Rear Control Arm Build

MStudt

MStudt

official vendor
The rear lower control arm bushings are shot, and they need to be replaced. I don't feel like messing around with trying to remove the bushing, so I'm doing to next best thing. Making brand new adjustable lower links.

Here's the details:

The links above will show you the parts that I'm using. However, this are not the places I'm getting the parts from.

I should have the parts in early next week. Don't be surprised if you see something in the classified section about these being for sale. I'm always trying to find ways to help members save money. Get the same quality parts the big guys sell at a cheaper price.
 
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I like the rubber boots. I might have to get some of them!

I bought the kit with heims, inserts, and spacers from ruffstuff, but it looks like you saved a little money piecing it together.
 
hurt4x said:
I like the rubber boots. I might have to get some of them!

I bought the kit with heims, inserts, and spacers from ruffstuff, but it looks like you saved a little money piecing it together.
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Ruff Stuff has some great products that for sure! My supplier is only a day away from me, and pricing is A LOT better. I'm using the same heims and hardware that I use on the sway bar links I sell. I didn't want to post up a link to them and give away my secret.

kolelt said:
I'm interested in this. Are you making all the rear control arms ? Keep us posted please
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I'm going to make the uppers as well. Just starting with the lowers to see how they turn out. I know they'll turn out fine, more concerned with my choice on the heims. I didn't feel like spending $30+ for Duroflex Joints, Johnny Joints, or Ballistic Joints. I might end up going that way in the near future though.
 
4Running Daily said:
I would definitely buy a set of uppers and lowers.
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Let me get mine done first. I'm thinking of offering a couple different options for people that might want a different joint on one end. I'm thinking somewhere around 30% cheaper than the ones offered from Toytec. I'll need to get everything dialed in once these are done.
 
You are going to want to go up in tube OD size. If you are building links for strength and to resist bending you want at least 1 3/4". You are really not getting much better than stock running anything with a smaller OD.
 
NateMob said:
You are going to want to go up in tube OD size. If you are building links for strength and to resist bending you want at least 1 3/4". You are really not getting much better than stock running anything with a smaller OD.
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I've got some 1-1/4 x .120 DOM for the main section and some 1-1/2 x .120 DOM that I'm going to sleeve it with. That should be plenty strong for anything I'll ever do. This is really just a trial run to see what will/won't fit in the openings we have.

I'll fine tune everything once I really get working on it. I already have most of the material I need for the DOM, and heims as well. I may just end up using these as the uppers, and buy beefier joints for the lowers that will work with larger DOM.
 
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MStudt said:
I've got some 1-1/4 x .120 DOM for the main section and some 1-1/2 x .120 DOM that I'm going to sleeve it with. That should be plenty strong for anything I'll ever do. This is really just a trial run to see what will/won't fit in the openings we have.

I'll fine tune everything once I really get working on it. I already have most of the material I need for the DOM, and heims as well. I may just end up using these as the uppers, and buy beefier joints for the lowers that will work with larger DOM.
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That's fine that you already have that and are going to try it. And sleeving it is a step in the right direction.

In the future, since you talked about making more and selling them, it will be less time and money to do it with 1 3/4" or 2" OD tube than to fool around with the weaker smaller stuff. Not only will the main section of the link be stronger with the larger OD but you will be increasing the size of the welded area between the tube and the bushing socket stepping up in size. There is a really good write up on this over on Pirate, ill see if i cant find it and link it here. Its got hard #s and formulas to calculate exactly how much stronger the larger tubing is, even when you stay with the same wall thickness.
 
NateMob said:
That's fine that you already have that and are going to try it. And sleeving it is a step in the right direction.

In the future, since you talked about making more and selling them, it will be less time and money to do it with 1 3/4" or 2" OD tube than to fool around with the weaker smaller stuff. Not only will the main section of the link be stronger with the larger OD but you will be increasing the size of the welded area between the tube and the bushing socket stepping up in size. There is a really good write up on this over on Pirate, ill see if i cant find it and link it here. Its got hard #s and formulas to calculate exactly how much stronger the larger tubing is, even when you stay with the same wall thickness.
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I know the thread you're talking about. I used to live on Pirate when I had my Jeep.
 
3/4 heims are fine on the uppers and the pan hard bar but you will want something bigger for the lowers. 7/8's minimum. I'm running 1.25's.
 
MStudt said:
I know the thread you're talking about. I used to live on Pirate when I had my Jeep.
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Right on, I wont link it here then. :yo:

When I built my own i originally thought about making them available for purchase, even thinking i could charge way less than the other guys making and selling them and still make an ok profit. When all was said and done, after using good quality flex joints (no heims;personal preference), tube, cutoff wheels and grinding/flap discs, welding material (wire/gas) and my own free time to work on them it was in no way worth it for me. I quickly realized why beefier aftermarket links fetch such a high price.
 
NateMob said:
You must have an inside line on parts. :biggrin2:
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I know a couple people.

I really need to get the old links off and take a mic to them. Then I can see what I really have to work with. I'm sure in the end I'll end up going with something other than heims for this. I like heims and all, but there are better options out there for the money.
 
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MStudt said:
I know a couple people.

I really need to get the old links off and take a mic to them. Then I can see what I really have to work with. I'm sure in the end I'll end up going with something other than heims for this. I like heims and all, but there are better options out there for the money.
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Oh without a doubt, i used Summit Machine Flex Joints(size Medium) on the frame end and a factory bushing on the axle end. They are a nice quality joint that i would recommend. On that note however, I plan to make another set for myself this winter using Metal Cloak's Duroflex joint, it looks incredibly promising as the perfect link joint/bushing for Daily Drivers that still want maximum performance offroad. The videos are plenty convincing.
 
NateMob said:
Oh without a doubt, i used Summit Machine Flex Joints(size Medium) on the frame end and a factory bushing on the axle end. They are a nice quality joint that i would recommend. On that note however, I plan to make another set for myself this winter using Metal Cloak's Duroflex joint, it looks incredibly promising as the perfect link joint/bushing for Daily Drivers that still want maximum performance offroad. The videos are plenty convincing.
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Those are actually my two choices. I already know Summit Machine has some amazing joint. I've been really temped to buy some Duroflex joints, and almost did this morning. My only concern is running the 2-5/16 joints since the just a bit smaller than the opening.
 
I can attest to the Medium Summit joints fitting perfect, i also have the assembly tool if you want to use it. I could mail it to you for assembly and setting of preload. Its a lot easier than using a hammer and punch. lol
 
NateMob said:
I can attest to the Medium Summit joints fitting perfect, i also have the assembly tool if you want to use it. I could mail it to you for assembly and setting of preload. Its a lot easier than using a hammer and punch. lol
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I might take you up on that offer if I decide to go with the Summit joints. I think I might end up with the Duroflex joints though. I'll know by Monday which way I'm going to go.

Edit: I actually think I'm going to buy a couple of the Duroflex joints. I was reading up on them last night and watch a couple videos this morning. If the vibration dampening is as good as they, these should be very good joints. I'm going to order a couple of the 2"x1/2"x2-1/2" joints this weekend. Just not sure if I want to get ones with a shank or not.
 
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