Power Steering rack replacement.... info needed!

I was in your position. I could not get the lines off and where stripping them. I ended up going and getting line/crow wrech with a 17mm I believe. It was night a day difference and they came right off. Ohh and invest in some gloves also and you will be good. Save you say $160 minus the price of tools and gloves.
 
Well, for some reason the flare nut wrenches did nothing. Actually.... I couldn't even get it to fit on one of the lines because of the bad angle I had.

It's going in to the shop this week, having them install the rack and do the alignment at the same time. Might also need some Tie rods now... because I can't get the castle nuts to tighten without the joint spinning. Not sure what that is all about... FTW!
 
Well, for some reason the flare nut wrenches did nothing. Actually.... I couldn't even get it to fit on one of the lines because of the bad angle I had.

It's going in to the shop this week, having them install the rack and do the alignment at the same time. Might also need some Tie rods now... because I can't get the castle nuts to tighten without the joint spinning. Not sure what that is all about... FTW!

I have replaced the steering rack on my 98 Tacoma 3 times now due to wheeling hard on it ( lifetime rack from Autozone). The flare wrench definitely helps. It also helps to undo the entire rack and pull it towards the back of the vehicle. This allows you to get at the line fittings easier behind the crossmember from the drivers side.

For the outer TRE castle nut spinning issue, try hitting the bottom of the tie rod with a rubber mallet. This will lodge the taper in the spindle enough for you to start tightening the castle nut. Then, as you tighten to spec, it should snug up without spinning.

Hope this helps.
 
I have replaced the steering rack on my 98 Tacoma 3 times now due to wheeling hard on it ( lifetime rack from Autozone). The flare wrench definitely helps. It also helps to undo the entire rack and pull it towards the back of the vehicle. This allows you to get at the line fittings easier behind the crossmember from the drivers side.

For the outer TRE castle nut spinning issue, try hitting the bottom of the tie rod with a rubber mallet. This will lodge the taper in the spindle enough for you to start tightening the castle nut. Then, as you tighten to spec, it should snug up without spinning.

Hope this helps.

I tried all of this.... even used a jack to push the tie rod in place on the steering knuckle, but not dice. I'm driving the truck to a shop tonight, and leaving a note in the window saying that I'm leaving it there to be repaired, because it's not road worthy.

I should have it towed... but can't afford a tow truck. I can't even afford to have it fixed... but need 2 vehicles, because I'm not home all week, and the wife needs wheels.

It's been one thing after another lately.... and just when I'm ahead, and buy something cool for the trucks.... I get blasted with a huge bill for something that NEEDS to be done.... and now I'm stuck paying for everything.

Just wish we could catch a break. Between my house's foundation, and the $20,000 repair bill for that.... the planned reno's for our house, and needed stuff... (deck is rotted.... and the roof needs some new support posts). We're just not catching up with this stuff.

After the Runner gets the new rack, and the TAco has it's tires finally mounted, and balljoint replaced.... I'm gonna be done for mods for quite a while.

Anyway.... enough with the pity train.... lol! This time next week, MeanGreen should be back up to snuff.... and the Taco will be riding on the 33's I bought 3 weeks ago. :D
 
I tried all of this.... even used a jack to push the tie rod in place on the steering knuckle, but not dice. I'm driving the truck to a shop tonight, and leaving a note in the window saying that I'm leaving it there to be repaired, because it's not road worthy.

I should have it towed... but can't afford a tow truck. I can't even afford to have it fixed... but need 2 vehicles, because I'm not home all week, and the wife needs wheels.

It's been one thing after another lately.... and just when I'm ahead, and buy something cool for the trucks.... I get blasted with a huge bill for something that NEEDS to be done.... and now I'm stuck paying for everything.

Just wish we could catch a break. Between my house's foundation, and the $20,000 repair bill for that.... the planned reno's for our house, and needed stuff... (deck is rotted.... and the roof needs some new support posts). We're just not catching up with this stuff.

After the Runner gets the new rack, and the TAco has it's tires finally mounted, and balljoint replaced.... I'm gonna be done for mods for quite a while.

Anyway.... enough with the pity train.... lol! This time next week, MeanGreen should be back up to snuff.... and the Taco will be riding on the 33's I bought 3 weeks ago. :D

Wow, sorry about your luck man. Wish you lived near me. I would love to help you figure this out without having to pay someone to do it.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
Well, for some reason the flare nut wrenches did nothing. Actually.... I couldn't even get it to fit on one of the lines because of the bad angle I had.

It's going in to the shop this week, having them install the rack and do the alignment at the same time. Might also need some Tie rods now... because I can't get the castle nuts to tighten without the joint spinning. Not sure what that is all about... FTW!

I had that happen when I replaced the bushings... I have a electric impact driver from Canadian Tire ($49 one of their package sales), I hit the castle nut with that and it sucked right up! I also used the impact driver to tighten the rack.... come to think of it, I've used it a lot!
 
Got the rack installed on my 4Runner..... OOPS! Wrong pic! ;)
 

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Here we go.... this is the one I meant to put up.... ;) Cost me $350.00 to have the shop install it. Took 2 guys, 5.5hrs to do it.... because they couldn't get the hoses off the original either.. :p

While it was there.... it attracted the interest of a passer by... and the guy gave my wife his business card. He told her that my truck was his "dream truck" and if I ever decide to sell it... to call him! lol!

He then told her that I have really taken good care of it.... and my wife being the joker she is.... told him.. I take better care of the truck, than I do her! lol! ;)
 

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Did they tell ya how they got it off? I would have suggested taking heat (think oxy/ace) to the flanges in the old rack but careful not to get too crazy.

Steering must be a night and day difference now.

I don't know how Mrs. Fightman puts up with you.
 
Did they tell ya how they got it off? I would have suggested taking heat (think oxy/ace) to the flanges in the old rack but careful not to get too crazy.

Steering must be a night and day difference now.

I don't know how Mrs. Fightman puts up with you.

I haven't driven it yet.... as I was away at work all week, while Mrs. Fightman (aka Julie) was dealing with the shop for me. She tells me it rides great now... but I still need to get an alignment done on it... which is scheduled for Monday. (again... while I'm gone to work... :( )

AS far as putting up with me.... she only has to put up with me on my days off.... so... I guess that's why it works! ;) lol!
 
When removing the old rack do you need to remove the OTRE's from the lower ball joint or can you just unscrew the OTRE from the ITRE? Just wondering if I need to rent a press to remove the OTRE. Also what size wrench is needed for the power steering lines?
 
You can knock the outer tie rod ends out of the lower balljoints with a rubber mallet, or a hammer (be sure to keep the castle nut on at the top of the threads, to protect the them if you use a regular hammer).

The power steering lines require a 17mm wrench.... a flare nut wrench is best.... mine were on pretty tight though.... and I couldn't get them off.

If it weren't for the lines, the job was almost completely done. WHat I've learned from this.... price out what it costs for replacement lines. If it's cheaper than say $300.00 to pay labor for someone to do it.... than I would just cut the hoses, pull out the rack, and work on those lines on a work bench. I think they would be totally doable if you had it out of the truck.

Good luck with your repair.... post up how it goes for us! :)
 
You can knock the outer tie rod ends out of the lower balljoints with a rubber mallet, or a hammer (be sure to keep the castle nut on at the top of the threads, to protect the them if you use a regular hammer).

The power steering lines require a 17mm wrench.... a flare nut wrench is best.... mine were on pretty tight though.... and I couldn't get them off.

If it weren't for the lines, the job was almost completely done. WHat I've learned from this.... price out what it costs for replacement lines. If it's cheaper than say $300.00 to pay labor for someone to do it.... than I would just cut the hoses, pull out the rack, and work on those lines on a work bench. I think they would be totally doable if you had it out of the truck.

Good luck with your repair.... post up how it goes for us! :)

I am wondering if your corrosion made the lines seize in there. I have not had any issues removing the lines from mine each time. Defitely a bit of a pain to get to, but once you get the 17mm flare wrench on there, they loosened right up.
[MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] It makes things a lot easier to remove the outer TRE at the knuckle rather than trying to thread it off of the inner TRE while it is still connected. I use a tie rod/ball joint puller tool to separate the outer TRE. It works very nicely and a decent one only runs about $20. Don't cheap out on this tool. I have broken a cheap Harbor Freight one, so you will quickly be going to buy a nice one anyway.

Good luck!
 
You can knock the outer tie rod ends out of the lower balljoints with a rubber mallet, or a hammer (be sure to keep the castle nut on at the top of the threads, to protect the them if you use a regular hammer).

The power steering lines require a 17mm wrench.... a flare nut wrench is best.... mine were on pretty tight though.... and I couldn't get them off.

If it weren't for the lines, the job was almost completely done. WHat I've learned from this.... price out what it costs for replacement lines. If it's cheaper than say $300.00 to pay labor for someone to do it.... than I would just cut the hoses, pull out the rack, and work on those lines on a work bench. I think they would be totally doable if you had it out of the truck.

Good luck with your repair.... post up how it goes for us! :)

I am wondering if your corrosion made the lines seize in there. I have not had any issues removing the lines from mine each time. Defitely a bit of a pain to get to, but once you get the 17mm flare wrench on there, they loosened right up.

[MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] It makes things a lot easier to remove the outer TRE at the knuckle rather than trying to thread it off of the inner TRE while it is still connected. I use a tie rod/ball joint puller tool to separate the outer TRE. It works very nicely and a decent one only runs about $20. Don't cheap out on this tool. I have broken a cheap Harbor Freight one, so you will quickly be going to buy a nice one anyway.

Good luck!


Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up getting it done this last weekend and it went pretty smooth. I had replaced my tie rods and LBJ's recently so the OTE popped right our when hit with a rubber mallet. My lines came off really easy with a standard 17 mm (I love my Cali weather) and the other bolts were easy enough. I ended up using a OEM rack I got for free from a Tacoma guy to see if it was my problem before throwing down several hundred on a new rack. Ended up tightening up my steering and my vibrations are gone in the front after dealing with it for over a year. I actually like driving my 4runner on the freeway again and won't hesitate to take it on a road trip again. Thanks for the help and info!
 
Any 2023 updates on aftermarket brands for the steering rack?

OEM still not worth the price?

Considering OEM inner tie rods are by far the best it makes more sense just to do OEM. I only paid 50 bucks more for the whole rack vs just getting ITREs and I'm pretty sure it was a wise choice as the rack was likely a reman (it was very clean but the ITREs were already clapped leading me to think it wasn't OEM). Bonus is I got the new style of that thing in the rack that tensions everything (forget what that silly part is called ><). Also put poly bushings on before I installed it.
 

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