Panhard bar question

I'm curious about modding the factory skid plate as well.


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Here's a ( modified ) gas tank skid.:) Honestly the skid is such a lightweight gauge I wouldn't bother with making any thing for it , rather replace it all together . And please sign me up for a drop bracket as well . Thanks
 

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I'm curious about modding the factory skid plate as well.


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Here is a modified aftermarket skid [MENTION=52371]Gerdo[/MENTION] used to make and sell. Not sure if he is still active, been awhile since I seen him post. Its a very nice skid and looks to be well made.
 

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I wouldn't worry to much about modding the OEM skid either besides just hammering or cutting to make clearance. The stock skid barely does much anyways. I'm not sure how much clearance aftermarket skids have but they are worth the investment if you are worried about protecting the stock tank.
 
Ok, so I'm going to have to give up my sexy 8mm inner radius on the two bends on the spine and settle for 3mm there to get them made (which is fine, just won't hug the factory bend in the vertical corners.)

That said, I can make these happen at $29 each. Everyone good with that?

I'll start sending the PP requests to the folks who have already indicated they want one this evening. Anyone else (particularly if you are already getting a lift bracket) that wants one, please let me know here and via PM so I don't miss anyone.
 
Ok, so I'm going to have to give up my sexy 8mm inner radius on the two bends on the spine and settle for 3mm there to get them made (which is fine, just won't hug the factory bend in the vertical corners.)

That said, I can make these happen at $29 each. Everyone good with that?

I'll start sending the PP requests to the folks who have already indicated they want one this evening. Anyone else (particularly if you are already getting a lift bracket) that wants one, please let me know here and via PM so I don't miss anyone.

That shouldn't hurt/impact weld surfaces?
 
we'll lose about 1/4" around the factory corner in 2 spots. (I've built lots of weld opportunities into the brackets; no issue strength-wise.)

more importantly, it's a degree less sexy (I may be the only one who cares about that.)

the last revision was the only one that had 8mm radii on the corners, fwiw - all versions before the last one were 3mm (I've posted photos of both)
 
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more importantly, it's a degree less sexy (I may be the only one who cares about that.)

the last revision was the only one that had 8mm radii on the corners, fwiw - all versions before the last one were 3mm (I've posted photos of both)

Nahh, 3mm or 8mm, its still 90 degrees of sexiness to me. Its other curves more than make up for it.
 
Question-
I know it's best to have the PH parallel to the axle- for optimal suspension geometry.
That being said, I'm wondering if the trade off of lowering the roll center is worth having the PH parallel.

Just curious if it's worth lowering the frame end.
 
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Question-
I know it's best to have the PH parallel to the axle- for optimal suspension geometry.
That being said, I'm wondering if the trade off of lowering the roll center is worth having the PH parallel.

Just curious if it's worth lowering the frame end.

At 4" it shouldn't lower the roll center; should maintain it. (unless I'm thinking about this incorrectly) - 2 up, 2 down, correct? - so roll center stays where it is already with an extended panhard and no mount alterations, but with the flat-bar benefits.

3"- should raise it slightly: 2 up, 1 down, so that's putting it higher than the RC with the extended panhard/no mount alterations.

2" - should raise it more: 2 up, no down.

I can't give an exact measurement without drawing everything up, but you get the idea. (btw, since the panhard isn't symmetrical to the centerline of the chassis there is additional benefit, I believe.)

I'd love to hear [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] opinion on this also.
 
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That is bizarre. The driveshaft shouldn't come close to hitting the skid for the gas tank unless the rear end has got abnormal movement side to side which I imagine you would feel big time. My educated guess is a piece of road debris kicked up into the driveshaft and then the driveshaft smashed it into the gas tank skid.

Haha, mine looked like that too, until I took my angle grinder to the skid.
4"H X 7"W cut out works great!
 
Haha, mine looked like that too, until I took my angle grinder to the skid.
4"H X 7"W cut out works great!

It's interesting that you can see where Toyota made a recess in the skidplate for the driveshaft, but failed to make it long enough to clear the zerk...

Bizarre.

(and I was surprised to see in person that it comes that close)
 
At 4" it shouldn't lower the roll center; should maintain it. (unless I'm thinking about this incorrectly) - 2 up, 2 down, correct? - so roll center stays where it is already with an extended panhard and no mount alterations, but with the flat-bar benefits.

3"- should raise it slightly: 2 up, 1 down, so that's putting it higher than the RC with the extended panhard/no mount alterations.

2" - should raise it more: 2 up, no down.

I can't give an exact measurement without drawing everything up, but you get the idea. (btw, since the panhard isn't symmetrical to the centerline of the chassis there is additional benefit, I believe.)

I'd love to hear [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] opinion on this also.

100% Correct!

As for the PH being asymmetrical, as long as its as long and level as possible it shouldn't make any difference from what I have learned. I could be wrong though.
 
[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] - Didn't wanna quote you, 'cause I hate clutter.
Okay, yeah; I wasn't quite thinking it all the way through.
I wish I could know how big of an impact would be noticeable if I were to raise the axle side 4". That would mean a custom crossmember and axle bracket, but something I could fairly easily do if it made on-and-off-road handling much better.
 
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[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] - Didn't wanna quote you, 'cause I hate clutter.
Okay, yeah; I wasn't quite thinking it all the way through.
I wish I could know how big of an impact would be noticeable if I were to raise the axle side 4". That would mean a custom crossmember and axle bracket, but something I could do fairly easily do if it made on-and-off-road handling much better.


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I'm curious about that also, but the increase in likelihood of driveshaft/tank interference gave me pause.

(May revisit in the future, though; already have some ideas about it.)
 
Here is a modified aftermarket skid [MENTION=52371]Gerdo[/MENTION] used to make and sell. Not sure if he is still active, been awhile since I seen him post. Its a very nice skid and looks to be well made.
Gerdo's skid is awesome! I've been sliding it on rocks since 2012
 

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