Phattyduck's '99 4WD swap

Hey Charlie, I enjoyed skimming through this thread (some parts were well beyond me), thanks for taking the time to put it together! I'm looking to refresh my suspension and think my goals are largely the same as yours: minor 1-2" lift with a slight rake, mostly on-road SoCal driving with decent non-extreme off-road capability.

It sounds like you're running OEM 99 talls up front and OME 906s in the back with 5100s all around. Is this right, and are you happy with it? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but also considering an all-OME setup with 880s in front, 906s in the back, and their softer rear shocks.
 
I'm looking to refresh my suspension and think my goals are largely the same as yours: minor 1-2" lift with a slight rake, mostly on-road SoCal driving with decent non-extreme off-road capability.

It sounds like you're running OEM 99 talls up front and OME 906s in the back with 5100s all around. Is this right, and are you happy with it? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but also considering an all-OME setup with 880s in front, 906s in the back, and their softer rear shocks.
Actually, I'm using my original '99 2WD springs - they originally sat nearly as tall as the "99 talls" - until you add the weight of a 4WD system! That dropped the front down about 3/4" from factory height. To lift the front, I used a small top plate spacer and the spring perches on the front 5100's. My goal is/was to keep the front as soft as possible, and I figure using springs meant for a lighter truck will fit the bill.

The rears are currently 5th gen 4Runner rear springs and 10mm trim packers. I do plan on getting 906's at some point.

-Charlie
 
Charlie awesome truck man, I just installed my 906s and going to lower the king's in front this weekend, we need to go offroading again!!
 
Charlie awesome truck man, I just installed my 906s and going to lower the king's in front this weekend, we need to go offroading again!!
Get your wife over here again to help with the twins. :hello: :baby::baby:

The 4Runner did well for the little bit of offroading I got to do in the spring - so yes, we should get back out. I haven't even gotten under the truck to reconnect the front swaybar. :)

-Charlie
 
Hey Charlie, I enjoyed skimming through this thread (some parts were well beyond me), thanks for taking the time to put it together! I'm looking to refresh my suspension and think my goals are largely the same as yours: minor 1-2" lift with a slight rake, mostly on-road SoCal driving with decent non-extreme off-road capability.

It sounds like you're running OEM 99 talls up front and OME 906s in the back with 5100s all around. Is this right, and are you happy with it? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but also considering an all-OME setup with 880s in front, 906s in the back, and their softer rear shocks.

I have 906s (w/5100s) with 99Talls in front (green Tokkicos). I'm very happy with the ride and slight rake.
 
Updated scangauge mount installed (from Paranoid Fabrications), bought used from TonyB66. He had already installed a backing strip to hold the Scangauge up in place. I added velcro to the back and a bit of foam to hold it snuggly in place:

cV2fgwOh.jpg


My previous mount was in the same place, just a bit more ghetto... two bits of aluminum bent so they hug the Scangauge:

U6q5fbxh.jpg


While I had the dash open, I also disabled the auto-AC on defrost. My favorite air setting for most situations is defrost - you can get plenty of air movement without anything blowing in your face (one of my few pet peeves about the 4Runner - you can't point the AC vents low enough to stay out of your face!). The only problem is the AC comes on in this mode to dry the air for clearing the windshield - which is almost never needed in California.

gdDEZnih.jpg


You just need to unplug this two pin connector on the back right corner of the AC controls. This only works on the manual AC trucks. It only affects the two defrost settings, and otherwise everything works normally. I'm smart enough to turn on the AC if I need extra de-humidifying at some point... I did the same thing on my '03 WRX with great success. My Camry doesn't turn the AC on automatically with defrost, so no worries there.

-Charlie
 
Charlie, you didn't waste much time to install it! Looks really good, and I like the velcro improvement too.

Thanks for sharing your Auto-AC on defrost mod. Not quite the pet peeve here, but I can appreciate that for sure.
 
Updated scangauge mount installed (from Paranoid Fabrications), bought used from TonyB66. He had already installed a backing strip to hold the Scangauge up in place. I added velcro to the back and a bit of foam to hold it snuggly in place:

That's the first time I've seen the paranoid fabrication scangauge holder. Was there any fitting required or did the mount bolt in pretty easily? What thickness foam did you use?
 
Does this AC defrost mod work for earlier years too, like the '97?
It should for any of the fully-manual AC trucks. It even looks like the wiring colors are the same on the '97. I can't guarantee the switch is the the same location, as the control panel is slightly different on the '96-'98 trucks.

-Charlie
 
It should for any of the fully-manual AC trucks. It even looks like the wiring colors are the same on the '97. I can't guarantee the switch is the the same location, as the control panel is slightly different on the '96-'98 trucks.

-Charlie

Thanks Charlie. I'll try this next time I have the bezel out (I try to minimize how often I pull the "wood" bezel off, it's fragile as heck).
 
That's the first time I've seen the paranoid fabrication scangauge holder. Was there any fitting required or did the mount bolt in pretty easily? What thickness foam did you use?
The mount itself is a direct fit. What you get from Paranoid is just the bent bracket with the rectangular hole and mounting holes. The fitting comes with deciding how you are going to hold the scangauge in place. Tony did most of the work necessary, I just added a few things I had around the garage.

The foam I used is maybe 3/16" thick and pretty stiff (the 'rubbery' stuff, not the 'foamy' stuff). It is some stuff I grabbed free from work years ago that I use as padding for all my interior silencing needs... It would have worked just fine with a thinner foam, as there is only a very small amount of free play in the mount (1/16" or less).

-Charlie
 
The mount itself is a direct fit. What you get from Paranoid is just the bent bracket with the rectangular hole and mounting holes. The fitting comes with deciding how you are going to hold the scangauge in place. Tony did most of the work necessary, I just added a few things I had around the garage.

The foam I used is maybe 3/16" thick and pretty stiff (the 'rubbery' stuff, not the 'foamy' stuff). It is some stuff I grabbed free from work years ago that I use as padding for all my interior silencing needs... It would have worked just fine with a thinner foam, as there is only a very small amount of free play in the mount (1/16" or less).

-Charlie

Perfect thanks man. I currently have my scangauge wedged in place using my ashtray. This was supposed to be temporary until I was able to fab something up without cutting or drilling into the dash/panels. 4 years later I see this in your build. About to order one now.
 
It should for any of the fully-manual AC trucks. It even looks like the wiring colors are the same on the '97. I can't guarantee the switch is the the same location, as the control panel is slightly different on the '96-'98 trucks.

-Charlie

Controls are same from 98-00. Didn't think it would be that simple. Awesome tip.
 
Just did the defrost mod and yes it works!! That auto AC on with the defrost is annoying. I like having the option to turn on the AC if needed.

Thanks again!!!

Btw...maybe a separate “how to” thread for this mod. Might be hard to other members to find in the future.
 
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The 4WD swap is officially completed!

First, the boring stuff. The transfer case shifter seat was pretty much dust, so I replaced it with a Marlin Crawler blue shift seat:

3AQkSA5.jpg


VZSZGJm.jpg


The only challenge there is getting the snap ring back in place. Finding the right combination of downward pressure and force in the snap ring is a tough.

I got the rest of the harness put together (was cut by the guy that I bought the parts truck from) and loomed. This covers the 3 switches on the transfer case and the ADD indicator switch:

EEecTl6.jpg


Then pull the glove compartment out to get to the ECU and pull the harness:

vzJkbrX.jpg


Then plug in and run the harness as close as I could to the stock harness:

dA1NfDz.jpg


I48qRi6.jpg


Then it is down to figuring out which wires need to go where. About half of the wires needed to be 'adjusted' with different ends because Toyota changed where in the connectors the wires went (big terminals for small terminals, etc.). Many of the wire colors also changed, which required a lot of cross referencing between diagrams. All of the wiring for manual transfer case was already under the dash (ADD relay plug, all the wires at the gauge cluster). I did pull the cluster to put in a few bulbs and replace the burned out "D" bulb...

It actually rained in Southern California, so I was even able to test it a bit on the street without stressing the drivetrain too much...

All the lights work (well, both the lights) - including the A/T P light, which you really should never see...

X3Y9kDJ.jpg


The truck is about to roll over 270k miles, which means engine maintenance is up next (timing belt, water pump, radiator, etc.). Or maybe suspension... :D

-Charlie

I'm pretty close to purchasing a wrecked 4x4 and swapping all the parts in mine. I've been doing my homework for quite some time now in preparation for the swap with multiple sources having done this previously. Can you give me an idea or any reference as to how you achieved all the wiring? Where can I find what I need to splice into? Oddly enough the electrical components are my biggest concern. I'd prefer it to look as factory as possible, with all the indicators and switches. I have a '99 Limited 2x4 swapping with an '02 Limited 4x4.
 
I'm pretty close to purchasing a wrecked 4x4 and swapping all the parts in mine. I've been doing my homework for quite some time now in preparation for the swap with multiple sources having done this previously. Can you give me an idea or any reference as to how you achieved all the wiring? Where can I find what I need to splice into? Oddly enough the electrical components are my biggest concern. I'd prefer it to look as factory as possible, with all the indicators and switches. I have a '99 Limited 2x4 swapping with an '02 Limited 4x4.
I have the full OEM printed wiring diagrams for my 4Runner, and I got a subscription to the Toyota TIS system do download the diagrams for my '97 parts truck. That covers getting the diagrams. You can find the '02 diagrams floating around on the internet. Make sure you get the correct diagram for your 4Runner year though (there were at least some changes every year).

Otherwise, I'm an electrical engineer and have done a few other Toyota re-wiring projects (motor swaps, etc.) so the wiring was really the easiest part for me.

You are going for a much more difficult swap though. The multi-mode system has a separate computer, different cluster (multi-mode indicators), actuators on the transfer case, etc. Also, the transmission on the '01/'02 trucks is different than the earlier transmissions (electronic line pressure control) and is incompatible with the earlier trucks. The engine control, ABS system, etc. is also totally different.

It can be done, but not with ~6 wires like I did in my swap... It would be more like doing a body swap, putting all the '02 components into your current body/frame.

-Charlie
 
Thanks for the helpful advice. Ironically I found a thread while searching for diagrams where you linked the '99 Diagrams book so I purchased that off eBay. I'm in no hurry so I figure I'll keep an eye out for a wrecked '99 to make life easier. In the mean time I'll keep collecting additional resources for the job. I can't wait to finally tackle the swap, hopefully later this summer (or whenever I find the donor). Thanks again for the help!
 
So I got my hands on a limited ‘99 ECU with the harness that goes into the engine bay. I’ve got my heads out so that is going to be very convenient. My question now is, will my speedometer cluster automatically light up or is there further modification I have to do to get the 4x4 signal to light up? I tried to get the exact trim and year to prevent as much cross referencing years as possible.
 

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