Radiator/fan

[billyblunk3]

Has anyone done a radiator upgrade to something better? If so which one?

Also has anyone deleted the stock fan and gone with electric?

Back story: my 4runner with the 3.4 tends to run a little warm when on the freeway. 215-225 area. Which bothers me a lot. I had the water pump changed a year ago and coolant flush done by Toyota.

Any help is appreciate.

Thank you all


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[Skulking]

Has anyone done a radiator upgrade to something better? If so which one?

Also has anyone deleted the stock fan and gone with electric?

Back story: my 4runner with the 3.4 tends to run a little warm when on the freeway. 215-225 area. Which bothers me a lot. I had the water pump changed a year ago and coolant flush done by Toyota.

Any help is appreciate.

Thank you all


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When on the freeway driving or in stop and go traffic? Has it always done this or is this new? Was the thermostat replaced when they did the water pump and coolant flush? Just to get it out of the way, I'll mention that the jiggle valve on the thermostat needs to be in the 6 o'clock position, so if this has been a problem for as long as you have had the car, or started after you had the thermostat replaced that is a possible cause. If the jiggle valve is in the 12 o'clock position you will run hotter.

 

[billyblunk3]

When on the freeway driving or in stop and go traffic? Has it always done this or is this new? Was the thermostat replaced when they did the water pump and coolant flush? Just to get it out of the way, I'll mention that the jiggle valve on the thermostat needs to be in the 6 o'clock position, so if this has been a problem for as long as you have had the car, or started after you had the thermostat replaced that is a possible cause. If the jiggle valve is in the 12 o'clock position you will run hotter.

I’ll have to double check the records for it. It wasn’t a problem before but now I’m in the desert. It’s usually in the afternoon that it does this. My drive this morning it stayed at 190 the whole time.


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[snydmax]

When on the freeway driving or in stop and go traffic? Has it always done this or is this new? Was the thermostat replaced when they did the water pump and coolant flush? Just to get it out of the way, I'll mention that the jiggle valve on the thermostat needs to be in the 6 o'clock position, so if this has been a problem for as long as you have had the car, or started after you had the thermostat replaced that is a possible cause. If the jiggle valve is in the 12 o'clock position you will run hotter.

^^^ check this


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[Skulking]

I’ll have to double check the records for it. It wasn’t a problem before but now I’m in the desert. It’s usually in the afternoon that it does this. My drive this morning it stayed at 190 the whole time.


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I assume since you are able to give actual temperatures you are reading the temperature off of an OBD reader of some sort? If that's the case and you are seeing normal temps of 190, then your jiggle valve is likely correct. The jiggle valve being in the wrong orientation doesn't make you more likely to overheat, it just raises your coolant temp by 10ish degrees.

Can you be more specific about when you typically see high temperatures?

 

[jgue467]

Back story: my 4runner with the 3.4 tends to run a little warm when on the freeway. 215-225 area...

Its all been done before but the 4runners cooling system is Superb out of the box. So something is Wrong.

Based on symptoms, I'd suspect the cheapest thing first, radiator cap. If older, its not holding pressure sufficiently, as a result temps rise.

Thought it is likely not the cause of 'high' speed temp rise, I'd check the strength of the fan clutch whlle at it. Luck.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I’d replace the rad , rad cap and clutch for the cooling fan. If your temps still creep after those three are replaced it’s probably a failing head gasket


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[gamefreakgc]

Has anyone done a radiator upgrade to something better? If so which one?

Also has anyone deleted the stock fan and gone with electric?

Back story: my 4runner with the 3.4 tends to run a little warm when on the freeway. 215-225 area. Which bothers me a lot. I had the water pump changed a year ago and coolant flush done by Toyota.

Any help is appreciate.

Thank you all


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I've switched out mine with a 16" single SPAL electric fan. I don't recommend it for the average user as it's picky to set up and on one occasion I accidentally heated the engine up to 234 degrees, which is hot enough to blow a head gasket if done enough. The stock mechanical fan, if working correctly, is much more reliable.That being said, you do have more control with an e-fan. I can keep my temps sub 200 even in 100+ degree CA afternoons. In the winter, my fan never even turns on, which will tell you how much power the mechanical fan robs in cooler climates.

After double checking your radiator and fan clutch, go ahead and pick up a new OEM Toyota radiator cap and a water wetter product like Royal Purple Ice. They make a big difference in drawing heat out of the engine, I saw my temps drop by 10 degrees on hot days after adding the water wetter product.

 

[billyblunk3]

I assume since you are able to give actual temperatures you are reading the temperature off of an OBD reader of some sort? If that's the case and you are seeing normal temps of 190, then your jiggle valve is likely correct. The jiggle valve being in the wrong orientation doesn't make you more likely to overheat, it just raises your coolant temp by 10ish degrees.

Can you be more specific about when you typically see high temperatures?

I’m reading it off a scan gauge 2 through obd. Usually it’s in the afternoon when temps are above 100 outside. I was watch the “intake air temp” and the coolant temp. Intake air temp usually is around 120-130 and the. That’s when I see the higher coolant temps.


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[billyblunk3]

I've switched out mine with a 16" single SPAL electric fan. I don't recommend it for the average user as it's picky to set up and on one occasion I accidentally heated the engine up to 234 degrees, which is hot enough to blow a head gasket if done enough. The stock mechanical fan, if working correctly, is much more reliable.That being said, you do have more control with an e-fan. I can keep my temps sub 200 even in 100+ degree CA afternoons. In the winter, my fan never even turns on, which will tell you how much power the mechanical fan robs in cooler climates.

After double checking your radiator and fan clutch, go ahead and pick up a new OEM Toyota radiator cap and a water wetter product like Royal Purple Ice. They make a big difference in drawing heat out of the engine, I saw my temps drop by 10 degrees on hot days after adding the water wetter product.

Yeah I’m just trying to come up with better cooling options. I was looking at a set of fans for it. This is what I found. That’s why I was asking. Yes it’s pricey but if I’ll get better cooling out of it then that’s going to be what I want.

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[gamefreakgc]

Yeah I’m just trying to come up with better cooling options. I was looking at a set of fans for it. This is what I found. That’s why I was asking. Yes it’s pricey but if I’ll get better cooling out of it then that’s going to be what I want.


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I'm familiar with that kit. The Flex-a-lite controller is good quality but their fans are not quite as good. They put two on there since there's a higher failure rate and if one goes out you're less likely to overheat. I went with SPAL because they are the OEM supplier for many European car makers like Volkswagen and Audi. I wanted a fan that can last 100K+ miles so it's not going to fail on me when I need it. Flex-a-lite is not an OEM supplier for any car manufacturer.

If you are still set on going with an e-fan setup, as a suggestion I purchased this fan: Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing. It's a 16" that pulls up to 23 amps. Unfortunately that's more than the stock alternator can put out at idle and will kill the stock alternator within a few months and will require a bigger alt to avoid this. The Flex-a-lite kit pulls up to 19.5 amps, also a bit much for the stock alt. If you go with the SPAL fan, you'll need the gasket to mount it flush against the radiator VA18 FAN SHROUD GASKET | SPAL Automotive USA and the mounting brackets Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing.

Here's my notes and photos on trying a few install ideas before I mounted it flush and ditched the shroud: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...-supercharged-t[u]rd-build-4.html#post2916091

 

[billyblunk3]

I'm familiar with that kit. The Flex-a-lite controller is good quality but their fans are not quite as good. They put two on there since there's a higher failure rate and if one goes out you're less likely to overheat. I went with SPAL because they are the OEM supplier for many European car makers like Volkswagen and Audi. I wanted a fan that can last 100K+ miles so it's not going to fail on me when I need it. Flex-a-lite is not an OEM supplier for any car manufacturer.

If you are still set on going with an e-fan setup, as a suggestion I purchased this fan: Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing. It's a 16" that pulls up to 23 amps. Unfortunately that's more than the stock alternator can put out at idle and will kill the stock alternator within a few months and will require a bigger alt to avoid this. The Flex-a-lite kit pulls up to 19.5 amps, also a bit much for the stock alt. If you go with the SPAL fan, you'll need the gasket to mount it flush against the radiator VA18 FAN SHROUD GASKET | SPAL Automotive USA and the mounting brackets Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing.

Here's my notes and photos on trying a few install ideas before I mounted it flush and ditched the shroud: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...-supercharged-t[u]rd-build-4.html#post2916091

Awesome. I’m not dead set on it. I just want to figure out the issue. I’ll swap the rad cap today when I get home and see what happens.


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[phattyduck]

OEM only the radiator cap. Then thermostat install direction and fan clutch.

You'll get it sorted, and you won't need any upgraded parts if you don't want them. (4Runners to fine in Phoenix, though a trans cooler there would be helpful)

-Charlie

 

[billyblunk3]

OEM only the radiator cap. Then thermostat install direction and fan clutch.

You'll get it sorted, and you won't need any upgraded parts if you don't want them. (4Runners to fine in Phoenix, though a trans cooler there would be helpful)

-Charlie

If the thermostat was done then it was done by Toyota with the water pump. I know it will get sorted. It takes time. Upgrading parts that are beneficial is completely good with me. I’m just trying to get it running better. She was neglected for a little when I drove a company truck all the time. Haha.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Awesome. I’m not dead set on it. I just want to figure out the issue. I’ll swap the rad cap today when I get home and see what happens.


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All three 4Runners I bought had broken rad caps.


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[phattyduck]

If the thermostat was done then it was done by Toyota with the water pump.

Dealer techs mess up the thermostat *all the time* - 99.9% of all other engines need the jiggle valve up other than the 5vz - and how often are dealers working on 5VZs, these days?

-Charlie

 

[billyblunk3]

Dealer techs mess up the thermostat *all the time* - 99.9% of all other engines need the jiggle valve up other than the 5vz - and how often are dealers working on 5VZs, these days?

-Charlie

Yeah makes sense. I’m going to check it this weekend.


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[calimobber]

Im not sure where you live but the south west has been in a crazy head wave and temps have been way above average. Where I live its common to be 120 during the day and at those temps Ill see over 210 often but usually cools down when im driving fast and the rpms are up.

Just something to think about.

 

[billyblunk3]

Im not sure where you live but the south west has been in a crazy head wave and temps have been way above average. Where I live its common to be 120 during the day and at those temps Ill see over 210 often but usually cools down when im driving fast and the rpms are up.

Just something to think about.

I’m in southern Arizona. Yeah I see that as well but it’s usually higher like 220 area.


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[stuckinthemud]

Just last weekend I was driving uphill in the mountains in 100+ deg. My intake temp was 129 and my coolant temp only reached 205 deg. Check your cap and fan clutch. It shouldn't run that hot.