Pulling 22RE

tundrayetti

tundrayetti

New member
Blew a head gasket a few weeks ago, and decided to pull it and rebuild it. I'm in the process of pulling it now.

Can I loosen to the top two bell-housing bolts without lowering transmission? I know I can "get" to them from up top, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips to loosening them.

Note: I haven't actually TRIED to loosen them yet. I was just removing the upper plenum this morning to get to the wiring harness, and I happened to look over and ask myself if it's possible. I think it is. Just looking for any tips/tricks.
 
Register to hide this ad
It's easier to get to them if the back of the trans has been unbolted and lowered.
A 3 foot extension for your impact gun or ratchet also makes it a lot easier.
 
I get to them with a 3' extension and a swivel. Did it yesterday with the tranny fully bolted in. The ratchet ends up being almost back to the cossmember. Haha.
 
Yeah, I've done the 3' extension from underneath before. Was just wondering if I could loosen them from the top, reaching behind the engine.

Sounds like I'll be crawling underneath!
 
Back to pulling the engine this morning.....I'm almost there

Question: When I pull the engine, How well will the front of the transmission be supported? Will the shifter bolts up top be enough to hold it up, or would that be too much stress on those small bolts?

I'm thinking of just putting a jack under the front, or maybe a jack stand, since that would never hurt. Just wanted to know what you guys normally do?
 
I just realized how absolutely dumb this sounds (shifter bolts???).......

I'm going to ratchet strap the tranny up somehow. Better than a jack stand in case I have to roll her forward or backward.
 
tundrayetti said:
Back to pulling the engine this morning.....I'm almost there

Question: When I pull the engine, How well will the front of the transmission be supported? Will the shifter bolts up top be enough to hold it up, or would that be too much stress on those small bolts?

I'm thinking of just putting a jack under the front, or maybe a jack stand, since that would never hurt. Just wanted to know what you guys normally do?
Click to expand...

You may be able to pull the engine off the transmission with the trans in the rig but... I don't see any way that you will get it back in with the trans in.
 
eby6ugu4.jpg
bu8yhu6a.jpg


Engine is out with transmission still in place. I ratchet strapped the front of the tranny to support it.

Thanks Gerdo. We'll see if I can get it back in with the tranny in place or not. I'll post an update when I put her back in.
 
Nice!

I haven't had my block out (yet :D), but when a buddy did his he said a couple really long bolts through the bell housing really helped with lining the motor and the trans up. I'll get some details from him if you'd like.
 
I have read many times over that you shouldn't use the long bolt method. I know lots if people do it, but I guess sometimes, things can get damaged. I just dropped my 22re in recently and it wasn't that bad with an extra hand. Having the engine chained at the right level (front slightly up) and leaving the motor mount feet off helped a lot. I used a bottle jack to raise and lower the front of the trans in small increments too. If its not lined up right, I would think its best not to brute force things together. When it finally is right it goes together easy.
 
Thanks guys. I'll have another guy helping me and we both tend to be problem solvers. As easy as it came out, I'm thinking it's going to be pretty easy to get it back in. Tranny will slide right in once it's lined up correctly, whether you're installing the tranny into the engine or the engine onto the tranny.
 
tundrayetti said:
Blew a head gasket a few weeks ago
Click to expand...

Not so much. Found the culprit this afternoon....see picture. No big deal since I'm doing a total rebuild.

Question for future reference though: Is there an easy way to tell a cracked head vs. a blown head gasket?

This is my very first rebuild. So far I've got her stripped down to block, crank, and pistons. Going to remove pistons and crank in the next day or so and prepare to drop my block off at the machine shop next week. So far, I've done the work completely solo. I'm learning a ton so far!
 

Attachments

  • rsz_photo_8.jpg
    rsz_photo_8.jpg
    50.3 KB · Views: 948
Looking good so far! I don't really know an exact difference in symptoms between a cracked head and a bad head gasket.

For installing the engine, I jacked up the front end of my tranny as much as I can till the bell housing was hitting the bottom of the body. That allowed me to get the engine at a good angle. The angle helps a ton! Get that input shaft from the tranny (no pun intended) sticking up high (again, no pun intended) so that when you lower the engine against that shaft, it should just slip right in while you lower the engine slowly. You may need to turn the drive shaft just a hair to align the splines. I did mine like that and it went in easily. As soon as you get the engine and tranny lined up, remove the jack from the tranny and lower the engine down to its mounts and start all the hardware for the engine mounts and bell housing before you tighten any of them. That was one of my most satisfying moments when I got done with my engine... slapping it back in the runner.

Good luck! Post lots of pics!
 
just for reference and for putting it back in, when I pulled mine, I accessed the top two bolts through the shifter hole :) not hard to take apart, and I was comfortable while doing it. still takes a little while because you can only get a few clicks in at a time on the ratchet.
 
So, here is where I am at the moment:
photo12_zps1f1c5632.jpg~original


I went out this morning and measured all of my cylinder bores. I followed the FSM measuring instructions using a telescoping gage and micrometer.

First, the FSM states that each cylinder should be stamped 1,2, or 3. I can't find that stamp on ANY of the cylinders.

I moved past that, and measured my cylinder bore diameters at positions A, B, and C in the thrust and axial directions (just as the FSM states).

Smallest diameter found: 3.6511"
Largest diameter found: 3.6627"
MOST of the 24 measurements taken were in the 3.66xx" range. Very few of them were in the 3.65xx" range.

Comparing these numbers to the FSM, I would think that I'm going to need a new block. However, check out this picture below:

This is stamped on each of my pistons. What is this telling me about the last time it was bored? If anything....
photo13_zps7dcc0086.jpg~original


Thanks boys
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 190 (members: 1, guests: 189)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top