PSA: Use the Right Coolant

Don't know about dealer price, but on Amazon the Toyota stuff is more than double the cost of Zerex Asian equivalent.

Sure, but it's concentrate. I've only ever seen Zerex Asian as a premix, so you gotta buy twice as much. Ends up about the same price in the end.
 
Sure, but it's concentrate. I've only ever seen Zerex Asian as a premix, so you gotta buy twice as much. Ends up about the same price in the end.

Actually I was comparing premix vs. premix. There may be better deals on Toyota coolant there but I didn't look very long.
I use the Toyota red stuff in mine and add distilled water. It's strange that the undiluted stuff is only a a few bucks more than the version that's half water.
 
Additionally the use of Distilled Water is not as recommended these days because apparently the "pure" water actually can cause some weird metallurgic interactions (I need to find a source for this as I had one in another thread someone posted.)

This subject has been kicked around a number of times on various Mercedes-Benz forums. I could go on and on about what's been said. I once attempted to follow a thread on this subject that included 3 people with chemistry backgrounds ranging from B. S. to PhD.

I'd like to know what kind of water Toyota uses in their SLLC coolant - the one with NO silicates?
 
You have to be careful, Toyota LLC (Long Life Coolant) aka "Toyota Red" is what your 2002 3rd Gen 4Runner takes, it is a LOW Silicate formula among some other differences.

Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) aka "Toyota Pink" is a NO Silicate formula among some other things and is spec'd for your 2004 4th gen 4Runner and newer.

Toyota SLLC is backwards compatible, meaning your 2002 3rd gen can use it in place of the Toyota LLC, but your 4th gen cannot use Toyota LLC, it needs SLLC or equivalent. Also, diluting LLC does not make it SLLC, I've had some people get that information from even parts departments and it's completely wrong; LLC is usually undiluted, while SLLC is pre-mixed. Additionally the use of Distilled Water is not as recommended these days because apparently the "pure" water actually can cause some weird metallurgic interactions (I need to find a source for this as I had one in another thread someone posted.)

Yeah, I just figured this out over the weekend. I have a 3rd gen, and when I replaced my rad last year, I used the SLLC. I just had to do some work on it this weekend and had to replace the fluid again (don't ask), and went with the LLC since it was only $28 at the local dealership ($30 on Amazon) and I needed it sooner than later. I realized that the non-diluted LLC isn't just a concentrated version of the SLLC, but I'm glad to hear that I was OK to use SLLC in my 3rd gen.

One question I have is that I had about 3/4 of a gallon of SLLC left from last year's rad change, so I added it, and then filled up the rest with about a gallon of 50/50 LLC that I mixed. Is that going to be OK or are these technically two separate coolants that shouldn't be mixed? I haven't driven it at all, just ran the engine to burp it.
 
You have to be careful, Toyota LLC (Long Life Coolant) aka "Toyota Red" is what your 2002 3rd Gen 4Runner takes, it is a LOW Silicate formula among some other differences.

Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) aka "Toyota Pink" is a NO Silicate formula among some other things and is spec'd for your 2004 4th gen 4Runner and newer.

Toyota SLLC is backwards compatible, meaning your 2002 3rd gen can use it in place of the Toyota LLC, but your 4th gen cannot use Toyota LLC, it needs SLLC or equivalent. Also, diluting LLC does not make it SLLC, I've had some people get that information from even parts departments and it's completely wrong; LLC is usually undiluted, while SLLC is pre-mixed. Additionally the use of Distilled Water is not as recommended these days because apparently the "pure" water actually can cause some weird metallurgic interactions (I need to find a source for this as I had one in another thread someone posted.)
that is very interesting. I would like to read more on that, if you find it.

What savings? What are they buying? Zerex Asian comes out to the same price as Toyota red from the dealer, last time I checked.
they are buying the cheap crap from autozone. green, or universal. $9 a gallon. compared to about $30 from the dealer..
 
that is very interesting. I would like to read more on that, if you find it.


they are buying the cheap crap from autozone. green, or universal. $9 a gallon. compared to about $30 from the dealer..

Maybe it should be stamped on the radiator... honestly some people just don't know any better.

My friend dumped tap water into his over flow tank on his 2013 nissan , I politely asked him what he was doing, then proceeded to yell at him lol. Tried to get the whatever was in the tank out but I think it was too late at that point. I told him he needs to drain everything now, tried to tell him to use OEM Fluid, I don't think he did.
 
Maybe it should be stamped on the radiator... honestly some people just don't know any better.

My friend dumped tap water into his over flow tank on his 2013 nissan , I politely asked him what he was doing, then proceeded to yell at him lol. Tried to get the whatever was in the tank out but I think it was too late at that point. I told him he needs to drain everything now, tried to tell him to use OEM Fluid, I don't think he did.

I try to use(at work) whatever the OEM calls for, whenever I can. but honestly, im not sure it really matters, as long as they don't get mixed. assuming they get changed at the correct interval for the fluid, I don't know that it really matters much.

as to the tap water issue, I have used it in all of my own vehicles for many years, that coupled with regular green coolant. I haven't experienced any cooling issues due to the water, nor the green coolant.

the 06 4runner is the only vehicle that I did not use tap water on...
but apparently, I did use the wrong antifreeze. the dealer sold me red...
 
Yeah, I just figured this out over the weekend. I have a 3rd gen, and when I replaced my rad last year, I used the SLLC. I just had to do some work on it this weekend and had to replace the fluid again (don't ask), and went with the LLC since it was only $28 at the local dealership ($30 on Amazon) and I needed it sooner than later. I realized that the non-diluted LLC isn't just a concentrated version of the SLLC, but I'm glad to hear that I was OK to use SLLC in my 3rd gen.

One question I have is that I had about 3/4 of a gallon of SLLC left from last year's rad change, so I added it, and then filled up the rest with about a gallon of 50/50 LLC that I mixed. Is that going to be OK or are these technically two separate coolants that shouldn't be mixed? I haven't driven it at all, just ran the engine to burp it.

You're fine with your 3rd gen as SLLC is backwards compatible so it won't do any damage, just follow the interval for LLC.

I try to use(at work) whatever the OEM calls for, whenever I can. but honestly, im not sure it really matters, as long as they don't get mixed. assuming they get changed at the correct interval for the fluid, I don't know that it really matters much.

as to the tap water issue, I have used it in all of my own vehicles for many years, that coupled with regular green coolant. I haven't experienced any cooling issues due to the water, nor the green coolant.

the 06 4runner is the only vehicle that I did not use tap water on...
but apparently, I did use the wrong antifreeze. the dealer sold me red...

Tap water might not be great depending on the mineral content of your area. But probably not entirely harmful if you're just topping off? I'm a little fuzzy on the proper water to use these days to be honest.
 
I get asked alot why you can't just put whatever coolant you want in a car. Well here's a good real world example. This owner's Prius now needs a Cylinder Head ontop of the HG job I was doing because they used the wrong coolant and the head is literally being eroded away because of it (called Cavitation Damage). The highlighted section shows that the coolant passage are actually being eaten away and this could have caused the HG to fail, it's hard to tell at this point; but the damage is done. This is just the obvious damage, this type of erosion is now through out the entire cooling system to varying degrees.

View attachment 210178

This is the type of long term damage I am talking about when you don't use the coolant designed for the vehicle. Just because you don't see the effects or feel any problems doesn't mean it isn't causing damage.

Excellent picture. Where is the water pump in relation to that damage location? I only ask because I was wondering if it was possible that this damage was at all related to the borate content in the aftermarket coolant. I think they call it pinhole corrosion? I think it's specifically related to the borate content of a coolant.
 
Excellent picture. Where is the water pump in relation to that damage location? I only ask because I was wondering if it was possible that this damage was at all related to the borate content in the aftermarket coolant. I think they call it pinhole corrosion? I think it's specifically related to the borate content of a coolant.

Being a Prius it's an electric waterpump unit mounted off the side of the timing cover. The internal passages of the pump are all plastic and mount to a aluminum section of the timing cover to the plastic thermostat housing. It's been a LONG time since I actually read/remember the majority of the chemicals in coolant and what they prevent.
 
I've been using Zerex Asian in my Tacoma for years with no problem, I'll probably continue it's use in my new to me '06 Runner. I don't know if it makes a difference but in years gone by I always used spring water to dilute any concentrated stuff.
 
I plan on going with the red coolant in my 01 this weekend. Prior owner I just got from just put the green in it. Start flushing that out now
 

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