Quick question for timing belt change

KainDrag

KainDrag

New member
Hey guys and gals, so I'm planning on changing the timing belt and water pump and all that jazz, I just ordered this kit...

Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts 3 4 V6 15 Pieces | eBay
I've read from searching it's pretty legit, I've also ordered the harmonic balancer.

Now my questions is, most guides say to order the snap on tool YA9730 to hold the tensioner but not to buy it if you plan on replacing it. The kit says tensioner roller is that the same thing?
Thanks
 
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DONT BUY:
If you plan on changing out your old hydraulic tensioner

BUY:
If you plan on using your Existing Tensioner.

The tool is used to compress the tensioner so that you may put some kind of pin of that diameter through to keep it in place before pulling the "Grenade" Pin.
 
If recommend to just replace the tensioner as well. It's hydraulic and really easy to change since you will be in there. It can't cost too much and it will keep the belt properly tensioned
 
I do the tensioner, wp and seals every other belt change on my past cars ( corolla, pilot, bmw, several Volvos) those with hyd tensioner was able to compress the tensioner in a bench vice and put a new pin in to hold it till install
 
My experience has been that the tensioner tool is worth every penny if the existing tensioner is to be re-used. Otherwise the old tensioner has to be removed and then compressed in a vise and pinned. And, the tensioner is not easy to remove because the A/C compressor mount is exactly in the way of the tensioner mount bolts. Some have said they removed the tensioner mount bolts without messing with the compressor mount by using the right combination of universal joint sockets and socket extensions plus holding their mouth in a particular way. But, its never worked for me.
 
I used the tensioner to put my new timing belt on. I have also used it to replace sway bar links in a 1997 and 1998 k1500 Chevy.

Other members have used it to spread door jambs.
 
Guys my question was if my kit includes the said tensioner or If I need to buy It separately. I don't mind changing everything or as much as I can out. Just need know the rights parts to get
 
KainDrag said:
Guys my question was if my kit includes the said tensioner or If I need to buy It separately. I don't mind changing everything or as much as I can out. Just need know the rights parts to get
Click to expand...

It does. "Hydraulic tensioner" is in the list and it's in the picture at about 1 or 2 o'clock. The tensioner ROLLER is a different part; that is the idler that the tensioner applies pressure TO. It has that, too. You need both.

Good kit, BTW. Good seller, and that one has all you need, unless you choose to use a new crankshaft bolt, which Toyota recommends...and coolant, of course.

You definitely don't need the tensioner holder if you are changing it. You do still need to make or buy a pulley holder and you need a torque wrench good to 250 ft-lbs.
 
Last edited:
KainDrag said:
Hey guys and gals, so I'm planning on changing the timing belt and water pump and all that jazz, I just ordered this kit...

Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts 3 4 V6 15 Pieces | eBay
I've read from searching it's pretty legit, I've also ordered the harmonic balancer.

Now my questions is, most guides say to order the snap on tool YA9730 to hold the tensioner but not to buy it if you plan on replacing it. The kit says tensioner roller is that the same thing?
Thanks
Click to expand...
from your link, the list of "included items"

<TABLE class=applications cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=7 width="90%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD scope=row align=center>1</TD><TD align=left>Hydraulic Tensioner </TD><TD align=center>Toyota</TD><TD align=center>13540-62021</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

so yes, it has a tensioner, no need for the tool.
 
TheDurk said:
It does. "Hydraulic tensioner" is in the list and it's in the picture at about 1 or 2 o'clock. The tensioner ROLLER is a different part; that is the idler that the tensioner applies pressure TO. It has that, too. You need both.

Good kit, BTW. Good seller, and that one has all you need, unless you choose to use a new crankshaft bolt, which Toyota recommends...and coolant, of course.

You definitely don't need the tensioner holder if you are changing it. You do still need to make or buy a pulley holder and you need a torque wrench good to 250 ft-lbs.
Click to expand...

Yea I ordered this tool Amazon.com: Schley Products 64400 - Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - - Schley Products - 64400: Everything Else thanks to one of the diy guides and I still have to go pick up some tools today. Do you know the part number for the crankshaft bolt by chance?
 
Not sure what year your truck is, but I am about to do the timing belt/WP on my 1997 4Runner limited, and I bought the newer/updated version (started in 1999, I believe). The newer version has a built-in washer and loctite already applied, and is torqued to 217 lb/ft p/n: 90119-16006. Old crankshaft bolt is only torqued to 184 lb/ft and is p/n: 90105-16031.
 
SFsquared said:
Not sure what year your truck is, but I am about to do the timing belt/WP on my 1997 4Runner limited, and I bought the newer/updated version (started in 1999, I believe). The newer version has a built-in washer and loctite already applied, and is torqued to 217 lb/ft p/n: 90119-16006. Old crankshaft bolt is only torqued to 184 lb/ft and is p/n: 90105-16031.
Click to expand...

I have a 98 Limited, I guess I'll get the updated one as well.
 
KainDrag said:
Yea I'm just going to use the bolt meant for my 98 which is under 200lbs, it's a whole hellavelot cheaper than one that goes to 250lbs
Click to expand...
Wait, what? How much was the price difference between the old bolt and the updated bolt? I paid $7 or $9 for it at the dealership in San Jose.
 
The new bolt shows as being $5 so the difference is neligable...

Is there anything else that is recommended to be replaced other than this bolt that doesn't come with the kit linked by the OP? Any additional pulleys, seals, or anything of that matter?
 
Unner said:
The new bolt shows as being $5 so the difference is neligable...

Is there anything else that is recommended to be replaced other than this bolt that doesn't come with the kit linked by the OP? Any additional pulleys, seals, or anything of that matter?
Click to expand...

I would change the upper and lower rad hoses and you might consider the oil cooler hoses as well. They are a pain to get to but in a bad place near the exhaust. So if they have never been changed you should probably do this.
 

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I plan to change the radiator hoses as well as the radiator when I do mine. What kind of shape were those oil cooler hoses in when you pulled them off? I've seen a few posts about them, but not a lot. I don't recall anyone having issues with them either. I would just hate to replace them and have an issue with them because I messed with them. I think that's my mindset for the cam and crank seals as well, if they aren't leaking when I get in there.
 
I have changed mine out, but did it by removing the alternator and going through the wheel well. Not fun, but I really only saw a slight advantage (frees up a little more space) to performing this preventative maintenance with no timing belt so I did it at a later time.

Crank seal with the right tool takes all of maybe 10 minutes. I didn't do the cam seals since in the twenty timing belts jobs I have done over the years the bolts for the cam gears to remove can be a royal PITA. I had to use a 1" impact once. And they weren't leaking.

My advice Unner is to post a thread about two weeks or so before you do the job. You will get advice and the like. But if you have done the rear axle seal and the like, the TB job won't be hard with the right tools.

One to get ya going:
New Timing Belt Water-Pump 5vz-fe 3.4L Write-up for Review - YotaTech Forums
 
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