RCI Metalworks - TRD Skid Integration Plate Installed!

[Boyds4Runner]

Here are the weight spec from RCI

Aluminum-set TOTAL: 80lb
AL Front 18lb
AL Trans 14lb
AL/S T-case 22lb
AL Fuel Tank 26lb

Steel-set TOTAL: 145lb
S Front 35lb
S Trans 28lb
S T-case 30lb
S Fuel Tank 52lb

Pretty significant difference!!

My non-scientific method of weighing the items got me somewhat similar numbers. I weighed myself first then back on holding the skid and took the difference.

I did not get the Fuel tank skid...yet, and I kept the TRD Skid so the Integration one is significantly smaller than the full front RCI skid.

1/4" Aluminum Integration Skid - 9.4lbs
1/4" Aluminum Transmission Skid - 13.8lbs
1/4" Aluminum Transfer Case skid - 8.6lbs
Steel Cross-beam for Transfer Case - 15.8lbs
Associated Bolts and hardware - .2lbs

TOTAL 1/4" Aluminum Skid set - 47.8lbs (lets just call it 48lbs)

Original, steel, factory oil-pan skid (replaced by RCI Integration Skid) - 7lbs.

My net gain in weight (rounding up) turns into 41lbs of added weight.

Since this is my daily driver and realistically I won't be able to "wheel" more than 4 or 5 times a year at best, the added weight (albeit better protection) of the steel would cost me more in gas-mileage over the long-haul.

Although now I can fearlessly hop shopping mall curbs and parking stops!

 

[jicko]

Since this is my daily driver and realistically I won't be able to "wheel" more than 4 or 5 times a year at best, the added weight (albeit better protection) of the steel would cost me more in gas-mileage over the long-haul.

Although now I can fearlessly hop shopping mall curbs and parking stops!

I get the fuel tank skid cause I looked under my car, and saw that the lowest hanging "bad fruit" was actually the gas tank..... that's the reason, I bite the bullet and get that piece.....

I saw that you have the factory running board, that thing really would hold anything..... what slider are you going with? Plus a functional slide give you a great "jack" location!

 

[Boyds4Runner]

[MENTION=119516]jicko[/MENTION]

Yeah, I hear you on the fuel-tank skid. It has been heavy on my mind after seeing that long indent. I have to chip away at the cost of the first set though. Maybe by Christmas time.

Sadly I don't think I can get sliders yet since my kids are still in need of the wider platform of the factory rigid running board to get in and out of the truck.

Otherwise I like the fully covered sliders with the bump-out.

 

[Inferno1]

So are these direct bolt on or is drilling required? I'm gaining interest

 

[Boyds4Runner]

So are these direct bolt on or is drilling required? I'm gaining interest

It was direct bolt-on for my experience. New bolts were provided and they fit right into the already existing threaded holes.

On the driver side frame rail toward the inside I did have to remove the factory bolt holding the brake-line bracket in place. The RCI, Steel, Powder-coated cross rail that supports the back side of the transfer-case skid slides right between the frame rail and the brake-line bracket and it all gets bolted back in together to the same hole as the brake-line bracket. I did have to pull the bracket out about the 1/4" of space needed to slide the cross-rail in place.

Otherwise, no drilling or modification to the vehicle.

 

[CO-Cygnus]

the added weight (albeit better protection) of the steel would cost me more in gas-mileage over the long-haul.

Honest question - Is steel really better protection? It seems to me that .25" alu would offer just as much functional protection.

 

[jicko]

So are these direct bolt on or is drilling required? I'm gaining interest

Most, if not all, of them are direct plug and play.... with mounting hardware (new bolts) included....

Aluminum version, you don't even have to paint it.

 

[Inferno1]

Most, if not all, of them are direct plug and play.... with mounting hardware (new bolts) included....

Aluminum version, you don't even have to paint it.

Yep I did some research and sent you a pm with my order for the group buy. Grassy ass

 

[jicko]

[MENTION=119516]jicko[/MENTION]

Yeah, I hear you on the fuel-tank skid. It has been heavy on my mind after seeing that long indent. I have to chip away at the cost of the first set though. Maybe by Christmas time.

I have a RCI group buy upcoming and executing very soon..... you chance to save quite a few bucks....

Sadly I don't think I can get sliders yet since my kids are still in need of the wider platform of the factory rigid running board to get in and out of the truck.

Otherwise I like the fully covered sliders with the bump-out.

I use Shrockworks with tread plate.... it works as well, if not better, as a step than the regular stock running board. I sold my virtually new, all black, running board for close to $400.... paid for more than half of my slider!

 

[Wilson]

Will it work with a diff drop kit?

 

[Bigrupp]

Honest question - Is steel really better protection? It seems to me that .25" alu would offer just as much functional protection.

Depends on what kind of wheeling you do. If you do a lot of sliding over big rocks I would stay away from aluminum. Steel slides over big rocks way better than aluminum, which tends to not like getting yanked off the granite as much. I've seen aluminum left behind, but not so much steel.

 

[BigredTEX]

Depends on what kind of wheeling you do. If you do a lot of sliding over big rocks I would stay away from aluminum. Steel slides over big rocks way better than aluminum, which tends to not like getting yanked off the granite as much. I've seen aluminum left behind, but not so much steel.

My son just warranty'd an aluminum front skid and traded it for a steel skid. He broke two welds though the skid did not bend. Aluminum is good for light protection and will provide protection for heavy rock strikes, but should be considered as sacrificial. It will not hold up to the pounding where steel will take a licking and keep going.

 

[krinkle]

Bought only the RCI TRD Integration Skid and installed today.

Had same issue as someone else here. The skid made contact with the front diff. It seems to me like it should come with two 3/8" spacers (which it does) and four 1/4" spacers.

I ended up using two 3/8" spacers upfront and the two more on each of the rear bolts.

I have ordered four 1/4" aluminum spacers from McMaster-Carr to get it just right.

Once I get the transmission skid then I'll ditch the two rear 1/4" spacers.

Overall the skid itself is of very high quality, just needs more spacers to tweak the fit, it'd be nice if they included those.

 

[CR_CO_4RTEP]

Picked up the 3 set package from RCI today. Anyone have the torque setting for the skid plate bolts?

 

[DesertEagle]

[MENTION=3442]Boyds4Runner[/MENTION] - many thanks for this thread. Installed The RCI skids today - the brake line bracket move in particular. Thanks for posting (1 year ago) - it really helped me today!!

 

[Doc_Fry]

I installed the skids when there was a promise of this coming. And man did I bug him for about six months about it. I cant beleive that I didnt see that it was available. Just one more thing to throw a little money at. Going to go with steel I think as the rest of my skids are such.

I am kinda regretting getting rid of my Bud Builts from my FJ as surely they would have bolted right up. I say this not to knock RCI as I havent had any issues and do like there steel offerings. Just that the longer I have the truck I am leaning more towards just changing the aluminum front and going with Steel. Just money spent twice. But for now I will go with just the filler plate and if the front skid gets destroyed Ill sell it and get the full front steel skid. Just paint TRD or something like in on there lol.

 

[Saker]

Just saw this posting, can't believe I missed it.
Thanks!

 

[asaintprix]

A few more pictures to help out.

Also, the brake-line bracket under the driver side rail has to be unbolted from the frame and the RCI crossmember slides perfectly in between so that both get bolted back to the same frame position.

Thank you for posting this. I've been scratching my head trying to figure this out. Hopefully this helps someone else. The photo is priceless and helped me figure out what the hell to do here, I couldn't get the crossmember to line up properly because I was a bit too far up the driver side rail and didn't think to unbolt the brake-line bracket and use that same hole for both. Genius. Makes perfect sense - now.

 

[young]

just installed aluminum skids and i measured for the ground clearance. most of them shows less than 8 inches. It has become a mini van with a little lift mod. I didn't measure before installing. does anyone else here have similar ground clearance space?

 

[fpainter]

I had the TRD skid first, then bought the RCI steel transmission skid. I cobbled(read beat and drilled) the engine skid together to work with the RCI trans skid because the integration was not available at the time. I then was concerned about the exposed exhaust pipe so I bought the RCI steel transfer case skid kit.

Last month I was crossing a small creek bank-nothing extreme and a big rock hit the bottom , I thought nothing of it because I had full skid protection. I was preparing to do an Oil change and found the cheezy factory engine skid was bent. it protected the engine but it bent like a piece of tinfoil. I just ordered the RCI aluminum TRD integration skid. I would have preferred steel, but the aluminum will match the TRD skid better.

The only concern I have is where the aluminum skid mates to the Steel skid it may tent to have electrolysis corrosion. Does anyone have a recomendation? I may just paint the raw aluminum black or silver.