Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

Having done both Energy and Whiteline LCA bushings, I'd disagree about ease of install. If the vehicle has ANY corrosion, removing the LCA sleeves is a PITA. In these cases, it's simpler to just burn out the OEM rubber, and slide the Energy bushings in.

It depends on the tools at your disposal. Even though I don't live in a rust belt where they salt the roads, I'm pretty sure with some heat, a press sleeve kit, and my Harbor Freight 20 ton press, I'd get the bushings out no problem.

None of the bushings require much force to get out provided you use the appropriate amount of heat. Rear axle bearings require a decent amount of force to press the axle out. And, front wheel bearings require an enormous amount of force. Bushings are a piece of cake. I've now replaced every suspension bushings there is on our rigs.
 
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I think his response was in regards to the rear control arms

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Nope, it was for all control arm bushings except the front UCAs. I've used Whiteline for my Front LCAs, and both upper and lower rear control arms.
 
Feel a little bad asking here, but my search found more bickering than answers, which is odd for this forum...

Is there a good thread discussing desirable front and rear sway bar bushing options?
 
Feel a little bad asking here, but my search found more bickering than answers, which is odd for this forum...

Is there a good thread discussing desirable front and rear sway bar bushing options?

It's pretty much OEM and then Whiteline or Energy Suspension for aftermarket poly bushings. If you do a search there are other options as well but Whiteline and Energy Suspension seem to be the ones people have used most on this forum.

Myself and many people I know have used Whiteline with good success. Others like Energy Suspension.

I realize I didn't answer your question about available threads on this subject, but even if you did find a good thread, I bet the people would be talking about using the options I already stated above. Happy Hunting.
 
It's pretty much OEM and then Whiteline or Energy Suspension for aftermarket poly bushings. If you do a search there are other options as well but Whiteline and Energy Suspension seem to be the ones people have used most on this forum.

Myself and many people I know have used Whiteline with good success. Others like Energy Suspension.

I realize I didn't answer your question about available threads on this subject, but even if you did find a good thread, I bet the people would be talking about using the options I already stated above. Happy Hunting.

Tim, thank you.

There were some fitment issues, apparently, but it seems that either of those is now a solid option for us. I like how the Whitelines are greaseless (PTFE-lined). Thanks much.
 
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....I'd stick with the OEM control arms and use the Whiteline poly bushings as a replacement for the OEM bushings.

I know people have went with aftermarket front Lower Control Arms with catastrophic results. Maybe somebody on this forum will chime in if the Mevotech arms Rock Auto sells are a smart purchase.

This brings to mind what happened to 4RipCord's previous 3rd gen. The rear axle tore itself off and if my memory serves correctly what is thought to have happened is at least one the aftermarket rear LCAs came apart while driving and everything went to sh3t. The damage was massive since the axle partly tore itself from the frame. Now I think in that case the bolt came loose or something. I don't thing the arm snapped.

So be sure to use lock tight and crank it down I down I guess.

I'm still on original rear LCA bushings and everything seems fine but maybe I'm just lucky.
 
It depends on the tools at your disposal. Even though I don't live in a rust belt where they salt the roads, I'm pretty sure with some heat, a press sleeve kit, and my Harbor Freight 20 ton press, I'd get the bushings out no problem.

None of the bushings require much force to get out provided you use the appropriate amount of heat. Rear axle bearings require a decent amount of force to press the axle out. And, front wheel bearings require an enormous amount of force. Bushings are a piece of cake. I've now replaced every suspension bushings there is on our rigs.
Oh for sure, I imagine a press would make quick work of this job. I was simply using the bottle jack method, and had zero luck getting the sleeves out without bending the arm. I ended up just cutting them out with reciprocating saw. Quite frankly, neither bushing is terribly difficult to install. Seized adjuster cams are a far bigger hurdle imo.
 
Feel a little bad asking here, but my search found more bickering than answers, which is odd for this forum...

Is there a good thread discussing desirable front and rear sway bar bushing options?

I was researching the same thing and saw this link that details comparison of the two brands mentioned here. seems the products are pretty comparable but for the fact that energy suspension is manufacture in California while whiteline is manufactured in Vietnam hence my preference for energy suspension.

https://www.suspension.com/blog/prothane-vs-whiteline-which-brand-should-you-to-choose/#grease
 
If I dont have a press and dont want to spend $100 for a shop to press the metal sleeve out of the LCAs what are my options?

The uppers look much easier

Also... would it be possible to do both lowers at the same time? If I had two rachet straps?
 
How do you order from Camelback? They reject my credit card for being out of country.

Or try calling your credit card company and tell them you are trying to order something online from outside the country. A lot of times the CC will be locked down and they can open it up for you.
 
How do you order from Camelback? They reject my credit card for being out of country.

I ordered my radiator and MC from them last year and had no problems with a Canadian CC, but used a US shipping address. Could be specific to the card company?
 
I'm a believer in you get what you pay for. Those arms are certainly very affordable at $33/each, and if they are a quality replacement, it would be a no-brainer to buy these. Question is, are they quality. I don't know because I have no experience with them.

The Whiteline poly bushings are $70, the same price you'd pay for those 2 complete arms from Rock Auto. But, like I mentioned above, are the arms built well with good steel? Are the bushings good or will they deteriorate quickly? For me, since I own a press, I'd stick with the OEM control arms and use the Whiteline poly bushings as a replacement for the OEM bushings.

I know people have went with aftermarket front Lower Control Arms with catastrophic results. Maybe somebody on this forum will chime in if the Mevotech arms Rock Auto sells are a smart purchase.

I have the "Febest" ones upper and lower off Amazon-- and about one year in, they're doing fine. If anyone needed a reference. They were $41 a piece with bushings already in em.
 
I was researching the same thing and saw this link that details comparison of the two brands mentioned here. seems the products are pretty comparable but for the fact that energy suspension is manufacture in California while whiteline is manufactured in Vietnam hence my preference for energy suspension.

https://www.suspension.com/blog/prothane-vs-whiteline-which-brand-should-you-to-choose/#grease

Well, California and Vietnam are both under Communist rule so I don't see the difference.

But hey, use whatever bushing floats your boat.
 
If I dont have a press and dont want to spend $100 for a shop to press the metal sleeve out of the LCAs what are my options?

The uppers look much easier

Also... would it be possible to do both lowers at the same time? If I had two rachet straps?

You can do both at the same time. I just did this on my 98. Do one complete side at a time (upper and lower). You don't need two ratchet straps.
 
Had 1 1/2 hours between meetings today and I decided to start this job, hoping to get at least one arm out. I just made it as it involved quite a bit of finagling to get the bolts straight out. The video was indeed quite helpful. Thanks Tim.

Emboldened, I assembled my 20-ton press from the move 4+ years ago and figured I'd try to remove a bushing after dinner...

No dice as of yet. Darn thing wouldn't budge. I didn't try heat though as I couldn't find my torch, so I imagine that makes a difference alright.
 
Had 1 1/2 hours between meetings today and I decided to start this job, hoping to get at least one arm out. I just made it as it involved quite a bit of finagling to get the bolts straight out. The video was indeed quite helpful. Thanks Tim.

Emboldened, I assembled my 20-ton press from the move 4+ years ago and figured I'd try to remove a bushing after dinner...

No dice as of yet. Darn thing wouldn't budge. I didn't try heat though as I couldn't find my torch, so I imagine that makes a difference alright.

Yes, Yes, heat is your friend.
 

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