Rear Hatch won't open properly and TPM reset...

R

Ralph III

New member
Hello All,
I have two issues at the moment with my 2004 4-Runner "Sport Edition" and would appreciate some input.



1) The rear hatch will not open properly. The latch motor doesn't make any sound and locking/unlocking the doors or lowering/raising the rear window makes no difference.

The rear hatch will open if I remove one of the battery terminals and then reconnect. At that point I can open the hatch as normal but it only works once or twice. After which I must again disconnect the battery to open.

I've cleaned the entire door jamb and latch area. I also didn't notice any blown fuses but that wouldn't seem to be an issue given I can open the hatch after removing the battery terminal.



2) How do I reset the tire pressure monitor?


God Bless,
Ralph
 
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Ok, so no apparent TPM reset on the 4-runner.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyone have any idea on the back hatch issue? As noted, I can remove one battery terminal and the rear hatch will then open but it will become disabled shortly after closing it again.

Note: After shutting the rear hatch if I immediately open it again I can continually open and close it. However, if I fail to open the rear hatch within a few seconds, at any point, it will then make a "secondary" locking sound at which point the rear hatch is disabled again.

In clarifying the secondary locking sound? When you first close the hatch it pulls in and locks as normal; a secondary locking sound then occurs a few seconds later.

God Bless,
Ralph
 
Last edited:
For the lift gate latch; had the same thing happen to one of my 4runners and it was caused by a shorted limit switch in the latch assembly. Limit switch is riveted on so I am going to change out the latch assembly (69110-35090) and then fix the old one as a spare for the other 4runner if needed. Micro/limit switch part number is ABJ39181 but have been unable to find it anywhere. To reset the Back door ECU (ECUB) you can pull a 10Amp fused labled as ECU B in the fuse box located in the engine bay. Much easier than pulling the battery and no need to reset radio, etc.
 
Make sure you check the air pressure in your spare tire if you have one. That will set off the light. If the tires are all inflated properly the light should go out by itself. At least it did on mine. I would troubleshoot the hatch further, before I replaced any parts. It seems to work under certain conditions. Is your battery in good shape? Does everything else work properly?
 
Agree check the latch first as it is easy to take out and check. Pins 1 and 2 are the drive motor. Pins 3-4 are the limit switch that is green and has a single set of contacts. That was what was shorted on mine. After cycling power it would open once then after closing would make a second motor sound and not open again until power cycle. THe other switch is a rotory switch with two contacts. Uses pin 3 or 4 as the common.
 
Blacklabs said:
Agree check the latch first as it is easy to take out and check. Pins 1 and 2 are the drive motor. Pins 3-4 are the limit switch that is green and has a single set of contacts. That was what was shorted on mine. After cycling power it would open once then after closing would make a second motor sound and not open again until power cycle. THe other switch is a rotory switch with two contacts. Uses pin 3 or 4 as the common.
Click to expand...

This is my exact issue.

I can actually open and close it continuously after a power cycle as long as I do so immediately. If I let it set for a few seconds then the second motor kicks in and then it's disabled again.

I will be checking the limit switch tomorrow. Do you know the proper name, part number or description for this part?

Thanks,
Ralph
 
Last edited:
I have not been able to find the limit switch by itself but the part number is: ABJ39181. Some have had luck using WD-40 on the limit switch to clean and lube to keep it from sticking closed. If that does not work then it is the whole latch assembly 69110-35090. Remember you can pull then reinsert the ECU-B fuse in the fuse block under the hood to reset the back door ECU and leave the battery alone.
 
Blacklabs said:
I have not been able to find the limit switch by itself but the part number is: ABJ39181. Some have had luck using WD-40 on the limit switch to clean and lube to keep it from sticking closed. If that does not work then it is the whole latch assembly 69110-35090. Remember you can pull then reinsert the ECU-B fuse in the fuse block under the hood to reset the back door ECU and leave the battery alone.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Blacklabs! I forgot you had listed the parts number already and apologize for making you re-post.

I'm going to mess around with the truck today and see what happens.

God Bless,
Ralph
 
*****Working Again*****

Ok, so I removed the fuse, re-inserted and then opened the hatch door.

*I then removed the plastic latch cover and sprayed W-40 into the latch area from every conceivable angle.

*I then opened and shut the hatch door a dozen times or more in hopes of clearly out any crud, etc.


I'm happy to say my rear door hatch is now working properly again. It just makes the initial and normal closing motor sound. There is no longer the secondary motor/disabling latch sound.

Thanks for all the help and God Bless!

Ralph
 
Ralph III said:
*****Working Again*****



Ok, so I removed the fuse, re-inserted and then opened the hatch door.



*I then removed the plastic latch cover and sprayed W-40 into the latch area from every conceivable angle.



*I then opened and shut the hatch door a dozen times or more in hopes of clearly out any crud, etc.





I'm happy to say my rear door hatch is now working properly again. It just makes the initial and normal closing motor sound. There is no longer the secondary motor/disabling latch sound.



Thanks for all the help and God Bless!



Ralph
Click to expand...


I tried this with no such luck on the lock [emoji53]...however my rear window tracks a lot smoother! [emoji1417]
 
Fuse for the back door ECU is located in the fuse block that is under the hood. It is a 10 Amp fuse labled ECU-B. (ECU back door).
 
Yes, remove the small plasitic cover in the back door, cut through the film plastic moisture barrier or lift it out of the way, then remove the cover off the side of the latch assembly (small white cover on the left side, pull up and out to the left). You will find two levers under the cover. Pull up on the one to the rear of the vehicle.
 
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