Quick timing belt question with PICS

Hey, call me names if you want. I just thought it was interesting that someone who claims to be...



would ask such a basic, and simple question.

The bad and incorrect info you gave about being unable to repair cylinder heads, (the thread where that quote came from) speaks volumes too.

Whether you like it or not, I will point out bad or incorrect info that could mislead members.

lol okay tough guy
 
jeremy just please stop. its fine relax

You come to the forum asking for opinion, and then you act like you didn't need any of our advice in the first place.

Let me ask you a question.....

If those marks don't matter, why do you think they're put on there from the factory?

I'll tell you why. They're there because it's possible to not get the belt stretched tight enough on the side opposite the tensioner, and when you release the tensioner the angle of the cams vs. crank isn't right.

If all three of the marks on the belt you took off don't line back up when you put it back on, you ****ed up.

Hack jobs like this are why I do my own work.
 
You come to the forum asking for opinion, and then you act like you didn't need any of our advice in the first place.

Let me ask you a question.....

If those marks don't matter, why do you think they're put on there from the factory?

I'll tell you why. They're there because it's possible to not get the belt stretched tight enough on the side opposite the tensioner, and when you release the tensioner the angle of the cams vs. crank isn't right.

If all three of the marks on the belt you took off don't line back up when you put it back on, you ****ed up.

Hack jobs like this are why I do my own work.

you just don't know when to quit do you jeremy?
 
you just don't know when to quit do you jeremy?

Obviously you don't either. If you didn't want to hear that you were making a mistake, why did you ask? :rolleyes:


I have a friend who change oil and rotates tires at a Ford dealership. He tells people he's a Ford mechanic all the time.........:bowl:
 
Obviously you don't either. If you didn't want to hear that you were making a mistake, why did you ask? :rolleyes:


I have a friend who change oil and rotates tires at a Ford dealership. He tells people he's a Ford mechanic all the time.........:bowl:

jeremy please just stay off my posts. same goes to you 02SE.
 
jeremy please just stay off my posts. same goes to you 02SE.


:lol::lol::lol:
Not a chance I'm going to sit back and watch people like you post a bunch of crap to this forum without calling it out. If you're not willing to hear about it when you're screwing up, don't post it here. :sniper:
 
"Mechanics" like this are the reason I was asked to be a mechanic at the local Toyota dealer when I was able to take all my wheel locks off my truck quickly while borrowing the dealers tool after I lost mine...

Asking for help is fine, asking for help and then berating the helpful knowledgeable members here is not fine.

Like Jeremy said, there's a reason I don't let others touch my vehicles...
 
The tension on the belt between the left and right cams are critical to your timing. If you're off a tooth on the belt then your timing will be off. That's the purpose of the timing belt marks. If it didn't matter then you could just slide the belt on "willy nilly". I believe in either the FSM or the Haynes manual they even tell you how many teeth on the belt there should be between both pulleys when at TDC. I don't have the original photo here at work with me or the FSM/Haynes. When I get home I can look at a hi res pic and see how many "teeth" are between both cam pulleys.

EDIT: I hi res pic won't do me any good. Best to go to NAPA or the dealer and look at a new belt and count the "teeth" between the marks.

EDIT 2: This is pic from my rig. I did my belt about a year ago.

For what it's worth, [MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] and [MENTION=4043]O2SE[/MENTION] are pretty well respected guys on here. I trust and appreciate their opinions and their experience with these 4Runners. This is a great forum with a lot of good wrenches.

timing belt_4.jpg
 

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Not to get in the middle of this, but there are many, many, posts on this site that are full of clichés, urban legends, and other misinformation. I rarely try to point out the BS anymore because it's too time consuming. But, I'm glad to see that others make the effort.
 
i know the slack in the belt should be towards the side of the tensioner. both cam gears are at 12 o'clock and the crank is also at 12 o' clock. so as long as they are all correct still when i pull the pin out it should be fine correct? i can turn on the harmonic balancer bolt to make sure everything is still correct after i pull the pin. these are non interference motors so it should cause no damage. the markings on the belt are just there to give you an idea if everything is correctly done. correct me if i am wrong?
 
Not to get in the middle of this, but there are many, many, posts on this site that are full of clichés, urban legends, and other misinformation. I rarely try to point out the BS anymore because it's too time consuming. But, I'm glad to see that others make the effort.

I'm just trying to help.

There is tons of misinformation posted. I don't have the time or inclination to respond to it all.

When someone posts misinformation, and does so under the guise that someone could assume means they should have a clue, which lends credence to their post, then it's time to say something.
 
i know the slack in the belt should be towards the side of the tensioner. both cam gears are at 12 o'clock and the crank is also at 12 o' clock. so as long as they are all correct still when i pull the pin out it should be fine correct? i can turn on the harmonic balancer bolt to make sure everything is still correct after i pull the pin. these are non interference motors so it should cause no damage. the markings on the belt are just there to give you an idea if everything is correctly done. correct me if i am wrong?

Non-interference - exactly our point. You won't know if you're off or not until you start it up and it pings and detonates because your timing is off. You're dealing with a finely tuned DOHC with a belt that has less than 0.1 percent total length change for a reason.

The purpose for the marks on your belt is to POSITIVELY ENSURE your cams are in tune with your crankshaft. The last pulley to install...for a reason...is the #2 Idler pulley. Hopefully you replaced your WP, #1 and #2 idler pulleys during your recent belt change.

I'm home now and the Haynes manual clearly states on 2B-8, item 17 - "If you plan to re-use the timing belt and the marks were worn off, place a new mark on the belt at the EXACT location of each timing mark on each sprocket..."

Your call... I would drive to NAPA, bring my own belt with nail polish, order a belt and absolutely mirror the marks exactly. That's if it were mine. It's not. good luck
 
Non-interference - exactly our point. You won't know if you're off or not until you start it up and it pings and detonates because your timing is off. You're dealing with a finely tuned DOHC with a belt that has less than 0.1 percent total length change for a reason.

The purpose for the marks on your belt is to POSITIVELY ENSURE your cams are in tune with your crankshaft. The last pulley to install...for a reason...is the #2 Idler pulley. Hopefully you replaced your WP, #1 and #2 idler pulleys during your recent belt change.

I'm home now and the Haynes manual clearly states on 2B-8, item 17 - "If you plan to re-use the timing belt and the marks were worn off, place a new mark on the belt at the EXACT location of each timing mark on each sprocket..."

Your call... I would drive to NAPA, bring my own belt with nail polish, order a belt and absolutely mirror the marks exactly. That's if it were mine. It's not. good luck

I have to disagree with this. The marks on the belt are an aid to getting it right the first time, but they are not indispensable. The POSITIVELY ENSURE part is when you do the final check after rotating the CS twice after pulling the pin, and the belt marks are irrelevant at that point. If the hard marks line up then, it doesn't matter how you got there--you have it right. If I had a belt with no marks, I'd just go ahead and do it without them. I'm sure I'd get it right. Haynes can suck it.
 
I have to disagree with this. The marks on the belt are an aid to getting it right the first time, but they are not indispensable. The POSITIVELY ENSURE part is when you do the final check after rotating the CS twice after pulling the pin, and the belt marks are irrelevant at that point. If the hard marks line up then, it doesn't matter how you got there--you have it right. If I had a belt with no marks, I'd just go ahead and do it without them. I'm sure I'd get it right. Haynes can suck it.

yeah i don't see how the belt markings can THAT important. i know the belt is facing the correct way is that makes any sense. like i know i don't need to take the belt off and reverse it because of the markings i did last time.
 
Non-interference - exactly our point. You won't know if you're off or not until you start it up and it pings and detonates because your timing is off. You're dealing with a finely tuned DOHC with a belt that has less than 0.1 percent total length change for a reason.

The purpose for the marks on your belt is to POSITIVELY ENSURE your cams are in tune with your crankshaft. The last pulley to install...for a reason...is the #2 Idler pulley. Hopefully you replaced your WP, #1 and #2 idler pulleys during your recent belt change.

I'm home now and the Haynes manual clearly states on 2B-8, item 17 - "If you plan to re-use the timing belt and the marks were worn off, place a new mark on the belt at the EXACT location of each timing mark on each sprocket..."

Your call... I would drive to NAPA, bring my own belt with nail polish, order a belt and absolutely mirror the marks exactly. That's if it were mine. It's not. good luck

that does sound like a good idea with taking it to a parts store/ toyota and matching it up. i didn't replace either pulleys as they are fine and this timing belt will be replaced much earlier than the recommended milage/years. this truck has been a project for way to long and i just need to get it moving right now as i am moving 1,300 miles in a couple months
 
I have to disagree with this. The marks on the belt are an aid to getting it right the first time, but they are not indispensable. The POSITIVELY ENSURE part is when you do the final check after rotating the CS twice after pulling the pin, and the belt marks are irrelevant at that point. If the hard marks line up then, it doesn't matter how you got there--you have it right. If I had a belt with no marks, I'd just go ahead and do it without them. I'm sure I'd get it right. Haynes can suck it.

i did replace the water pump and thermostat
 
Agree with Durk. I never use marks on TB, they are irrelevant. I think it's tons easier to just line up the crank and cams, then put the belt on tightly from crank around counterclockwise and end at the tensioner. Sometimes I turn a cam 1/2 tooth counterclockwise to help give a little slack toward the tensioner or 2nd cam (passenger side). You will find that putting on the belt is much easier. In fact, some vehicles you have to do that in order to get it timed correctly (Acura Legend).

Works every time. All the times I've used marks on the belt, it's been much harder.

Haynes sucks. They write their books as a general procedure for every car with little changes.
 
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If I had a belt with no marks, I'd just go ahead and do it without them. I'm sure I'd get it right. Haynes can suck it.

I'm sure you would too, because you're' good like that! One of the best. After my last belt change I must have rotated that damn engine by hand at least 20 times to make sure everything was right. OCD I guess.
 
I have to disagree with this. The marks on the belt are an aid to getting it right the first time, but they are not indispensable. The POSITIVELY ENSURE part is when you do the final check after rotating the CS twice after pulling the pin, and the belt marks are irrelevant at that point. If the hard marks line up then, it doesn't matter how you got there--you have it right. If I had a belt with no marks, I'd just go ahead and do it without them. I'm sure I'd get it right. Haynes can suck it.

Yep.

For the record, my comments in this thread weren't about T-belt marks. Rather, they were about the fact that a competent Mechanic would know the answer to the question. I've seen some cheap, and/or counterfeit T-belts that had the timing marks wrong. Also, T-belt marks even if they are placed correctly, wear off over time.

The timing marks on the cam(s) and crank are the determining factor. As long as those line up at TDC every time, the cam timing is correct. Any competent Mechanic would know that.
 
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