Powder_Hound Build Thread

New light bulbs.

This might be the biggest mod of the day! OK...not really a mod just some general lighting maintenance.

12/27/2016
121,982
Replaced low and the original high beam light bulbs with 9005 (high) and 9006 (low) with some Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. As I have reflectors in my 04 and this isn't a daily driver I kept it simple.

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Edit: Added some so so garage images with fogs on for both pics.
Low Beam
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High Beam
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This might be the biggest mod of the day! OK...not really a mod just some general lighting maintenance.

12/27/2016
121,982
Replaced low and the original high beam light bulbs with 9005 (high) and 9006 (low) with some Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. As I have reflectors in my 04 and this isn't a daily driver I kept it simple.
No output shots?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
This might be the biggest mod of the day! OK...not really a mod just some general lighting maintenance.

12/27/2016
121,982
Replaced low and the original high beam light bulbs with 9005 (high) and 9006 (low) with some Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. As I have reflectors in my 04 and this isn't a daily driver I kept it simple.
Those are what I always use. $50 for a 2 pack.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Not a huge mod, but I ordered a CBI 4th gen CB antenna bracket, a Uniden 520 ProxXL CB, and cable today. Looking forward to some pre summer 4x4 / Overlanding adventures this summer.
 
Update from 1 year ago. I installed OME/Toytec 1 year ago and the numbers haven't changed! Sweet...

Original center of axle to bottom of fender and preliminary after
DF - 22" and 23"
PF - 22" and 23"
DR - 22" and 24 1/2"
PR - 23 1/2" and 24 1/2"

1 year later
Center of Axle to Bottom of Fender
DF - 23
PF - 23 1/4
DR - 24 1/2
PR - 24 1/2

So...measuring in "basically" the same place in my garage I have experienced little to no settling with my lift! It's also sitting, looking at and using a level on the running boards, dead nuts level at the running boards.
 
It's CB Time

As I'm getting back into wheeling/overlanding/playing with my T4R, I thought was time for better communication.

It's CB TIME

Uniden ProXL20 CB
Firestick Firefly 3' Antenna
CBI 4th gen antenna bracket.

QnJn74tl.jpg

I'm hoping to install this week.
 

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Well, I got through most of my CB install, but I ran into a couple snags along the way. One of which requires the purchase of a 90 degree stud mount or ring type connection. There isn't enough clearance between the fender and CBI Antenna Mount for a straight stud mount. I also checked the antenna bracket for continuity and got nothing! :redbrick: I am now planning on grinding down the powder coat around bottom of bracket and hoping for good continuity. I DONT want to remove bracket and grind down hinge mounting holes. I might end up with a ground strap if this is the case.

But, here is the progress so far. I'm hoping to find or order a 90 degree stud mount so I can finish the install.

1) Relocate KARR alarm switch and trailer brake

hNjFqT1m.jpg

2) Finalize location and install CB Radio - I was hoping for a quick knurled nut disconnect, but there was metal behind dash that foiled my initial plan. Permanent (sans screwdriver) mount for now. I also painted the CB bracket grey to blend better with dash.

VK7r4Rpm.jpg

3) Install CBI Antenna bracket [MENTION=64712]CBI OffRoad Fab[/MENTION]

This was a bit of a PITA for one person, but I was able to get it done mostly according to CBI instructions. I had to remove an extra bolt by the headlight strap and another fender bolt inside the door jam. It is located behind the plastic cover in the next image. This is an antenna install which has some additional requirements than a ditch light bracket and the instructions were for their ditch light bracket. As AWESOME as their fabrications are I was hopeful CBI's install instructions would be as good as there products. Love the bracket, but VERY disappointed in install instructions.

Also!!! Make sure you dremmel, sand, or file down the powder coat on antenna stud mount hole area as well as the holes around the hinge mounting holes! If you don't you will not be guaranteed of a good ground! I'm learning the hard way and I'm now hoping that grinding down around stud mount hole will be enough and I don't have to remove the bracket to insure a good ground. As a CB noob, I was a little disappointed CBI didn't mention this in their instructions or cover the holes with green poly during the PC process.

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Before the surgery began
eFu6GqLm.jpg
The final CBI install with Antenna
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My clearance issue...this would have also been nice for CBI to mention so I could have ordered the right stud mount (90 degree heavy duty) or a different coax cable with a ring connector.

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4) Install antenna
5) Connect power and ground
 

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Hmmmm....loving my new suspension especially when I have 100 lbs gear or passengers. However, I am getting a weird "clunk" in the front end when it drops off a curb or going over a speed bump. I'm thinking it could time to upgrade/replace the sway bar bushings. For <$15 bucks I think this is a great place to start (a quick grab and tug of the sway bar produced a slight "pop"). It didn't make the noise prior to suspension swap, but when looking around for "clunk" posts the sway bar bushings looked to be a common culprit.

Eventually I'm looking at adding LR (SPA) or Total Chaos UCA's, however, that's not in the budget for now.

If anyone has any other thoughts on front end suspension clunk please share them.

I spent waay too much money replacing parts, trying to fix a clunk in my Subaru WRX. My advise is test everything before buying parts. IE: disconnect the sway bar on that side and see if the clunk goes away.
 
I spent waay too much money replacing parts, trying to fix a clunk in my Subaru WRX. My advise is test everything before buying parts. IE: disconnect the sway bar on that side and see if the clunk goes away.

It ended up being a loose sway bar bolt. I double checked all bolts a week or so after install and found the front left bracket was loose. Torqued and voila, no more clunk.
 
These look nice, also bolt on.

Bolt on and top tread plates were 2 important criteria were important factors in my decisio. The fact that I can pick them up in FC to avoid shipping, they will be powder coated, and a GB 15% discount sealed the deal! Now I wait....
 
Tire selection

Well, I suppose it's time to start thinking about tires. My 265/70/17 Hankook Dynapro ATM's were installed 12/2011 and they are at about 6/32 and have nearly 40,000 miles on them. They'll be good for a little longer, but I'm trying to wrap my head around tires.

I can't fit a 33", 285/70/17, or 255/80/17 in the spare so I'm wanting to go with 32's so I can carry a full size spare. My dilemma is I dont think I want to run an Eload sidewall which is the only BFGATKO2 offered in the 275/70/17. I do some moderate off-roading (5-6+) on the trail damage scale, I tow a 5000 lb travel trailer 6-10 times a year, and I spend the rest of the time primarily on the highway.

What tire would you buy
275/70/17 (32x10.7)
E-rated BFGATKO2
Cooper Discoverer AT/3 C or E-rated

255/75/17 (32x10)
Duratrac C-Rated
BFG ATKO2 C-Rated

265/70/17 (31.6x10.4)
Duratrac C-rated
BFGATKO2 C-Rated
 
(31.6x10.4)
BFGATKO2 C-Rated

I have E load exo grapplers now and considered E load duratracs at that time of purchase but next round I'll be going with C load KO2's.

The exo grapplers are tough tires but heavy and not offered in C load.
The duratracs get loud with miles and numerous people with sidewall issues, both E and C load.
The KO2 is a proven tire and a great balance for the do-all vehicle like you described above, C load to save rolling all that extra mass.
 
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My sliders arrived!!!
 

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Maintenance

6/6/2017
126,178

Oil change, rotate and balance tires. All were at 6/32.

Nothing fancy, but keeping her running and prepped for a trip to Jackson WY.
 
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