please help me? loss all accessory power and engine don't turn over on my 4runner

[perrisjoe82]

I have no accessory lights and everything that works on that mode does not work anymore like powerwindows ect. and of course engine don't turn on aswell Ok today I got into the ignition switch and jumped a wire that was hot to another and was able get all the accessory lights on and engine to start up..I checked all fuses and they seem to be ok I even changed out the electrical part on the back of the ignition switch and still nothing..Running lights and head lights work fine..Can anyone help me.?? Thank You. sorry its a 1994 v6

 

[Hepar]

I have no accessory lights and everything that works on that mode does not work anymore like powerwindows ect. and of course engine don't turn on aswell Ok today I got into the ignition switch and jumped a wire that was hot to another and was able get all the accessory lights on and engine to start up..I checked all fuses and they seem to be ok I even changed out the electrical part on the back of the ignition switch and still nothing..Running lights and head lights work fine..Can anyone help me.?? Thank You. sorry its a 1994 v6

Hey. That is an interesting problem for sure. I would say to post this in the Classic section as this one is for the 3rd gens (1996-2002).

 

[YotaZach85]

Check the big fuses in the engine bay.

 

[CommanderDave]

Same problem here

I am encountering the same problem with my 2001 4wd (220k miles).

Moving the key to the 'on' position does not start the diagnostic check where all of the lights come on in the dash. Moving to 'start' does not engage the starter. No noise whatsoever (no click.click.click from low voltage). Did not think to check 'acc' with radio use until reading this thread. Checked, and radio does not operate when key is in 'acc'. Headlights to work, as do interior light, and 'door open' light.

My immediate suspicion was battery (isn't that where we always start? :suspicious:

Pulled a voltage, and it was within acceptable range. Left it hooked up to a trickle charger over night anyway. No joy. Battery fully charged, and failure persists.

I have looked at the fuses...the 'big ones' have no visual cue as to if they have failed or not...but their names on the map do not indicate that they should be part of the problem.

Anyone have some input on this one? If one of the fuses is still suspect, should there be one or two that I should concentrate on...It is cheap to replace a fuse or two shooting in the dark :laser:

 

[A.Wilson013]

I am encountering the same problem with my 2001 4wd (220k miles).

Moving the key to the 'on' position does not start the diagnostic check where all of the lights come on in the dash. Moving to 'start' does not engage the starter. No noise whatsoever (no click.click.click from low voltage). Did not think to check 'acc' with radio use until reading this thread. Checked, and radio does not operate when key is in 'acc'. Headlights to work, as do interior light, and 'door open' light.

My immediate suspicion was battery (isn't that where we always start? :suspicious:

Pulled a voltage, and it was within acceptable range. Left it hooked up to a trickle charger over night anyway. No joy. Battery fully charged, and failure persists.

I have looked at the fuses...the 'big ones' have no visual cue as to if they have failed or not...but their names on the map do not indicate that they should be part of the problem.

Anyone have some input on this one? If one of the fuses is still suspect, should there be one or two that I should concentrate on...It is cheap to replace a fuse or two shooting in the dark :laser:

Even with the best vision it can sometimes be impossible to visually check a fuse.

If you have a multimeter the resistance between the terminals on the fuse should be 0.00. If it's not, replace that fuse.

 

[310Nesta]

I second that. I always check fuses with a multimeter even if it looks good. They sometimes blow in places not easy to see.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I am encountering the same problem with my 2001 4wd (220k miles).

Moving the key to the 'on' position does not start the diagnostic check where all of the lights come on in the dash. Moving to 'start' does not engage the starter. No noise whatsoever (no click.click.click from low voltage). Did not think to check 'acc' with radio use until reading this thread. Checked, and radio does not operate when key is in 'acc'. Headlights to work, as do interior light, and 'door open' light.

My immediate suspicion was battery (isn't that where we always start? :suspicious:

Pulled a voltage, and it was within acceptable range. Left it hooked up to a trickle charger over night anyway. No joy. Battery fully charged, and failure persists.

I have looked at the fuses...the 'big ones' have no visual cue as to if they have failed or not...but their names on the map do not indicate that they should be part of the problem.

Anyone have some input on this one? If one of the fuses is still suspect, should there be one or two that I should concentrate on...It is cheap to replace a fuse or two shooting in the dark :laser:

OK, first thing, look in the engine bay fuse block, and check voltage at the big connector at the top of this picture.
http://www.top4runners.com/ja/1999/electrical/fog/fusebox.jpg

Does the dome light turn on?

 

[CommanderDave]

First thing's first, thank you so much for responding & helping with this. I am a shade tree variety mechanic at best, and my weak spot is definitely electrical.

The dome light does work, as do headlights, tail lights, and the 'door ajar' light, etc.

Voltage at the terminal lug specified is 12.61vdc. This is the same voltage I read across the battery.

 

[TheDurk]

First thing's first, thank you so much for responding & helping with this. I am a shade tree variety mechanic at best, and my weak spot is definitely electrical.

The dome light does work, as do headlights, tail lights, and the 'door ajar' light, etc.

Voltage at the terminal lug specified is 12.61vdc. This is the same voltage I read across the battery.

Take your multimeter and check both ends of the 10A GAUGE fuse. If no power at either end, then it is time to check the 40 AMP AM1 fuse in the main engine relay/fuse block.

 

[CommanderDave]

Take your multimeter and check both ends of the 10A GAUGE fuse. If no power at either end, then it is time to check the 40 AMP AM1 fuse in the main engine relay/fuse block.

It is currently raining here, and I don't have a garage. Will check when the rain lets up.

I did take a pick of my fuse block and cover earlier, and none of my fuses are id'ed as 10a gauge. I do have several 10a fuses, but none identified as gauge.

I do have the 40a am1 fuse. I'll pull it and check its continuity as soon as the rain lets up.

Thanks!

 

[IBallEngineer]

It is currently raining here, and I don't have a garage. Will check when the rain lets up.

I did take a pick of my fuse block and cover earlier, and none of my fuses are id'ed as 10a gauge. I do have several 10a fuses, but none identified as gauge.

I do have the 40a am1 fuse. I'll pull it and check its continuity as soon as the rain lets up.

Thanks!

The 10A Gauge fuse is in the driver's side lower dash fuse block. 2nd row, middle!

 

[CommanderDave]

The 10A Gauge fuse is in the driver's side lower dash fuse block. 2nd row, middle!

OH!!! Fantastic! I was looking in the underhood fuse block

 

[CommanderDave]

Take your multimeter and check both ends of the 10A GAUGE fuse. If no power at either end, then it is time to check the 40 AMP AM1 fuse in the main engine relay/fuse block.

OK, rain has let up here, and I took the multimeter out to check fuses.

10a gauge fuse - Passed
40a am1 fuse - passed

While at the interior fuse block I pulled and tested other fuses as well (now that I'm learning a bit about what they are):

10a ecu-ig fuse - passed
10a ign fuse - passed
30a power fuse - passed
7.5a ecu-b fuse - passed

 

[TheDurk]

OK, rain has let up here, and I took the multimeter out to check fuses.

10a gauge fuse - Passed
40a am1 fuse - passed

While at the interior fuse block I pulled and tested other fuses as well (now that I'm learning a bit about what they are):

10a ecu-ig fuse - passed
10a ign fuse - passed
30a power fuse - passed
7.5a ecu-b fuse - passed

On the GAUGE and AM1, did you say pass because you did a resistance check, or you checked in place for presence of 12V+? Please do the second, as the presence of power at a certain point in the circuit is much more info than just whether the fuse is dead.

I assume you did a resistance check as you talk about pulling fuses and that is not what we need at this point. That's why I said BOTH ENDS of the GAUGE fuse. It's looking like you have a key switch issue and I can't track that down doing resistance checks on fuses. The GAUGE fuse needs to be checked for 12V+ with ignition on.

Does your blinker work? I suspect not.

 

[CommanderDave]

On the GAUGE and AM1, did you say pass because you did a resistance check, or you checked in place for presence of 12V+? Please do the second, as the presence of power at a certain point in the circuit is much more info than just whether the fuse is dead.

I assume you did a resistance check as you talk about pulling fuses and that is not what we need at this point. That's why I said BOTH ENDS of the GAUGE fuse. It's looking like you have a key switch issue and I can't track that down doing resistance checks on fuses. The GAUGE fuse needs to be checked for 12V+ with ignition on.

Does your blinker work? I suspect not.

Sorry about that, I misunderstood what we were trying to accomplish.

Also pulled the voltage across the socket for the 40a am1. I had voltage there, but only 10.16 vdc. Normal?

I did not see how to test the circuit with fuse in place. I pulled fuse and inserted multimeter probes into the socket. Moved key to 'on' position. There was no voltage reading in the gauge socket.

And, you were correct, the turn signals did not operate.

 

[CommanderDave]

Additional update:

Following this line of questions, I began to wonder about the transmission in park / ignition switch relationship. I used the transmission lock bypass, and moved the tranny into neutral. symptoms still prevail, but what I did notice was that upon returning to Park, the steering wheel did not 'lock'. I force turned 1/2 turn in each direction, and it did not 'lock' the steering wheel.

 

[TheDurk]

Sorry about that, I misunderstood what we were trying to accomplish.

Also pulled the voltage across the socket for the 40a am1. I had voltage there, but only 10.16 vdc. Normal?

I did not see how to test the circuit with fuse in place. I pulled fuse and inserted multimeter probes into the socket. Moved key to 'on' position. There was no voltage reading in the gauge socket.

And, you were correct, the turn signals did not operate.

On the little blade fuses, there are two small holes in the top of the fuse itself that will accept your probe. So, with the other probe on ground, you can test for 12V+ both entering and leaving the fuse. This is what I wanted, but you gave me enough to go on here.

The 10.16V 'across the socket' is probably normal, because your path to ground is through whatever circuits loads are on that fuse. Again, better to test to a good ground (battery negative if your probe can reach).

Given that, and the pass on the resistance test, we'll call AM1 good and passing 12V+.

You definitely appear to have a dead key switch, or a wiring issue in that area.

[Gonna try to find the EWD for your year, as these vary, and now we need to be specific to nail that down. I'll come back and add to this when I find it.]

We're getting there.

By the way, using the voltmeter to test fuses is preferred over resistance because a burnt fuse can separate and then reestablish contact. This can give you a false zero resistance reading, where the meter shows zero but the fuse cannot pass a working load across the crappy contact.

A test light is even better than a meter because it requires a decent amount of current. So the best way is clip a test light to battery negative (or good chassis ground) on one side, and then use the probe on the light to go through the little holes in the fuse, and test for voltage on both sides with the fuse in place. This also tests the entire circuit leading TO the fuse.

 

[CommanderDave]

On the little blade fuses, there are two small holes in the top of the fuse itself that will accept your probe. So, with the other probe on ground, you can test for 12V+ both entering and leaving the fuse. This is what I wanted, but you gave me enough to go on here.

The 10.16V 'across the socket' is probably normal, because your path to ground is through whatever circuits loads are on that fuse. Again, better to test to a good ground (battery negative if your probe can reach).

Given that, and the pass on the resistance test, we'll call AM1 good and passing 12V+.

You definitely appear to have a dead key switch, or a wiring issue in that area.

[Gonna try to find the EWD for your year, as these vary, and now we need to be specific to nail that down. I'll come back and add to this when I find it.]

We're getting there.

Thanks again! I will continue reading on my side as well. At least I'm learning more about something that I usually consider my weakness

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks again! I will continue reading on my side as well. At least I'm learning more about something that I usually consider my weakness

OK. I'm back. You need to access the back of the key switch. Then confirm that the white wire (which comes from the AM1 fuse) has 12V+. Then test the black/yellow wire. It should be dead. Turn key to ignition on. Black/yellow should then be live. If not, key switch is your problem. Good luck. As I said, a test light is what I prefer but you can use your voltmeter.

Just for fun, also test at your 7.5A START fuse on both sides with key in START position. That will tell us if the other gang of the key switch is working or not.

Obviously, you want to look carefully for any loose screws on the key switch and any broken or burnt wires or sockets connected to the switch.

Here is the EWD I'm working from. 2002 and 2001 are electrically identical. At least, I haven't seen any differences yet.


http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/012ps.pdf

 

[CommanderDave]

OK. I'm back. You need to access the back of the key switch. Then confirm that the white wire (which comes from the AM1 fuse) has 12V+. Then test the black/yellow wire. It should be dead. Turn key to ignition on. Black/yellow should then be live. If not, key switch is your problem. Good luck. As I said, a test light is what I prefer but you can use your voltmeter.

Just for fun, also test at your 7.5A START fuse on both sides with key in START position. That will tell us if the other gang of the key switch is working or not.

Obviously, you want to look carefully for any loose screws on the key switch and any broken or burnt wires or sockets connected to the switch.

Here is the EWD I'm working from. 2002 and 2001 are electrically identical. At least, I haven't seen any differences yet.


http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/012ps.pdf

The rain has returned, and has run be back in. I have the trim pieces removed to get back to the ignition switch. I went out earlier and purchased a test light, so I can perform the tests as requested (seemed like a handy thing to have in the tool box anyway).

Do I need to be concerned about the airbag? If so, disabling it seems pretty straight forward...disconnect battery...wait minimum of 2 minutes...access yellow plug on underside of steering column and disconnect. From that point, reconnect battery to perform the tests you have outlined...making sure to re-connect airbag with battery disconnected.

Sorry, I guess I'm a little keyed up with the explosives over my head :flame: