Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)

[hoodlm]

Finding the Bearings

The correct bearings seem to be a bit hard to find in the US. On Ebay it seems they ship from Latvia, UAE or somewhere else. I found this site that has the bearings. They are the Koyo bearings. I haven't received them yet, so I haven't installed them. We'll see how they do. Should be good to go, though. KOYO Rear Wheel Bearings For Toyota 4Runner Pickup T100 Tacoma (Made in Japan) - Rodavictoria USA

 

[Silver.T4R]

Just a PSA, NAPA carriers the OE koyo rear wheel bearings for around $55 a piece with retainers. They are under an ATM part number, but are in fact koyo bearings.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[CantComplain]

coupla questions

Hi All-

Just picked up a 99 SR5 w 95k miles and oily brake drums. I've read this entire thread and there is some fantastic information. However there are a couple things that I'd like to throw out to the brain trust.

1.) I have a low mileage rig that has been in snow for 25 winters. Rust has developed on the undercarriage, from light to moderate. It caked the diff breather and caused the leaks. I'll order the replacement breather, but is there any hope that with the pressure relieved via a new breather than the seals that once leaked will no longer because the pressure is significantly less? I mean the seal is really just rubber held with a spring, right? Tho mine is 25 years old rubber that has allowed some oil past at this point. But curious if there's any chance of getting that lucky. the orignal p/n does appear to be available still.

2.) the new "00006" seal from Toyota is wider and risks riding onto the bevel and therefore allowing oil past. Is there any reason why you couldn't replace the seal with the original p/n "00001" to avoid this? It doesn't seem that the part was superseded to resolve any major issues, and in fact it may cause new ones if the race isn't installed further inboard to accommodate.

Both these questions assume I'd want to not pull the axle and replace the bearings, which is basically true. I see the value but if I can buy time for $20, Ima doing that. Any input welcome.

 

[phattyduck]

Both these questions assume I'd want to not pull the axle and replace the bearings, which is basically true. I see the value but if I can buy time for $20, Ima doing that. Any input welcome.

If oil got out to the drums, it went through the bearing, so the bearing has been washed (and will wear out faster, or already has worn out). Even if you weren't changing the seal/bearings/retainers, you'd want to drain out the area where the ABS ring rides so that oil doesn't stay built-up there, which requires at least cracking the axles/hubs off the housing.

I guess I'm trying to say, don't be lazy - do the job right and it'll last another 20 years...

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

Hi All-

Just picked up a 99 SR5 w 95k miles and oily brake drums. I see the value but if I can buy time for $20, Ima doing that. Any input welcome.

Page SA-81 of FSM, perform CHECK BEARING BACKLASH AND AXLE SHAFT DEVIATION test.
Will tell condition of bearings, if bearing spins freely by hand most all grease has been washed.
To buy some time you could.
Remove the side shield of bearing you have access to, pack bearing with grease reinstall side shield.
Takes some finesse with side shield but can be done, have done this a few times over the years.

 

[CantComplain]

Page SA-81 of FSM, perform CHECK BEARING BACKLASH AND AXLE SHAFT DEVIATION test.
Will tell condition of bearings, if bearing spins freely by hand most all grease has been washed.
To buy some time you could.
Remove the side shield of bearing you have access to, pack bearing with grease reinstall side shield.
Takes some finesse with side shield but can be done, have done this a few times over the years.

Yes, this is what I was thinking. The leak is nothing like some of the pics posted in the thread; I don't think any gear oil exited the confined drum space. Yes, that means it went through the bearing but hopefully not too much and I can replace it (the grease), or at least try. If worst case scenario is doing the work I'm trying to avoid for the time being, I can live with that.

 

[TX_MD]

oof...I'm really dreading the potential of having to replace the rear seals. I requested a quote from Toyota (for shits and giggles) and it's ~$1400 for seals, bearings, oil, etc. Pretty evenly split for parts and labor. I guess first thing to do is to remove wheel and rear drum cover to see if it's been breached? I think it has at least on one side. Noticed the drum is a lot darker than the other side....

 

[96RedRunner]

If worst case scenario is doing the work I'm trying to avoid for the time being, I can live with that.

You can better the odds making sure new seal is installed square with the axle.
A depth gauge helps to achieve this, installing seal cock-eyed not a good idea.

 

[MWebster]

I'm getting ready to do this now. What's not widely published about this is that 2000-2002 uses a different bearing. It's so unknown that last time I did this job I only did the seals and now they're leaking again...but I noticed it has the wrong bearing. The last two years uses the bearing that has the metal lip sticking out.

Rear Axle Service Kit, 1979-99 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Rear Axle Service Kit, 2000-04 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I found that the official toyota part numbers for these are
90363-40020-77 for the flat pre-2000 models
(pic) 1984-2004 Toyota Bearing 90363-40020-77 | Camelback Toyota Parts

90363-40068 for the last two years
(pic) 1998-2006 Toyota Bearing 90363-40068 | Camelback Toyota Parts

I'm not smart enough to know WHY, but the guy at Marlin told me it has to do with how the later models are assembled. Not sure why Toyota changed the last two years this way, but I'm sure there was a reason.

I could really use some help. I'm in the middle of replacing the seals, bearings, etc... I previously paid a shop to do this and it failed. I have a 2001 4Runner and the bearings I just pulled out do not have the lip (maybe this contributed to the quick failure). I've moved, so seeking warranty work from the shop that botched it isn't an option.

I'm installing the 90363-40068 bearings, with the lip. It looks like the lip must go toward the wheel, and the flat side of the bearing towards the ABS Ring. I just want confirm this is correct, before I start pressing stuff into place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[96RedRunner]

I'm installing the 90363-40068 bearings, with the lip. It looks like the lip must go toward the wheel, and the flat side of the bearing towards the ABS Ring. I just want confirm this is correct, before I start pressing stuff into place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looking at this FSM pg. SA-84 I'd say lip goes inward toward ABS ring. FSM can be deceiving.
Bearing inner race being beveled like it is there's usually a reason and a like mating surface.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/rparts-sit...403335c7/cebc24b8e377be1b848b96472887bb99.jpg

Been 8 years since replacing seals in my 01 didn't pay attention to this detail.

 

[WayneM]

I'm pretty sure the extended inner race on the 90363-40068 goes outward toward the wheel. That's how I remember from 10-years ago when I first did mine.

Now you have conflicting advice :/
I need to (again) do the same bearing/seals work on my 2001, so I'm interested in an authoritative answer, also.

 

[MWebster]

Dang! I'll look at how the surfaces mate, and try to make a determination based on that.

 

[MWebster]

Okay, after looking at the mating surfaces, the answer became obvious. The lip side of the race has an inward bevel. If you were to press the retainer on against the bevel, you'd run the risk of the retainer ring slipping into the bevel and distorting the lip. Therefore, the lip side has to go toward the wheel and the flat side goes toward the ABS ring, as the flat side will mate up well with the retaining ring.

Thanks for your help, gentlemen!

I hope this helps someone else avoid my confusion, in the future.

 

[gotdurt]

For those that are looking for the original seal design (50001), look for the Altrom/KP Gasket part number 211 8401 (made in Japan) at NAPA. It's the only "50001" replacement part that I've found that is actually the old design.

 

[2TH4IST]

Bumping an old thread. Just a FYI the oem toyota rear wheel bearing part # 90363-40020-77 is now discontinued.

I was able to get a set from toyotapartsdeal but they didn't come from the normal place, and have a suspicious part label sticker that looks fake. The bearings are NSK, so not oem koyo or nachi. And came in bubble wrap and not a toyota box. Super suspicious.

The seal is oem w/oem parts sticker.

 

[Drcoffee]

NSK is a Japanese bearing. Probably the best option out there. I use them on both my 4runner and FJC.

 

[mtbtim]

NSK is a Japanese bearing. Probably the best option out there. I use them on both my 4runner and FJC.

No Way! Dr Coffee is still around. That rear axle video we did showcasing your retainer flip method now has 354,000 views.

 

[phattyduck]

No Way! Dr Coffee is still around. That rear axle video we did showcasing your retainer flip method now has 354,000 views.

My 4Runner! Its famous!

:lol:

-Charlie

 

[T4R2014]

NSK is the OEM bearing supplier for 01-02, I wouldn't be phased by it.

 

[2TH4IST]

10-4 thanks guys, I'll move forward with the NSK bearing.