Hi folks. I'm swapping out the front swaybar end links and I can't find any info on where the lower threaded square washer goes. It seems to be somewhat threaded but I don't know how far down the threads it goes when installing it. I replaced them once already and those washers seemed to strip out which caused the links to be loose again. I must've done something wrong... I'm not even sure it goes on the inside! Can someone help? Maybe post that page out of the FSM so I know where they go? Thanks!
QUESTION? Installing new front Swaybar end links... need help!
- Thread starter DanRC30
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sterbenlicht
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Not sure which part you're talking about, but I took some photos of those two pages in the FSM for you.
Not sure which part you're talking about, but I took some photos of those two pages in the FSM for you.
Thanks for that. Unfortunately the FSM doesn't accurately address my question. Take a look at the pics attached. that black "washer" thing is threaded on the shaft. It seems to go on the inside, but how far in or out does it go? I think I had itall of the way in last time I installed the links and it stripped out the thread which left them loose and flopping around.
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sterbenlicht
New member
Oh, I see what you mean. I took a closer look at my truck and it looks like mine is bottomed out against the inside surface near the boot. I would assume it's only threaded for manufacturing so it can be taken all the way down to the end providing a larger flange for the end link so the end link won't dig into the control arm mounting surface. I would bottom it out completely and torque the nut down on the other side.
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Thanks for the info. I bottomed them out and tightened the nut down.
I noticed another problem with my truck... take a look at the pic below. These lines are rusted underneath the truck and leaking. The fluid is red. What is this? Any idea?
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sterbenlicht
New member
I believe those are the two rear heater hose lines. They run down and under the vehicle and back up into the floor under the passenger side. Coolant is running through them. If they're leaking, I'd get it fixed. Take a look at your coolant level and see if the reservoir is low.
Ah...yes. That would make perfect sense. Any way to tell how big of a job that would be to replace? I see them going up into the floor but I can't see if they connect to anything or if the hard lines go up into the cabin. If it's a big expensive job, I'll just terminate the lines and not let them circulate.
sterbenlicht
New member
I don't think it would be difficult at all. The only difficulty might be wiggling them around enough to get the full length of them out and doing the same putting the new ones in. They just slide into rubber hoses under the truck before going through the floor. If you look under there, you'll see the metal shield around that area, but you can see they're just normal hose clamps holding them in. I would remove the clamps at the top of the metal lines under the hood first, let whatever coolant is going to drain out of those happen up there, then disconnect them under the truck and let the rest drain out. Slap the new ones in and put the clamps on both ends and refill and burp the coolant system. That can be a tricky process sometimes but there are a few write-ups on it here that can give some advice on that.
I think the hardest part will be removing the rusty screws/bolts to get the lines off. Is it ok to temporarily close the circuit off? Maybe put a single u-shaped hose at the top to close the loop off? I need the truck this weekend and I doubt I'll have the lines in time to change it all successfully... any ideas on a quick fix? Nobody uses the back seat heating anyway... lol!
sterbenlicht
New member
Yeah, I don't think it would hurt anything to do that. You can bypass it for as long as you'd like and it won't cost you a thing. You just have to switch one of the rubber hoses to a new spot. There was a similar post made earlier by someone wondering what was missing on their truck and it had been bypassed just like you're talking about.
Look at this thread and especially at the pic:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/176248-what-am-i-missing.html
Follow the one rubber hose that is still connected and you'll see that it's just resting over to the right side of the pic not connected to anything. The other line doesn't even have a hose connected to it anymore. The reason you don't see that hose is because the angle of the pic doesn't show, but it's pulled back to the t-junction where that other rubber hose is supposed to connect. You can see it in the second pic. That hose that is contorting back to the t-junction I mentioned is the one that is supposed to connect to the bare metal line seen in the first pic. That will effectively leave both of the lines from the rear heater unit hanging open under the hood, everything still in place, and the coolant system closed off and functional.
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You mean "non-functional", right?
Yea, I think I'll go that route right now. It's free and fixes my problem. I've dumped too much time and money into this truck recently... time for a free-fix!
sterbenlicht
New member
You mean "non-functional", right?
Yea, I think I'll go that route right now. It's free and fixes my problem. I've dumped too much time and money into this truck recently... time for a free-fix!
lol no functional. The <i>coolant</i> system will still be functional as in everything still closed and circulating effectively without leaks, cooling the engine, front heat still working, etc.
And congrats on a free-fix. They don't come very often and feel awesome. It's also nice to know if you ever decide to fix the rear heat properly, it won't be bad either.
Yes, of course... I thought you were talking about the rear heater being "functional". lol!
I don't care for the rubber line "fix" as the rubber lines could eventually wear through when rubbing against the firewall which could end up stranding you somewhere... either fix it right, or shut it down is what I say...
