Question about power steering pump tension adjuster

[Endlessblockades]

2 things: I have had an ongoing whistling, chirping, squeaking sound from my PS belt and had initial success tightening the tension adjuster. It came back after a few weeks and is now fairly constant. The issue I'm now having it that the tension bolt seems to know no end - it just turns and turns. Second issue is that I've been down there so much I broke the brittle plastic connector (PS idle-up switch - thanks [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]) and although I taped it back together for now I think I will splice in a new connector.


I found this advice from [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] in the same thread and the parts are cheap and available.

"You need a repair wire--a short wire with the correct terminal pre-attached, which you then insert into your plastic housing after removing the old wire/terminal. Specifically, you need this one (82998-12440):

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconsh...w-w-8299812440



If you need the plastic connector housing with no wire because your old one is trashed, it is 90980-11428:

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconsh...r-f-9098011428

Toyota does not sell the housing and wire together, only separately."


Any ideas why the tension bolt spins (by design?) - did I F that up too?

Thanks!

 

[brillo_76]

The ps tension is similar to the alt tighter. It's a long bolt through the colum shaft. Unless you stripped those threads, I don't see how you can have that happen.

You have to loosen the bolt so the pump can pivot just like the alt.

The major difference is the alt bolt can swing out of the tensioner where the power steering can not.

Did you run out of adjustment and the 2 threads separated?

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Endlessblockades]

The ps tension is similar to the alt tighter. It's a long bolt through the colum shaft. Unless you stripped those threads, I don't see how you can have that happen.

You have to loosen the bolt so the pump can pivot just like the alt.

The major difference is the alt bolt can swing out of the tensioner where the power steering can not.

Did you run out of adjustment and the 2 threads separated?

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Really not sure as it's pretty hard to see what's going on from above. I'll have to find my PDF of the FSM and see an exploded view to understand what's up. What I have been doing is loosening the 2 front-facing bolts and then snaking a stubby ratcheting wrench onto the tension bolt head mainly by feel and cranking away. It has never seemed to have much resistance nor does it seem to increase. I don;t suppose it's reverse-threaded, is it? LOL. That would be just my luck. I am reminded of the first time I tried to replace a flat on my 1965 New Yorker and none of the lug nuts would budge!

 

[Bad Luck]

Really not sure as it's pretty hard to see what's going on from above. I'll have to find my PDF of the FSM and see an exploded view to understand what's up. What I have been doing is loosening the 2 front-facing bolts and then snaking a stubby ratcheting wrench onto the tension bolt head mainly by feel and cranking away. It has never seemed to have much resistance nor does it seem to increase. I don;t suppose it's reverse-threaded, is it? LOL. That would be just my luck. I am reminded of the first time I tried to replace a flat on my 1965 New Yorker and none of the lug nuts would budge!

It's not reverse threaded. If you look at this Timmy youtube video: Drive Belt Replacement - YouTube at 4:10 ish is the FSM and then around 9:50 shows him loosening the power steering tensioner setup to get the belt off.

 

[96RedRunner]

I don;t suppose it's reverse-threaded, is it?

Nope, clockwise tightens belt had my pump out last month.
Something not right with your tensioner, the bolt you loosen on block just above it is a steel tab that fits in a hole is tab in hole as it should be.

 

[spartacus]

It tightens up eventually but seems to take forever.

 

[Endlessblockades]

It's not reverse threaded. If you look at this Timmy youtube video: Drive Belt Replacement - YouTube at 4:10 ish is the FSM and then around 9:50 shows him loosening the power steering tensioner setup to get the belt off.

Thanks for that. So what I have been doing in loosening A and B and turning C clockwise. Then I tighten B and A. The squealing did subside the first couple times. That C tension bolt is hella long in the picture I grabbed from the video! Maybe I need more patience and more turns.....It's probably a 16th of a turn each ratchet crank due to there being no space to work down there.

 

[Endlessblockades]

It tightens up eventually but seems to take forever.

Yes - Our posts crossed earlier and I didn't see your picture. Thank you - I will crank on.......

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks for that. So what I have been doing in loosening A and B and turning C clockwise. Then I tighten B and A. The squealing did subside the first couple times. That C tension bolt is hella long in the picture I grabbed from the video! Maybe I need more patience and more turns.....It's probably a 16th of a turn each ratchet crank due to there being no space to work down there.

I had to replace that whole tensioner setup on my 5 speed. For some reason it was all missing when I bought the vehicle. Anyways, I felt like I spent 15 minutes just tightening that long bolt with a ratcheting wrench. It took forever!

 

[96RedRunner]

I will crank on.......

After changing battery this morning took a look at tensioner, I have 2" of thread left for adjusting.
Squeaking belts topic pops up regularly, never mentioned is pulleys need attention after 200k mi or so.
A wire brush and brake clean on pulleys something I do as part of Timing/Accessory belt job.
Makes a difference.

 

[phattyduck]

Another thing to note is that ribbed belts can look fine but still slip/squeak at the correct tension. The running surface can get compressed and stop gripping like it is supposed to in the Vs.

I'd suggest putting new quality belts on there if there is any question.

-Charlie