1engineer
Moderator
My friend, have you ever even looked underneath your 4Runner at the rear suspension?
Question | Bilstein 5100's for leveling
- Thread starter Rocco777
- Start date
My friend, have you ever even looked underneath your 4Runner at the rear suspension?
STX4Runner
New member
They are not long enough because the rear lift spacer increases the distance from the axle to the frame, thus the shock is stretched out more to fill this distance than without the lift. Due to this, when you go over bumps the shock will stretch to its limits and make a thunk noise which is not good. The rear Bilsteins aren't expensive; if you're going to lift it you should at least spend the extra $180 or so on the rear shocks.
Good feedback, thank you. I just read up on the X-REAS suspension and it seems some dealers advise on going to more of a 'standard' shock because of the heavy costs of servicing X-REAS?
I'm not thrilled with removing an expensive system like this, but I can't stand the amount of rake the 4R has in stock form. I'm certainly not looking for anything too aggressive... just a clean leveled look.
1engineer
Moderator
Then get some little spacers for the front, keep the XREAS and call it a day lol.
hrod79
New member
I agree with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]. If you have X-REAS and don't like the idea of removing them then go with your gut and just forget the Bilstiens. Just go with a spacer for the front and you will be level. Just remember you are stretching the front suspension and not adding any additional travel. So on road you should be fine however if you do anything that could cause your suspension to stretch i.e. off roading, you run the risk of causing the stock shock in the front to extend to the full extension and basically bottom out before the suspension extends fully. This could cause damage. Of course this is an unlikely scenario if you will be staying on the pavement.
Good luck with your decision.
Helix26404
New member
I have Bilstein 5100s all around with no lift and BFG KOs 285/55/20s. Early on they rubbed a bit when turning, but I think the tire won the battle with the plastic. 
I removed my XREAS as a part of this project. It's not that hard at all. Mainly it can be a bit messy if you don't open the valves on the shocks VERY quickly (it will spray everywhere). Also, you need to remove the lines with the side you are working on jacked up, to reduce the fluid pressure on that specific shock.
I removed my XREAS as a part of this project. It's not that hard at all. Mainly it can be a bit messy if you don't open the valves on the shocks VERY quickly (it will spray everywhere). Also, you need to remove the lines with the side you are working on jacked up, to reduce the fluid pressure on that specific shock.
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I have Bilstein 5100s all around with no lift and BFG KOs 285/55/20s. Early on they rubbed a bit when turning, but I think the tire won the battle with the plastic.
I removed my XREAS as a part of this project. It's not that hard at all. Mainly it can be a bit messy if you don't open the valves on the shocks VERY quickly (it will spray everywhere). Also, you need to remove the lines with the side you are working on jacked up, to reduce the fluid pressure on that specific shock.
Thanks, [MENTION=73441]Helix26404[/MENTION] I was hoping a member that has/had the XREAS would chime in. Your 4R looks awesome and it's exactly the look I'm going for. Appreciate the help!
eddiebx
New member
Increasing the rear end height by X amt, means X amt less in available shock travel. Longer 5100 shocks in the rear increase the travel to make up for that so you don't top out your shocks too early since you'd be missing that much travel due to spacers.
T4R_Finally
New member
Nope. I am going under assumption that spacers are mounted between the shock mount point and the vehicle, lifting the vehicle and leaving the mount point where it was. I guess I'm incorrect on that assumption.
However, given that I've already said I'm probably not going to do any sort of lift/spacer in the rear, I'm now looking for any good reason to replace anything at the rear vs. just putting bilsteins on the front to level it.
Here's a 14 TE set at 2" on the fronts and just the shock upgrade on the back. Fenders measure 35" to top of front and rear with a couple hundred pounds of gear in the back. But visually it does look slightly tail down.
This is exactly what I want to do. Looks great, funtional.
T4R_Finally
New member
Here's a 14 TE set at 2" on the fronts and just the shock upgrade on the back. Fenders measure 35" to top of front and rear with a couple hundred pounds of gear in the back. But visually it does look slightly tail down.
Okay, this is a TE and I have SR5 and it's a 14 and I have 11, and I know there was some initial confusion on the actual front shock settings, but I think it was settled that it's actually 1.75" on the front. So, how is it level with no rear lift? I thought the front should be .85 to level a stock?
Helix26404
New member
Let me know if you hit any trouble. I did this a couple of years ago so I can't quite remember step by step, but essentially you just cut, drain, and rip the lines out. It's not a very complicated system believe it or not.
proquip
New member
@T4R_Finally, I get the feeling you don't read the responses directed at you, like in the other thread a couple of days ago.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/164432-toyotec-3-spacer-kit-issues-2.html#post1650495
T4R_Finally
New member
I am correct that my SR5 would not have XREAS, right?
I believe the set I have the link to below is what I need. But in the description it says: "Note: Will have a Stamped Steel "Black" lower spring plate and "Black" dust cap & No front top stem bushings." I do not need the top stem bushings correct?
Bilstein 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable Shocks Toyota 4 Runner 2010 2014 | eBay
I believe the set I have the link to below is what I need. But in the description it says: "Note: Will have a Stamped Steel "Black" lower spring plate and "Black" dust cap & No front top stem bushings." I do not need the top stem bushings correct?
Bilstein 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable Shocks Toyota 4 Runner 2010 2014 | eBay
T4R_Finally
New member
Proquip, obviously I have been looking and posting a lot of threads. Thanks for reminding me of this, but if you read thru these as well, it shouldn't be hard to see why I keep getting confused. One person says .85, the next person posts a pic showing them set at 1.75".
Hey, I'm not trying to be a total dumbass about this, but I want to get it right. I bought my Dad's Chevy truck last year and I wanted to lift and level it and bought a kit that had torsion keys for leveling the front and suspension blocks for the rear. I had my shop install it for me and the blocks on the back worked fine but the new keys took all of the flex out of the front end and it was undrivable. So, I had to take the keys back out and crank the stock bolts up as far as they could comfortably be cranked. The end result is I was never able to get the front end up high enough to level it out. So I basically had a truck that was a few inches taller overall but still had that damn fugly factory rake to it. It was an oddball 1500HD and nobody offers a lift kit for them under 6", so I had no other options since I didn't want it that high.
eddiebx
New member
Are you actually going to take my word for it if I told you the answer? Or do you plan to ask the same thing again over the next few days? :violin:
It does not come with replacement bushings, so you either reuse the ones in your current top hats or order a new set when installing your new front struts.
1engineer
Moderator
You really should spend a little time LEARNING about what you want to do so you don't get ripped off or misinformed of something. Crawl under it. Look around and you will see for yourself that the shocks and springs are in different locations in the rear. The spacer goes on springs. The shocks get nothing. In the front, shocks and springs are together. Got it?
Now, you have asked so many different questions in many different threads I'm surprised you even know what you want.
If you get Bilstein 5100's for the front, here is what will happen:
If you set it at .85, there will be just a tiny bit of rake.
If you set it at 1.75, it will be level.
If you set it at 2.5, it will be a reverse rake.
With that said, if you set it at 1.75 for level, any weight in the back seat or back like luggage or dirt or anything it will then have a reverse rake because it was level with no load. .85 has a little rake unloaded and levels out with a light load. You mentioned somewhere that you wanted to lift it (which means the whole vehicle) so to do that you can use the 5100's in front and spacers in the rear, or new springs in the rear. Either way.
Finally, you want to change the rear shocks when you change the front so you won't have 2 new and 2 worn for ride quality. Bilstein's are better than OEM so it's an upgrade.
eddiebx
New member
You're getting confused because you're relying TOO much on everyone else's posts for precise answers specific to your exact setup. Some people have 3rd row, some people have sliding cargo tray, some people have nada. All this extra weight in the rear gives people different heights in the rear to compensate for.
ie. a guy with a 3rd row might only need to bump up the front 0.85 to get close to level vs. the guy with no 3rd row or tray needing closer to 1.75" to get to level. On the other hand a guy with a 3rd row might end up with reverse rake if set at 1.75". And let's not forget the people who just suck at measuring properly.
What I am trying to say is, take the information as a rough guideline and use your brain to make an educated decision. You've already gotten tons of great information and feedback from a lot of members here, the balls in your court now, lol.
If you NEED to have it exactly at some height in order to be happy, then maybe you just need adjustable coilovers, since pre-set perches just might not satisfy you.
T4R_Finally
New member
Guys, I beg you to cut me a break here. 1engineer, you are correct, when I first started asking questions, I didn't know what I wanted. But then someone posted a link to a spacer kit with "Toyo" in the name and the kit description said "all that is needed". So, at that price, I was going to go with it and go bigger on the tires. Then I read other posts and saw talk about replacing UCA's, etc. Anyway, blah, blah, blah - I then decided to just level it with the 5100's in the front and keep the stock tire size. But then I read conflicting info on what to set the 5100's to to level it.
I now get why you should go with longer shocks on the rear if putting in spacers. I guess I can also see why it would be good to consider changing the rear shocks along with the front, after 3 years and 46k miles of wear. I wouldn't put 2 new tires on it and leave 2 old ones, why do the same with the shocks.
Since the rear shocks are good for up to 2" of lift and they aren't adjustable like the front ones are, is it possible you get a little bit of lift up in the rear when replacing with the 5100's?
You guys keep suggesting I do more research and read more, and then you flame me when I keep posting questions. I can crawl under there all I want, it won't help as much as getting answers here from people that have done it already.
My tires are at the wear bars, and if I'm not going to lift it, then time is not so much of the essence. But when I was thinking about lifting, I was sort of trying to get as much info as quickly as I could, so I could order what I need and then get new tires.
I now get why you should go with longer shocks on the rear if putting in spacers. I guess I can also see why it would be good to consider changing the rear shocks along with the front, after 3 years and 46k miles of wear. I wouldn't put 2 new tires on it and leave 2 old ones, why do the same with the shocks.
Since the rear shocks are good for up to 2" of lift and they aren't adjustable like the front ones are, is it possible you get a little bit of lift up in the rear when replacing with the 5100's?
You guys keep suggesting I do more research and read more, and then you flame me when I keep posting questions. I can crawl under there all I want, it won't help as much as getting answers here from people that have done it already.
My tires are at the wear bars, and if I'm not going to lift it, then time is not so much of the essence. But when I was thinking about lifting, I was sort of trying to get as much info as quickly as I could, so I could order what I need and then get new tires.
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3wbdriver
New member
I sincerely apologize for the confusion and have edited that post to correct it. As pictured there is a 40 pound tool box and about 100 pounds of personal gear in the cargo area over the rear axle. I have yet to take a picture of it unloaded to see what it might look like. I went with the settings I did after seeing ChrisTheSwede's 4R with 1.75" front/0 rear. His looked like the rear end was slightly taller than the front and he admits to a slight forward rake when it's not loaded. I honestly thought I had gone 1 notch higher to cover that rake, but I guess my normal work load is doing it for me. You might try measuring from the ground to the upper center lip of your front and rear fenders to see what the difference is.
