Piecing together a toytec lift. Help?

mk1noob

New member
Sorry guys, its another one of ~those~ threads lol

Ok i have honestly been reading on lift kits for the last.... well about 6 months since i first bought my 2000 4runner lol and Im still just as confused as when i started. I do about 70% on road driving and 30% off road driving and after 230k miles my suspension is looking pretty sad.

I want a 3" kit, because the higher the better right? lol I was originally wanting a toytec ultimate kit but seeing as how they are on back order i dont want to wait and im trying to get my rig ready for the trail season.

I want to go with new parts (so no used LC springs) and i dont want to go to 15 different shops trying to find the right parts.

It has no extra weight right now, but my future plans are a rola roof rack with an extension, and about 50-80 lbs of recovery gear that will be left in it at all times.

This is what im looking at (but im not dead set of any of this)
Bilstein 5100 front shocks:
Front Bilstein Height adjustable 5100 shocks

Eibach front springs:
Toytec/Eibach front coil lift springs

Bilstein 5125 rear shocks:
Rear Bilstein Shocks for 96-02 4RUN

Superflex rear coils:
ToyTec Superflex Rear Coils (96-02 4Runner)


Now the reason Im making a thread is mainly to be assured that im not missing anything. Will this combo make for a level stance? I really dont want any rake, and at most a half inch or so.


Thoughts? Input?
 
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ok thats good to know. Thank you.

So then what rear spring would be recommended for 50-80lbs of gear in the back at all times? Again, id prefer if there was little to no rake.
 
I have the exact setup that you have listed except I have the extended travel rear shocks. Like already said, you will want a extended rear brake line.

Here's how it sits:
B5FFD964-00A3-4A2D-BBAC-137ED3CC7587-5991-000006F80AF8FE6A_zps755586bd.jpg~original
 
You're also going to need a front diff drop, panhard bar drop (weld on) or adjustable panhard bar, front UCAs, and possibly adjustable rear upper and lower control arms.

Your CV axles (if they're really old) may blow from the height change as well.

Happy lifting!

-NR
 
So how about this setup?
Bilstein 5100 front shocks:
Front Bilstein Height adjustable 5100 shocks

And shock mount bushings:
Front shock replacement bushing/washer kit

Eibach front springs:
Toytec/Eibach front coil lift springs

Bilstein 5125 rear shocks:
Rear Bilstein Shocks for 96-02 4RUN

OME 890 rear coils:
OME 890 Coils


Am i missing anything important? Like those front springs wont work with those shocks, or its only a 2.5" front lift vs a 3"?

Silly question, but when you look at something long enough its hard to see whats right infront of you.
 
Im guessing since no one has posted that means im good to go right? Ill update this post when i get it installed, hopefully in a week or two.
 
ok i lied, one... or maybe two more questions....

Is it worth the extra $50 to go with the tundra front bilstein shocks? and what setting should i leave my front shocks if i go with the 4runner/taco shocks?
 
You're good to go with the Taco 5100's and the 3" Eibachs. Leave the shock at it's lowest setting (Tundra or Taco) for about 2.5"/3" of lift. If you place the shock higher with the Eibachs, You're gonna get wayyy more than you need and will surely anger some other things. Everything else posted above is perfect. Maybe think about replacing all the sway bar/end-link bushings with poly's whilst it's all apart. Check the control arm bushings while your in there (Toytec sells a ES poly set if needed). Also a good time to do LBJ's if needed. My preferred way to install the new coilovers is just unhooking the LBJ's anyway. Your CV boots will most likely fail after lifting and diff drop install. Keep that in mind. Them thar Eibachs require some pretty good spring compressors to get them on. Be careful.
 

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I'm running the same thing except I'm running Tundra 5100s and OME 890s in the rear. I have my Tundra 5100s on the 2nd notch and it lifted the front of my 2wd about 3.5". I ended up buying 4 10mm trimpackers (2 for each side) to put in the back to get about 1" of rake.
 
You're also going to need a front diff drop, panhard bar drop (weld on) or adjustable panhard bar, front UCAs, and possibly adjustable rear upper and lower control arms.

Your CV axles (if they're really old) may blow from the height change as well.

Happy lifting!

-NR

These items are optional. You do not "need" them. Will they help? Maybe, maybe not. I haven't had any problems getting mine aligned, and nothing has blown apart in the year and a half I've had mine lifted.
There are plenty of us running 3"-4" of lift with none of these with no problems. OP will most likely need to change out the CV boots, but thats simply because they have been at the same angle for 13 years...

OP,

I have heard from a few that the Tundra 5100s are a little better, not only because you get 5 settings, but they are a tad bit more plush. I've ridden in 4Runners with them and they are nice. Also, the 890s you are thinking of would be good for 3" of lift. You can adjust the front 5100s accordingly, I would guess first or second notch would do to match the rear. If you go with the 890s, you can go with the first shocks you picked (5125s).
 
Last edited:
Toytec Untimate Lift Work Well

I recently installed Toytec Ultimate lift on '98 3rd Gen.

Front: Red Coil / Bilstein 5100
Rear: OME 890 / Bilstein 5125

The front I set at 2.5" lift while rear I raised 3"
Also I install Diff Drop and 1.25" Wheel Spacer (SpiderTrax)
Stock 16" wheel with BFG KM2 265/75/16
They look and drive great and soon to test off road.

I'm having trouble post the pic. If want some pics send me a private message with your # or email then I can send them to you.
 

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