Rear Hatch Lock Barrel Missing
- Thread starter benegeorge
- Start date
hawkcharmer
Member
Do any of you guys know where the thin rod from rear hatch lock cylinder attaches to? I took it out because it fell through and needed to JB Weld it back to plate frame, but I cannot figure out where the little green plastic piece snaps into. I know it goes on end of rod, then im lost from there. Is it the brass tab or white plastic piece shown in pic below? Its hard to see behind the black plate
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]
check this thread out...
realistically, the user should remove the bezel from the hatch to repair this issue.
there are 3 bolts & 4 plastic clips holding this thing on.
2 bolts holding it on are on the handle itself that opens the rear door
1 is part of the rear license plate bezel surround/garnish
the rest are plastic clips, which i h8
so i replaced mine with more bolts. i used m6 and m8's that i had laying around from random salvage yard runs.
>>> comparing the clips vs the bolts
>>> bolt in place of clip
>>> used pliers to pinch the clip so you can push to remove the license plate bezel
the worst part of this job is the you have to roll down your rear window slightly to reach certain clips & i remove the bolts hold the rear window mirror motor so i could move it around.
when removing paneling from the rear, you remove a big black metal backing plate that holds the brain to control the rear window " up and down", so i was constantly plugging this back in to be able to move the window up and down as i needed, to reach the areas that held the bezel on.
check this thread out...
realistically, the user should remove the bezel from the hatch to repair this issue.
there are 3 bolts & 4 plastic clips holding this thing on.
2 bolts holding it on are on the handle itself that opens the rear door
1 is part of the rear license plate bezel surround/garnish
the rest are plastic clips, which i h8
so i replaced mine with more bolts. i used m6 and m8's that i had laying around from random salvage yard runs.
>>> comparing the clips vs the bolts
>>> bolt in place of clip
>>> used pliers to pinch the clip so you can push to remove the license plate bezel
the worst part of this job is the you have to roll down your rear window slightly to reach certain clips & i remove the bolts hold the rear window mirror motor so i could move it around.
when removing paneling from the rear, you remove a big black metal backing plate that holds the brain to control the rear window " up and down", so i was constantly plugging this back in to be able to move the window up and down as i needed, to reach the areas that held the bezel on.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Noted, thanks a million [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]!
Great walk through. Thanks for that but I just need a little help finding the elusive 3rd bolt that holds the license plate garnish. If I'm looking at the tailgate from inside the cargo area, is it to the left of the 2 tailgate handle bolts? Thanks for any input.
angoraRunner
New member
Anyone know the part number of the gray plastic clips? Or can you recommend a good replacement?
The green clip (that attaches to the rod that attaches to the lock cylinder) goes into the white plastic piece with a curved groove, part of the window controller that sits behind a black plastic protective cover (held on by one screw and two small clips). See pics (hopefully they show... my first post here)
Adding: and if anyone knows of a part number for that green clip, or where to get one, please let me know, as mine is broken
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Last edited:
This thread really helped me get my lock cylinder out. Thanks to all for the info and pics. Female hands made reaching inside with a 10mm wrench for the three garnish bolts easy. Didn't have to lower the rear window. I removed the initial trim panel with the hatch up but after its removal did the remaining work inside the hatch with the door down.
I found releasing the red clip and pulling out the rod up by the cylinder early on really helped. From there I released the grey electrical connector, see pic, to the right of the lock cylinder. I was able to pry away the garnish from the outside and the cylinder came along with it. It was still attached via the yellow connector and used a small flat screwdriver to gently pry it away on both sides.
At this point the garnish will come away with the attached lock cylinder. The two phillips screws were PB blasted and used my JIS screw driver to easily remove the last screws. The two remainng screws are visible in the first pic.
I found releasing the red clip and pulling out the rod up by the cylinder early on really helped. From there I released the grey electrical connector, see pic, to the right of the lock cylinder. I was able to pry away the garnish from the outside and the cylinder came along with it. It was still attached via the yellow connector and used a small flat screwdriver to gently pry it away on both sides.
At this point the garnish will come away with the attached lock cylinder. The two phillips screws were PB blasted and used my JIS screw driver to easily remove the last screws. The two remainng screws are visible in the first pic.
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I have a similar issue, one day my lock barrel just fell into the tailgate as I tried to unlock it, I got in but as I'm trying to pry off the garnish on the back i’m having a lot of trouble, I unbolted the handle/ license plate but are there 2 more bolts above that that I need to take care of? Some of the diagrams are helpful but also very small and kinda hard to read.
Here's a pic I took when mine was apart. I took my lock into the locksmith as the outside flap was stuck shut from calcification. They informed me this is a problem with most rear hatch locks.
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Thank you, I finally got in, I hate dealing with plastic clips, these were so strong I thought they must have been bolts, a couple broke but it went back on fine. My lock barrel bracket was fine but the attachment to the back of the liftgate garnish was what broke off (old plastic) so I jerry rigged it with some e6000 on the bracket and didn’t use it for a couple days, worked pretty well though, I have full functionality back and I got to put a little penetrating oil on some rusty pieces above the license plate lights. Appreciate your photo!
