Rear Heater Lines

[BrianK14]

Replaced mine awhile back with a length of heater hose, after cutting out the rusted section. Worse part was snaking the metal lines out. Easier to cut them first, then remove.

 

[nissanh]

Rear heater is truly useless. It takes a while to get heat from the rear heater (about 10-15 minutes of driving). Also narrow lines carry less coolant and blower does not see enough coolant to do the heat exchange.

 

[vector1701]

I have the same issue you may try to do a quick fix I just can’t get the coolant Rubber hoses off the metal coolant lines. After 20 years after removing the clamp the hoses are just stuck on those metal lines. Any idea how to remove the rubber hoses so I can perform the fix?

Thank you very much and I appreciate the ingenuity.

Patrick in RI

 

[vector1701]

I just did this bypass on my 98 SR5... discovered a small leak while I was installing a Walker Quietflow SS Cat back complete exhaust kit from Rock Auto on Saturday... this is such a great forum! Thanks

How did you remove the rubber hoses off the metal lines? My rubber hoses seem to be really stuck on those metal lines. Thank you

 

[T4R2014]

How did you remove the rubber hoses off the metal lines? My rubber hoses seem to be really stuck on those metal lines. Thank you

I've learned to expect to replace the whole line. Much easier to cut the rubber line.

 

[MaineRunna]

The original lines were steel, but I think the Toyota replacement lines are stainless. My 98 has stainless lines on it, but all the other ones I've seen are just plain old rusty steel. If you want to fabricate your own lines the poly coated steel 3/8 brake lines would be fine as long as you're not running straight water in your engine, nickel copper tube would be better though. If the Toyota part is only $80 I think I would opt for that.

 

[Mark_BC]

You get a little orange pick from harbor freight and work it under to break it free.

Mid 2000 toyota changed from steel to aluminum lines.

Sad, this along with pink milkshake, LBJ failure and rotting frames will really start to take a lot of runners off the road at this age.

 

[slayman]

210,000 miles and the lines rusted through. Where's the quality? Just kidding. Happened to me this week and for now I've plugged the lines. Is there any reason to do the bypass instead of just plugging the hoses where they connect to the steel lines under the hood? I seems like a bypass might create a loop of flow that wouldn't normally be there. I don't intend to reconnect the rear heater. I'll remove the old lines and cap the ends at the heater.

 

[brillo_76]

210,000 miles and the lines rusted through. Where's the quality? Just kidding. Happened to me this week and for now I've plugged the lines. Is there any reason to do the bypass instead of just plugging the hoses where they connect to the steel lines under the hood? I seems like a bypass might create a loop of flow that wouldn't normally be there. I don't intend to reconnect the rear heater. I'll remove the old lines and cap the ends at the heater.

If you have no intention of ever hooking up the rear heater again.. Looping will be fine.. I ran several years that way on one of my rig without any issues. I however, just replaced my lines with the Toyota Part No.: 87248-35061 the Stainless steel version of the steel originals anything mid 2000 up to 2002 are stainless lines. My Kiddo likes the rear heater.

 

[Kanoe]

210,000 miles and the lines rusted through. Where's the quality? Just kidding. Happened to me this week and for now I've plugged the lines. Is there any reason to do the bypass instead of just plugging the hoses where they connect to the steel lines under the hood? I seems like a bypass might create a loop of flow that wouldn't normally be there. I don't intend to reconnect the rear heater. I'll remove the old lines and cap the ends at the heater.

I feel plugging is best. The loop creates a bypass in parallel with your heater core. (although others claim no loss of heater performance.). Mine have been capped off since I bought her 5-6 years ago with no detrimental effects.

I ripped out the heater core/fan blower assembly under the passenger seat too. Sheds a few pounds of weight and gives the missus more room to store books.

 

[samsquantch]

My 96 is very clean rust-wise, but I noticed paint flaking and hidden rust on these lines where the small clamps hold the 2 lines together. I got the updated stainless set for maybe 120 from the local dealer. Was doing all the other lines anyway and it's nice to have the peace of mind that all hoses/lines are new with OEM coolant. Heat blows real hot too. Install was a little awkward, but worth it to me.

 

[brillo_76]

If you have no intention of ever hooking up the rear heater again.. Looping will be fine.. I ran several years that way on one of my rig without any issues. I however, just replaced my lines with the Toyota Part No.: 87248-35061 the Stainless steel version of the steel originals anything mid 2000 up to 2002 are stainless lines. My Kiddo likes the rear heater.

When I looped I took the rubber line from the rear heater and kinked it back to the return connection.. Its just long enough and pinches shut solving the loop so plugs were not needed.
View attachment 343581View attachment 343582

 

[slayman]

Thanks for the input. Sitting at the shop now to have them check for leaks in the AC system since they put the die in. Since the lines are now capped, I'll just leave them like that unless I think there is an issue.

Love this forum!

 

[yotadawgjr]

Whats the easiest way to install a loop temporarily? I'm getting the SS lines installed but not for a week or so.

Also, what about wrapping the hard lines in some kind of high temp tape? The lines will be replaced so I don't care how ghetto it is as long as it holds till the real repair. They are pretty rusty/flaky near the front cat but are not leaking yet.

Any chance these have already contaminated my coolant?

Side note: thinking of modding the rear ducting into an octopus of tubes for gear drying (boots, hats, gloves, etc)

 

[brillo_76]

Whats the easiest way to install a loop temporarily? I'm getting the SS lines installed but not for a week or so.

Also, what about wrapping the hard lines in some kind of high temp tape? The lines will be replaced so I don't care how ghetto it is as long as it holds till the real repair. They are pretty rusty/flaky near the front cat but are not leaking yet.

Any chance these have already contaminated my coolant?

Side note: thinking of modding the rear ducting into an octopus of tubes for gear drying (boots, hats, gloves, etc)

Like this. You take the one line and loop back and hook it to the other. Like the pictures show. If you need more photos let me know.

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[rockdaddy80]

I'm going to do this bypass soon, these lines are about toast on my '97. I want to make absolute sure I'm doing the bypass correctly, could somebody check me on my attached picture? The process is loop A to B, then loop C to D, correct? I might just cut the lines under the rear heater where they exit the floor board and "loop A to B" there...

 

[brillo_76]

Take the other side of C to put it on D. Done. Look at my picture. You can see that what I did and it's just long enough.

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[rockdaddy80]

Take the other side of C to put it on D. Done. Look at my picture. You can see that what I did and it's just long enough.

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Thanks! I guess looping A to B like I've seen in other pics is just a way of keeping crap from getting into open/unused lines.

 

[brillo_76]

Thanks! I guess looping A to B like I've seen in other pics is just a way of keeping crap from getting into open/unused lines.

Sure plug the open lines off. But the later years are stainless steel and can still be bought. I replaced the lines in mine with newer stainless steel in 2 rigs.

You can loop if you want too. Not required though.



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[rockdaddy80]

Sure plug the open lines off. But the later years are stainless steel and can still be bought. I replaced the lines in mine with newer stainless steel in 2 rigs.

You can loop if you want too. Not required though.



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Well this was one of the easiest and quickest fixes ever for me. One question- on the bypass loop that hose is just long enough to make it like you said, but if you look in the pic I took it is kinked pretty bad and probably not allowing full flow, maybe none at all. Does this matter? Seems to me it wouldn't since it's just closing off a loop I no longer need anyway.