Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit
- Thread starter midcoma
- Start date
Grgg1978
Member
Not yet. This is on my next set of mods list for this fall. I have the parts you have made. Still need to purchase the rest plus others to get the 4Runner ready for towing.
Looking at an Oct/Nov install. I have local people wanting to see it as well.
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Great! I look forward to seeing how it goes.
Nothing to apologize for. There's definitely more important things going on in the word at the moment.
This is definitely a mod you want to make sure you have all the parts for before you start. :thumb:
1996T4runner
New member
Will definitely have to do this after i finish everything on my front end
G’s_4runnah
New member
Hey y’all, [MENTION=109081]atcpup[/MENTION] and I installed my kit this weekend. It took a while but I think that was mostly nerves as we were removing such a large portion of a critical component. After installing on my truck (2001 with the electric brake booster assy), I am pretty pleased. There is one aspect of the swap that is concerning me:
My electronic brake booster is kicking on about every other application of the brakes. I think the drums offered more resistance and helped it keep pressure in the lines. I’m thinking I should swap my front lines to stainless steel lines to rule out the possibility of the oem rubber lines swelling and try to bleed them a couple more times. Another possibility is that I may need to have Toyota do a power bleed. Apparently there is an electronic step in the bleed process for the electric boosters. The pedal feels firm but when I am easing to a stop the booster kicks on after a few seconds of application and the brakes get much firmer. I can live with the noise of the booster I am concerned that the extra workload may wear it out faster (electronic boosters are pricey).
I’m looking into doing a delete of the electronic booster and switching to the diaphragm style the earlier models have. However, the abs, vsc and trac are tied in. I don’t mind losing the vsc and trac as I will be doing a manual swap in the winter and will lose them anyway but I would like to retain the abs as I need the truck to pass inspection in Denver.
This is a great kit and I am very happy so far but some insight from someone with an 2001-02 who has deleted the electronic booster would be welcome. Also if anyone can shed some light on the frequently running booster motor being related to some air still in the system, I would appreciate it.
Happy to be the test dummy for the 2001-02 guys for this kit!
My electronic brake booster is kicking on about every other application of the brakes. I think the drums offered more resistance and helped it keep pressure in the lines. I’m thinking I should swap my front lines to stainless steel lines to rule out the possibility of the oem rubber lines swelling and try to bleed them a couple more times. Another possibility is that I may need to have Toyota do a power bleed. Apparently there is an electronic step in the bleed process for the electric boosters. The pedal feels firm but when I am easing to a stop the booster kicks on after a few seconds of application and the brakes get much firmer. I can live with the noise of the booster I am concerned that the extra workload may wear it out faster (electronic boosters are pricey).
I’m looking into doing a delete of the electronic booster and switching to the diaphragm style the earlier models have. However, the abs, vsc and trac are tied in. I don’t mind losing the vsc and trac as I will be doing a manual swap in the winter and will lose them anyway but I would like to retain the abs as I need the truck to pass inspection in Denver.
This is a great kit and I am very happy so far but some insight from someone with an 2001-02 who has deleted the electronic booster would be welcome. Also if anyone can shed some light on the frequently running booster motor being related to some air still in the system, I would appreciate it.
Happy to be the test dummy for the 2001-02 guys for this kit!
I don't think bleeding is your problem. I don't have an 01-02, so I could be wrong, but if there was air in the system your pedal would most likely feel soft and/or press to the floor. The other thing that has me thinking it isn't a bleeding problem is that the electronic booster is in the engine bay, right? If you only replaced the rear lines, air shouldn't have made it all the way up to the booster or any of the ABS components that are under the hood. That should rule out needing to have an electronic bleed done for the booster.
I think that the resistance thing may be a possibility though. It might be worth adding a residual valve to the rear brake line to hold more pressure in the lines.
I think that the resistance thing may be a possibility though. It might be worth adding a residual valve to the rear brake line to hold more pressure in the lines.
G’s_4runnah
New member
It would be good if there was some specs form Toyota on the psi a stock system should run at. If we had access to that, we could try to recreate it in the modified system. [MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION] I’m seeing a number of possible valves with different psi ratings... do you think a single 2psi in-line where the main line splits into the two rear brakes would work or should I do one before each rear brake? 4psi total?
I should’ve updated... I installed the disc brake kit weeks ago. Very happy with it, brake power is noticeably better! I went with the powerstop carbon ceramics, NAPA slotted rotors, and remanufactured calipers. Was having a slight rubbing issue that just barely went through the paint on the rotors but I adjusted as much as I could yesterday and only one side still looks a little close but the clearance is fine on both.
I installed brake kit yesterday. It took some time but got it done. I think I need to get down there to cut the line some more as there is some slack on the line after it was nice and tight. I ended up having to adjust the junction bracket as tight as it would go, I know that I shouldn't of had to do that. I had to tie up the rear line on the passenger side to make sure it didn’t rest on the exhaust. Hopefully that holds up.
It has been really smoked out here from all of the fires around me so. For the past few weeks you could only really see no more than 1/4 mile in front of you. I have been trying to limit the amount I’m outside working on it. The heavy wind has cleared it up a bit so there’s a window of opportunity. Just did the Bilstein 5160s in the rear and waiting for my King 2.5s to be shipped out for the fronts. OCD will probably take over and I’ll redo the rear with King as well.
I’ll post some pictures of the brake install after I take out the slack on the parking brake kit. I also need shorter hydraulic lines in the rear. I have the custom lines I made for another kit that didn’t work out in use and they are all tied up because they were way too long. Midcoma, if you have any lines left over I am interested.
I installed brake kit yesterday. It took some time but got it done. I think I need to get down there to cut the line some more as there is some slack on the line after it was nice and tight. I ended up having to adjust the junction bracket as tight as it would go, I know that I shouldn't of had to do that. I had to tie up the rear line on the passenger side to make sure it didn’t rest on the exhaust. Hopefully that holds up.
It has been really smoked out here from all of the fires around me so. For the past few weeks you could only really see no more than 1/4 mile in front of you. I have been trying to limit the amount I’m outside working on it. The heavy wind has cleared it up a bit so there’s a window of opportunity. Just did the Bilstein 5160s in the rear and waiting for my King 2.5s to be shipped out for the fronts. OCD will probably take over and I’ll redo the rear with King as well.
I’ll post some pictures of the brake install after I take out the slack on the parking brake kit. I also need shorter hydraulic lines in the rear. I have the custom lines I made for another kit that didn’t work out in use and they are all tied up because they were way too long. Midcoma, if you have any lines left over I am interested.
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I believe a residual valve is on the right track. It's been a while since I read through Dirtco's build threads, but I vaguely remember when he converted his rear axle to full float and disk rears he had to put a residual valve in.
Grgg1978
Member
Ok. I’ve come to find out I need to redo the bearings and seals on the differential so time to get this done also.
I have a master tech friend of mine helping out and he asked if anyone has had to put in a new adjustable proportioning valve. Any additional items people have noticed they needed?
The conversion is going into a 1999 5speed
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RandyBobandy
New member
I haven’t done this yet but I plan to put a proportioning valve in, however I’ll be deleting the whole abs system while I’m at it, it’s already disabled
Grgg1978
Member
Where are you ordering the valve from. That’s the one part I don’t know where to purchase and which one to go with. Definitely don’t want to get rid of the abs system though
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RandyBobandy
New member
Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I plan to get something like this, and a residual valve to counteract runout from the rotor pushing the caliper pistons back in.
Not sure how a proportioning valve will work with abs, I know some people with disk brakes and abs don’t run a proportioning valve and say the braking is ok, but since I already have my abs disabled I plan to go with the full delete once I do the conversion
Grgg1978
Member
So where exactly would you put the residual valve. Really have zero knowledge of this at all.
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Here's an example with instructions :
Residual Pressure Valve 2 lb. Valve | JEGS
It can be installed just before the t in the rear brake line or one each after the t. I'm not sure yet how much is needed, depends on your master cylinder and pedal feel.
G’s_4runnah
New member
Update for my 01-02 doods! A second brake bleed has my electronic booster running as it did before the swap!
I did some further inspection of the fsm for the 2001-2002 years. The ignition has to be in the “on” position when bleeding due to the electronic booster. I got so many tiny bubbles out of the rear passenger side on my second bleed that the fluid almost looked milky. It seems to have put me on the right track, the motor on the booster isn’t running nearly as frequently. Im going to do one more bleed and I think it should be perfect. I think the electronic booster was running more to try to accommodate the air that was still in the lines.
Just some food for though for the 2001-2002 guys who are doing the swap!
I did some further inspection of the fsm for the 2001-2002 years. The ignition has to be in the “on” position when bleeding due to the electronic booster. I got so many tiny bubbles out of the rear passenger side on my second bleed that the fluid almost looked milky. It seems to have put me on the right track, the motor on the booster isn’t running nearly as frequently. Im going to do one more bleed and I think it should be perfect. I think the electronic booster was running more to try to accommodate the air that was still in the lines.
Just some food for though for the 2001-2002 guys who are doing the swap!
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Thanks been waiting to hear things.
01 brake system's suck monkey nads when it comes to bleeding without SST that fires each solenoid.
Was having problems getting pump to cycle correctly after two bleeds by the book, no bubbles at wheel's.
I made the ABS system function/fire the solenoids by using it, wet pavement did the trick, lock the brakes enough times to function each corner.
Bled again after sliding round parking lot zillion bubbles each corner.
My case worse case scenario, system capped but open at wheels for 3 months.
