Polishing a TuRD: supercharging my 1998 4runner

[jhodro]

A little background: my fiancé and moved from NYC to the burbs almost two years ago and bought a 120yr old house to restore. We realized that we would need a reliable beater for hauling building equipment and I wanted something that could do double duty hauling motorcycles (my other hobby). Always loved the 3rd gen so picked up a 1998 limited with 72k miles on it. It was a Central Florida truck owned by an elderly gentleman with zero rust on the frame or body, but lots of sun fading on the interior and body. Ran great but noticed a slight leak at the back of the valve covers. Over time that leak became worse and the oil pan started leaking too, and the exhaust started leaking (aftermarket catalytic converter). I figured it was about time I treated the ol girl to some new gaskets and started collecting parts. We are at 84k now, so decided to get a jump on the timing belt as well.

So initial rehab list was:
- Valve cover gaskets
- oil pan
- timing belt
- water pump
- coolant flush
- transmission fluid change
- aux transmission cooler (since I haul bikes so often, figured good insurance).

Well, sounds like a reasonable list and totally doable in a weekend. If I were a smart man, I would have done that and enjoyed many more miles on the rig. But I’m not a smart man...

This is where the story takes a turn. I happened to be browsing Facebook marketplace and came across a 4runner parts truck about 90 min south with a supercharger. I contact the guy and it turns out it not only has the 2nd gen TRD supercharger, it also has the URD 7th injector system, k&n intake, headers and upgraded valve body.

Once again, a smart man would have glanced at the ad and kept on browsing for things he really needed. But not me. I now HAD to have a supercharger for the rig. I have a reasonably quick and comfortable daily driver and 5 different motorcycles that can fulfill my need for hp and speed, but I’m a glutton for punishment and went to pick up the parts truck.

Fast forward a few weeks and I’ve joined the forum, learned a bunch of stuff about 4runners and invited a bunch of buddies over to help pull the engine because the new plan is:

- Supercharge this 20 yr old 4runner!!

Also:
-URD
- swap valve bodies
- aux transmission cooler
- timing belt
- replace timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets, oil pan, cam seals, rear main seal (maybe), and oil pump.
- bilstein 5100 & tundra 4600
- FJ rear coils
- tundra front brake upgrade
- build a 2.25” stainless exhaust
- a few cosmetic upgrades and restoration (99+ headlights, grill mod, repaint faded fender flares)

Of course nothing goes easy on a 20 yr old truck so this thread will not only document my triumphs but also my failures. I’m still in the middle of it so hopefully there will be a happy ending

Put together a book of the instruction manuals and DIY threads in addition to my Chilton’s

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhodro]

Crew doing more beer drinking than wrenching

Cleaning up the rusty OBX (?) headers

Painted with VHT header paint

Then hit the first big discovery. The timing belt was unbelievably close to snapping. Somehow the tensioner pulley bolt had backed out and the pulley was at an angle cutting through the belt and the front lower cover. This would not have lasted until the 90k mark. Crisis averted

Also hit another snag when doing the front brakes. The asshat who did the last brake install apparently subscribes to the “cross threaded is the best locktite” school of thought and galled up the lower caliper bolt on the passenger side. Thankfully after some cursing and throwing things, I inspected the threads and there’s enough good ones left that I’m going to attempt to run a tap through it and see if I can save it. If not, I’ll swap it with the one from the parts truck.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhodro]

But I did get the bilsteins in and the driver’s side done.

Also dropped the upgraded trans valve body from the parts truck. Was a PITA and started to run out of light, so the swap will happen another day.

That’s all for now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

Looks like a cool project.

I just got done swapping in a new/used motor in my truck. You definitely want to do the rear main while the engine is out. My bad engine was leaking pretty bad out of the cam seals and the rear main. I found the rear main on ebay (OEM) for like 25 bucks, well worth the piece of mind.

Good luck!

 

[gamefreakgc]

TuRDs are the best! Mine has been supercharged for 20 years, so I decided to give it more boost LOL. Great start to your build and you'll love how it drives! With the 7th injector, do yourself a favor and put the 2.2" or 2.1" pulley on it to make the experience even better!

 

[audiness]

It’s not even broken in yet w/ that mileage

 

[Hepar]

Looks like your typical work crew. More drinking than wrenching! You're going to love the SC!

 

[amalik]

You found a unicorn in terms of the mileage being < 100k. I'm not a fan of all the surface rust I'm seeing in the pics, though. I am spoiled by no-rust Colorado though so I'm sorry for that.

In re; to the valve cover gaskets, make sure you research the great write-ups on this subforum, you are going to want to do the half-moons and cam plugs as well.

 

[jhodro]

You found a unicorn in terms of the mileage being < 100k. I'm not a fan of all the surface rust I'm seeing in the pics, though. I am spoiled by no-rust Colorado though so I'm sorry for that.

In re; to the valve cover gaskets, make sure you research the great write-ups on this subforum, you are going to want to do the half-moons and cam plugs as well.

The surface rust is from 2 northeast winters. Salt on the roads is the worst. Was pristine when I first got it. Still way better than most trucks up this way.

Researched the valve cover gaskets already and replacing the half moons, spark plug grommets, and all the small parts as well. Have to get an Isuzu rodeo PCV valve as well.

Just placed an order with my local dealer for the cam seals and a new valve body gasket (as the parts truck valve body gasket was brittle and broken in a few places). Hoping to get the engine together and back in the truck this weekend so I can start working on the exhaust. The parts truck has a rusty hacked together 2-1-2 exhaust, none of which is salvageable. So I’ll be fabbing my own stainless 2.25 downpipes/crossover. I’ve built a few motorcycle exhausts but this will be my first car exhaust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

The surface rust is from 2 northeast winters. Salt on the roads is the worst. Was pristine when I first got it. Still way better than most trucks up this way.

Researched the valve cover gaskets already and replacing the half moons, spark plug grommets, and all the small parts as well. Have to get an Isuzu rodeo PCV valve as well.

Just placed an order with my local dealer for the cam seals and a new valve body gasket (as the parts truck valve body gasket was brittle and broken in a few places). Hoping to get the engine together and back in the truck this weekend so I can start working on the exhaust. The parts truck has a rusty hacked together 2-1-2 exhaust, none of which is salvageable. So I’ll be fabbing my own stainless 2.25 downpipes/crossover. I’ve built a few motorcycle exhausts but this will be my first car exhaust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If there's one thing I WISH I could change, it's the darn downpipe and cat. CARB smog laws say I cannot touch it, even though my header collects into a 2.5" pipe and stock Toyota exhaust piping is roughly 2.4" pipe, my downpipe and cat must forever stay as 2.25". I know there's power to be gained there, every time I've opened up the exhaust or intake there's gains in mileage and the engine doesn't work as hard. I suggest also going to a 2.5" pipe since you also have headers and not an exhaust manifold.

 

[jhodro]

I tow bikes and want torque not just peak hp numbers. My experience is that a good mandrel bent 2.25” exhaust with a high flow cat and good muffler will provide better results than bigger. I thankfully have a tig and a decent 2.25” builder kit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhodro]

got the engine back in place but first replaced timing belt, cam seals, valve cover seals, half moons, spark plug grommets and sealing washers, crank oil seal, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket.

Also welded up some v-band clamps to the headers to prepare for fabricating the intermediary pipe and crossover.

When doing the brakes and front suspension, i noticed the sway bar links and steering rack bushings were perished, so replaced all those. The steering rack was ridiculously easy with the engine removed.

Making progress, but still a long way off.

To do list: supercharger & URD install, rear bilsteins and FJ coils, brake bleed, fluids.

 

[mmartin4]

Awesome write up so far! There are a few of us from the Tri-state area on the forum. These winters wreak havoc on our trucks, but never stops us from fighting back and getting mods done! Lol. Look forward to seeing the finished product.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[jhodro]

Slowly but surely making progress. Work has been kicking my ass with travel, so haven’t had much time to devote to the T4R, but have been slowly chipping away at things. Exhaust is 2/3 done, just have to do some finish welding.

Rather sick of being under the truck, so came back up top, installed the Ford 310cc injectors, wiring adapters, and dropped the supercharger on this afternoon. Sometimes it’s the symbolic parts that make you feel like you’re making progress, ya know?

Placed an order yesterday for a new fuel pump and the unobtanium tapered dynamic tensioner bracket bolt that had to be drilled out on the parts truck. The bolt alone was $30 from URD!!!

Have a few more parts on the way as well: a new front bumper to be painted body color and a cheap double din head unit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhodro]

some updates. Truck has been up and running for a while and I've taken it out wheeling in Rausch Creek a few times. It's running great but have dealt with a few other issues which have cropped up. Passenger LBJ was clunking, so I ordered some new OEM tacoma upper and lower ball joints as well as OEM tie rod ends. Figured I might as well take care of all 4 and avoid issues on the trail. Looking back, i should have done the ITRE as well but taking care of those shortly as well.

Slapped some BF Goodrich mud terrains on as well from a buddy who was upgrading his Rubicon. Made a huge difference over my previous all terrains.

Still not the prettiest girl on the block, but have my eye on a sport hood somewhat nearby.

Also, a better shot of the finished engine bay

 

[eddielasvegas]

What did you pay for the TRD S/C and related parts?

I'm jonesin' for one bad and found one, but no idea what is a fair price.

Thanks,

Eddie

 

[jhodro]

What did you pay for the TRD S/C and related parts?

I'm jonesin' for one bad and found one, but no idea what is a fair price.

Thanks,

Eddie

when it was all said and done, i have about $2500 into the SC and parts. Got the supercharger and URD system used for $1500 but, although it was low miles, it had been sitting for a while unused. So I got the injectors rebuilt, new plugs, dynamic tensioner, belts, and a new fuel pump from URD.

Headers were included in that, but i did fabricate the Y pipe myself and have about $200-250 in the cost of materials and a high flow cat.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Thanks jhodro. Good info.


Eddie

when it was all said and done, i have about $2500 into the SC and parts. Got the supercharger and URD system used for $1500 but, although it was low miles, it had been sitting for a while unused. So I got the injectors rebuilt, new plugs, dynamic tensioner, belts, and a new fuel pump from URD.

Headers were included in that, but i did fabricate the Y pipe myself and have about $200-250 in the cost of materials and a high flow cat.

 

[Silver Supra]

What did you pay for the TRD S/C and related parts?

I'm jonesin' for one bad and found one, but no idea what is a fair price.

Thanks,

Eddie

I'm in the same boat and I think I'm just going to order a new one from URD. I'm tired of waiting and not really interested in buying something that may need work. Compared to supercharging other vehicles, it's pretty reasonable for the T4R.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm in the same boat and I think I'm just going to order a new one from URD. I'm tired of waiting and not really interested in buying something that may need work. Compared to supercharging other vehicles, it's pretty reasonable for the T4R.

For sure. I just checked on prices for a supercharger for the 5th Gen or the URD Whipple supercharger for the 5th Gen, and those go for $5,695 and $6,599, respectively. Could buy an entire 3rd Gen in very nice condition with that sort of money. Ours can be had new in the $2,900 range.

I will say though, it's much cheaper to buy a vehicle with a supercharger already installed (and you can test if it works) than to try and buy and rebuild a used one separately. I paid about a $1000 premium for my 4Runner in California with a S/C already on it, and all I've ever had to do to it was replace the nose cone for $150 since the gears and coupler rattled a bit.