p2440, That f'ing pump!!!!!!

[slyfox75]

I think the plug and play is great option.
I've heard it supplies power to the bypass for 15secs once you turn ignition to on.
Which 99% of the time is no issue.

From your email you have P1442.....which was what I personally had a few years ago.....it is the BEST code to have as you have a valve stuck CLOSED.
Congrats Get a bypass and be done with it. Ebay, me, wherever.

 

[TexasA&M]

Did you get your issue figured out? I had to mess around with my 4Runner for a couple of days to get the valve closed, but it's been running great now for a couple of weeks without issue. Definitely worth the $45 from slyfox!!

 

[M1911]

Reading over at ClubLexus, it looks like this is also a problem on the GX 460. Several people are complaining about $2000 repairs. Ouch.

 

[HaulsBike]

One other question....

I plan on going with the SLYFOX bypass but I did look on ebay and the plug'n play version on there doesn't seem to require a wire running to the starter relay? How does that kit work if it is not connected to the starter relay?

Thanks

Another happy customer of SLYFOX's kit. Took maybe 15 minutes to install and my problem has been solved for about 3 days now. I am just glad my flaps were stuck closed.

 

[JRSC1]

Plates have to be installed?

I am installing the bypass as a preventative measure. No issues or codes.

Do I need to install the plates?

Thx. this is an awesome forum.

 

[HaulsBike]

I am installing the bypass as a preventative measure. No issues or codes.

Do I need to install the plates?

Thx. this is an awesome forum.

Others can chime in, but you do NOT need any plates in your situation since the flaps are currently working as designed. The plates are only needed if they are stuck open.

 

[ben550]

Reading over at ClubLexus, it looks like this is also a problem on the GX 460. Several people are complaining about $2000 repairs. Ouch.

Others can chime in, but you do NOT need any plates in your situation since the flaps are currently working as designed. The plates are only needed if they are stuck open.

Would this modification be reversible? Basically once the bypass is installed and in use for a time, would you be able to revert back to the stock setup and remove the bypass or do you think that without use the doors will seize and the pump will degrade while not in use...? Just curious.

 

[slyfox75]

Would this modification be reversible? Basically once the bypass is installed and in use for a time, would you be able to revert back to the stock setup and remove the bypass or do you think that without use the doors will seize and the pump will degrade while not in use...? Just curious.

So, yes. The mod is reversible in the sense you can easily go back to the stock design/setup. Whether or not using the pump(just an electric squirrel cage style pump for the most part) will make it die due to lack of use is anybody's guess. Same with Valves......Bergs shows some great pics of the internals....of used valves. It would be cool to see inside of new to see what the "foam" looks like new. I'm not sure why anyone would want to go back.....I guess maybe to sell it?? My plan is it will either be wrecked or explode before I get rid of it.....they are too good and too cheap to get rid of IMO.

On Side note:
NO NEED FOR PLATES UNLESS VALVES STUCK OPEN.
With Bergs and A&M.....through "experience" we learned if your valves are stuck open.....even with bypass......the ECU will let you know via limp mode they are indeed stuck open. THEN you put in the plates. Until then......don't worry about them. Once you put in a bypass and they are closed they will never actuate again......you should be good FOREVER. That's why I try and "preach" to JUST DO IT. Take if from some of these guys.....its WAY easier to do bypass early than to wait til you begin having issues.

 

[pk05limited]

My 05 4runner limited just had all of the symptoms. I used this forum and thread on the issue to educate myself. I reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery and all the lights, and limp mode was gone. I very gingerly drove it to get scanned and all the codes are gone too. I never had a shop vac sound but all my codes matched the problems other are having. I did notice if I give it much gas at all, there is a growling noise. Would not call it like a shop vac. Could the valves still be stuck open and the light just needs some time to come back on and engage limp mode again? What do you think my next step should be? Basic electronic kit or a full kit with bypass plates?

 

[pk05limited]

Update

I just drove the 4runner about 20 miles on the highway with no issues. Should I wait until I can get a bypass kit before driving it any more? Is there anything I can do to prevent the valve from getting stuck again before the the kit arrives?

 

[slyfox75]

Yeah, so ideally you park it until you get a bypass.
Many people cant do that however.
There is really nothing else to do besides getting the bypass put in.
Mine usually take 2-3 via USPS to get to you I can ship Monday.
Most likely get to MO on Wednesday.

 

[pk05limited]

Thanks Slyfox. I'll take one. I PM'd you with my phone number. If it is convenient for you I can pay for overnight shipping.

 

[ben550]

So, yes. The mod is reversible in the sense you can easily go back to the stock design/setup. Whether or not using the pump(just an electric squirrel cage style pump for the most part) will make it die due to lack of use is anybody's guess. Same with Valves......Bergs shows some great pics of the internals....of used valves. It would be cool to see inside of new to see what the "foam" looks like new. I'm not sure why anyone would want to go back.....I guess maybe to sell it?? My plan is it will either be wrecked or explode before I get rid of it.....they are too good and too cheap to get rid of IMO.

On Side note:
NO NEED FOR PLATES UNLESS VALVES STUCK OPEN.
With Bergs and A&M.....through "experience" we learned if your valves are stuck open.....even with bypass......the ECU will let you know via limp mode they are indeed stuck open. THEN you put in the plates. Until then......don't worry about them. Once you put in a bypass and they are closed they will never actuate again......you should be good FOREVER. That's why I try and "preach" to JUST DO IT. Take if from some of these guys.....its WAY easier to do bypass early than to wait til you begin having issues.

Ok. I did it.

Backstory. I have heard a faint whooshing sound every cold start. I assume the whoosh is the secondary air induction pump turning on to pump air into the cat... It is faint and only lasts for a second or two at the same time every cold start. I have yet to hear the shop vac sound. Being that the pump and valves are functioning as they should, I determined (at your recommendation) to install a bypass preemptively and not worry about it again. I purchased one of the kits off ebay (not sure if it was yours or not). I installed the bypass but did not install the included plates (because my valves were not stuck open... aka they still work).

I installed the kit a week ago and have not had any issues. No more whoosh sound right after startup. The pump no longer engages. It is perfect. Should be good forever now! I only asked about removing the kit in case I trade it in... in that case I would start the vehicle... get it hot, turn it off, remove the kit, start it up, drive to the dealer, trade it in, and be done with it...

I appreciate all your information on this topic. You should start a thread with an ebay link to your kit... or post your ebay link to this thread. I would have purchased your kit had I been able to find it quickly.

 

[slyfox75]

I want to be clear.....I don't sell my kits on eBay. Only from word of mouth or whatever from this forum and my email, [email protected].
I just do it for the 4Runner guys for the most part although the GX470 is basically the same except for wire color and tundra is same except for wire color and length of the cable I have to send with the kit.
I don't do these for any big money making scheme. This is really just to help fellow 4Runner people out so they don't get butt r@ped by the dealer for some dumb AIP system repair.

Glad to hear you are up and running.

-Jeff

 

[Bob22222]

Ok

"in that case I would start the vehicle... get it hot, turn it off, remove the kit, start it up, drive to the dealer, trade it in, and be done with it"

Ben, what a freaken low-life concept. Do you shop-lift as well? What the hell happened to honesty and integrity?

 

[RonJR]

I think the faint brief whooshing sound is normal at cold start. Mine does it, and as you've correctly surmised, that's related to the air pump forcing air through the cat. There's no need to resort to subterfuge to mask that sound when you sell it.

The EPA has rules that the mfgs have to meet, in order to get their emissions type certificate, concerning how quickly the engine meets emission standards immediately after startup. The air pump is part of the mechanism that enables them to meet that standard.

However, it's impractical for the state emissions testing stations to require that you bring your car in with a cold engine for the test (you'd have to trailer it to the station), so they have no way of testing that part of the system, which is why the bypass works. Look for OBDIII diagnostics sometime in the future which will monitor the start-up stuff and throw a code if it is not working. Not there yet, however.

 

[ndjose]

Sorry to revive just an old thread, but do the non VVTI engines also have this problem? I have an 03 V8, wondering if I should be proactive on this.

Thanks
Jose

 

[slyfox75]

No, 2005+ only.

 

[ndjose]

No, 2005+ only.

Thanks

 

[randy88fj62]

Has anyone with a 2008 or 2009 had this issue?