phattyduck
Elite Member
No worries on the starter then. Starters are easy to change on the 2WD's...
-Charlie
-Charlie
Project NoRunner: 2000 SR5 4x2 Resto
- Thread starter STI_MECE
- Start date
STI_MECE
New member
She pures like a kitten. Way quieter than my old engine.
Gave me a scare for the first two starts she was running really rough. Killed it after five seconds on the first two starts. Thought it was a bad egg. Checked everything again and again everything was correct.
And boom the third start up she was purring away.
And before all of that i manually primed the engine with oil. Turned the crank quite a few times after putting 5.5 qts of oil in. Then k stomped the gas closed the injectors and cranked engine for three 2 second intervals.
On to the next project
224,480 Miles on 2000 Body
144,000 Miles on 1999 Engine
Gave me a scare for the first two starts she was running really rough. Killed it after five seconds on the first two starts. Thought it was a bad egg. Checked everything again and again everything was correct.
And boom the third start up she was purring away.
And before all of that i manually primed the engine with oil. Turned the crank quite a few times after putting 5.5 qts of oil in. Then k stomped the gas closed the injectors and cranked engine for three 2 second intervals.
On to the next project
224,480 Miles on 2000 Body
144,000 Miles on 1999 Engine
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Congrats. Glad it running againShe pures like a kitten. Way quieter than my old engine.
Gave me a scare for the first two starts she was running really rough. Killed it after five seconds on the first two starts. Thought it was a bad egg. Checked everything again and again everything was correct.
And boom the third start up she was purring away.
And before all of that i manually primed the engine with oil. Turned the crank quite a few times after putting 5.5 qts of oil in. Then k stomped the gas closed the injectors and cranked engine for three 2 second intervals.
On to the next project
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
So this is the vaccuum leak cause under heavy deceleration? Or are you hoping this is?Got a present for the NoRunner
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
You bought a brand new 3rd member for your runner?
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
STI_MECE
New member
New goodies for the truck.
Solder my harness together. The harness in the truck before hand was down right chicken shit
And finally got my stick welding machine going that I got for my birthday. 20% duty cycle at 210 DC amps for 459. Hobart 210i. I know all the runs aren't the best, that was intended. I had a awkward table I was trying to get comfortable on.
Gunna start designing a few things for the truck. I got connections on a steel mill and can get a varietyt of stock pieces for dirt cheap
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Solder my harness together. The harness in the truck before hand was down right chicken shit
And finally got my stick welding machine going that I got for my birthday. 20% duty cycle at 210 DC amps for 459. Hobart 210i. I know all the runs aren't the best, that was intended. I had a awkward table I was trying to get comfortable on.
Gunna start designing a few things for the truck. I got connections on a steel mill and can get a varietyt of stock pieces for dirt cheap
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
I seen people's radio harness alot worse then that before. That at least had the connections covered with insulation. I seen people leave the connections not covered before.
Granted it's not the greatest. Your looks alot better with the soldered connections and heat shrink over the solder joints.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Granted it's not the greatest. Your looks alot better with the soldered connections and heat shrink over the solder joints.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
You practicing??New goodies for the truck.
Solder my harness together. The harness in the truck before hand was down right chicken shit
And finally got my stick welding machine going that I got for my birthday. 20% duty cycle at 210 DC amps for 459. Hobart 210i. I know all the runs aren't the best, that was intended. I had a awkward table I was trying to get comfortable on.
Gunna start designing a few things for the truck. I got connections on a steel mill and can get a varietyt of stock pieces for dirt cheap
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
phattyduck
Elite Member
I find when I leave the harness that long that it is a hassle to fit it back behind the stereo. Now, when I do radio harnesses, I cut about 2/3 off each side and make much shorter patch harnesses. Otherwise, good work!
-Charlie
brillo_76
Elite Member
I leave them long like that so I can recycle the radio harness about 3 to 5 times on different vehicles.
I cant see that being an issue on a 3rd gen as there is plenty of room behind it.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Ha, yeah. There's room for an extra amp in the OEM setup, so there is room on the 3rd gen. Many other vehicles are pretty limited behind the radio (or, like my Camry, have other aftermarket stuff back there too).I leave them long like that so I can recycle the radio harness about 3 to 5 times on different vehicles.
I cant see that being an issue on a 3rd gen as there is plenty of room behind it.
-Charlie
STI_MECE
New member
(Maybe) Writing the final chapter on this book
So the noise came back shortly thereafter putting a new 3rd member in. But, I did figure out what is causing the noise, its my pinion angle. Along with the fact that my slip yoke was not fully engaged on the output shaft of my transmission.
How did I figure this out? I had about 500lbs worth of steel in the trunk, and to my amazement the noise went away. I did have subtle drive-line vibrations but I feel like that is small beans compared to what noise I had before.
Adjustable upper rear links should fix this. I would have honestly rather replaced the rear springs though but its still no guarantee.
And I got inspired to start working on another vehicle, its going to take more coin to build.
But I am going to be (possibly) selling this one in a few weeks but will not sell it till my drive-line issue is 100% resolved. Probably 8k is what my asking price will be....that is the amount I have just in parts alone on this thing lol If it had working AC it would be slam dunk, luckily I still get heat lol
Live and learn folks. and boy did I learn.
So the noise came back shortly thereafter putting a new 3rd member in. But, I did figure out what is causing the noise, its my pinion angle. Along with the fact that my slip yoke was not fully engaged on the output shaft of my transmission.
How did I figure this out? I had about 500lbs worth of steel in the trunk, and to my amazement the noise went away. I did have subtle drive-line vibrations but I feel like that is small beans compared to what noise I had before.
Adjustable upper rear links should fix this. I would have honestly rather replaced the rear springs though but its still no guarantee.
And I got inspired to start working on another vehicle, its going to take more coin to build.
But I am going to be (possibly) selling this one in a few weeks but will not sell it till my drive-line issue is 100% resolved. Probably 8k is what my asking price will be....that is the amount I have just in parts alone on this thing lol If it had working AC it would be slam dunk, luckily I still get heat lol
Live and learn folks. and boy did I learn.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The 2WD driveshaft has two single u-joints (not the double-cardan front joint that the 4WD's have). The rear pinion angle should match the transmission output angle - unless you put on 4WD upper links, your pinion angle should be fine with all the OEM links.
How's the driveshaft itself doing? The OEM 2WD shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time that causes vibrations that can only be fixed with a complete new driveshaft.
-Charlie
How's the driveshaft itself doing? The OEM 2WD shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time that causes vibrations that can only be fixed with a complete new driveshaft.
-Charlie
STI_MECE
New member
Well remember, I have what was advertised as a "3inch" lift. If the rear is lifted too high, the 3rd member is going to want to rotate downward to the ground. And you can see the slip yoke is not slid all the way into its home either.
Whenever i packed that weight in the back it brought my ass end back down, and the axle was brought closer to where it should be. (rotated back up)
This gave me two things, my yoke had better engagement with the splines on the output shaft, and it brought the pinion angle back into alignment with the transmission output yoke angle.
The rear uppers should be OEM unless PO changed them, for some ungodly reason.
Once I go back home im going to take some measurements to see how much it actually brought the ass end down.
The 2WD driveshafts are quite inferior compared to 4WD. The double cardarn and 2 piece shaft is the reason why lfited 4WD runners dont have this problem nearly as often as a lifted 2WD runner. Its pretty nice the 4WD bolts to the transfer case.
I found another thread on yota techs page where a 2WD runner installed 891's and had the same issue as me but he went different ways to fix it and never could fix it, but he also never tried adjustable endlinks, instead he was just changing the length of his shaft.
phattyduck
Elite Member
That sounds about right. The 4WD's are less sensitive to pinion angle, and the splines between the two halves have much more engagement than the 2WD slip yoke.
Hopefully you can fix it... It may be a combination of a small driveshaft spacer and adjusting the pinion angle. Just make sure it can't bottom out the driveshaft at full compression (have to remove springs to check how much room you have on the driveshaft).
-Charlie
Hopefully you can fix it... It may be a combination of a small driveshaft spacer and adjusting the pinion angle. Just make sure it can't bottom out the driveshaft at full compression (have to remove springs to check how much room you have on the driveshaft).
-Charlie
STI_MECE
New member
I still got my 4Runner. I realized I don't need to sell it but my vehicles are always "for sale". And I popped my mechanic cherry on this thing.
I have put 5k on the ticker since the engine swap and it runs like a top.
Here is progress on lastest project. I got the panels off another black ram for 450. And the rims, for 175. Fun fact most DRW (Dual rear wheels) use something called wheel simulators. It's a rich-poor man's version of a hub cab. Except these are stainless steel.
They got two different designs under lugs and over lugs. I got thunder lugs where the simulators is between the hub and lug kind of sketchy but it works. The over lug will come with studs that screw onto the main lug nut and so the simulator is held on by its own lug nut.
Not that anyone here cares but if you ever run across this , get the over lug design lol much easier to install
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I have put 5k on the ticker since the engine swap and it runs like a top.
Here is progress on lastest project. I got the panels off another black ram for 450. And the rims, for 175. Fun fact most DRW (Dual rear wheels) use something called wheel simulators. It's a rich-poor man's version of a hub cab. Except these are stainless steel.
They got two different designs under lugs and over lugs. I got thunder lugs where the simulators is between the hub and lug kind of sketchy but it works. The over lug will come with studs that screw onto the main lug nut and so the simulator is held on by its own lug nut.
Not that anyone here cares but if you ever run across this , get the over lug design lol much easier to install
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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