Rear Shock Protection

phillyd2

Senior Member
During the last RC run, my and and I took a quick detour to hop over a rock hill while everybody else headed to the parking lot. Below is the result. He has a tummy tucked Jeep and cleared all without issue. Me? Not so much. Looks about the same on the other rear shock.

Opps3.jpg~original


Anyways, any thoughts or first hand experience with this or any other maybe better shock armor? The Rocktek looks interesting but I'm worried about the stresses on the bolts during a healthy beating.

rtc-sa1.jpg~original


Rocktek Shock Mount Armor ***NEW!*** RTC-SA

They also offer Front Link Armor. Any thoughts on this as well?

RTC-FLA2.JPG~original


RTC-FLA1.JPG~original


Rocktek Front Link Armor RTC-FLA
 
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During the last RC run, my and and I took a quick detour to hop over a rock hill while everybody else headed to the parking lot. Below is the result. He has a tummy tucked Jeep and cleared all without issue. Me? Not so much. Looks about the same on the other rear shock.

Anyways, any thoughts or first hand experience with this or any other maybe better shock armor? The Rocktek looks interesting but I'm worried about the stresses on the bolts during a healthy beating.

They also offer Front Link Armor. Any thoughts on this as well?

I don't have any LCA armor I have the Icon Shin Guards on my rear shock mounts and they have a few scrapes.4Runner Stainless Steel Lower Shock Shin Guard - ICON Vehicle Dynamics
His Jeep should have the same vulnerable areas just inside of the tires even if he was tummy tucked. Your supposed to pick your line to protect those areas the best you can as they are the lowest points but I know that's easier said then done sometimes!

Biggest rocks should be gone over with the tires or down the middle just on either side of the pumpkin.Better to hit or scrape on the bottom armor as that's what it's there for then damage a LCA,Lower ball joint mount,control arm or a rear shock mount. But I know sometimes there are just too dang many rocks!

Also bigger diameter tires would be the only thing that would give you more clearance in the rear and imagine if that area was about 1 1/4" higher right there as taller 34" tires give over stock size and you would have cleared.
 
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Actually it was more the difference in wheel base but thats not the question I'm asking.
No Biggy!
I thought I did answer the question too!:hunter:
ICON shin guards work and survey says.... the number one answer and that bigger diameter tires would have cleared it altogether!:nerd:
That and don't follow a Jeeps lines then !
Oh and you can't break that shock bolt as it's made of super hardened steel!
 
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I thought I did answer the question too!

You did. Apologies again. The hump was a narrow once over with no real lines to follow. Either you clear or you don't. And yes, my dream of keeping stock sized tires died a while ago but the depth of my laziness knows no limits.

I'll check out the Icons. :thanks:
 
Ive always assumed that the lower shock mounts were super vulnerable to exactly your scenario. Figured i would add some protection when i get around to the suspension upgrades cuz im not too worried about the OEM shocks.
You cant always avoid dragging the bottom of your rig, no matter what your running.
Nice shot, tag your it!
My 2 cents- Ive got he ICON guards on my list! they provide double duty with protection to the lower mount and they also protect the shock shaft itself from debris kicked up by the tires.
 
Gotta agree with what harper7 states about the Icon Shin Guards and driving to protect vulnerable components. I had shock boots on my rear shocks but I got worried about pitting on the shock shafts. I cut off the shock boots and installed the Icon Shin Guards. With these in place and picking your lines carefully through rocks, all will be golden.

i-VVFcQPC-L.jpg
 
we need a top-of-the-axle coilover conversion for the rear. I see this solving many problems.

That would seriously affect on-road handling. The point of moving the shocks as far outboard as possible is to minimize the leverage the axle has on the shock. This in turn allows for shock valving that provides the best road feel with minimal tendency axle hop.

To the OP, I say pick your lines better. Most of the protections I have seen for the shock bottoms would bend badly enough to interfere with operation, effectively making the problem worse, if hit.
 
hypothetically speaking, would relocating the lower mounts to somewhere like this be possible?
rear_end_flex.jpg
 

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Thank you.. I'll be here all week.. Tip your waitress :)

Okki

I was hoping people would engage in interesting conversation, not comedy :P

This would require relocating the upper mounts as well. Or have the lower shock mount placed near or on top of the axle. But doing so, will limit travel because you would need a shorter shock.

Relocating the upper mount - maybe unnecessary? As the upper mount is built into the frame, let's forget about that for now. We're speaking hypothetically, after all. A guess would lead me to believe it depends on angles. Shorter shock? I don't know.. Hypothetically speaking, let's say you had a 3" lift, and relocated the lower shock mount 3" higher. If you utilized the original length shock, same shock stroke, but with a higher lower mount, do you still obtain the lift? How does the valving need to change?

I'm asking these questions because I'm curious, and to me, the lower shock placement seems absolutely ridiculous, for a vehicle which is supposed to be very offroad capable. If I recall correctly, the shock mounts on my Tundra were on the axle. I realize that leaf and shock suspension may require different geometries or setupts than our 4rs' linked suspension, but is it really necessary? Obviously, it's the way it is because the almighty toyota engineers designed it that way, but I've never been a fan of saying that the way something's done is necessarily the best way of doing it. I would really appreciate some people - and I know there are a lot of really creative people on this board - to start offering ideas or suggestions, even if they seem unrealistic. Great things start with small ideas! C'mon guys.
 
No Biggy!
I thought I did answer the question too!:hunter:
ICON shin guards work and survey says.... the number one answer and that bigger diameter tires would have cleared it altogether!:nerd:
That and don't follow a Jeeps lines then !
Oh and you can't break that shock bolt as it's made of super hardened steel!

how about busting the rear shock mount off completely?

515bdc3c.jpg~original
 
I think that makes you the perfect candidate to start searching for alternate mounting locations.
To raise the shocks(weld new shock mounts on top of axle) and get the same amount of travel you would have to cut into the body and have the upper shock mounts inside the cab on 4Runners. In the video it shows what they did for the Baja 4Runner a couple of years back.At about 3:05 of the video shows the shock mounts on top of the rear axle.Alot of work,If mine gets ripped of I'll just have a new one welded on.

4Runner - From Rubicon to Baja: The Build - YouTube

And if your going to design your own 4 link suspension and relocating shocks ,here's a good place to start............

Four Link Suspension, Truck Suspension, Off Road Suspensions -Part 1- 4 Wheel & Off Road

Truck Suspensions, Four-Link Suspensions, and Suspension Installs - Part 2 - 4 Wheel & Off Road
 
yes i welded a new shock mount on after that happened. took out the brake lines with it too, driving back into town with one rear shock and only front brakes was interesting.
 

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