Power Locks?

[ambush]

[MENTION=11611]ambush[/MENTION]

I am in Columbia, SC! And I would love a recommendation for a price quote but like most stuff on my 4runner I will probably end doing it.

My question is if you are having this ECU problem, instead of dishing out money to just repairing the issue, could I be dishing out money to an upgrade that also restores the function of my power locks?

[MENTION=132694]SCHUNTER1969[/MENTION]:

Yes I work part time with my good friend at Custom Kreations on 2notch road (behind Dunkin Donuts headed toward Spring Valley). We install everything and can recommend anything to suit your needs.

If you are having the locking issues, you will still have it regardless of an aftermarket was installed. The junction box replacement will resolve the lock/unlock issues. After that I would recommend installing an aftermarket. Why? Better range and expandability later on.

Just let me know what help you need.

Thanks

Ambush

 

[alumarine]

If you have a 3rd Gen 99-2002, you will have to purchase a programmed immobilizer bypass as the key cylinder has to know your keys.

I installed a remote start with keyless entry in my 2000 and it didn't need an immobilizer.
My key doesn't have a chip in it.

 

[Standard4R]

The terminals are 11 and 12. Term 11 should be grounded when the switch is moved to "LOCK", Term 12 should be grounded when the switch is moved to "UNLOCK". If both of those are true, then the Body ECU is bad. If they aren't, let me know and we'll dig deeper!

:hungry:

[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]

Do you still have a pin diagram for the BCU? The link is no longer working. I would much rather test my current BCU before dropping some $$ on a new one for no reason.

 

[IBallEngineer]

[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]

Do you still have a pin diagram for the BCU? The link is no longer working. I would much rather test my current BCU before dropping some $$ on a new one for no reason.

I do not have it in PDF format, I have a printed copy I can scan and send you. The link is available, I haven't cataloged it yet, but I know others are using it. I've been distracted by life lately. PM me if you want me to scan it.

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]

Do you still have a pin diagram for the BCU? The link is no longer working. I would much rather test my current BCU before dropping some $$ on a new one for no reason.

What year?

 

[Standard4R]

Mine's a 2000. From other posts i've read this appears to be a water related issue as the problem usually occurs during or after a rain. I now leaning towards the wiring in the driver door panel or the BCU being the culprit as the rear door wiring/ecu seemed fine.

To recap - My symptoms started as my locks repeatedly locking and unlocking as well as my rear window rolling down randomly. The next day (Sunny and dry) no more "possessed" locks but every time I try to lock the doors they automatically unlock. Doesn't matter if I use the key fob or the door switch. My work around has been to unplug the rear ECU which allows me to do everything except use my key fob or roll down my back window but at least I can lock my doors.

 

[blackrunner17]

Same Issue

Hey all,

I've had the same issue for a while now, and just haven't had the chance to dive into the full repair just yet... However, I did want to throw out one (very temporary, in my experience) solution to this issue.

When I first encountered the issue, I realized that the 4Runner ('99 Limited) was basically following its security protocol, and long story short the lock button would immediately UNlock everything because it was registering a door not fully closed. the passenger side front door sensor was almost completely disintegrated... Solution? Tape the "sensor" all the way shut so that the computer would register all of the doors as closed, and the auto-locks started working again perfectly.

About a year-ish later, none of them work again but I can hear the fusebox "clicking" and I realize the problem lies in what has already been outlined here, but this at least solved the problem for a little while...

Hope this helps someone for the short term at least!

 

[yotagirl2]

different lock problem

I have a 99 runner. Today I went out to put my OBD scanner on to check O2 sensors. I unlocked the door, with my left hand on the handle, I opened the door and threw my keys in the seat then closed the door. All doors were unlocked and I only had a hand on the exterior handle. I come back out in 10 min and all the doors are locked. Had to call AAA to unlock my doors. Yup, feeling like a winner LOL So I immediately closed the doors, hit lock, and all the doors lock. I hit unlock and all the locks unlock. I stand there with the doors open and the doors just lock. Now I am confused, auto lock shouldn't lock with the door open (driver's side door btw). I unlock the doors again, all unlock, I get in, sit down, keys in my lap, phone stop watch on, and after 29.5 seconds the doors lock back. After I got the OBD info I wanted I got out, locked the doors, unlocked them, opened the door again, and after about 29 seconds it locks the doors again.

What in the world is making her lock the doors back? Like she doesn't know I have the door open? I cannot find a thing about it anywhere. There is plenty of my doors won't lock or unlock but nothing about them just locking back after 29 seconds with the door open. Now I wanna know if it will lock with the keys in the ignition. Let me go check.

I need your guys expertise, I am at a lose here.

 

[yotagirl2]

Ok, so when I unlocked the doors, got in the truck, put keys in the ignition it would not lock. I got out locked, unlocked, opened the door, and sure enough it locked back with the door opened. So I took the remote apart, pressed unlock, opened the door, closed the door, and took the battery out of my remote and it locked again. So it locked when the battery was out of the remote. Was hoping it was the remote. Any suggestions?

 

[yotagirl2]

possible solution

I went back out to check the other doors. Every time I unlocked the doors and opened any of the other doors and hatch it would not lock back. It only locks again with the driver's side door. With the driver's side door open I wiggled the door switch. Guess what, the interior light flickers when moved side to side. So I am thinking the door switch is not acknowledging the door being opened when I open it? Now to find that switch to replace it.

Any thoughts?

 

[yotagirl2]

I think I found the answer, door jam switch or courtesy switch, 84231-32040

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...esy-door-jamb-switch-fix-door-ajar-light.html

$14.47 and $8 shipping on McGeorge online parts or $37 and some change from the stealership. Neither are available at this moment, McGeorge will be shipped and stealership has to order it.

I will post if the switch fixes the problem or not. Just in case someone else has that same problem.

Thanks to Andrewbares for his awesome write up to remove and install!!

 

[nchacon1984]

maybe this will help.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-i-need-some-help-electrical.html#post2721149

got two from the junk yard and going to see if that fixes it for me.

 

[yotagirl2]

maybe this will help.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-i-need-some-help-electrical.html#post2721149

got two from the junk yard and going to see if that fixes it for me.

Thanks, I'll check it out

 

[bwv7131]

Power Locks not working completely

I just bought my 1998 4Runner SR5 5speed the other day and noticed the power locks don't work. The lock/unlock button on driver and passenger door don't work, they don't even make a noise like they wanna work. When I try to lock or unlock the doors from the outside using my key, it will only lock or unlock only that door and not all of them like my 97 4runner does if turned to either side twice. No key fobs came with either.

Can anyone guide me to what might be the issue?

 

[Lastplace]

My 2000 would unlock all by it’s self while parked. Sometimes while driving the truck would lock and unlock. Tried the fuse box change, no help. Turned out the be a short in the driver’s side door lock. Replacing the lock would require another key so I just disconnected the wire. Driver side lock works but will not unlock all the other doors. You have to push the button on the door panel.

 

[MuteJosh]

Fuse Box Replacement

Sorry to bring up an old thread but my 57k milage 4runner had this happen. Dealer wanted 500 for a new bcu and was trying to tell me it wasn't the BCU and were all for door lock mechanisms.... told me not to trust the Internet lol. Anyway I found this part on partshotline.com....I ordered two from two separate salvage yards. The first one that came in was installed and works 100 percent!

See attached image... faulty bcu on left, replacement on right (top covers are off to show the circuit board)

Having the same issue, door locks won't work. They try, but it seems to lose power and just quits. Checked on partshotline.com and looks like there are plenty of them in my area. Only thing, there are two different types: one with daytime running lights and one without. How do I know if I have daytime running lights?

 

[Endlessblockades]

My locks just went haywire. This is an older thread but covers similar symptoms. I don't see many recent threads on this issue at first glance. Any other sufferers of the locking/unlocking gremlins lately? I understand that the driver door lock has a major effect on the other locks doing their thing when actuated by the fob and interior panel button. Before I look into the fuse blocks I am going to look for a short in the driver's door, as the window has been a bit 'off-track' and the door panel has been seated in a less-than firm manner for a while. Currently, the fob sometimes locks the 3 non-driver's door but never the driver's. Another thing I've noticed is that I can't lock the driver door with the key in the lock cylinder - it won't turn that way anymore. Last thing I need is a truck I can't lock or get into or start when miles off the grid in the desert. I often park and hike a few miles prospecting for minerals, etc. I haven't made a comprehensive list of what does and doesn't work - just throwing this out into the 3rd Gen universe.....

 

[Skulking]

My locks just went haywire. This is an older thread but covers similar symptoms. I don't see many recent threads on this issue at first glance. Any other sufferers of the locking/unlocking gremlins lately? I understand that the driver door lock has a major effect on the other locks doing their thing when actuated by the fob and interior panel button. Before I look into the fuse blocks I am going to look for a short in the driver's door, as the window has been a bit 'off-track' and the door panel has been seated in a less-than firm manner for a while. Currently, the fob sometimes locks the 3 non-driver's door but never the driver's. Another thing I've noticed is that I can't lock the driver door with the key in the lock cylinder - it won't turn that way anymore. Last thing I need is a truck I can't lock or get into or start when miles off the grid in the desert. I often park and hike a few miles prospecting for minerals, etc. I haven't made a comprehensive list of what does and doesn't work - just throwing this out into the 3rd Gen universe.....

Does the lock button on the drivers door behave the same as the fob? Do you notice any difference in how it feels to pull up and push down the lock between the drivers side and passengers side?

 

[brillo_76]

Graphite your cylinder lock in the drivers door. The key should work smoothly. My guess is that cylinder lock has too much resistance on it causing your issue.

Then do all the other key cylinders too. As they need lubricated as well..

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Deej101]

My locks just went haywire. This is an older thread but covers similar symptoms. I don't see many recent threads on this issue at first glance. Any other sufferers of the locking/unlocking gremlins lately? I understand that the driver door lock has a major effect on the other locks doing their thing when actuated by the fob and interior panel button. Before I look into the fuse blocks I am going to look for a short in the driver's door, as the window has been a bit 'off-track' and the door panel has been seated in a less-than firm manner for a while. Currently, the fob sometimes locks the 3 non-driver's door but never the driver's. Another thing I've noticed is that I can't lock the driver door with the key in the lock cylinder - it won't turn that way anymore. Last thing I need is a truck I can't lock or get into or start when miles off the grid in the desert. I often park and hike a few miles prospecting for minerals, etc. I haven't made a comprehensive list of what does and doesn't work - just throwing this out into the 3rd Gen universe.....

Bumping this older thread for the same reason. Having the same issue as many others in this thread. So far, there is no agreement on the culprit, if indeed there is one overarching one. So many threads spread all over this forum about this issue, it's hard to keep track of which I've seen or haven't.

Is it better to revive old threads or start new ones? I think it's better to stick with older threads that explore the same issue.

My issue (2001 SR5) began as wonky security alarm going off randomly. Did much work tracking that down, culminating in removing that system. Then, yesterday, after disassembling the driver door panel and innards, looking for any evidence of wiring problems (and then pulled out window regulator for an inspection/cleaning/lube because why not), well, upon reassembly, as soon as I reconnected the door lock connector (not the connector to the control panel, the 3-pin lock connector), my door locks started going wild!

And then, an ahah! moment. Was all that trouble with the alarm going off randomly due to this?? I had, previously, long ago, stopped using the key fob, just in case it was faulty and sending weird triggers to the system; and just yesterday had disassembled and thoroughly cleaned it and had not yet reassembled it, so no way was the remote involved.

I was zeroing in on the culprit. But it was late and dark and it would have to wait. So, today I will begin looking at the driver door lock, to see if I can further isolate iit. Is it the lock itself? Actuator? Connector? Wiring? Ground? Fuse block? That's all I can think of, and if anyone can advise on the steps to discrminate which, please weigh in.

Over the past few years, the number of things I've removed from this car while tracking this down... first, just disconnecting the alarm horn. Then the whole audio system (because it was a wiring mess that was confusing the situation for me). Then stopped using the key fob. Then disconnecting the battery *every* night. Then removing the security "brain" modules. Well, at least these can all be easily reversed when I finally track this down!