Question | Bilstein 5100's for leveling

I sincerely apologize for the confusion and have edited that post to correct it. As pictured there is a 40 pound tool box and about 100 pounds of personal gear in the cargo area over the rear axle. I have yet to take a picture of it unloaded to see what it might look like. I went with the settings I did after seeing ChrisTheSwede's 4R with 1.75" front/0 rear. His looked like the rear end was slightly taller than the front and he admits to a slight forward rake when it's not loaded. I honestly thought I had gone 1 notch higher to cover that rake, but I guess my normal work load is doing it for me. You might try measuring from the ground to the upper center lip of your front and rear fenders to see what the difference is.

3wb, nothing to apologize for. You originally said 2" in front, which isn't possible, but it's still not .85, so that's what threw me. I have the sliding cargo tray (which I find totally useless) and I keep a set of jumper cables, a couple of towels to throw on seats for wet or sweaty kids, and an umbrella. 99% of the time, that's all that will be back there other than a week's worth of groceries. I'd prefer no rake but would rather have a slight rake than a noticeable reverse rake. I'll communicate that to my shop when I have them install the shocks and tires.

4Runners on dealer lots were hard to come by when I first started shopping for mine. I wanted Silver and I had to get the dealer to go find it. It happened to have the cargo tray in it and that wasn't a deal breaker for me, so I bought it. Have never used it though.

By the way - Yours is a sharp looking rig! If it has any reverse rake, I don't see it.
 
Dude no one's flaming you but trying to understand things for yourself will make this process much easier on everyone. I of all people know that we all start somewhere, and we naturally all have questions; but knowing what you're asking about goes a lot further vs. just asking and asking and not fully comprehending the basics.

I am a perfect example...I've the faintest clue about 4x4 trucks when I started visiting this forum. I bought a trail edition solely because I liked how the black trim looked for goodness sake, lol.

Yet somehow I managed to decide on all my lift parts and installed it by myself just from doing a lot of researching and reading on this forum; and only asked a few questions along the way just to get reassurance that I'm understanding things correctly.

A lot of the information everyone is feeding you right now is all already on here and has been covered over and over again in the past. I know this for a fact because I read exactly all those things on my own last year when I was researching.
 
Everyone has their own processes for understanding things. Just when I think I understand something, I see something that conflicts it, so I want to clarify and verify. Take the spacers for example. I created a thread and someone posts a link to the spacer kit, I read the description and it says "all that is needed". Nothing is mentioned about a floaty (read scary) ride or the need for replacing UCA's. I actually picked up on that when I read a post regarding Daystar spacers, so I create another thread to see if it's something to be concerned about with Toyotec - sure enough, it is. So, I decide Bilsteins are probably the better bet, but then I read that they should be set to .85 yet another person posts a pic showing what appears to be a perfectly level, non-lifted 4runner and says the fronts are set at 1.75.

The only thing I have been curious about that I may have been able to answer myself, was the rear shocks with the spacers. But even then, I wouldn't have realized it until I saw where the spacers actually get installed.

Look, I see redundant topics posted all the time. I'll either politely refer the person to where the information is covered, if I know where, or I just move on assuming someone will eventually address it. Or, heaven forbid, sometimes I actually just go ahead and address it again even though I know it has been covered time and again. If people have no reason to post here, because everything has been asked and answered before, this site would become nothing but a ghost town repository where people come to do searches. Everyone has done searches before and everyone knows how frustrating and time-consuming it can be. Sometimes there is no one right answer to questions or how-to's and sometimes people just give flat wrong information. You have to hope for various responses and then logically put it all together.

I'll put an end to this on my behalf, finally. I'm buying the full set of bilsteins and I'm ordering a set of Nitto Terra Grapplers in P265/70R17. I'll have my shop adjust the front shocks to as close to level as possible without ending up with the front higher than the back.

I do appreciate the information and patience, as thin as it has obviously gotten at this point.
 
It's not about reposts. What you're asking is very subjective and can vary from one truck to the next. No two trucks sit exactly the same. Handling, also very subjective. My Land Cruiser on big mud tires, driveshaft vibrations and negative caster would make most people here cry. But I'm used to it and it seems normal. The 4Runner is like driving a luxury sedan in comparison.

Ride height is simple. Have you even measured your truck? Do some due diligence. Don't just ask how much lift you need. It's like the guys that post threads asking what color truck to buy. Go out and measure from the ground to your front fender. Do the same for the rear. The difference is how much taller the front is from the rear. Amazing.
 
I want to thank you for not pm'ing me to tell me I am a big ol meany and I hurt their feelings lol. I really out to publish the top 50 of those one of these days.

Glad you made a decision. You chose a very safe and probably the most reliable and durable option to lift. If I ever have the inclination to lift one again I would do your choice, with different springs in the back to raise the rear up a bit.
 
Proquip, obviously I have been looking and posting a lot of threads. Thanks for reminding me of this, but if you read thru these as well, it shouldn't be hard to see why I keep getting confused. One person says .85, the next person posts a pic showing them set at 1.75".

Hey, I'm not trying to be a total dumbass about this, but I want to get it right. I bought my Dad's Chevy truck last year and I wanted to lift and level it and bought a kit that had torsion keys for leveling the front and suspension blocks for the rear. I had my shop install it for me and the blocks on the back worked fine but the new keys took all of the flex out of the front end and it was undrivable. So, I had to take the keys back out and crank the stock bolts up as far as they could comfortably be cranked. The end result is I was never able to get the front end up high enough to level it out. So I basically had a truck that was a few inches taller overall but still had that damn fugly factory rake to it. It was an oddball 1500HD and nobody offers a lift kit for them under 6", so I had no other options since I didn't want it that high.


Don't sweat it. Having been on a couple of different forums, the general consensus here is to make sure you invest the time upfront and research a bit. Yes, there's a ton of information in the forum that can overwhelm someone new to the 4Runner. By then however, you've seen enough to have a sense of what you want and like, and then your questions are more targetted. That's generally when those that have been around for a while while chime in.

What I will say is that most people offering input are well versed in the current 4Runner and the many options, so provided you offer direction on what you're realistically looking to accomplish and how much you're willing spend, you'll get sound (and fairly consistent) advice.

By now you've figured out that Bilsteins are better than spacers, that a mild lift (1-2") will keep you level without requiring new UCAs and still provide enough lift to clear road-friendly, P-metric 285s on stock rims. If you ever decide you want more lift, the Bilsteins are still viable options.

Finally, many of the aftermarket vendors that are also forum sponsors, like Toytec or MetalTech, are very highly regarded. Toytec sells many of the lift options we've been discussing and they would have provided very objective feedback on your situation if you had called them to look into it. Again, just providing input where I think it might help. Good luck with the upgrades, and to Eddie's point below, make sure that when the time comes, you pay it forward by offering input on the next newb looking for a lift, new tires, etc. :keyboard:

And to the OP, [MENTION=107731]Rocco777[/MENTION], sorry for the thread hijack!
 
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Let me know if you hit any trouble. I did this a couple of years ago so I can't quite remember step by step, but essentially you just cut, drain, and rip the lines out. It's not a very complicated system believe it or not.

Or you could just unbolt them,disconnect them at the 4 check valves so you don't lose any fluid and they can be sold or reused.It's all in the repair manual.
Here's every part to the XREAS system and has less then 5k miles on it . Still has the toytec spacers painted black on the fronts and never lost a drop of fluid.
Picture044.jpg~original


I'm actually going to put mine back on for a couple of weeks here before long so I can send my Icon Remotes to be rebuilt and upgraded with CDVC compression adjusters as they have almost 70k miles on them now and are due.This time I'm going to leave the hydraulic lines and reservoirs on as they only weigh a couple of pounds,are up out of the way and you can cap the ends with the check valves. Just remove the shocks when I put the Icons back on.
 
And to the OP, [MENTION=107731]Rocco777[/MENTION], sorry for the thread hijack!

Yeh, I did acknowledge the hijacking on the first page but I only did so after the OP seemed to have gotten the answer he was seeking.

If you look at the 2 or 3 threads where I have been posting on this topic, you see where some keep suggesting to do more research and due dilligence. All of it was my way of doing just that. Where else am I going to go - another forum site?

I understand the frustration with some of it. Appreciate everyone sticking it out with me. A lot of it was not knowing exactly what I wanted to do at first. I'm sure it would have been easier if I just specified that I wanted to level it out. But when that carrot (the ~$200 spacer lift) was dangled in front of me, I started to run with it. I think the level will be a pleasant look for me now that I won't catch hell for removing and/or replacing the running boards. I just really don't want that soccer mom/minivan look and feel.

So, I could really get under some skin and start a post on how to remove the running boards. But I'll resist and figure it out - I'm sure it's not hard. Hell, maybe I'll even do a search. :frisky:
 
Or you could just unbolt them,disconnect them at the 4 check valves so you don't lose any fluid and they can be sold or reused.It's all in the repair manual.
Here's every part to the XREAS system and has less then 5k miles on it . Still has the toytec spacers painted black on the fronts and never lost a drop of fluid.
Picture044.jpg~original

[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] - I'm curious on your setup. Are you just running the Toytec front spacers with the XREAS system? What size spacer is it? Any problems, ride issues, etc. that you're willing to share?

Thanks for the pic as well!
 
Yeh, I did acknowledge the hijacking on the first page but I only did so after the OP seemed to have gotten the answer he was seeking.

If you look at the 2 or 3 threads where I have been posting on this topic, you see where some keep suggesting to do more research and due dilligence. All of it was my way of doing just that. Where else am I going to go - another forum site?

I understand the frustration with some of it. Appreciate everyone sticking it out with me. A lot of it was not knowing exactly what I wanted to do at first. I'm sure it would have been easier if I just specified that I wanted to level it out. But when that carrot (the ~$200 spacer lift) was dangled in front of me, I started to run with it. I think the level will be a pleasant look for me now that I won't catch hell for removing and/or replacing the running boards. I just really don't want that soccer mom/minivan look and feel.

So, I could really get under some skin and start a post on how to remove the running boards. But I'll resist and figure it out - I'm sure it's not hard. Hell, maybe I'll even do a search. :frisky:

I have a new to me 4runner too and I agree that it is somewhat difficult to find the best method for a slight lift/level. Part of the problem is the wheel arches themselves are not really level. If you level your 4runner where both arches are 39" from the ground, the frame in between the wheels will be slightly reverse raked. This seems to bother some people and not bother others.

Right now, stock, I have a rake of 2" front to back when measured from the ground to the wheelwell arch. I have determined that a 1" rake would be optimal. Well if you are using bilsteins - that falls in between the .85" and 1.75" setting.

If I use the 1.75" setting then I need something to lift the rear just slightly. I have seen pictures of 4runners with the 1.75" setting and 1.5" rear spacer and it looks like just a touch too much rake to me. I would really like a 1" spacer, but it looks like 1.5" is all that is available. There is a 1" spacer from cornfed, but it is well over $100 I believe.

So now I am looking a maybe doing 2.5" up front and a saw 1.5 rear spring. I need to look in to this option more... May be tougher to get the fronts aligned correctly..

Or I may just say f it and get a 2"/1.5" spacer lift...
 
I would really like a 1" spacer, but it looks like 1.5" is all that is available. There is a 1" spacer from cornfed, but it is well over $100 I believe.

In all my reading on this topic, I read somewhere that the Daystar 1.5" spacers end up giving a realized lift of right at 1" in the rear. Not sure of the geometry or physics behind that, but maybe worth considering...
 
I have a new to me 4runner too and I agree that it is somewhat difficult to find the best method for a slight lift/level. Part of the problem is the wheel arches themselves are not really level. If you level your 4runner where both arches are 39" from the ground, the frame in between the wheels will be slightly reverse raked. This seems to bother some people and not bother others.

The biggest difference I noticed right off the bat was that I felt like I was sitting in a spaceship ready for take off when the front was lifted to match the rear fender well gap. Not sure how the frame level measured out like that, but the perfectly "leveled" cabin feel was unbearable for me, lol.

Another thing I noticed was that at many angles the truck actually looked reverse raked even though the fender well gaps measured out to be completely even. Might be the mind playing tricks on me though.

I think like you were saying to be safe keep a little bit of forward rake so it doesn't end up looking like the rear end is sagging. No one likes a saggy ass :tape:
 
Just putting it out there.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...h-gen-traxda-1-25-rear-spring-spacer-$75.html



I have a new to me 4runner too and I agree that it is somewhat difficult to find the best method for a slight lift/level. Part of the problem is the wheel arches themselves are not really level. If you level your 4runner where both arches are 39" from the ground, the frame in between the wheels will be slightly reverse raked. This seems to bother some people and not bother others.

Right now, stock, I have a rake of 2" front to back when measured from the ground to the wheelwell arch. I have determined that a 1" rake would be optimal. Well if you are using bilsteins - that falls in between the .85" and 1.75" setting.

If I use the 1.75" setting then I need something to lift the rear just slightly. I have seen pictures of 4runners with the 1.75" setting and 1.5" rear spacer and it looks like just a touch too much rake to me. I would really like a 1" spacer, but it looks like 1.5" is all that is available. There is a 1" spacer from cornfed, but it is well over $100 I believe.

So now I am looking a maybe doing 2.5" up front and a saw 1.5 rear spring. I need to look in to this option more... May be tougher to get the fronts aligned correctly..

Or I may just say f it and get a 2"/1.5" spacer lift...
 
Corned makes a 1" rear spacer. [MENTION=93558]CentcomPete[/MENTION] is running 1.75" bills up front 5100s out back and a 1" corned spacer
 
Corned makes a 1" rear spacer. [MENTION=93558]CentcomPete[/MENTION] is running 1.75" bills up front 5100s out back and a 1" corned spacer

2.5 front 1" Cornfed driver side only looks like this and has 5/8 rake.
 

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.... I'll have my shop adjust the front shocks to as close to level as possible without ending up with the front higher than the back.
.

Your shop doesn't know "level" any more than all the members who've participated in this discussion. I'm afraid "level" is a little ambiguous on our 4Rs -- what one guy (me @ .85) thinks is level, the next guy (3wbdriver @ 1.75) will think is level. There is a certain amount of aesthetic involved.

Just so you know; Your shop will have to completely install and set your truck down to see what it looks like. If you want it higher/lower, it's gonna be a complete do-over -- those shocks don't adjust on the truck.

.... I think like you were saying to be safe keep a little bit of forward rake so it doesn't end up looking like the rear end is sagging. No one likes a saggy ass :tape:

I agree with [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] (just this one time). I used .85 to get rid of almost all the rake, but I wanted to keep just a tad of rake for when I put a lot of shite in the back, which I do. Works for me.

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