Panhard bar question

I don't understand why everyone over complicates this. If your willing to weld on your vehicle then why not just cut the bar and add an extension piece to it. It's the same thing as buying an adjustable bar except this version is a lot cheaper.
 
I don't understand why everyone over complicates this. If your willing to weld on your vehicle then why not just cut the bar and add an extension piece to it. It's the same thing as buying an adjustable bar except this version is a lot cheaper.

well, that doesn't correct the geometry issues that arise from lifting the truck. if you correct for angle, you don't actually need to extend anything.
 
I don't understand why everyone over complicates this. If your willing to weld on your vehicle then why not just cut the bar and add an extension piece to it. It's the same thing as buying an adjustable bar except this version is a lot cheaper.



It was proven through YEARS of discussions on this forum that you actually want your panhard bar as level as possible so you don’t get the loosely goosey feeling on the rear suspension. Also extending the panhard bar also increases the radius and pushes the drive shaft even further into the gas tank area during articulation. None of this is my own thinking. Is a compilation of what i’ve learned looking at pictures, drawings and everything else explaining it, and math.


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Was there a factory correction for the 99 Talls?

I have a set of the 99 springs that I was planning on installing, which as I understand it will probably only give me about 2 inches when paired with the 5100s.

Or should I just do the lift bracket on the axle?

Thanks,
 
Was there a factory correction for the 99 Talls?

I have a set of the 99 springs that I was planning on installing, which as I understand it will probably only give me about 2 inches when paired with the 5100s.

Or should I just do the lift bracket on the axle?

Thanks,
They might give you 2" of lift from your current height, but they aren't 2" higher than 'stock' height. Take a look at your panhard bar right now - it is probably higher on the axle side than the frame side.

Do the springs, then add the PCK if you need/want it at a later time.

-Charlie
 
Was there a factory correction for the 99 Talls?

I have a set of the 99 springs that I was planning on installing, which as I understand it will probably only give me about 2 inches when paired with the 5100s.

Or should I just do the lift bracket on the axle?

Thanks,

With 99 talls you probably wont need correction.
 
I don't understand why everyone over complicates this. If your willing to weld on your vehicle then why not just cut the bar and add an extension piece to it. It's the same thing as buying an adjustable bar except this version is a lot cheaper.

A nubee has been indentified with foot in mouth. JK. You'll learn there are a bunch of real smart folk here. I'm a AH just once a day most of the time.
 
Jst welded the brackets in and everything turned out great! Thanks!

I had to order an extended brake line and have to address the ebrake now...
 
so confused on best route to go with my future lift. However I only have a cheap little welder available that will go up to....but not including 1/4 inch. will that work for the welds...or should i have some professional do it ?
Was gonna go with the adjustable rod...as no welding needed...but seems thats not best option from what many are saying. Looking at 3 inch lift.

In the olden days with slammed bmw's and hondas...adjustble bar was the way to go for alignment adjustments etc....but that was going lower...not higher.
 
I only have a cheap little welder available that will go up to....but not including 1/4 inch. will that work for the welds....

It'll do the job the steel of PCK is 3/16" thick, axle mount is near same.
Chamfer edges of PCK and axle mount bracket 3/32", 1/4-3/8" wide bead.

Frame side is overlap type weld, I chamfered PCK bracket burned it into frame bracket same width on bead.
I welded inside also.
 
It'll do the job the steel of PCK is 3/16" thick, axle mount is near same.
Chamfer edges of PCK and axle mount bracket 3/32", 1/4-3/8" wide bead.

Frame side is overlap type weld, I chamfered PCK bracket burned it into frame bracket same width on bead.
I welded inside also.

thanks
 
I need an eimkeith PCK welded in SF Bay Area

Bringing this thread back to inquire if anyone can recommend a solution to the title of my reply: I need an eimkeith PCK welded in SF Bay Area

4X4 shop welder preferred if possible (for future work). Don't want to involve my friends who 'should be able to do it'

Thanks!
 
Advice on fixing rusted panhard bar bracket

First post to the forum, but have been living on this site since I started working on a 2001 that I picked up a couple months ago. Frame is in good shape, but have been updating front and rear suspension and fixing anything that is badly rusted.

I didn’t even realize I was missing the panhard bar until I noticed the rusted/broken bracket when replacing the rear coils. I know there are PCK brackets, but they all appear to fit on an existing bracket that is “fully there”. As you can see from this pic, I’ve lost the top half of this bracket.

I can get a welder to attach a new bracket, but I would prefer to give him a part that he can weld on instead of fabricating something custom.

Any advice? Thanks in advance!
 

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It would probably be best to find a complete new housing... Who knows how rusty the rest of the axle is - it could start leaking out the back cover any time (which is where they normally rust through first).

-Charlie
 
Thanks Charlie. Was hoping to find something easier, but that may be the path I eventually need to take. I’ll start keeping my eyes open for a used housing.
 
First post to the forum, but have been living on this site since I started working on a 2001 that I picked up a couple months ago. Frame is in good shape, but have been updating front and rear suspension and fixing anything that is badly rusted.

I didn’t even realize I was missing the panhard bar until I noticed the rusted/broken bracket when replacing the rear coils. I know there are PCK brackets, but they all appear to fit on an existing bracket that is “fully there”. As you can see from this pic, I’ve lost the top half of this bracket.

I can get a welder to attach a new bracket, but I would prefer to give him a part that he can weld on instead of fabricating something custom.

Any advice? Thanks in advance!
Wow! If a new axle housing ($1065 here) or used axle assembly isn't in your budget, then you will need to fabricate a new panhard mount and then weld it on. If you find another 4runner to measure, the panhard mount fabrication would not be difficult for a good fabricator. You will also need a panhard bar, but there are probably people that have OEM units they've taken off to install an adjustable panhard bar. But with that amount of rust on the axle, I wouldn't be so certain that the frame is good...

If I were you, I'd find a used complete axle with a locker (may as well upgrade!) However, on a budget, make sure the used unit at least matches your vehicle:
  1. ABS or not
  2. Elocker or not
  3. Gear ratio match with your front diff ratio

You shouldn't be surprised if a used complete axle assembly develops (or already had) oil leaks. Rear axle seal leaks are a common issue, and something to consider when buying a used axle assembly.
 
Thanks for advice! Given the rust on the rest of the axle, I’ve started looking for either a used housing or complete axle. At this point, more concerned about getting something that works well (and will be easy to work on) then saving a few bucks.
 

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