Help!!! So I went to use my rear hatch yesterday. It opened and closed normal got home from the store and would not open. Also the rear window wiper and defroster will not work and the window will not open either. I checked the fuse it is good. Then I pulled the rear panel and got lost in the maze of wires. Has anyone gone through this before? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Rear hatch problems
- Thread starter Yota814
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
TowMeOut
New member
Hmmm.....sounds like everything going to the hatch is dead. Maybe the ECU in the rear hatch has died. This thread might help. I'm kicking around pulling mine apart just to clean/lubricate it and hopefully prevent this in the future.
Looks like the interior panel has to come off which won't be fun without the hatch open but is doable.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2702585-post82.html
Looks like the interior panel has to come off which won't be fun without the hatch open but is doable.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2702585-post82.html
lightfreak
New member
Disconnect your battery for a minute and see if that helps.
A dying battery or low voltage situation will cause this problem.
I've unplugged the connector inside the tailgate before, while working on something esle. And the tailgate lock wouldn't open unless the battery was disconnected then re-connected.
Curious what fuse did you pull because I don't think here's one for the tailgate lock. There's a universal fuse "dr/lock" but if that's blown none of the locks will work.
A dying battery or low voltage situation will cause this problem.
I've unplugged the connector inside the tailgate before, while working on something esle. And the tailgate lock wouldn't open unless the battery was disconnected then re-connected.
Curious what fuse did you pull because I don't think here's one for the tailgate lock. There's a universal fuse "dr/lock" but if that's blown none of the locks will work.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Matt have you tried both the key and the rear window switch to lower the window?
You may want to buy this one before someone else gets it and save some bucks!
Post #1824 by "Footer"
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/192626-4th-gen-specific-sale-thread-122.html#post2749452
Here's the link to his eBay auction.
Toyota 4Runner Rear Hatch ECU module | eBay
You may want to buy this one before someone else gets it and save some bucks!
Post #1824 by "Footer"
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/192626-4th-gen-specific-sale-thread-122.html#post2749452
Here's the link to his eBay auction.
Toyota 4Runner Rear Hatch ECU module | eBay
Last edited:
Bossman
Senior Member
Some threads describing various problems with the rear hatch:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/43212-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87913-help-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/63786-tailgate-motor-problem.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/43212-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87913-help-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/63786-tailgate-motor-problem.html
Well I decided to just go for it, I cannot figure out what else would be wrong.Thanks for finding me one!
Yep that was what I tried first. Lock switch is off, pulled the rear panel window appears to be all the way up.
TuckinFypo
New member
Mine broke yesterday too!
My issue seems to be slightly different though. I have reset the ECU, pulled the power from the while tuck and let it set but no change. When I press the switch on the back of the hatch, you can hear the switch click but that's it. No switching sound from the ECU, no motor, nothing. I can release the hatch manfully. When I close the hatch, it will close on it's own, the motor kicks on and pulls the hatch closed. If I press the switch on the hatch right after it closes (before the hatch goes into "locked" position) the the motor will kick back on and release the hatch. So mechanically everything appears to be working. If I close the hatch and wait a few seconds, the hatch locks and it will not open again. It almost seems like the hatch can't tell the truck is unlocked. Does anyone know if there is a lock sensor on the hatch or is that controlled by the ECU?
Here is a link to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Fc-quHllk0dGpCN2wtRDNHdkE/view?usp=sharing
My issue seems to be slightly different though. I have reset the ECU, pulled the power from the while tuck and let it set but no change. When I press the switch on the back of the hatch, you can hear the switch click but that's it. No switching sound from the ECU, no motor, nothing. I can release the hatch manfully. When I close the hatch, it will close on it's own, the motor kicks on and pulls the hatch closed. If I press the switch on the hatch right after it closes (before the hatch goes into "locked" position) the the motor will kick back on and release the hatch. So mechanically everything appears to be working. If I close the hatch and wait a few seconds, the hatch locks and it will not open again. It almost seems like the hatch can't tell the truck is unlocked. Does anyone know if there is a lock sensor on the hatch or is that controlled by the ECU?
Here is a link to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Fc-quHllk0dGpCN2wtRDNHdkE/view?usp=sharing
greatape
Senior Member
Should merge these...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87913-help-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87913-help-rear-hatch-wont-open.html
Update from the dealership
So I caved in and took it to the garage to see what they could come up with. They said its "firing a code that the rear window is down and that is why there is no function in the rear hatch." They said I need a new window motor, (part number 85720-35150) it cost $434.66! Needless to say thats not happening Conicelli Toyota Parts has it $140 cheaper and thats the first place I looked.
So here are my questions.
1.) The window is up the full way, why would the computer not recognize that?
2.) Even if the computer thinks the window is down, why would the rear hatch not open? The motor makes no sound and will not budge.
3.) Anybody run into any of these issues before?
So I caved in and took it to the garage to see what they could come up with. They said its "firing a code that the rear window is down and that is why there is no function in the rear hatch." They said I need a new window motor, (part number 85720-35150) it cost $434.66! Needless to say thats not happening Conicelli Toyota Parts has it $140 cheaper and thats the first place I looked.
So here are my questions.
1.) The window is up the full way, why would the computer not recognize that?
2.) Even if the computer thinks the window is down, why would the rear hatch not open? The motor makes no sound and will not budge.
3.) Anybody run into any of these issues before?
JROZEK
New member
Probably found the reason of rear hatch lock issue
Everything described on that forum most of the time helps.
In my case it stopped working suddenly, I thought its going to be lock, so removed measured motor - was ok, I`ve even connected it to 12VDC and it was moving, there are two microswitches, one rotary microswitch hidden behind white round cover close to main mechanizm, and simple metal/plastic momentary switch , checked by multimeter, mounted back in rear door, reset to default everything , (dont forget to use key to open rear door - it initialize rear lock ) and it worked only once ! it works properly only when I tried to open door manually from inside and then it closes ok. But when I reset everyting to default, used outside handle, will work only once.
Here is a reason , I`ve spend few hours and noticed finally that in that door lock (inside), there is that bigger handle (small one is to manually open the door) which is just moving when you open/close door, That "handle" was a bit loose, after 11 years it can be loose ! but its connected mechanically with that little Microswitch - which has a little piece of metal that touches that big swinging piece metal which is closing/opening door . I figured out that if you bend that piece of metal (that touches to that microswitch), it works ok! As long as I holded that bigger "handle" bended, it just simply worked ! It better react with that mechanizm and its not sending some - lets say - hazardous or faulty data to ECU - which probably hangs ECU, when its get faulty data. So the Fix was to bend that small microswitch bar to better touch that big swinging bar - that fixed problem - probably temporary - its weak spot of that lock, probably I`ll replace it (even if it looks like inconvertible) , will not be easy but cheap ! definitely something that you can DIY and not spend 200$ ! I hope thats helpfull for those who can not figure out whats going on and are more and more frustrating !!!
Its not easy to find out because multimeter will not show you that ...
Best regards ! :eyebrows:
Everything described on that forum most of the time helps.
In my case it stopped working suddenly, I thought its going to be lock, so removed measured motor - was ok, I`ve even connected it to 12VDC and it was moving, there are two microswitches, one rotary microswitch hidden behind white round cover close to main mechanizm, and simple metal/plastic momentary switch , checked by multimeter, mounted back in rear door, reset to default everything , (dont forget to use key to open rear door - it initialize rear lock ) and it worked only once ! it works properly only when I tried to open door manually from inside and then it closes ok. But when I reset everyting to default, used outside handle, will work only once.
Here is a reason , I`ve spend few hours and noticed finally that in that door lock (inside), there is that bigger handle (small one is to manually open the door) which is just moving when you open/close door, That "handle" was a bit loose, after 11 years it can be loose ! but its connected mechanically with that little Microswitch - which has a little piece of metal that touches that big swinging piece metal which is closing/opening door . I figured out that if you bend that piece of metal (that touches to that microswitch), it works ok! As long as I holded that bigger "handle" bended, it just simply worked ! It better react with that mechanizm and its not sending some - lets say - hazardous or faulty data to ECU - which probably hangs ECU, when its get faulty data. So the Fix was to bend that small microswitch bar to better touch that big swinging bar - that fixed problem - probably temporary - its weak spot of that lock, probably I`ll replace it (even if it looks like inconvertible) , will not be easy but cheap ! definitely something that you can DIY and not spend 200$ ! I hope thats helpfull for those who can not figure out whats going on and are more and more frustrating !!!
Its not easy to find out because multimeter will not show you that ...
Best regards ! :eyebrows:
bwv7131
New member
1998 4runner
My issue is my latch handle stays compressed and will not open. I've tried spraying a generous amount of WD-40 on the latch handle hoping it would loosen up rust/dirt built up but no such luck.
I should also back up and mention i have issues with my power locks where the power locks do not work when using the inside button (no sounds at all when using the power lock button) and when using my key to lock/unlock all locks from the outside, it will only unlock the one door.
Any ideas where I go from here and/or how to get the tailgate open?
My issue is my latch handle stays compressed and will not open. I've tried spraying a generous amount of WD-40 on the latch handle hoping it would loosen up rust/dirt built up but no such luck.
I should also back up and mention i have issues with my power locks where the power locks do not work when using the inside button (no sounds at all when using the power lock button) and when using my key to lock/unlock all locks from the outside, it will only unlock the one door.
Any ideas where I go from here and/or how to get the tailgate open?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Sounds like the hatch switch is bad and needs to be replaced, on the other doors sounds like the locking actuators have gone bad and needs to be replaced as well, but it could also be a fuse for the door locks as well so check that first.
Does the remote key fob unlock any of the doors?
Does the remote key fob unlock any of the doors?
Last edited:
bwv7131
New member
I should've mentioned; the T4R did not come with any key fobs. The vehicle was super dirty on the inside so I can only imagine the locking mechanism inside the hatch is coated with dust/dirt.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You mentioned the hatch switch being stuck, which has nothing to do with the locking mechanism other than sending voltage to it, inside the hatch where the locking mechanism is maybe far cleaner than the interior being that it most likely was never opened and exposed to the uncleaniness of the previous owner/s, so I'm guessing it's not an issue unless it has rusted.
wadle5
New member
Being as the individual is in Wisconsin, I could definitely see the rust being the issue. Ask me how I know? Originally a Minnesota truck and now in Iowa, but not a lot of rust just surface rust on the frame, but the hatch quit working one day. The motor would make noise but nothing would actually happen. Replaced the part in under 30 mins and now I have an operable hatch. So yeah although it is “not exposed” think of driving down the road in the rain/snow and the water gets caught and goes under the tailgate and into the lock mechanism. The entire mechanism was completely rusted from the inside. Anyways just my .02 I would just replace the entire mechanism.
wadle5
New member
Sorry should have tagged you, but see post above and let me know if you have any questions since I had the exact same issue and just fixed it this past weekend.
Supersonic
New member
A problem I encountered is water getting into the rear door, not sure if the window was opened slightly or if it has a seal issue. Finally I tried my fingers under the bottom to pull of the door as I pulled the handle too and it opened. It seemed to be making some noise when I pulled the handle but wouldn't open without the extra pull, then water dripped from the latch.
I found 2 drain plugs and pulled them to find sand, wet red New Mexico sand plugging the holes. I cleaned some out with a screwdriver, but it really didn't drain and until I took a drive then opened the hatch and some wet sand had come out the holes, it's getting late, so other than having soaked the latch with liquid wrench, I left the drain plugs out and will look into it more tomorrow. Rear hatch does seem to be functioning normally now.
Going to add this link from the other thread for the handle rubber replacement, seems it might be a good idea to replace it before it gets bad, the current first review has some install tips;
Trunk Switch Button Replacement Cover
The original cover is prone to melting in hot climates and harden in cold.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4NAGP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found 2 drain plugs and pulled them to find sand, wet red New Mexico sand plugging the holes. I cleaned some out with a screwdriver, but it really didn't drain and until I took a drive then opened the hatch and some wet sand had come out the holes, it's getting late, so other than having soaked the latch with liquid wrench, I left the drain plugs out and will look into it more tomorrow. Rear hatch does seem to be functioning normally now.
Going to add this link from the other thread for the handle rubber replacement, seems it might be a good idea to replace it before it gets bad, the current first review has some install tips;
Trunk Switch Button Replacement Cover
The original cover is prone to melting in hot climates and harden in cold.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4NAGP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
