fullboogie
New member
LOL - that's what mine looked like when I bought it a few months ago. Why not just spend the $28 on a new switch?
Rear hatch opener melted!
- Thread starter ZandT4R
- Start date
Indeed there is a plug, I used the excellent write up on toyota120.com for an easy swap.
Only thing I got nervous about was pulling the plastic sheet off, did not want to rip it, or lose the seal when i put it back on, so went slow pulling it away.
AustinRunner
New member
Now Remote Won't Control Window
First, thanks for the write-up. I got mine replaced finally.
After removing everything I discovered I had a Sienna part instead. I left the inside panel and the melted latch off for a couple days while the correct part arrived in the mail. That meant I had no way to open the hatch, so I had to crawl inside, remove all the bolts, etc, and replace the handle and then trigger the release. What a pain.
Anyhow, it worked and I have a brand new handle in there. However, now the window won't roll down when I use the remote. Any advice on this? I haven't had a chance to search the forums yet for other folks who have had this particular problem. So sorry if this has been covered extensively.
First, thanks for the write-up. I got mine replaced finally.
After removing everything I discovered I had a Sienna part instead. I left the inside panel and the melted latch off for a couple days while the correct part arrived in the mail. That meant I had no way to open the hatch, so I had to crawl inside, remove all the bolts, etc, and replace the handle and then trigger the release. What a pain.
Anyhow, it worked and I have a brand new handle in there. However, now the window won't roll down when I use the remote. Any advice on this? I haven't had a chance to search the forums yet for other folks who have had this particular problem. So sorry if this has been covered extensively.
dchild
New member
Try using the buttons inside the cab to lower the rear window all the way down then close it all the way. Sometimes these trucks need to "learn" where the limits are before they can do the auto-down thing like the remote does.
Virtual TWiT
New member
It's my turn
I've put this off for a couple of years but this past winter the rubber got so hard I almost couldn't open the hatch a couple of times. I've got an inside switch mod just in case though. Until recently I didn't know if the rubber was a seal to keep water from getting inside the hatch. After the fact I suppose the goo can be scraped off with a flat head screwdriver in a pinch. I considered taking the existing switch and wrapping it in EPDM rubber (pond liner) or heavy vinyl, but I just want it fixed so I ordered a new switch through Amazon.
I'm seriously considering sending a bill for the switch plus a few bucks for labor directly to Toyota and see what happens.
I've put this off for a couple of years but this past winter the rubber got so hard I almost couldn't open the hatch a couple of times. I've got an inside switch mod just in case though. Until recently I didn't know if the rubber was a seal to keep water from getting inside the hatch. After the fact I suppose the goo can be scraped off with a flat head screwdriver in a pinch. I considered taking the existing switch and wrapping it in EPDM rubber (pond liner) or heavy vinyl, but I just want it fixed so I ordered a new switch through Amazon.
I'm seriously considering sending a bill for the switch plus a few bucks for labor directly to Toyota and see what happens.
Thanks for the link, very helpful. I replaced the switch on my 08 in less than an hour, including clean up. I used Goo Gone to remove the black sticky stuff from the tailgate and screws. Worked very well.
Iolaus
Member
I also used the write-up on T120; took exactly an hour from start to finish. It really wasn't a lot of work - not when compared to the PITA of dealing with the sticky crap every time I opened the rear door. Everything works; no window issues or anything.
I went slow with pulling the plastic seal, and ran a knife across the stretched adhesive so that there was some on both sides when it came time to seal it back up. Worked like a charm.
Yeah, the nub behind the Toyota emblem was the trickiest part. It's not the same kind of connector as the plastic stubs used everywhere else, and kind of freaked me out with the different sound when it finally did start to give way.
The plastic pieces the screws go into were fighting me; so I grabbed some wire-cutters and snipped the two sides apart, and then squeezed them together. After that, it pried out fairly easily. I just had to deal with the melted gunk holding it in at that point
The most time-consuming part was scrapping and then cleaning (with acetone and a paper towel) all the melted gunk left behind when I removed the old switch. I got as much as I could before the solvent so that I wasn't just smearing it around.
...and yeah, I have a few light scratches where I wasn't careful keeping things off the paint. If you want to be anal about it, tape up something - paper towel or cloth, maybe - to protect the surface of the door while you work.
I went slow with pulling the plastic seal, and ran a knife across the stretched adhesive so that there was some on both sides when it came time to seal it back up. Worked like a charm.
Yeah, the nub behind the Toyota emblem was the trickiest part. It's not the same kind of connector as the plastic stubs used everywhere else, and kind of freaked me out with the different sound when it finally did start to give way.
The plastic pieces the screws go into were fighting me; so I grabbed some wire-cutters and snipped the two sides apart, and then squeezed them together. After that, it pried out fairly easily. I just had to deal with the melted gunk holding it in at that point
The most time-consuming part was scrapping and then cleaning (with acetone and a paper towel) all the melted gunk left behind when I removed the old switch. I got as much as I could before the solvent so that I wasn't just smearing it around.
...and yeah, I have a few light scratches where I wasn't careful keeping things off the paint. If you want to be anal about it, tape up something - paper towel or cloth, maybe - to protect the surface of the door while you work.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I doubt that the bulbs are melting the rear hatch opener pad. They're located in housings for the license plate bulbs and are allowed enough space to not heat much else up.
The rubber just breaks down from environmental exposure.
DT04R
New member
Just replace mine 
It's been a melted mess for months (and months ...), got the part from Amazon for ~$29, took about 30-40 minutes since I spent some decent time cleaning up the goo from the old melted switch.
Used the guide from 120, it's pretty simple, but knowing the location of the left nut (behind the plug) was super handy.
It's been a melted mess for months (and months ...), got the part from Amazon for ~$29, took about 30-40 minutes since I spent some decent time cleaning up the goo from the old melted switch.Used the guide from 120, it's pretty simple, but knowing the location of the left nut (behind the plug) was super handy.
Bundutrailer
Member
My 09 with 50k Miles has same issue, valuable thread.
Same problem here was like that when I bought it at 110,000 miles last year an '07.
Found this switch assy. on Amazon but I read above a $29 fix/part from amazon.
2003-2013 Toyota 4Runner - Genuine Liftgate Release Switch - 84840-35010
and this Switch Assembly - Toyota (84840-35010) from Toyotaparts.
Have to try Ebay.
Found this switch assy. on Amazon but I read above a $29 fix/part from amazon.
2003-2013 Toyota 4Runner - Genuine Liftgate Release Switch - 84840-35010
and this Switch Assembly - Toyota (84840-35010) from Toyotaparts.
Have to try Ebay.
Is there an updated link to this or do I need to be a 120 member to see it? The link doesn’t work.
Iguanahump
New member
Replace Melted Cover on Rear Hatch Switch
2008 Toyota 4Runner. Like many others, the rubber cover on the rear hatch switch melted and got very sticky. The fix was very easy and did not require removing ANY trim pieces. This is for replacing the cover and not the whole switch. I bought the rubber cover on Amazon for $14.95. Get the one the has the 45 degree Philips screw driver included, you'll need it to get the two screws out that hold the switch in place. Carefully remove the two screws that hold the rubber cover in place. It requires a little patience as you can only get about a quarter turn each time. Once the screws are removed, you need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and release the plastic clips that are still holding the switch in. They are very accessible and you just need to squeeze them and then you can gently pull the switch out. Mine had a lot of the melted rubber on it and I had to pry on the rubber to release the switch. Clean off all the old rubber with a knife, flat head screw driver or similar. Most likely you will need a micro screw driver to get into the grooves to remove the goo. The new cover can be pulled over the switch once both sides are cleaned as best you can. It fits over the sides and ends of the switch and secures in place. Fit switch back in and secure the screws. Took about 45 minutes.
2008 Toyota 4Runner. Like many others, the rubber cover on the rear hatch switch melted and got very sticky. The fix was very easy and did not require removing ANY trim pieces. This is for replacing the cover and not the whole switch. I bought the rubber cover on Amazon for $14.95. Get the one the has the 45 degree Philips screw driver included, you'll need it to get the two screws out that hold the switch in place. Carefully remove the two screws that hold the rubber cover in place. It requires a little patience as you can only get about a quarter turn each time. Once the screws are removed, you need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and release the plastic clips that are still holding the switch in. They are very accessible and you just need to squeeze them and then you can gently pull the switch out. Mine had a lot of the melted rubber on it and I had to pry on the rubber to release the switch. Clean off all the old rubber with a knife, flat head screw driver or similar. Most likely you will need a micro screw driver to get into the grooves to remove the goo. The new cover can be pulled over the switch once both sides are cleaned as best you can. It fits over the sides and ends of the switch and secures in place. Fit switch back in and secure the screws. Took about 45 minutes.
Thanks for the heads up. Just ordered this replacement for the back hatch door handle switch cover and it comes with the L wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DVJ6ZD/
Same thing happened to me. California heat has turned my rear hatch into gum like substance or goo for a few years now. Gotten so bad now I can't open the rear hatch. Has the consistency of silly putty and is complete mess.
DeathMetalTony
New member
Hello,
Those tend to melt with the heat, I seen this happen on 4Runners, Siennas, Scion TC and Prius that have that style rear door release button.
2003-2018 4Runner
P/N: 84840-35010
$86.49 W/TAX
If your a local here in Los Angeles come and see me.
Disc $53.80 W/TAX
This is a Special Order Part . . .
Those tend to melt with the heat, I seen this happen on 4Runners, Siennas, Scion TC and Prius that have that style rear door release button.
2003-2018 4Runner
P/N: 84840-35010
$86.49 W/TAX
If your a local here in Los Angeles come and see me.
Disc $53.80 W/TAX
This is a Special Order Part . . .
I know I should make a new post about this and I might do so.
I even have pictures!
But I need to get this warning out. Sometimes I don't have enough energy to read all the posts, let alone post pics and info anymore.
Look at the rubber boots that connect the body to the doors.
I've had both rear passenger door to body boots "melt"; better word is dissolve. I noticed it after I bought the vehicle. One feel apart in my hands, the other was on the way out. I reason that the worst boot had the most sun.
This problem is associated with the liftgate rubber problem.
Same problem.
My vehicle was raised in Tucson.
It is the heat and humidity that causes this problem.
And a cheap rubber product.
Look at your door to body to door boots or whatever they are called.
I even have pictures!
But I need to get this warning out. Sometimes I don't have enough energy to read all the posts, let alone post pics and info anymore.
Look at the rubber boots that connect the body to the doors.
I've had both rear passenger door to body boots "melt"; better word is dissolve. I noticed it after I bought the vehicle. One feel apart in my hands, the other was on the way out. I reason that the worst boot had the most sun.
This problem is associated with the liftgate rubber problem.
Same problem.
My vehicle was raised in Tucson.
It is the heat and humidity that causes this problem.
And a cheap rubber product.
Look at your door to body to door boots or whatever they are called.
Hello,
Those tend to melt with the heat, I seen this happen on 4Runners, Siennas, Scion TC and Prius that have that style rear door release button.
2003-2018 4Runner
P/N: 84840-35010
$86.49 W/TAX
If your a local here in Los Angeles come and see me.
Disc $53.80 W/TAX
This is a Special Order Part . . .
Is this a plug and play replacement for the rubber pad? Mine is melted in the summer and frozen in the winter and this button seems it would solve the problem!
