Project NoRunner: 2000 SR5 4x2 Resto

[STI_MECE]

Okay, so here we go with a weekly update. Got to get a closer look at the 4runner this weekend for about 30 minutes before i had to leave for work....

Feast your eyes on this thing called suspension:cry2: It legit brings tears to my eyes but anyone can fix....

crappy shock

poor upper

is this a coil spacer?

rear driver side, missing some type of bump stop not sure exactly what to call it

looks like an oil cooler leak....noticed the sheared bolt on the oil pan :frusty:

engine bay, need to replace the intake duct around TB, its got a crack

]

On order::

• Toytec/Eibach 3" lift kit
• SPC UCA's
• Intake duct for throttle body
• Oil cooler O-rings, and new hoses with clamps
• Toyota LBJ
• Body mount bolts with washers

Waiting in Garage:

• Denso Spark Plugs
• OEM wireset
• Toyota Antifreeze
• Toyota ATF
• Castrol High Mileage 5w-30
• Toyota Oil Filter

Still need to buy

• coolant hoses
• PCV valve
• spare tire
• toyota jack
• steering wheel

currently fighting

• getting the evaporator and catalyst system ready. got the drive cycles
• spongy brakes, records show that brake booster was replaced....so maybe air in brakes will need to bleed, waiting on Motiv adapter
• ABS light on, PO idiotic self most likely stretched the ABS line and ripped a wire inside the sheath

To do list this weekend

• 
  Drive truck around and get it to pass emissions to get inspection and registration done
• Remove body lift, prep for Toytec lift.

 

[STI_MECE]

I think I will have to buy the full cushion assemblies with the bolts to get the body lift out....Would like to pull this stuff from a junkyard but man I can only imagine how agonizing that would be in this texas heat....

I would reckon the PO discarded some of the cushions and tubes.

right now just for the bolts and washers its sitting at 130 not including shipping.

EDIT: adding this link for future reference. People who need to determine the stock (factory) body mount bolt lengths

Body Lift Block ID/Bolt length- Steering Shaft bolt length

 

[STI_MECE]

slowly bringing the 4runner back to life

Got to tear into the 4runner a bit more....worst news of all is that cylinder 1 had a spark plug that was stuck and someone must have messed up the threads....because now there is a spark plug thread repair insert around the plug.

so i had to carefully unscrew that insert to get it off for the Denso. I am going to start looking for a set of decent heads. Just going to prepare myself for a head rebuild down the road. Either A, the plug will blow out or B nothing will happen and I can going about my day but that crap is going to bug me anyways and ill rip it out and put back the way it should be.

Got my Eibach suspension in from Toytec, with the SPC UCAs. got OEM LBJ's coolany etc. Put an airraid on too, but i left it loosely fitted i think this stupid body lift is hampering its fitment

Next week will be an all out sprint to remove body lift and install suspension components. on to the pictures.

I also think my rear cylinder driver side drum is leaking....spongy breaks...and damp looking area around the brake line. so looks like i will be dooing this eventually. but im going to tackle the timing belt job first.

Bull crap spark plug with bull crap thread isnsert....luckily the mechanic learned their lesson on cylinder 1...idiots.

My second project making a cameo...'92 vert 21k miles on it, 1 owner, rebuilding the heads

Got to do alittle house keeping...going to need to clean the carpet....need a hot water extractor

Engine bayz

and all the goodies i get to stare at until next weekend:reddance:

 

[T4R2014]

Seems like it was owned by some stupid high school kid tbh. Spacer lift and E3 spark plugs say it all. "I watch Powerblock TV"

The grey leather interior is pretty cool though.

 

[STI_MECE]

Seems like it was owned by some stupid high school kid tbh. Spacer lift and E3 spark plugs say it all. "I watch Powerblock TV"

The grey leather interior is pretty cool though.

Well you know what....the PO never did any of the work....it was all done by Firestone. I can't blame the PO ignorance is bliss.

But here is the thing, I have receipt the PO gave me about Firestone replacing the spark plugs. And he doesn't know if they did that or not. But my gut tells me they did. Possibly. But there is no definite way to prove it. Other than the fact their have crappy mechanics because I also have a receipt where they replaced the rear brake cylinders and one of them is already leaking again. They "rebuilt" the rear drums with Vatozone parts.

Even if I could prove Firestone did it, I'm not sure what the compensation process would entail. But I don't even think my time is worth venturing down that road. I'll keep a keen eye out for a spare clean motor and swap it completely.

I'm gunna get to the top of this hill eventually lol so rebuilding the rear brakes is most likely what is attributing to my spongy brake's. So that will now be added onto the list of stuff to do along with the timing belt.

Suspension will be this weekend.... hopefully I can get it all done in eight hours in Texas heat.

Plan is to remove the body lift first, install the energy suspension body mount bushings as the stock ones are shot, I managed to scoop up the OEM bolts,nuts washers for that too.

Then I'll do my suspension. Gunna track down where the the ABS line is cut as well ...the light is on in dash which means it was probably ripped somewhere.

 

[STI_MECE]

And this is what Bordem looks like folks. I'm on a project for work, and will be away from home for over a year. Have enough time to get home on weekends for a few more months before it's 24/7.

I put together my energy bushings and tied them together with fishing line so when I start removing the lift Friday night I don't have to screw around with sorting them lol the fishing line holds it together and the washer stack is what is considering the bottom.

After I get this suspension taken care of I'll drive it to my project and start going HAM on it in the parking lot... Lol

Plan is to do the timing belt there, cam shaft seals etc. Maybe valve cover for shiggles (but if it ain't broke don't fox it)

I guess I should be happy considering I at least ha e the option to bring my vehicle down here.

 

[MattJakobs]

I see LBJs are included in your parts on order. Make sure to get new flange bolts with them.

 

[STI_MECE]

I see LBJs are included in your parts on order. Make sure to get new flange bolts with them.

Yep i forgot about them, and remembered earlier this week...i had to have them overnighted lol 44 dollars oh well. live and learn:frusty:

 

[STI_MECE]

Well after 12 hours of work I managed to only get the front shocks in with the SPC UCA.

WHAT A FAIL. First side took me like 6 hour's....then the next side I was burning rubber until I met a ball joint that was able to withstand a 2000 ft lb impact gun, and breaker bars....and cheater pipes.... I've never met a ball joint so unbelievably stubborn.

So after about 4 hours dicking with it I went postal on it with my sledge hammer. And my hammer won

But I was putting in the steering knuckle thing that SPC provides and I didn't need a press to push it in, in fact I had to hold it while I got the snap ring on....

It mentioned about them not being tight....but what is not being tight? Like how loose is lose. The was zero slop in the knuckle it was just wide enough to take it and not walk around.

So am I good? My head tells me I am, especially after tightening everything down.

Can anyone chime in ?

 

[STI_MECE]

Just a heads up for anyone SPC makes steering knuckle inserts that are designed to go into worn out steering knuckles or aftermarket ones.

I'm gunna go with that. And I may disconnect my front sway bar.

 

[STI_MECE]

Man what a weekend....still got one more day of wrench time. Took Monday off to account for all the screw ups for this weekend.

I got the suspension lift on First.....and forgetting about what I initially thought of was that removing the body lift first then installing the suspension I wouldn't be where I'm at not

Jack isn't tall enough to lift body off frame so I gotta grab more wood. Even with 2 2x4s I'm 2.5 inches short. I'll grab a 6x6 and call it good.

But the bolts for the body lift are loosened up and ready to go ....

I'm going to drop the energy suspension stuff on. I can not for the life of me get this damn brackets off spots 2 and 5. Either I'm rounding the top bolt off or it just won't come out. My 14mm slips and my 13 doesn't freaking fit.

Had to order oversized knuckle inserts from toytec. And going to need to get a better lower ball joint separator because I can't get it to separate from the lower control arm.

So much stuff to replace so little time

 

[STI_MECE]

Welp it's done. I was able to start the engine back up after removing the airraid intake tube. Just an fyi to anyone with a 2inch body lift, that thing will not fit properly with the body lift installed.

And the PO changed the damn coil packs so o bought brand spanking new ones. This thing better breathe fire after I get the engine in working order.

I also replaced my PCV valve and the grommet. I knew that grommet was going to fall apart and it did but it only took me a minute to get it out.

Right now my idle fluctuation is gone. It was always bouncing up between 650-500. Now its steady but it's dropping. The idle was up around 700, then slowly began to drop over a couple of minutes. Basically the more it warmed up the lower it went until it steadied out.

Going to start with coil packs....that one hurt a bit since no idiot in their right mind should have changed it anyways.

If that doesn't fix the idle, I'm going to change the O2 sensors. They welded in a cat so I can only imagine they used piss pore O2 sensors.

By God I will bring this 4rummer back to life and running like it should if it's the last thing I do!

I always might have fixed my smooshy brakes. Turns out drive side rear drums axle brake line was not tightened into the cylinder. I'll bleed before I go.

Waiting on the biggeer knuckle inserts and replacing ball joints before I go off and drive it.

It will be another two weeks before I get back to it. Also got an SRQ Adjustable panhard bar.

Probably going to remove the front sway bar and I need to rebuild the endlinks on the rear they are trashed.

 

[STI_MECE]

Picture time....shield your eyes. The crap done by PO is down right disgusting. absolutely insane. It took me a full 24 hours of pure wrenching time stretched out over 3 days to get all of it done.

The items I was able to replace are:

Removed

• 
  Shocks and springs on front and rear
• 2inch crappy body lift
• OEM bushings
• Vatozone PCV valve and worn OEM grommet

Installed

• 
  Toytec Eibach Suspension Kit on front and rear
• SPC UCA's
• Energy suspension poly bushings
• Airraid intake tube
• OEM PCV grommet
• OEM PCV Valve

Shout out to [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] for supplying the OEM bolts for the body mounts.

Couldn't replcae the LBJs as i was unable to free the lower ball joint from the LCA. I could have gotten it out but needed two more hands which was available so i moved on.

Would like to see if anyone knows if i can remove the spacers from the front...its 2" inches in front, and 1.25 in back.

Here is the stock setup. pretty terrifying huh? The sway bar end links were attached but i removed the end links first.

Be sure to check your jack can go high enough or else you gotta do this. lol worked like a charm though.

Before:

After:

Had to leave her with front bumper off ran out of time.

 

[STI_MECE]

09/03/19 Update

Got another big week coming up.

Ordered rebuilt steering knuckles, bigger SPC steering knuckles incase the used ones are stretched out too.

Did not get to go home this weekend, but I made sure it was productive to say the least. I went to the junk-yard for the first time in a good awhile. Its alot more fun when your going to the junk-yard because you want to and not because you need to.

so for a whopping 100 bucks i got all the below items.

You might ask why I need those seats....but oddly enough my 2000 4runner does not have those little slots for the headrests.

Before

I think they were 20 bucks for both. However, I cleaned them with too much vigour and left one spot dead. I must have rubbed the dye off the seat but it still looks good ill keep it. Worst case ill swap the covers.
AFTER:

Got some skid plates, hopefully these will work on mine. One came off a 2002 and another maybe around 2000, all 4runners i had to pick from were auto and 2x4. (probably smartest decision i made about this thing)

For all you oil sludge lovers:
Before:

I have detailed cars for 10 plus years, and I am also cheap. Since I wasnt home I had to go to walmart and got the cheapest brush and degreaser and man in was painfully slow to remove. If anyone ever needs to get grease off, Borhs hair brush is recommended. you want stiff bristles.

I will spray these with epoxy once they are a bit cleaner.
After:

Also bought a rear panel section, because mine is cracked and i thought what the hell. lol prices are so cheap. and since this is a restoration, no stone will go unturned. I also am pulling off as many fasteners as i can.

oh yeah, i also bought a HF 20 ton press. lol I am going to buy a second set of axles and steering knuckles and rebuild those in time.

Will also go back to junkyard when ever it gets cooler and remove the right head. Since cylinder 1 has beeen retapped by POS i am going to prep it for being dropped in.

 

[STI_MECE]

Man it's always something.....was rebuilding my used steering knuckles and was putting the snap rings for the SPC knuckle inserts and one of the snap rings appears to be deformed?

I had it opened up and was putting it around the insert dropped it on, and well....it didn't snap back to it's normal shape.

My hail Mary is using one of the snap rings on the other knuckles.

I have no choice but to rig something up....going to email SPC for a replacement ring. Does anyone know the size by chance? I'll measure it ...I doubt I will be able to find this size anywhere for back up.

But if anyone can give me the size that would be greatly appreciated! I can start making calls asking around for it instead making 2 hours frive!

I really hope someone can come in clutch here.

 

[Crowcifier6]

McMaster Carr has about any piece of hardware you could ever imagine....they ship fast too.

 

[STI_MECE]

Thanks crow.

I found some snap rings, OEM ones lol I had them laying in my pile of new parts. Not sure what I was intending on using them for, bur the OEM snap ring worked for me.

She is all buttoned up. No rubbing at the recommended setting I lit 1.25" spacers on the front. She is all ready to go

Fresh lol change. Time to make a 170 mile trip after alignment and get it to it's new home

 

[STI_MECE]

The truck has finally made it's maiden voyage to the apartment I stay at for work.

Now the fun is going to begin. I got the knuckles changed out to ones that were not grinded to hell. I will take pictures this afternoon.

I put some used brake calipers on and discarded the old ones that looked like crap

I will post of my alignment specs with the SPC UCAs.

Had no rubbing at all. I did put 1.25 inch spacers on the front....not sure I can get away without them. I posted a thread about it sometime ago but no answer.

I have an insanely high long term fuel trim, around 19%. Under no load it goes negative -3%

Going to start with O2 sensor and MAF sensor. my short term fuel trim is pretty good about -2% to 2%.

I have heard older vehicles are known for having a higher LTFT because the seals will wear out.amd if I replace those sensors and it doesn't get any better, I may make am executive decision to not change the timing belt and just drive it till it explodes and then drop a manufactured block in.

It already has a retapped spark plug for cylinder 1 and to me, that is putting the nail in the coffin. Does anyone have any stories retapped spark plug holes and then the engine runs forever without blowing the cylinder out?

Would appreciate if I didn't talk to myself so much.....I want opinions and guidance because I need it. And I don't wanna blow up the threads. Id like to keep it all contained

 

[onemanarmy]

man that is a lot of work to re-do that mess.

Would have been easier and cheaper to start with a stock truck. Stock 2wd are cheap.

 

[STI_MECE]

man that is a lot of work to re-do that mess.

Would have been easier and cheaper to start with a stock truck. Stock 2wd are cheap.

I 100% agree. Definitely a live and learn here. I am fortunate enough to be near a really good junk yard where i can source practically anything i need really aside from engine parts which i wouldn't trust.

I am going to keep this thing for the long haul though so there is no turning back. I will do whatever it takes to keep it going.

Only thing that will keep me from rebuilding it is if it catches on fire, disintegrates, or explodes lol I see the value of owning these vehicles from everyone else and it makes me wanna push this thing further, faster.