Post your LIFTED pix here!

I found out that my 4Runner's driver side rear shock was leaking and my passenger side front strut was leaking at 40K miles. My driver side front was completely blown but was replaced while it was still under warranty.

Instead of replacing it with OEM parts and suffering potential leaks down the road, I decided to call MetalTech 4X4 and explained the situation. I don't do any hardcore offroading. I take the 4Runner on some difficult terrain in Big Bend National Park but nothing that will raise the hair on the back of your neck (mainly to get to a remote trail head). We decided on the Ironman TOY0BKG (struts, shocks and springs); the cost was a very reasonable $510 (a bargain in my book). Ironman is a Australian company and that make quality susupenion pieces. It system will fit either the FJ or the 4Runner and give it a 2" lift. It's the nitrogas system. The offroad shop said the install was very straight forward with no issues. The alignment came out fine (don't have the final specs on me at the moment). It's just a hair under 38" to the front fender and a hair under 39.5" to the rear fender from the ground.

I put on 1000 miles on the new suspension (all on road) and the ride is stiff but still comfortable (I believe someone on the FJ forum stated that it was 20% stiffer than OEM). The nose dive has improved tremendously and the corning is much sharper (no wallowing) even though the center of gravity is higher. I finally installed my rims (Granite Alloy GA09's) and 265/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Overall I am very pleased with the new look. I lost 1MPG but it's well worth it.

i like that! it looks like a 3" lift even!!
 
Here's my new 4runner

Signature has the details...
 

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Looks beautiful! What wheels and specs are those? Any rubbing?

Thanks...

The wheels are 17x8 -12 (4.5" BS). I ended up with those rather than 17x9 which is what I was after....as a result i need to run a 1" spacer to clear the callipers. Procomp rock crawler.

All kinds of rubbing at first. Body mount chopped and much of the fender liner hacked out and no rubbing lock to lock now.
 
Overall vehicle height for this set up?

Here ya go.:D

I'm a noob so I hope I am doing this right. Trying to figure out the overall height of this set up so I can determine if I can fit it in my garage. Bilstein 5100's at 2.5 with 1.5 rear coils. Tires are 265's. Are UCA's recommended with a set up like this? Thanks for all the great info here.
 
I'm a noob so I hope I am doing this right. Trying to figure out the overall height of this set up so I can determine if I can fit it in my garage. Bilstein 5100's at 2.5 with 1.5 rear coils. Tires are 265's. Are UCA's recommended with a set up like this? Thanks for all the great info here.

Sorry, not sure of the overall height....but I can tell you that UCAs will be recommended by pretty much everyone, but they aren't necessary (I don't have them). Without them, you will only be able to get the caster to around +2 which may make the steering feel a bit lose for you. I wish I had the $400+ for the UCAs myself, but the vehicle does drive nice and safe without them as long as you get a good alignment.
 
I'm a noob so I hope I am doing this right. Trying to figure out the overall height of this set up so I can determine if I can fit it in my garage. Bilstein 5100's at 2.5 with 1.5 rear coils. Tires are 265's. Are UCA's recommended with a set up like this? Thanks for all the great info here.

I am running Bilstein 5100's all corners set to 2.5 front, but used 1.5 spacer in rear (personal preference for comfort - didn't need higher spring rate). I run 265 Duratracs. I don't think UCA's are required for this 2.5 lift by any means (I'm sure plenty of info on this forum), but they are good for alignment options as FatTiresRollin mentioned above. Note: Despite 265 stock size, the Duratrac shoulder blocks rub slightly (full lock, in reverse) on the front wheel well liner - easy fix though. That is factoring in 2.5 lift plus 8" wheel w/ offset pushing wheels about 1.25" outboard.

As for overall height, the above setup + Thule rack bars is enough for me to clear my 7'x16' standard double garage door by 3-4" or so. It is going to be tight when I put my ski rack back on. Keep in mind though my garage door is set where the opener up position holds the door fully above the physical door frame opening. Important because when my power went out and I had to manually operate the door, the door sagged slightly below the opening frame and I "nudged" my ski rack on the garage door... :frusty:

Without them, you will only be able to get the caster to around +2 which may make the steering feel a bit lose for you.

Exactly correct about the +2 max caster ballpark. But I didn't feel steering loose at all - I think +2 is pretty good actually, at least on my truck. Keep in mind going higher on caster is great to fit big tires but higher isn't always better - it actually has affect of high camber gain in turns (wheel leans over as it turns about the axis) which can lead to premature tire shoulder wear. I have had good feel / handling at +2.xx so not pursuing UCAs. Now if I went 3" lift, maybe a different story depending on the alignment numbers.
 
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I've been enjoying everyone else's pictures so much, I thought I'd share a few of my own. Just got her lifted this week. Eliminated all rubbing issues except for a tiny bit on the body mount when in reverse, but that will be taken care of next week when I can get it back in to the shop for a bit of custom work. Very nice setup so far; the stance is so much meaner!
Spec's in sig, enjoy! :)

4runner1.jpg

img2901g.jpg

4runner2.jpg

img2905me.jpg

img2896y.jpg
 
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Ol'B it looks good! How do you like the Mickey Thompson tires? Decent in snow and balance well? Still wish the US got the Canadian SR5 trim package.
 
Vehicle height

I am running Bilstein 5100's all corners set to 2.5 front, but used 1.5 spacer in rear (personal preference for comfort - didn't need higher spring rate). I run 265 Duratracs. I don't think UCA's are required for this 2.5 lift by any means (I'm sure plenty of info on this forum), but they are good for alignment options as FatTiresRollin mentioned above. Note: Despite 265 stock size, the Duratrac shoulder blocks rub slightly (full lock, in reverse) on the front wheel well liner - easy fix though. That is factoring in 2.5 lift plus 8" wheel w/ offset pushing wheels about 1.25" outboard.

As for overall height, the above setup + Thule rack bars is enough for me to clear my 8'x16' standard double garage door by 3-4" or so. It is going to be tight when I put my ski rack back on. Keep in mind though my garage door is set where the opener up position holds the door fully above the physical door frame opening. Important because when my power went out and I had to manually operate the door, the door sagged slightly below the opening frame and I "nudged" my ski rack on the garage door... :frusty:



Exactly correct about the +2 max caster ballpark. But I didn't feel steering loose at all - I think +2 is pretty good actually, at least on my truck. Keep in mind going higher on caster is great to fit big tires but higher isn't always better - it actually has affect of high camber gain in turns (wheel leans over as it turns about the axis) which can lead to premature tire shoulder wear. I have had good feel / handling at +2.xx so not pursuing UCAs. Now if I went 3" lift, maybe a different story depending on the alignment numbers.

Hmmmm. My garage door is only 82", so I foot lower than yours. So if I level the front only on a TE the overall vehicle height should stay the same? I think that would be 1.5" on 5100's.
 
Ol'Baditude - 4Runner looks great! How do you like the MT ATZs? I just received my order for the same tires (285/70/17's) but I have to wait another 4-6 weeks to mount them up - still waiting on my new wheels. How do you like the tires? Some mixed reviews out there on noise level, including some that say they're pretty noisy for an A/T - your thoughts? How about the ride and on road feel?

Most of the reviews I read lauded how well the tires performed offroad, so I'm looking forward to testing them out! They seem pretty mild in pictures, but are very aggressive when you see them in person! I considered BFG ATs, but the MT ATZs win hands down in the looks department.

Thanks!
 
Hmmmm. My garage door is only 82", so I foot lower than yours. So if I level the front only on a TE the overall vehicle height should stay the same? I think that would be 1.5" on 5100's.

Best thing to do is park under the door with highest point (roof rack, or surprisingly - the antenna is a great indicator of clearance) just under the lowest point of your garage door. Measure that gap and compare to the lift setting you want.

Using actual lift value when measuring at the front of roof rack should give you little more buffer than you'll expect (front lift value is at the suspension and body height will decrease in amount gained as you measure rearward - imagine pivot on rear wheels).

You should be fine I think - I mistakenly wrote 8ft door but I *think* I must have a 7ft door based on the common sense measurements I took vs quoted stock height. Stock overall height is spec'ed as 74.2" (~6.2') per online resources. My roof rack adds about 2.5" to Trail Rack = 76.5" at what I assume is rear roof rack point as highest. Add lift around 2" (est because not clear where the stock 74.2 was measured) = ~ 78.5". If I had a 82" door opening like you = I would be about 3.5" clearance which checks out with my actual on-car measurement. I can measure my door exactly tonight to verify this...
BUT ONCE AGAIN, ONLY WAY TO KNOW FOR SURE IS DRIVE UP TO THE DOOR AND MEASURE CURRENT GAP! Buckled concrete, etc etc can all affect your actual clearance.
 

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