Question- Can steering wheel be adjusted without dropping Rack?

[SocalRunner15]

Hey guys,

I recently put in a new steering rack but unfortunately messed up a bit on the install. The steering wheel is pointing at 5 oclock instead of the regular 12, so i need to adjust it before having it aligned (as per the alignment shop).

Will i need to undo everything and fully drop the rack? Or can the splined section be adjusted without needing to undo everything?

This is on a 2000 4runner limited...Rack is OEM...

 

[mtbtim]

You can adjust it without dropping the steering rack. Start with both wheels pointing straight ahead. Get under the rig and loosen both pinch bolts above and below the steering shaft rag joint. With someone helping you in the driver seat holding the steering wheel, you slide the rag joint off the splines of the steering rack gear. The person helping turns the steering wheel until it is straight and then you bring the rag joint back down onto the steering rack gear and tighten both pinch bolts. You'll get it close, but it will probably be slightly off one direction of the other. The alignment tech will be able to get it straighter by adjusting the outer tie rods when dialing in your toe.

 

[SocalRunner15]

You can adjust it without dropping the steering rack. Start with both wheels pointing straight ahead. Get under the rig and loosen both pinch bolts above and below the steering shaft rag joint. With someone helping you in the driver seat holding the steering wheel, you slide the rag joint off the splines of the steering rack gear. The person helping turns the steering wheel until it is straight and then you bring the rag joint back down onto the steering rack gear and tighten both pinch bolts. You'll get it close, but it will probably be slightly off one direction of the other. The alignment tech will be able to get it straighter by adjusting the outer tie rods when dialing in your toe.

I just wanted to let you know that i love you :thanks:

 

[NegroTundra]

An even easier option is to adjust the steering wheel itself. First, disconnect the negative battery cable (important!). There are two round plastic covers on the sides of the steering wheel column. Pop those out and you will find a Torx screw. Unscrew both of those and then pull the airbag assembly out of the wheel. This reveals the assembly nut that keep the steering wheel mated to the steering column. Remove this nut, then get a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. It is a splined assembly, so rotate the wheel accordingly, then reinstall.

Its pretty easy, I can do the whole process in less than 5minutes, and the best part is you can do it all while seated and never crawl under the truck!

 

[phattyduck]

An even easier option is to adjust the steering wheel itself. First, disconnect the negative battery cable (important!). There are two round plastic covers on the sides of the steering wheel column. Pop those out and you will find a Torx screw. Unscrew both of those and then pull the airbag assembly out of the wheel. This reveals the assembly nut that keep the steering wheel mated to the steering column. Remove this nut, then get a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. It is a splined assembly, so rotate the wheel accordingly, then reinstall.

Its pretty easy, I can do the whole process in less than 5minutes, and the best part is you can do it all while seated and never crawl under the truck!

Bad idea. The steering wheel needs to be centered in the travel of the clock spring - and moving it ~1/2 a turn the wrong way can cause problems down the line.

This is all assuming that the steering wheel only got turned that ~1/2 turn during the original install...

-Charlie

 

[SocalRunner15]

So i ended up doing it, but it was a little trickier than expected. It can be done without the rack being loosened or dropped, but its probably worthwhile to loosen up the main bolts on the rack. The main issue i had was getting the splined parts off- clearance is one problem (i had to use a bit of leverage) and if the parts are rusted on, thats another big problem. I had to use some hammering to get things off.

If i had to do it all over again, i'd probably remove the main rack bolts to have a bit of play and then adjust.

All in all, things are working beautifully now. The old steering had almost 300k on it and i put in a new oem one (got it for 425 or so last year during a sale)

 

[mtbtim]

So i ended up doing it, but it was a little trickier than expected. It can be done without the rack being loosened or dropped, but its probably worthwhile to loosen up the main bolts on the rack. The main issue i had was getting the splined parts off- clearance is one problem (i had to use a bit of leverage) and if the parts are rusted on, thats another big problem. I had to use some hammering to get things off.

If i had to do it all over again, i'd probably remove the main rack bolts to have a bit of play and then adjust.

All in all, things are working beautifully now. The old steering had almost 300k on it and i put in a new oem one (got it for 425 or so last year during a sale)

Yeah, rust will make what I suggested much harder.