Real time help please- Cam pulley damaged?

Soulman

New member
Hi All, I am doing the T belt (thank you Timmy the Tool Man) and had a heck of a time getting the cam pulley bolts loose as do many folks apparently. I somehow bent the pin, which I will obviously need to replace but I also dented the cam pulley where the pin impacted it. My question is do I need a new cam pulley? A mechanic I know says the bolt will hold it in place, but I do NOT want to have to take everything apart to fix it later. Anybody seen this before and have a firm answer? Thanks much!
 

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There are none around here that I'm aware of. I looked for seats before I redid mine and there was one 1st or 2nd gen and that is it.

So, does that mean that you think I need one then?
 
With the bent pin, you may have a one tooth off from the timing. Check any 5vzfe: These are in tacoma's Tundra's T100 pickps.
 
If you are in a pinch try to reverse pin into cam.. it isn't bent enough to change timing.

84944628


You can also use a roll pin if you have a selection available.
Torque: 110 Nm (1,100 kgf-cm, 81 ft. lbs.)
 
The bent pin won't work however the dent in the cam pulley shouldn't affect the timing as the bolt is what ultimately holds the cam pulley into place, not the pin. The pin just acts as a locator.
 
There are none around here that I'm aware of. I looked for seats before I redid mine and there was one 1st or 2nd gen and that is it.

I find it bizarre that you can't find any 3.4L in the yards. It reminds me of a time when I was at this small border town. Lots and lots of Fords and Chevys.
Hardly any Toyotas at a junkyard within a 13 mile radius. I was looking for a alternator harness on a 01 Sequoia and there was only one out of more than 30 junkyards.
 
Junkyards- I live in Fargo, ND, there are 3 yards around here. Admittedly, I have not searched outside the immediate area. Also, I will order new before taking the time and effort to do that at this time of year. New is $95 from the local stealership.

BUT, the front is undamaged. I think I can use a new pin (not pushed all the way in, so it contacts the front of the pulley) to locate the pulley, and then tighten the bolt. Does that seem prudent to you guys?
 

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Junkyards- I live in Fargo, ND, there are 3 yards around here. Admittedly, I have not searched outside the immediate area. Also, I will order new before taking the time and effort to do that at this time of year. New is $95 from the local stealership.

BUT, the front is undamaged. I think I can use a new pin (not pushed all the way in, so it contacts the front of the pulley) to locate the pulley, and then tighten the bolt. Does that seem prudent to you guys?

that should work.
 
Junkyards- I live in Fargo, ND, there are 3 yards around here. Admittedly, I have not searched outside the immediate area. Also, I will order new before taking the time and effort to do that at this time of year. New is $95 from the local stealership.

BUT, the front is undamaged. I think I can use a new pin (not pushed all the way in, so it contacts the front of the pulley) to locate the pulley, and then tighten the bolt. Does that seem prudent to you guys?

Try the St. Cloud, MN area. Lots of yards around there. I know it’s a couple hours away but they are usually worth it. I regularly make the trek to St. Cloud instead of the ones in the Twin Cities because I get better service and usually cheaper prices. There’s an Asian Import yard in Rockville and that guy is awesome. Plus he has a sweet supercharged tundra. K and C Foreign Auto parts.
 
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I wouldn't freak out if you can't get a new pulley. There are many engines out there that don't even use an alignment pin... though the ones I know are German, so maybe that's not the best thing to copy!

But yes, if the bolt stays tight, there is no force on the pin during regular engine operation.

-Charlie
 
Damn it! Just when I was thinking I had this thing figured out...

That sucks that happened to you. When Sean and I were making the timing belt video, we had a hell of time getting those cam bolts broken free. At first, Sean was holding the special cam pulley holder tool but he couldn't hold it tight enough for me to break the bolt loose with the breaker bar. We switched places and I hunkered down on that special tool and nearly threw my shoulder out to break those bolts free. It took an incredible amount of force. Next time I'll use my impact gun. I just wanted to show a traditional way to break it free for the video because I figured many people don't own impact guns.

I agree what others have suggested. Either get a used one at a junk yard or just buy a new one. I don't think it's worth the risk of using that one that got damaged.

I'm trying to envision how this happened in the first place? How were you securing the cam pulley while you were breaking the bolt free. When Sean and I did it, all the force was being applied to the bolt and a couple of the pulley spokes.
 
Check Ebay

Hi All, I am doing the T belt (thank you Timmy the Tool Man) and had a heck of a time getting the cam pulley bolts loose as do many folks apparently. I somehow bent the pin, which I will obviously need to replace but I also dented the cam pulley where the pin impacted it. My question is do I need a new cam pulley? A mechanic I know says the bolt will hold it in place, but I do NOT want to have to take everything apart to fix it later. Anybody seen this before and have a firm answer? Thanks much!

Check this Ebay link, this guy wants $35 for the pully im sure there are others listed as well. My firm answer replace it, for all the bull you go through to change the belt its not worth the chance. Unless you just love working on your engine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20F003-RIG...ash=item1eaac210ca:g:Dq8AAOSw--1WqrdT&vxp=mtr
 
Thanks for the link but I need a left side pulley. Another factor is time. I was hoping to have this thing done last weekend but I got sick...and ran into a few snags like this.
Tim- I am doing this pretty much step but step with your video (THANK YOU for the vids- already did my valve cover gaskets and couldn't do anything without the videos- they are awesome!). I made a tool to hold the pulley in place and it worked pretty well although it did bend a bit. It looks like the pulley turned on the shaft, isn't that the only way it could have happened? If anyone has any other idea please chime in. Both bolts were VERY tight. I set up my tool to hold against the frame rail and pulled as hard as I could and it finally popped.

Another question- the crank gear is not "falling off" like yours did in the video. Any suggestions for tools (maybe auto parts store rentals?) to get that off. I ordered the seal puller Tim uses today off Amazon.
 
Here's the tool I made. As i said, it did the trick but I'll have to replace the one bolt to install the pulleys. It is 1" square tubing (18 GA I think- thicker would have been better obviously). I used a 3/4" square tube (about 3' long) for the handle part. Thanks for all the replies guys. Love my 4Runners and this forum is a big reason we recently purchased one for the daughter.
 

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Thanks for the link but I need a left side pulley. Another factor is time. I was hoping to have this thing done last weekend but I got sick...and ran into a few snags like this.
Tim- I am doing this pretty much step but step with your video (THANK YOU for the vids- already did my valve cover gaskets and couldn't do anything without the videos- they are awesome!). I made a tool to hold the pulley in place and it worked pretty well although it did bend a bit. It looks like the pulley turned on the shaft, isn't that the only way it could have happened? If anyone has any other idea please chime in. Both bolts were VERY tight. I set up my tool to hold against the frame rail and pulled as hard as I could and it finally popped.

Another question- the crank gear is not "falling off" like yours did in the video. Any suggestions for tools (maybe auto parts store rentals?) to get that off. I ordered the seal puller Tim uses today off Amazon.

That crankshaft timing gear can be pulled off in the same manner we pulled off the crank pulley. I'm not a 100% sure but I think the bolt size that will thread into the timing gear are M6 with a 1.0 thread pitch.
 

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