Pulling 22RE

[KidVermicious]

Question for future reference though: Is there an easy way to tell a cracked head vs. a blown head gasket?

That's easy, a cracked head has a crack in it.

 

[tundrayetti]

That's easy, a cracked head has a crack in it.

Touche' :flipoff:

 

[KidVermicious]

Touche' :flipoff:

:moon:

 

[SV_Dude]

This is stamped on each of my pistons. What is this telling me about the last time it was bored? If anything....

Thanks boys

That number is for the over sized piston. Your block was already bored .040 over. The FSM assumes that your block is stock and un-molested (not bored at all). Take your block to a machinist and he'll measure it and tell you what you need to do with it. Make sure you tell him that your engine was previously rebuilt with .040 bore already. Most likely, if the bores are bad then you'll need a new block. You can over bore to .050 and .060 but that is pretty extreme on these little engines.

 

[KidVermicious]

So, I know a guy parting out a 20,000 mile 22RE that would probably sell you his perfectly good head for wicked cheap. He's got a Compcams street cam too, if you were into that sort of thing.

:whistling:

 

[tundrayetti]

Your block was already bored .040 over.

I guess I could've converted that to inches, and the light would've gone off for me. Thanks bud

 

[tundrayetti]

So, I know a guy parting out a 20,000 mile 22RE that would probably sell you his perfectly good head for wicked cheap. He's got a Compcams street cam too, if you were into that sort of thing.

:whistling:

I appeciate the offer brother. But now that I think my block needs replacing, I'm going to explore all my options and figure out what I'm going to do.

I'll keep you in mind though :hatsoff:

 

[ozzyleven]

I appeciate the offer brother. But now that I think my block needs replacing, I'm going to explore all my options and figure out what I'm going to do.

I'll keep you in mind though :hatsoff:

You might try talking to some engine builders about sleeving the cylinders. When I was chatting with the guys I got my engine from, they said that they commonly bore out to .06 and then sleeve them back down to .02 (I think). I don't know how preferred of a method it is, but I bet someone around you might be willing to let you know all your options.

 

[tundrayetti]

You might try talking to some engine builders about sleeving the cylinders. When I was chatting with the guys I got my engine from, they said that they commonly bore out to .06 and then sleeve them back down to .02 (I think). I don't know how preferred of a method it is, but I bet someone around you might be willing to let you know all your options.

Thanks Ozzy. I'm definitely considering this option, just waiting on the machine shop to get back to me.

Anyone have any first-hand experience with re-sleeving cylinders?

 

[SV_Dude]

I wouldn't pay to re-sleeve a 22re. You can find bare blocks for next to nothing and have it machined for a couple hundred bucks.

 

[tundrayetti]

I wouldn't pay to re-sleeve a 22re. You can find bare blocks for next to nothing and have it machined for a couple hundred bucks.

I hear ya. I'm also thinking about just buying a brand new block. Just kind of taking my time with my decisions, exploring all options.

 

[ozzyleven]

SV, how cheap is cheap for a block around you? They are crazy up here and surrounding area. Like 250-400. Hard to find also. When I picked up my new engine, I just paid the $250 core to keep my old one because its so bad with any of the classic yota parts here. Most recent add in my area on Craigslist, guy wanted 600 for 22re knocking on removal with trans attached

 

[SV_Dude]

I see most rebuildable engines (long blocks) on craigslist for $300 to $400. BUT, I think they're out of their mind at that price. I'm usually pretty good at finding deals on craigslist so I wouldn't pay any more than $100 for a rebuildable short block and no more than $200 for a long block. The risk of a builder motor is that you don't know what you're getting, so that $100 or $200 is a gamble.

 

[tundrayetti]

I've been MIA for a couple of weeks due to my wife and I having our first child on the 29th......getting somewhat back to normal now.

I've decided to buy a rebuilt engine....My question is regarding any feedback for UNITED ENGINE out of California.

Anyone have good, bad, or indifferent things to say about them?

 

[nevada]

Douche' :flipoff:

fixed.

I wouldn't pay to re-sleeve a 22re. You can find bare blocks for next to nothing and have it machined for a couple hundred bucks.

this. i wouldnt sleeve it. blocks are cheap.

SV, how cheap is cheap for a block around you? They are crazy up here and surrounding area. Like 250-400. Hard to find also. When I picked up my new engine, I just paid the $250 core to keep my old one because its so bad with any of the classic yota parts here. Most recent add in my area on Craigslist, guy wanted 600 for 22re knocking on removal with trans attached

wow..

ive scrapped atleast 3 so far..

 

[tundrayetti]

I'm dropping in my rebuilt 22RE and I'm doing away with my EGR.

My question(s): What does the Pair Valve do? And do I remove it along with EGR?

 

[SV_Dude]

If you don't have to worry about emissions then I would remove ALL emission junk. The pair valve works with the EGR so that can go too. Just get some good vacuum caps and cap off all the other junk that you're deleting.

 

[tundrayetti]

That's what I was thinking. Thanks for the confirmation.