Plasti dip and roof rails

[adrtoy]

I know this has been done by some so I'm hoping to get some feedback as to long term durability. Trying to decide whether to Plasti dip or have them vinyl wrapped.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Angelo]

I know this has been done by some so I'm hoping to get some feedback as to long term durability. Trying to decide whether to Plasti dip or have them vinyl wrapped.

Maybe someone with experience in both can jump in here too, but my impression is that they're sort of the same when it comes to durability. Which is to say, if you're worried about them getting scratched up or scuffed over time, consider something more durable like spray paint or powder coat.

Having said that, you can always re-do plastidip or spray paint yourself for like $8 a can, way cheaper and less hassle than a scuffed /torn wrap or scratched powder coat.

 

[4RunnerAU]

I plastidipped the roof rails. It may be easier than vinyl wrapping but I am not happy with the look, but I would encourage you to try it since you may do a better job than I. I just found the plasti-dip didn't go on as smoothly as it did the logos and I noticed the black color seemed much lighter in direct sunlight when compared to the rest of my black 4Runner. You can probably fix that with black spray paint but I didn't want something permanent on there in case I decide to go for a stock look.

 

[TSRunner2016]

I'm considering this for my magnetic grey SR5, can't decide wether to go with black plastidip only or finish it off with the graphic metalizer I have.. Good thing it's so easy to remove and re do.. Just gotta get around to the doing part

 

[KingTaco]

I just did this to my 2016TE last week. I used the Rustoleum version of PlastiDip, and can't believe how well it turned out. I've heard the Rustoleum version goes on a bit more fine than the PlastiDip. I used many thin coats, but you don't have to wait long between coats. I think it looks totally factory, and makes a big difference on the overall look of the truck. I can't speak much to durability yet, but even if you were to beat them up, you can always touch up the dip. It was incredilbly easy to do, so even if you don't like it and want to remove it, you haven't lost much time or money. There is a good YouTube video on how to remove the boots and rails here:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HVeuXVOmKbw

Good luck!

 

[willie2323]

I just did this to my 2016TE last week. I used the Rustoleum version of PlastiDip, and can't believe how well it turned out. I've heard the Rustoleum version goes on a bit more fine than the PlastiDip. I used many thin coats, but you don't have to wait long between coats. I think it looks totally factory, and makes a big difference on the overall look of the truck. I can't speak much to durability yet, but even if you were to beat them up, you can always touch up the dip. It was incredilbly easy to do, so even if you don't like it and want to remove it, you haven't lost much time or money. There is a good YouTube video on how to remove the boots and rails here:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HVeuXVOmKbw

Good luck!

My limited experience (rear hatch chrome lettering and toyota emblem) with the Rustoleum product is exactly as you describe it...goes on very fine and short time to dry between coats. However I was not happy with the removal. It did not come off very easy as shown in some of the youtube videos that compared the plastidip to flexidip (Rustoleum product). A lot of little tiny pieces...but in the application of the roof rails it should not be a factor. I am going to try the flexidip on my roof rails.

 

[CF_Machete]

Did mine a while back. They look great and held up to everything except for the factory roof rails. They tore the dip, however I reinstalled the factory bars less than 24 hours after applying the dip, so perhaps that had something to do with it.

That said, I've done several trips with Yakima bars supporting Yakima roof boxes and not so much as a scratch or a mark on the dip.

 

[Liquidmantis]

First, the difference in look makes any option worthwhile. I Plastidipped mine after doing the valances and emblems, and putting black TRD wheels and black powdercoated sliders on. It seemed like a minor detail but it really completed the look.

I opted for Plastidip because I knew it was easily reversible and I knew that I'd be getting a full-length rack in the nearish future (finally ordered my Gobi last week). While I wouldn't recommend trying to put the factory cross bars back in, my rails have held up great for the six months since I coated them. I put Yakima Rail Grabs and crossbars on and have loaded my kayak a couple dozen times, hung off the rails while climbing up, loading, and washing, off-roaded through low pine boughs, etc., and they still look great.

Plastidip is really durable once well-cured. I haven't given it any special consideration with my pressure washer (granted it's just a home-owner electric pressure washer) and have had no peeling/flaking/bubbling issues at all. I've at least lightly dragged both my front and rear valances and it wasn't until my recent NM trip where I had a decent drag on the rear valance that I did anything. My first thought was that I had gouged the plastic and peeled back a couple of strips. It wasn't until I was back home and washing it that I realized I had forgotten that I had Plastidipped it and what I was seeing was a bit of torn 'Dip. So I'd imagine that if you let the rails cure and use extreme care you could probably use the factory crossbars if you really wanted.

Man, that was wordy...

 

[Pigeye]

I tried to wrap mine myself (add that to the list of things I can't do). I then had a friend of a friend who does wraps for a living do my roof rails. They turned out great and have not shown any wear after 6 months or so. I also don't use my racks for carrying anything so your mileage may vary. I opted for a flat black wrap with the intention of that holding me over until I buy a Gobi sometime down the road.

 

[Maadcaap]

I went with wrap

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