

Is this applicable on the '03??
I may look into the module if so..

This is only a potential issue with the 2005+ V8 4Runners. So you should be safe.

 

[WillK]

Hmmmm.... On cold start my Runner makes a whooshing sound about 15 seconds after start-up.... I jokingly call it the cold start fart but it's noticeable on every cold start.

 

[HokieRunner]

Hmmmm.... On cold start my Runner makes a whooshing sound about 15 seconds after start-up.... I jokingly call it the cold start fart but it's noticeable on every cold start.

Mine started like that. Then threw a code after some time. Might be worth a proactive fix before the pumps fail or the valves go bad.

 

[RCs4Runner]

I see in the "tundra solutions" link, they mention '04 and up model years.

Is this applicable on the '03??
I may look into the module if so..

You don't have a VVT-i engine so you don't have to worry about this.

When I finally knock this out, I'll do a full write-up with lots of pics. Hard to believe there's not one here already.

Here's how you get to the starter IE: removing the manifold. Same process....