Pulling and replacing motor Q’s: 4.7 V8

[kmahl]

Long story short, sucks some,.... s lot of water up and seized the motor up. I’m a broke teen college student whom has a garage, and has done all the work on my car. However nothing as big as and engine swap.

If I get a motor from the same year, is this gonna be a un bolt, remove motor and stick new one in plug and play sort of deal or am I gonna need special equipment, tools and what not.

I haven’t been able to find any write up on this, but I’m thinking worse case scenario I can’t finish it and pay someone to do it but save some $ in labor from having some things removed.

This is gonna be a fun one




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[Mike07SE]

Check this link and download the FSM's required. These are basically the factory instruction manuals on how to disassemble and reassemble the truck.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/100275-service-manual-download-links.html

A motor of the same year should be a direct swap with no messing around with anything. Only thing I can see setting you back are aged hardware that can possibly break and hold you up for additional repairs (think rusted exhaust bolts, etc).

 

[kmahl]

Check this link and download the FSM's required. These are basically the factory instruction manuals on how to disassemble and reassemble the truck.



http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/100275-service-manual-download-links.html



A motor of the same year should be a direct swap with no messing around with anything. Only thing I can see setting you back are aged hardware that can possibly break and hold you up for additional repairs (think rusted exhaust bolts, etc).

Perfect thank you.


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[duffdog]

hold on there!

I did the same thing-- drove my truck into a huge puddle and broke a piston rod. I was going to do a motor swap until I found out that you have to have the EXACT year or it won't work. I had an 05, if you try to put in any other year besides 05 none of the connectors will work and the computer won't allow the truck to start. Additionally, I looked at the book labor for a 4wd v8 to change out the motor, it came back at 79 hours!!!! Thats $8000 dollars in labor!!

So, I decided to fix the engine in the truck myself by removing the heads and the oil pan and pulling out the bad piston rod from the bottom, installing a new rod and oil squirter and having the heads redone. When I blew my engine it bent two valves and the head had to be heated for them to be removed, so it cost me $20 for a used piston with rod from another 2uzfe, $30 for a new oil squirter, $600 to redo both heads at a machine shop and $250 for a gasket kit. Engine fixed and still working great to this day. for way less than all the shops quoted me.

 

[kmahl]

hold on there!

I did the same thing-- drove my truck into a huge puddle and broke a piston rod. I was going to do a motor swap until I found out that you have to have the EXACT year or it won't work. I had an 05, if you try to put in any other year besides 05 none of the connectors will work and the computer won't allow the truck to start. Additionally, I looked at the book labor for a 4wd v8 to change out the motor, it came back at 79 hours!!!! Thats $8000 dollars in labor!!

So, I decided to fix the engine in the truck myself by removing the heads and the oil pan and pulling out the bad piston rod from the bottom, installing a new rod and oil squirter and having the heads redone. When I blew my engine it bent two valves and the head had to be heated for them to be removed, so it cost me $20 for a used piston with rod from another 2uzfe, $30 for a new oil squirter, $600 to redo both heads at a machine shop and $250 for a gasket kit. Engine fixed and still working great to this day. for way less than all the shops quoted me.

What year was the donor motor from? I was under the impression that I needed to get a 06-09 4.7 being mine is a 07

 

[duffdog]

What year was the donor motor from? I was under the impression that I needed to get a 06-09 4.7 being mine is a 07

There was no donor motor. I disassembled my existing motor and put new parts in it sourced from Toyota and Ebay. If your pistons are good, keep them and reuse. In my case the rod was broken so I got a used rod from an 03 tundra and put my piston on it. Note that the pistons are different in all years so I would never try to put in a piston from an 03 or 07 in my 05.

 

[kmahl]

There was no donor motor. I disassembled my existing motor and put new parts in it sourced from Toyota and Ebay. If your pistons are good, keep them and reuse. In my case the rod was broken so I got a used rod from an 03 tundra and put my piston on it. Note that the pistons are different in all years so I would never try to put in a piston from an 03 or 07 in my 05.

I misread that... it seems it would be easier to swap a motor then go that deep into disassembly. It might be a little more expensive. I can get a lower mileage engine for about 1,500


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[HanIsa97]

Thanks for the service manual links

 

[djkurious]

Check LKQ inventory and also car-part.com

May find one 100k-150k for 1500.00 in your area.

Seem they are more expensive in Denver, I picked up one from LKQ for $700 with 80k in my area of Nashville, TN.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

hold on there!

I did the same thing-- drove my truck into a huge puddle and broke a piston rod. I was going to do a motor swap until I found out that you have to have the EXACT year or it won't work. I had an 05, if you try to put in any other year besides 05 none of the connectors will work and the computer won't allow the truck to start. Additionally, I looked at the book labor for a 4wd v8 to change out the motor, it came back at 79 hours!!!! Thats $8000 dollars in labor!!

So, I decided to fix the engine in the truck myself by removing the heads and the oil pan and pulling out the bad piston rod from the bottom, installing a new rod and oil squirter and having the heads redone. When I blew my engine it bent two valves and the head had to be heated for them to be removed, so it cost me $20 for a used piston with rod from another 2uzfe, $30 for a new oil squirter, $600 to redo both heads at a machine shop and $250 for a gasket kit. Engine fixed and still working great to this day. for way less than all the shops quoted me.

Interesting on needing the '05 specifically, I knew the 1GR-FEs had some inline changes to camshaft sensors so earlier models and newer ones aren't swapable. But I wasn't aware that the '05 4Runner V8 was that specific in that a '06~'08 4Runner V8 won't clip in properly. Wonder what the changes were.

Was this specifically an issue you ran into with swapping 4Runner V8's or just that you tried to swap a '05 from another vehicle (LC100, Tundra, Sequoia?).

 

[kmahl]

Interesting on needing the '05 specifically, I knew the 1GR-FEs had some inline changes to camshaft sensors so earlier models and newer ones aren't swapable. But I wasn't aware that the '05 4Runner V8 was that specific in that a '06~'08 4Runner V8 won't clip in properly. Wonder what the changes were.



Was this specifically an issue you ran into with swapping 4Runner V8's or just that you tried to swap a '05 from another vehicle (LC100, Tundra, Sequoia?).

From my understanding some changes were made because of emission standards, not sure what the change were.

Edit* 06 + went to and electric throttle cable


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[duffdog]

Interesting on needing the '05 specifically, I knew the 1GR-FEs had some inline changes to camshaft sensors so earlier models and newer ones aren't swapable. But I wasn't aware that the '05 4Runner V8 was that specific in that a '06~'08 4Runner V8 won't clip in properly. Wonder what the changes were.

Was this specifically an issue you ran into with swapping 4Runner V8's or just that you tried to swap a '05 from another vehicle (LC100, Tundra, Sequoia?).

It was the first year of VVTI and also the first year of SAIS... which is poorly implemented on the 05, the later years are better. First, I confirmed that you can't even plug in most of the emissions harness because the connectors are changed and the wiring is different. Specifically, the SAIS valve connectors are a different length on the harness and different physical connectors for 05 vs 06+. I did not want to mess with resoldering and extending cables which might not even have the individual wires in the same orientation.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

From my understanding some changes were made because of emission standards, not sure what the change were.

Edit* 06 + went to and electric throttle cable


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They should all be throttle by wire after '03, I think even the Tundras and Sequoias ditched the "hybrid" throttle body for fully electronic ones by then.

It was the first year of VVTI and also the first year of SAIS... which is poorly implemented on the 05, the later years are better. First, I confirmed that you can't even plug in most of the emissions harness because the connectors are changed and the wiring is different. Specifically, the SAIS valve connectors are a different length on the harness and different physical connectors for 05 vs 06+. I did not want to mess with resoldering and extending cables which might not even have the individual wires in the same orientation.

Ah, that sounds very likely.

 

[kmahl]

Tore open the motor a bit clean out the manifold and inspect the valves. Hand cranked motor and it doesn't spin all the way though. Going to order new motor on Monday.

As for the electrical issue, ran a fancy scanner and it only shows engine, transmission systems and apparently should show much more. Toyota tech's reassurance was "its fixable"... Im more afraid of that than the swap.

 

[kmahl]

Incase anyone was curious, I have the original motor yanked and will be receiving new motor towards the end of this week. Wasn't near as bad as I expected, but still have a lot to go. TONS of wiring to be put back correctly.

 

[V8Man]

Been there

Now is great time to change or at least inspect the timing belt and water pump and exhaust manifolds!

 

[kmahl]

Now is great time to change or at least inspect the timing belt and water pump and exhaust manifolds!

I agree! Already have the timing belt / water pump kit here ready to go!


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[kmahl]

I’m a little weary about mounting the new motor back to the transmission. Is there a certain orientation the torque converter needs to be mates back with the tranny? I haven’t pulled the torque converter off the original motor yet. I read i was suppose to unbolt the TC first but with the motor seized up i wasnt able to do that,

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[Cruiserfanatic]

hold on there!

I did the same thing-- drove my truck into a huge puddle and broke a piston rod. I was going to do a motor swap until I found out that you have to have the EXACT year or it won't work. I had an 05, if you try to put in any other year besides 05 none of the connectors will work and the computer won't allow the truck to start. Additionally, I looked at the book labor for a 4wd v8 to change out the motor, it came back at 79 hours!!!! Thats $8000 dollars in labor!!

So, I decided to fix the engine in the truck myself by removing the heads and the oil pan and pulling out the bad piston rod from the bottom, installing a new rod and oil squirter and having the heads redone. When I blew my engine it bent two valves and the head had to be heated for them to be removed, so it cost me $20 for a used piston with rod from another 2uzfe, $30 for a new oil squirter, $600 to redo both heads at a machine shop and $250 for a gasket kit. Engine fixed and still working great to this day. for way less than all the shops quoted me.

There is absolutely no way that labor to swap this engine came out to 79 hours. Even a complete overhaul including you doing all of the machine work on the block and the heads would be this much labor. They are a fair amount of work to pull and reinstall, but not that bad.

 

[Cruiserfanatic]

I’m a little weary about mounting the new motor back to the transmission. Is there a certain orientation the torque converter needs to be mates back with the tranny? I haven’t pulled the torque converter off the original motor yet. I read i was suppose to unbolt the TC first but with the motor seized up i wasnt able to do that,

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When you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, you will need to install the torque converter on the transmission before bolting the engine back up. You will also need to be 100% certain that the torque converter is completely slid into the front pump of the transmission, because if you don't, it will destroy the pump and the torque converter. I know this by personal reference when I was pretty green as a tech way back in the day. HAHA. Usually what I do is when I'm bolting the engine and trans together, I reach in the starter hole and through one of the holes on the flex plate and just make sure the torque converter spins freely. If it does while you're bolting the block up, you're golden, but if you check it, and it doesn't spin, STOP and undo whatever it is you just did. That torque converter needs to be able to spin freely even when the engine and trans are 100% tight to each other.