Radiator bypass...

[Jayzero911]

With a item that has a fail rate that it does you cant just say replace it and forget it. In all reality you may be right, but Ive read guys posts where they had a blown radiator at under 75,000 just like the one at 175,000. For some never. I dont care for the risk involved, so it makes perfect sense to remove the risk.

I agree, I have been having nightmares after seeing a few too many pink milkshakes on this forum a few days ago. If I was still looking at the rig as my landlords then whatever, but its practically mine sometime in the next year. So I am doing small mods in the next few days. Deckplate Airbox mod, relocating the diff breather, Trac shut off switch, and changing the TB gasket to one from a supercharged Tundra when I clean the MAP and TB. When I get to the tranny flush I want to add a cooler. Then if I ever do end up with funny color coolant, I wont have to play the guessing game. Is it oil and water? tranny fluid and water? both?

 

[Jayzero911]

Sorry my last post was all over the place, so a few questions cuz this is now closer to happening than I thought. (Thx LittleCaesar in another forum) So questions, is the temp sensor a normal thing with cooler kits? and living in Mesa AZ with the few rare trips to Flag, Prescott, Payson to see snow, do I need one if its not included? and what temp rang should I look for? Also kit recommendations? I can probably get away with something in the $50 range. The one in charge of the money mite just :lmao: at me over the $75 and up.:cry2: lol

~Edit~ I already plan to mount the cooler in the center in front of the condenser.

 

[RonMAIDEN]

I inspect my radiator once a year real good around the tranny lines and also when I flush the system so I'm sure I'd catch any signs of corrosion happening and living in a dry climate and with my truck seeing only about 4000 miles a year I'd have no worries simply using the OEM tranny cooler/radiator which I will have a new one installed next month replacing my 173,000 mile original.
If I had cooling problems or towed I'd go with the external but sometimes I do consider removing the risk since anything can happen but not too worried with a new radiator.
What's funny with all the guys I've known personally with 3rd gen 4Runners (and corresponding Tacomas) in Colorado (over the last 9 years) I don't know one that has had the pink milkshake afflict them,maybe we're lucky but I'm sure the frequency is higher in the rust belt states.

 

[Drcoffee]

As far as PS cooler, consider whats cooling it now...nothing, so anything is better than nothing. Most PS coolers are very small. I just went with what I have because I already owned it.

Not quite right. The engine is running at 180-190* but that's inside the engine block. The water in the radiator is much cooler. So the radiator is actually keeping your tranny temps below 170.
:hatsoff:

 

[ajonesnv]

I inspect my radiator once a year real good around the tranny lines and also when I flush the system so I'm sure I'd catch any signs of corrosion happening and living in a dry climate and with my truck seeing only about 4000 miles a year I'd have no worries simply using the OEM tranny cooler/radiator which I will have a new one installed next month replacing my 173,000 mile original.
If I had cooling problems or towed I'd go with the external but sometimes I do consider removing the risk since anything can happen but not too worried with a new radiator.
What's funny with all the guys I've known personally with 3rd gen 4Runners (and corresponding Tacomas) in Colorado (over the last 9 years) I don't know one that has had the pink milkshake afflict them,maybe we're lucky but I'm sure the frequency is higher in the rust belt states.

Im sure the percentage of the milkshake actually happening is very low, considering all the Tacos & Runners on the road, but being in an enthusiast community we obviously hear about it more because these rigs are keepers for us. If something happens we fix it and put it back on the road, we dont do cost analysis between repairs and value and cost of a new vehicle. With that said I cant handle the stress involved with the potential, when the external is a great alternative, mind you, in my area. Las Vegas doesn't see low temps, so overcooling isn't an issue.

I would caution you that the failure area is inside the lower pan of the radiator, so there is no external view of the soft spot. Which was another instigator of my decision...there is no real indicator on when or if its happening. I do wish you luck and hope that it doesn't happen. I get a little sick to my stomach when I see it happen.

 

[ajonesnv]

Not quite right. The engine is running at 180-190* but that's inside the engine block. The water in the radiator is much cooler. So the radiator is actually keeping your tranny temps below 170.
:hatsoff:

Bahhhhhhh, first off I was referring to the power Steering. Second, I realize that the radiator cools the tranny, but with out solid data, which Ive seen otherwise, the radiator does NOT cool it more effectively that an external cooler. All the data I've seen proves that the cooler works on equal ground and in my case better than the stock set-up. With that said, the discussion is not whether the or not the stock set up works, it is whether or not its worth the risk. For me no, for you maybe. To each his own.

 

[ajonesnv]

Sorry my last post was all over the place, so a few questions cuz this is now closer to happening than I thought. (Thx LittleCaesar in another forum) So questions, is the temp sensor a normal thing with cooler kits? and living in Mesa AZ with the few rare trips to Flag, Prescott, Payson to see snow, do I need one if its not included? and what temp rang should I look for? Also kit recommendations? I can probably get away with something in the $50 range. The one in charge of the money mite just :lmao: at me over the $75 and up.:cry2: lol

~Edit~ I already plan to mount the cooler in the center in front of the condenser.

I would recommend TruCool 4589 and here why; it is probably the largest you can fit in our truck with some slight modifications to the cooler mounting braces. It has an internal bypass, so you never need to worry about over cooling...as if that would ever be an issue in Mesa. But it is in the 100.00 range, however the argument for 100.00 dollars now or 1500.00 later is a simple argument to win with your money holder : plenty of guys are running the size of the B&M 70268 with no problems, but being in Las Vegas I wanted as much surface area as possible to cool with. A gauge is a wise investment as well, seeing is knowing.

 

[ajonesnv]

So I live in 120 degree AZ. I am currently running a 70268 as my tranny cooler (not in series with the radiator). Am I providing enough cooling to the tranny? Also, what type of cooler would you guys recommend for PS?

I have seen that many guys are running that fine. A major factor is how and where it is mounted. Make sure it as close to the condenser and in the flow of the fan as possible. Even mounting it less than a inch away from the condenser makes a huge difference to the air flow.

The other thing to consider is putting a temp gauge or scan gauge in your truck, so you can monitor that temps. At the end of the day its all about the temps.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

personally i did not bypass the radiator. i have personally tried both ways myself and bypassing the radiator my atf temps went back up about 20-25 degrees. so i decided to run the cooler inline with the factory cooler again and the temps when back down. i live in socal.

this is what i am using.
Koyo Radiator replacement
TRD Transcooler
redline synthetic D4 ATF

 

[ajonesnv]

You might actually be fine with the Koyo. Ive yet to hear of them failing. The TRD cooler is kind small, so I can see that not cooling as well as many other products out there. Stick with the syn ATF fluid too, it can handle higher temps mucho, mucho better than dino oil.

 

[Jayzero911]

I would recommend TruCool 4589 and here why; it is probably the largest you can fit in our truck with some slight modifications to the cooler mounting braces. It has an internal bypass, so you never need to worry about over cooling...as if that would ever be an issue in Mesa. But it is in the 100.00 range, however the argument for 100.00 dollars now or 1500.00 later is a simple argument to win with your money holder : plenty of guys are running the size of the B&M 70268 with no problems, but being in Las Vegas I wanted as much surface area as possible to cool with. A gauge is a wise investment as well, seeing is knowing.

I like the idea of the Tru Cool 4589, Yes the truck lives in Mesa but I do take it out to see snow. I was looking into installing a Temp Gauge while I was at it but I can't find a kit for that that's not the same or close to the same price of the cooler. One more question tho, I have found the Tru Cool 4589 on ebay for $76 I can live with that price but it said they are remanufactured.... should I stay away from remanufactured?

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

I like the idea of the Tru Cool 4589, Yes the truck lives in Mesa but I do take it out to see snow. I was looking into installing a Temp Gauge while I was at it but I can't find a kit for that that's not the same or close to the same price of the cooler. One more question tho, I have found the Tru Cool 4589 on ebay for $76 I can live with that price but it said they are remanufactured.... should I stay away from remanufactured?

my recommendation. get a scangauge II it will read your atf,batter volts, coolant temp and more. and since you already have an 01 the scan gauge will work in getting you correct atf temps live time.

 

[ajonesnv]

I like the idea of the Tru Cool 4589, Yes the truck lives in Mesa but I do take it out to see snow. I was looking into installing a Temp Gauge while I was at it but I can't find a kit for that that's not the same or close to the same price of the cooler. One more question tho, I have found the Tru Cool 4589 on ebay for $76 I can live with that price but it said they are remanufactured.... should I stay away from remanufactured?

I wouldn't worry too much about it being remanufactured, but my buddy bought his new with the install kit for about 79.00, so let me ask him...

...ok he said he bought it from Transmission Parts by Bulkpart Tru Cool Heavy Duty Tru-Cool LPD, thick cooler & standard installation kit The only down side was it came from FL, so it took several days. And it is brand new. I would also recommend a Magnetic in-line filter, if you have an extra 15.00 to spend.

Remember, this one has a bypass built in so the cold weather is no problem. And from all Ive read you need to be in negative degrees to really need the bypass anyways.

 

[Jayzero911]

my recommendation. get a scangauge II it will read your atf,batter volts, coolant temp and more. and since you already have an 01 the scan gauge will work in getting you correct atf temps live time.

Now that looks like a handy mod.... I will be saving up for that one, small list of mods before it lol.

Remember, this one has a bypass built in so the cold weather is no problem. And from all Ive read you need to be in negative degrees to really need the bypass anyways.

O pfff. Yeah she's not ever seeing a negative temp unless I move. But still really like the idea of this cooler cuz of the bypass, and its not too bad on the wallet. (I think I have it cleared to this mod next month) :jump:

~Edit~ nvm I do have it cleared to do next month.... guess we spent much more than that on her this month lol

 

[Jayzero911]

...ok he said he bought it from Transmission Parts by Bulkpart Tru Cool Heavy Duty Tru-Cool LPD, thick cooler & standard installation kit The only down side was it came from FL, so it took several days. And it is brand new. I would also recommend a Magnetic in-line filter, if you have an extra 15.00 to spend.

Ok, I will be going with that cooler. But I can't seem to find any info on this cooler other than dimensions. Would you know off hand or your buddy, what size the lines are in the kit (I am assuming it comes with them) so I can order the magnefine filter at the same time... rather than wait for the cooler kit t..... :rockthrow: (stay on track)...... what size inline filter would I need?

 

[ajonesnv]

Ok, I will be going with that cooler. But I can't seem to find any info on this cooler other than dimensions. Would you know off hand or your buddy, what size the lines are in the kit (I am assuming it comes with them) so I can order the magnefine filter at the same time... rather than wait for the cooler kit t..... :rockthrow: (stay on track)...... what size inline filter would I need?

The kit comes with 11/16, but I would go to autozone and get 8 feet of 3/8". It fits on the barbs a little better and it gives you the slightest bit more capacity. The magnafime will accept either hose, but since you want to be able to replace the filter after a year or so I recommend the 3/8, so it comes back off easier. The magnafine filter is listed as a 3/8 barb. That's a good size. I bought a similar filter made by Hastings that has 3/8 barbs as well, it's slightly smaller than the magnafine, which I like because space is limited with this install.

 

[Jayzero911]

The kit comes with 11/16, but I would go to autozone and get 8 feet of 3/8". It fits on the barbs a little better and it gives you the slightest bit more capacity. The magnafime will accept either hose, but since you want to be able to replace the filter after a year or so I recommend the 3/8, so it comes back off easier. The magnafine filter is listed as a 3/8 barb. That's a good size. I bought a similar filter made by Hastings that has 3/8 barbs as well, it's slightly smaller than the magnafine, which I like because space is limited with this install.

Thank you, Thank you for your helpful info :thanks: Be tackling it vary soon!!

 

[Mgyver1]

[MENTION=73515]ajonesnv[/MENTION] can we get the pictures back? :cry2: